Z06 Stage 1 Splitter - Painting it Carbon Flash!
#1
Pro
Thread Starter
Z06 Stage 1 Splitter - Painting it Carbon Flash! - Finished!!
After seeing the Z06 Stage 1 splitter, I decided that it was the best looking splitter for my Arctic White C7. My car has all the carbon flash badges and carbon flash mirror and spoiler so I thought that the stock grey/black plastic would look a little out of place on the car, so I began reading the forums and learning how to paint it carbon flash. Thanks again to Glen_E!! his basic painting tutorial gave me a great foundation to start from.
My biggest concern was how to paint the plastic and make sure the paint did not start coming off after a couple months. I photo documented the process so anyone else thinking of trying this can learn from my successes and failures.
After educating myself as much as possible, it was time to order paint supplies from Automotivetouchup.com. They have all the painting supplies you will need.
1.) 1 Can of Carbon flash paint (501Q)
2.) 1 Can of high build grey primer
3.) 1 can of Adhesion promoter (since I was painting plastic)
4.) 1 can of High gloss clear coat
5.) Various sandpaper for wetsanding (400, 600, 1000, 1500, 3000)
Ordered from Amazon
1.) Meguiar's M105 Mirror Glaze Ultra-Cut Compound
2.) Meguiar's M205 Mirror Glaze Ultra Finishing Polish
Other Misc stuff
1.) Rubbing alcohol
2.) Soapy water with Dawn
Here is the splitter before any painting began:
First step was to wet sand the splitter to scuff it up, sand down the small bumps on the surface and to take the sheen off the plastic.
Once done with the initial wet sanding, clean the splitter with soapy water and then rub down with rubbing alcohol.
Next up was to spray 2 light coats of adhesion promoter. Waiting 15 min between coats.
After an hour, the next step was 3 light coats of primer. Waiting 15 min between coats
After another hour, 3 light coats of Carbon flash (501Q) paint, waiting 15 min between coats
After a 2 hour wait, I sprayed 2 light and 3 wet coats of clear coat. Waiting 15 min between coats.
This is where I stand today. I am letting the clear coat dry for 48 hours and then I will begin wet sanding with 1500. then 3000 sandpaper, removing all the shine. I will then use the Meguiar's 105 300-500 strokes to bring the gloss back and then use the Meguir's 205 to polish to a nice gloss. I will then seal with Blackfire Crystal seal.
A quick note. I only will be finishing the parts of the splitter that will be visible.
I will update this thread with my progress over the next week..hopefully culminating with the install this weekend.
-M
My biggest concern was how to paint the plastic and make sure the paint did not start coming off after a couple months. I photo documented the process so anyone else thinking of trying this can learn from my successes and failures.
After educating myself as much as possible, it was time to order paint supplies from Automotivetouchup.com. They have all the painting supplies you will need.
1.) 1 Can of Carbon flash paint (501Q)
2.) 1 Can of high build grey primer
3.) 1 can of Adhesion promoter (since I was painting plastic)
4.) 1 can of High gloss clear coat
5.) Various sandpaper for wetsanding (400, 600, 1000, 1500, 3000)
Ordered from Amazon
1.) Meguiar's M105 Mirror Glaze Ultra-Cut Compound
2.) Meguiar's M205 Mirror Glaze Ultra Finishing Polish
Other Misc stuff
1.) Rubbing alcohol
2.) Soapy water with Dawn
Here is the splitter before any painting began:
First step was to wet sand the splitter to scuff it up, sand down the small bumps on the surface and to take the sheen off the plastic.
Once done with the initial wet sanding, clean the splitter with soapy water and then rub down with rubbing alcohol.
Next up was to spray 2 light coats of adhesion promoter. Waiting 15 min between coats.
After an hour, the next step was 3 light coats of primer. Waiting 15 min between coats
After another hour, 3 light coats of Carbon flash (501Q) paint, waiting 15 min between coats
After a 2 hour wait, I sprayed 2 light and 3 wet coats of clear coat. Waiting 15 min between coats.
This is where I stand today. I am letting the clear coat dry for 48 hours and then I will begin wet sanding with 1500. then 3000 sandpaper, removing all the shine. I will then use the Meguiar's 105 300-500 strokes to bring the gloss back and then use the Meguir's 205 to polish to a nice gloss. I will then seal with Blackfire Crystal seal.
A quick note. I only will be finishing the parts of the splitter that will be visible.
I will update this thread with my progress over the next week..hopefully culminating with the install this weekend.
-M
Last edited by managerman; 01-25-2015 at 07:12 AM.
#3
Racer
Looks good! But I've had cars with painted splitters before and the painted finish is very susceptible to damage from stones and other debris kicked up in traffic. I hope you have better luck than I've had.
#4
Pro
Thread Starter
-M
#5
Pro
Thread Starter
#6
Drifting
I would definitely have Xpel applied asap. I'd hate for you to go through all that and start getting road rash on it right away. It should turn out good. I contemplated painting mine but when I got it I got too anxious and just put it on.
#8
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Looks great. Fantastic job as I was waiting for someone to try this. Please post more pics when you install the splitter. Thanks!
#9
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nice job - the splitter needs paint, in it's stock form, it looks cheap, the flash matches everything... - sorry my opin...
A few tips..
1.skip the 1500 sand and go straight to 3000 - you may have to sand a bit more to get surface uniform matte, but will gloss better..remember to get gloss you will need at least 100 strokes to bring it up. Keep going!
2.unitl you fully xpel, look for the 3/8 in door edge guard from xpel on amazon - tape on the leading edge after waiting 25 days and alcohol wipe first. I have 6000 miles on my painted splitter with not a single ding or mark.
3. next tine do 3 coats of clear - more coats than that makes it more brittle....
4. as long as you don't hit anything, you can touch up with the base coat and 205 anytime....get some artist paint brushes, spay some base in a cup and touch up - then repolish after 2 weeks (not right away)
A few tips..
1.skip the 1500 sand and go straight to 3000 - you may have to sand a bit more to get surface uniform matte, but will gloss better..remember to get gloss you will need at least 100 strokes to bring it up. Keep going!
2.unitl you fully xpel, look for the 3/8 in door edge guard from xpel on amazon - tape on the leading edge after waiting 25 days and alcohol wipe first. I have 6000 miles on my painted splitter with not a single ding or mark.
3. next tine do 3 coats of clear - more coats than that makes it more brittle....
4. as long as you don't hit anything, you can touch up with the base coat and 205 anytime....get some artist paint brushes, spay some base in a cup and touch up - then repolish after 2 weeks (not right away)
Last edited by Glen e; 01-20-2015 at 11:16 AM.
#10
Pro
Thread Starter
nice job - the splitter needs paint, in it's stock form, it looks cheap, the flash matches everything... - sorry my opin...
A few tips..
1.skip the 1500 sand and go straight to 3000 - you may have to sand a bit more to get surface uniform matte, but will gloss better..remember to get gloss you will need at least 100 strokes to bring it up. Keep going!
2.unitl you fully xpel, look for the 3/8 in door edge guard from xpel on amazon - tape on the leading edge after waiting 25 days and alcohol wipe first. I have 6000 miles on my painted splitter with not a single ding or mark.
3. next tine do 3 coats of clear - more coats than that makes it more brittle....
4. as long as you don't hit anything, you can touch up with the base coat and 205 anytime....get some artist paint brushes, spay some base in a cup and touch up - then repolish after 2 weeks (not right away)
A few tips..
1.skip the 1500 sand and go straight to 3000 - you may have to sand a bit more to get surface uniform matte, but will gloss better..remember to get gloss you will need at least 100 strokes to bring it up. Keep going!
2.unitl you fully xpel, look for the 3/8 in door edge guard from xpel on amazon - tape on the leading edge after waiting 25 days and alcohol wipe first. I have 6000 miles on my painted splitter with not a single ding or mark.
3. next tine do 3 coats of clear - more coats than that makes it more brittle....
4. as long as you don't hit anything, you can touch up with the base coat and 205 anytime....get some artist paint brushes, spay some base in a cup and touch up - then repolish after 2 weeks (not right away)
-M
#11
It looks good so far. Mine is still on backorder.
Is there a carbon flash wrap available that would work on the front splitter? It may be easier and more durable than painting. Just a thought...
Is there a carbon flash wrap available that would work on the front splitter? It may be easier and more durable than painting. Just a thought...
#13
Le Mans Master
Does the paint have a "flex agent" in it like the bumper covers which makes it less susceptible to rock chips?
The nose is not as bad as the rocker panels, but I remember that the side brake vents on my '04 Z06 were full of nicks. The black plastic held up well, but glad I did not try to paint them.
The nose is not as bad as the rocker panels, but I remember that the side brake vents on my '04 Z06 were full of nicks. The black plastic held up well, but glad I did not try to paint them.
#14
Intermediate
I had posted a similar thread asking if anyone had done exactly what you did as I was in the same position. I actually ended up working on this last night. I wanted something easier and less work and tool intensive so I ended up doing 4 coats of black plastdip and 3 coats of glossifier. It actually looks good. I know the rubber might peel off from rock chips but I can easily respray. The plastidip on my chrome strip has not had any issues so far. Picture does not do it justice. I will take some more pics today. How mush did the stuff from automotive touchup cost you? I plan on using the existing screws to fasten the backend and then 3M VHB 5925 double sided tape to secure the front end and under the fins. My understanding is the VHB tape is actually stronger than the screws, rivets. I just don't want to drill holes in the body. Any one try the 3M tape?
Last edited by ATXRAY; 01-20-2015 at 02:54 PM.
#15
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the tape is strong, but you gotta remember that wind is pushing the splitter down all the time when driving, and will loosen/expose the tape a bit, and ram dirt and dust into the seal. I'd still screw it on....A splitter that lets loose at 65-80 mph might screw up more than the splitter.....
#17
Pro
Thread Starter
How mush did the stuff from automotive touchup cost you? I plan on using the existing screws to fasten the backend and then 3M VHB 5925 double sided tape to secure the front end and under the fins. My understanding is the VHB tape is actually stronger than the screws, rivets. I just don't want to drill holes in the body. Any one try the 3M tape?
Nice job! The plasti-dip method looks good too! I thought about plasti-dip as well, but I'm sorta **** about matching the carbon flash trim on the entire car, so I went the painting route.
All the painting materials were approx 60.00 shipped.
I will also be drilling holes and fastening the splitter, I purchased the scrivets that were talked about in another post on this forum (I think by C7 Jake).
-M
#18
Le Mans Master
the tape is strong, but you gotta remember that wind is pushing the splitter down all the time when driving, and will loosen/expose the tape a bit, and ram dirt and dust into the seal. I'd still screw it on....A splitter that lets loose at 65-80 mph might screw up more than the splitter.....
(Even though a vendor is now advertising you can install their rear spoiler with just tape and NO bolts)
In fact, I used bumper cover screws on the outside 6 holes where I could reach the back side of the bumper cover, instead of plastic rivets to make the splitter more secure. Using the screws also allowed me to drill only 1/8" holes instead of 5/16" or 1/4" for the plastic rivets. I used 1/4" rivets also to minimize the hole size.
No one will see the holes but smaller holes made me feel better.
Put a flat washer and u-nut on the screws, and you would have to rip the washer through the bumper to tear it loose.
If you do that, you have more problems than just a loose splitter.
1/8" vs 5/16"
Last edited by TEXHAWK0; 01-20-2015 at 04:15 PM.
#19
Drifting
I had posted a similar thread asking if anyone had done exactly what you did as I was in the same position. I actually ended up working on this last night. I wanted something easier and less work and tool intensive so I ended up doing 4 coats of black plastdip and 3 coats of glossifier. It actually looks good. I know the rubber might peel off from rock chips but I can easily respray. The plastidip on my chrome strip has not had any issues so far. Picture does not do it justice. I will take some more pics today. How mush did the stuff from automotive touchup cost you? I plan on using the existing screws to fasten the backend and then 3M VHB 5925 double sided tape to secure the front end and under the fins. My understanding is the VHB tape is actually stronger than the screws, rivets. I just don't want to drill holes in the body. Any one try the 3M tape?
As others have said, I would advise against tape. I used the existing screws and the rivets that came with the splitter. That splitter has a bunch of holes for mounting and I assume that's for good reason. I didn't wanna drill at first but what difference does it really make? I'm definitely not gonna take the splitter off with the way it improves the front end.
#20
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Just food for thought, You never know… You may want to take this splitter off in certain situations. I travel a couple times a year for long trips and literally don't know where I'm actually staying or going, and the road conditions, so for my long trips it comes off. Unless your situation is locked in for the rest of the time you own a car , I would say don't use the tape because you may move to a new house,A new place to work etc. etc. Since the skirts don't have that situation, I screwed and taped them on because they're not coming off.