Anyone using Race Ramps with their C7?
10-28-2014, 09:20 AM
#21
race ramps work for my Z51
I use them to change oil and they work fine. I don't jack up the rear. I have carefully measured the oil that still drains out ( at least 1 hour) and it is just about 9 qts. I put 9 qts in and then check the oil level and it is just about the same as before. My best guess is that maybe .2 qts of old remain. I figure that is probably what a dealer would leave in the car since they don't let it drain all that long.
10-28-2014, 09:26 AM
#22
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It was not my intention to deceive anyone with the video. My intention was simply to demonstrate an *additional* way to make use of the wheel chocks, especially when you are working alone without a spotter. Placing the wheel chock is a matter of measuring the wheel base and then setting the front edge of the wheel chock approximately that distance from the front edge of the ramp. After you do this one time you can mark the pavement for future use.
The cradle top platform on the RLL-80-2 and RR-80-10-2 ramps helps to prevent the car from rolling backwards when the non-drive wheels are on the ramp and the opposite end is raised with a floor jack.
Even with the cradle top, it is a best practice to place wheel chocks behind the rear tires and/or behind the front tires on the ramps.
The cradle top platform on the RLL-80-2 and RR-80-10-2 ramps helps to prevent the car from rolling backwards when the non-drive wheels are on the ramp and the opposite end is raised with a floor jack.
Even with the cradle top, it is a best practice to place wheel chocks behind the rear tires and/or behind the front tires on the ramps.
The manner in which the wheel chock is used in the video is rather deceiving. First of all, how do you know where to place the wheel chock so as to be in the correct position to stop the rear tire when driving up the ramp. Secondly, it is very important to place the wheel chocks behind the rear tire once on the ramp for safety.
Forty years ago I drove the front of my 1970 Mustang MachI onto ramps and placed a floor jack under the differential to lift the rear of the car. As the car approached being level, the front tires rolled backwards off the ramp while I was rolling under the rear on a creeper. God was watching over me that day as I scrambled from under the car and the floor jack remained upright rolling along under the moving car. The right rear quarter panel was dented as it hit the door frame of the garage, but I felt very fortunate to be able to pay a body shop to repair and paint that fender.
Forty years ago I drove the front of my 1970 Mustang MachI onto ramps and placed a floor jack under the differential to lift the rear of the car. As the car approached being level, the front tires rolled backwards off the ramp while I was rolling under the rear on a creeper. God was watching over me that day as I scrambled from under the car and the floor jack remained upright rolling along under the moving car. The right rear quarter panel was dented as it hit the door frame of the garage, but I felt very fortunate to be able to pay a body shop to repair and paint that fender.
10-28-2014, 10:15 AM
#24
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There is really no comparison between a 6" wide ramp that is 3" to 4.5" high and a 14" wide ramp that is 9" or 10" high. A single solid wood ramp that is same size as the RR-80-10-2 Race Ramps would weigh in at 80 to 100 pounds. You would quickly get tired of dragging heavy ramps just a few feet in your garage.
Last edited by Fred@ReverseLogic; 10-28-2014 at 10:50 AM.
10-28-2014, 10:19 AM
#25
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I confirmed that the RR-80-10-2 ramp is eligible for the factory $40 rebate. So, the answer to your questions is, "Yes, you get both the 10% discount and the $40 rebate when you order the RR-80-10-2 + RR-WC-10 and RR-WC-2 products."
You can also order the 2-piece RR-WC-10-2 wheel cribs.
http://www.reverselogic.us/shop.html...mps/p/19995831
You can also order the 2-piece RR-WC-10-2 wheel cribs.
http://www.reverselogic.us/shop.html...mps/p/19995831
10-28-2014, 12:41 PM
#26
...Forty years ago I drove the front of my 1970 Mustang MachI onto ramps and placed a floor jack under the differential to lift the rear of the car. As the car approached being level, the front tires rolled backwards off the ramp while I was rolling under the rear on a creeper. God was watching over me that day as I scrambled from under the car and the floor jack remained upright rolling along under the moving car...
(About 45 years ago I got under my Camaro lifted by a bumper jack and... I was a dumb kid, but a LUCKY dumb kid! The differential made a howling noise ever since.)
10-28-2014, 01:14 PM
#27
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10-28-2014, 01:58 PM
#28
Pro
10-28-2014, 03:48 PM
#29
Drifting
Here are a few pictures of my 2-piece 67" long Race Ramps. The car is raised 10" and you can roll bumper to bumper with NO trouble at all. This was one of the best investment that I have made for safety's-sake. My life is worth that $350 investment.
10-28-2014, 08:51 PM
#30
Do you have to use a low profile jack to get under the rear of the C7 after you have the front tires up on the Race Ramps? Or are you able to use a regular profile jack?
10-28-2014, 09:07 PM
#31
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The standard capacity Race Ramps service ramps and wheel cribs are rated at 1500 pounds per ramp. So a 6000 pound vehicle is no problem. Many of the ramp models are available with a Heavy Duty option. The HD ramps are rated at 2500 pounds per ramp.
The attached photo shows the relative size of the 56", 67", and 78" HD ramps. The platform heights are 8", 10", and 12" respectively.
The attached photo shows the relative size of the 56", 67", and 78" HD ramps. The platform heights are 8", 10", and 12" respectively.
Last edited by Fred@ReverseLogic; 10-28-2014 at 09:12 PM.
10-29-2014, 05:28 AM
#32
Race Director
I have always tried to drain the oil fairly level.
10-29-2014, 09:44 AM
#34
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My question: Would it be better to jack the rear up from the middle of the frame, near the rear end housing?
In the picture above, in post #29, it looks like the rear was jacked up from the middle, near the rear end housing.
There are 2 jacking points under the rear end, but the jack would have to go in the middle, between those 2 jacking points....and would that be ok knowing it's an aluminum frame. Has anyone just rolled a floor jack under the frame in the middle, and raised both back wheels, then placed 2 blocks under both wheels?
10-31-2014, 12:10 AM
#35
Race Director
So the method you're using is: Running the front wheels up on the 8" ramps, then jacking up one side at a time in the rear? I've wondered about this. It seems like it would really twist the body around, having the front wheels 8" high, then jacking up one side in the rear.
My question: Would it be better to jack the rear up from the middle of the frame, near the rear end housing?
In the picture above, in post #29, it looks like the rear was jacked up from the middle, near the rear end housing.
There are 2 jacking points under the rear end, but the jack would have to go in the middle, between those 2 jacking points....and would that be ok knowing it's an aluminum frame. Has anyone just rolled a floor jack under the frame in the middle, and raised both back wheels, then placed 2 blocks under both wheels?
My question: Would it be better to jack the rear up from the middle of the frame, near the rear end housing?
In the picture above, in post #29, it looks like the rear was jacked up from the middle, near the rear end housing.
There are 2 jacking points under the rear end, but the jack would have to go in the middle, between those 2 jacking points....and would that be ok knowing it's an aluminum frame. Has anyone just rolled a floor jack under the frame in the middle, and raised both back wheels, then placed 2 blocks under both wheels?
Jacking from the middle is possible too. I remember building lift pads for my C5 to lift from the center, front or rear. Don't know if they would fit a C7.