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kp, I got inspired by your post and got this skrivet from a local hardware store. Trimed the head to a rectangle shape (the shaft was just right), and installed...works perfectly.
I posted previously about a noisy gas cap solenoid. Took time to analyze the operation today and found that it was no operational. For all I know it's been that way since I picked the car up a year ago.lockig bolt is free to slide back and forth but doesn't move when cycling locking mechanism.now my problem is whether to have the solenoid replaced or leave it alone and accomplish what others are trying to do by obstructing that travel path. My inclination is to do both as I can't bank on the bolt closing at some point and locking me out.and it'd be nice to have a fully functional car
I was getting tired of hearing the solenoid click multiple times everytime I opened the door, so I pulled the wheel well liner and extracted the solenoid and lock mechanism this afternoon. I am not really worried about someone stealing gas, and to put something in the tank you need the plastic funnel or a way to hold both flapper valves in the fuel inlet neck open.
The solenoid is NOT spring loaded. The BCM just drives the pin to the locked or unlocked position when the doors are locked or unlocked. Any flex you feel is just the long black arm flexing. The locking pin should stay in the last position it was in.
Here is a photo of the solenoid.
You could just unplug the solenoid and leave it place, or remove the locking arm from the solenoid, but I went ahead and just removed the whole thing. The solenoid releases by just pressing a locking tab on the bottom, and you cannot really reach the electrical connector release without removing the solenoid anyway.
I used a spare connector cap to make sure it was sealed off from moisture.
Arrows show the white solenoid, and the black bar with the locking pin.
Easy answer but what's to stop the new solenoid from doing the same thing as the current "new" solenoid? Plug the hole, never worry about it again. The "correct" answer was to have a manual cable in the trunk to get the fuel door open if the solenoid failed.
^^^ I agree GM should have included a manual release, but the way they designed the lock mechanism, it does not readily accommodate a manual release.
They use a lock motor that seems to be gear driven that is not spring loaded, so a manual release connected to the lock pin arm would just be flexing the arm, and not really moving it to where the pin will stay in the unlocked position.
You would have to hold the pin in the unlocked position to open the door.
The motor could be moved to the unlocked position by connecting a manual release to the plunger of the actuator, but it takes a good amount of force to roll the motor/gear mechanism to that position.
A poor design all the way around.
Last edited by Steve Garrett; 04-23-2017 at 12:48 AM.
Yes. It would be very difficult to get to all the screws and work the liner out with the wheel still in place.
With the wheel out, no problems.
Note, two of the screws are hidden behind the plastic splash guard behind the wheel. There is one screw that goes through a tab on the bottom, and the upper part is held on by clips that snap into the edge of the fender.
Last edited by Steve Garrett; 04-23-2017 at 12:48 AM.
Just had this happen to me. Thankfully I had enough gas to drive it to the dealer, but they couldn't get it open in the time they had available. Told me to bring it back next week. Found this thread and used it. Worked like a charm. The only thing I did differently was to push the pin back into the hole and move it to the side a little bit so it will never come out again. Debating whether to have it actually fixed or not.
During my long career as an industrial maintenance technician I have learned to be proactive to avoid equipment breakdowns, the plastic scrivet that I just installed seem to be a very proactive countermeasure to avoid a possible future failure because anything that can fail will eventually.
Just had this happen to me. Thankfully I had enough gas to drive it to the dealer, but they couldn't get it open in the time they had available. Told me to bring it back next week. Found this thread and used it. Worked like a charm. The only thing I did differently was to push the pin back into the hole and move it to the side a little bit so it will never come out again. Debating whether to have it actually fixed or not.
If you are still under warranty, I'd get it fixed, in case you want to resell.
Otherwise, I'd do the scrivet trick that others have posted.
Guys, nightmare. Mine got locked yesterday. Took the car to the dealer and they couldn't even figure it out. So, they ordered a new fuel door actuator after hour and half trying to get It open. On my side, I tried everything. disconnect the battery, checked manual for a fuse on that fuel door and not even one. I did all the troubleshooting on YouTube, and on this forum. But, I didn't rip the fuel door. It is frustrating. I guess GM failed on not having installed a fuel door cable. Really? if this serious?
Has any change been made to the 2017 C7 to minimize the chance of this happening?
Have not looked yet but is there a fuse just for this solenoid? If so, you could just pull the fuse when in the unlocked position. Only issue is this might create a code, don't know?
Just an idea to quickly eliminate the locking problem.
Guys, nightmare. Mine got locked yesterday. Took the car to the dealer and they couldn't even figure it out. So, they ordered a new fuel door actuator after hour and half trying to get It open. On my side, I tried everything. disconnect the battery, checked manual for a fuse on that fuel door and not even one. I did all the troubleshooting on YouTube, and on this forum. But, I didn't rip the fuel door. It is frustrating. I guess GM failed on not having installed a fuel door cable. Really? if this serious?
Sorry to hear it failed on you. I'm not sure there is an easy fix, it is basically the lock bolt that breaks, you could have a cable, but if the lock is locked, you'd still have the same problem.
Are you really driving a C7 around in South Korea? That is awesome if you are, I salute you!
Someone can just rip the plastic door off if they want access. Since I use passive locking its kind of a pain at times as well.
I never seen this thread but I had my solenoid (or actuator if you prefer) on my '14 freeze twice when I left it overnight in an open parking garage in the winter. Luckily it didnt happen when I really needed gas and after a night in my warm garage it worked fine. I was just going to snip the locking pin off, unplug it when it was 'open' or dremel the door part so it didnt latch anymore. I sold the car and didnt think much more about it until I read this today.
After seeing the christmas tree/scrivet idea here I found a christmas tree fastener in my junk box, it was the right size that fit snug in the hole but large diameter head so I cut it into shape. Even beveled the edge so it closed nicely when the car is locked. It easily pops out if you push it from behind if you want the lock to function. Took about three minutes to make it, looks clean if anything
Pic of the fastener and part number, bought it at one of the chain parts stores.
Perfect! That's the kind of ingenuity which makes this forum a great place for information. Thank you!
Sorry to hear it failed on you. I'm not sure there is an easy fix, it is basically the lock bolt that breaks, you could have a cable, but if the lock is locked, you'd still have the same problem.
Are you really driving a C7 around in South Korea? That is awesome if you are, I salute you!
No I am not, lol. I am in Florida by Tampa. hahahaha
11-29-2015, 11:42 PM
