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I saw a write up where a guy installed his and when I went to the website he mentioned the separator was $350
I think I paid 50 bucks for the one for my 2012 Mustang, I'm not sure if this is one of those "corvette tax" situations or what. It's a can that you put in the PCV line that collects oil, what makes them so expensive for the new LT1?
With all this foam talk and the possibility of problems with the dry sump engines, coupled with the fact that I think oil separators are generally a good idea, I figured I should get one on order for my new car. But I think that price is kinda excessive.
Yeah, mines a little spendy, it's a Stage 2 FI. Heard by many if you're running FI, it's a good idea. I am indifferent, but I'll take the better be safe than sorry route. Tons of opinions on this.
You're kinda talking about two different things here. For the Z51 "burping" issue you need a "clean side separator". What you had on your Mustang was commonly called a "catch can". For $350 you can get a very nice machined aluminum catch can and clean side separator. You can get a catch can alone (again, machined aluminum) for $160.
You're kinda talking about two different things here. For the Z51 "burping" issue you need a "clean side separator". What you had on your Mustang was commonly called a "catch can". For $350 you can get a very nice machined aluminum catch can and clean side separator. You can get a catch can alone (again, machined aluminum) for $160.
Yes they are commonly called a catch can, especially the ones with no filter media inside them.
I'll have to do more research for a clean side separator and see what that's all about. 160 for a separator with factory style lines isn't out of the question.
You're kinda talking about two different things here. For the Z51 "burping" issue you need a "clean side separator". What you had on your Mustang was commonly called a "catch can". For $350 you can get a very nice machined aluminum catch can and clean side separator. You can get a catch can alone (again, machined aluminum) for $160.
As you note, I have a "catch can" in the PCV line from Elite that cost ~$200. (I bought the 2 exit can in case I decide to use the second outlet later but for now just use one replacing the OEM line. After 2 initial checks with the one exit line and observing minimum oil, I'll keep just the simple connect single line, at least for now.)
I also purchased what is referred to as the "clean side oil separator" for $99 also from Elite. It provides added protection from oil coming out of the dry sump tank with the burped air. Both have filter material that collects oil vapor and condenses it into drops. These collect in the PCV "can" and fall back into the dry sump tank in the case of the "separator."
Supposedly GM says it isn't necessary however, the pictures here are of the oil found in mine after only 2000 miles. Seems excessive to me, I don't want this oil coating all the sensors and intake internals on it's way to the combustion chamber coating all the valves and combustion chamber once it gets there. You just can't convince me this is of no concern.
Supposedly GM says it isn't necessary however, the pictures here are of the oil found in mine after only 2000 miles. Seems excessive to me, I don't want this oil coating all the sensors and intake internals on it's way to the combustion chamber coating all the valves and combustion chamber once it gets there. You just can't convince me this is of no concern.
Was that the first 2000 miles of the engines life? If that is the case then I wouldn't call that excessive. As time goes on you should see that amount lessen. If that engine has over 5,000 then I would agree that is excessive.
Seating the rings early is the key to avoiding that btw.
It was after the first 1500 then was the next 2000. I guess I need to wait to pass judgement but having a catch can already installed, not much worrying here either way now.
It was after the first 1500 then was the next 2000. I guess I need to wait to pass judgement but having a catch can already installed, not much worrying here either way now.
Good point, you're pretty much covered now.
I have seen some new engines use a tremendous amount of oil then it completely goes away, just figured I would mention that so you didn't freak out too bad lol.
Supposedly GM says it isn't necessary however, the pictures here are of the oil found in mine after only 2000 miles. Seems excessive to me, I don't want this oil coating all the sensors and intake internals on it's way to the combustion chamber coating all the valves and combustion chamber once it gets there. You just can't convince me this is of no concern.
The reason I added a "catch can" on my C7 and had no concern in my C6 is Direct Injection. With port injection or carburetors, gasoline washes past the intake and cleans oil residue from the back of the intake valves. In fact special cleaning additives are added to gasoline for that purpose. With Direct Injection there is no gas passing the back of the valves. The positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) system pulls crankcase gases and oil mist into the intake. When the oil mist reaches the back of the hot vales it can bake and cause what is called "coking." On a high performance engine the valves operate at higher temperatures and "coking" is more of an issue. In addition, in a lower performance engine flow restrictions caused by "coking" may go unnoticed versus the reduced power in a high performance car where full power is expected.
Ferrari and Porsche have had Direct Injection for several years and there are concerns shown for these cars. It was noted Ferrari was considering a special liquid cleaning solution be used on the intake at each oil change. There are documents showing the mechanical cleaning methods used by BMW to remove this baked on oil. Toyota even has an engine that adds port injection to a Direct Injection engine. The port injection operates periodically to clean the intake!
A quality "catch can" in the PCV system uses a medium to condense the oil mist into drops that collect in the can. Any amount collected is less passing the hot intake valves.
If you're tracking or adding a supercharger the issue is worse.
Just how bad a problem? We'll know in a few years!
Could it be GM feels the oil in the intake is a good thing? Im sure if it was to cause damage GM would have installed a can at the factory. No?
No way!! There was a good article in Hot Rod Magazine where they interviewed a Chevy engineer about the LT4 supercharged motor. He mentioned the issue of "coking" in high performance Direct Injection engines!
Paraphrasing John Rydzewski, assistant chief engineer small block V8's in the December 2014 issue of Hot Rod Magazine: " A PCV separator, which is unique to the LT4, was developed to keep oily air from being drawn through the intake, where it could end up collecting on the back of the intake valves. A little bit of oil on a port injected engine can help lubricate valves, but because all C7 V8's are direct injected, there's no fuel washing the back of the intake valve. That means oil in the PCV system can end up sticking to the back of the hot valves impeding airflow and eventually preventing the valves from seating properly."
There is no way GM wants oil from the PCV system passing over very hot intake valves in a DI engine!! There are some good pics if you search of what "coking" looks like in some other cars, not pretty!
One issue with "catch cans" is they have to be checked periodically, something many owners would not do! GM no doubt did what they could without added extra maintenance and that would meet Government standards. In addition a "catch can" is no doubt a help but is it the total solution, probably not. Manufactures try to use valve overlap to get some intake fuel to wash back onto the intake valve and other methods to mitigate the issues. However Ferrari, Porsche and others have good engineers and have had DI for more years than GM on high performance engines. They apparently have not fully solved the problem!
I had an issue with an oil smell at idle after the dealer changed the oil. I was hoping it was an accidental spill, but after several drives the smell lingers.
I am wondering if the catch can would somehow help with this or not. There was no oil in my intake though.
What is the general consensus on the best Oil Separator/Catch Can for the money?
This is a Z51 car by the way.
I had an issue with an oil smell at idle after the dealer changed the oil. I was hoping it was an accidental spill, but after several drives the smell lingers.
I am wondering if the catch can would somehow help with this or not. There was no oil in my intake though.
What is the general consensus on the best Oil Separator/Catch Can for the money?
This is a Z51 car by the way.
I just had installed the REV Extreme 1LE Clean Side Separator with RX Catch Can, Stage 2 FI.
No way does GM think it's a good thing. It also effectively lowers the octane of your fuel which can lead to detonation, another reason the FI guys usually always run a can.
I think I will at least look at the Elite can, sounds like a reasonable price.
01-25-2015, 11:21 PM
Do You Have An Oil Separator?
As you note, I have a "catch can" in the PCV line from Elite that cost ~$200. (I bought the 2 exit can in case I decide to use the second outlet later but for now just use one replacing the OEM line. After 2 initial checks with the one exit line and observing minimum oil, I'll keep just the simple connect single line, at least for now.)
