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Old 04-14-2015, 07:54 AM
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sanantguy
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Default Trying to price a new Vette

Longtime lurker, first time poster here.

Looking to make my first new corvette purchase and wondering the best (most cost effective way, to go about it).

I'm eligible for more than a few different discounts, one of which is the GM college discount.

The 1LT I priced only option is an auto trans.

The price that goes for that is $52,763.

This seems like a very good price.



My question is, is this the best it gets? or would another dealer do better?
Old 04-14-2015, 08:03 AM
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Corgidog1
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Originally Posted by sanantguy
Longtime lurker, first time poster here.

Looking to make my first new corvette purchase and wondering the best (most cost effective way, to go about it).

I'm eligible for more than a few different discounts, one of which is the GM college discount.

The 1LT I priced only option is an auto trans.

The price that goes for that is $52,763.

This seems like a very good price.



My question is, is this the best it gets? or would another dealer do better?
Take MSRP and subtract 10-11% and that is the price you should get from a large forum dealer without qualifying for any discounts. Better hurry as 2015 orders will be ending shortly and you will need to find a dealer with allocations-and that's the forum dealers.
Old 04-14-2015, 08:12 AM
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sanantguy
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Originally Posted by Corgidog1
Take MSRP and subtract 10-11% and that is the price you should get from a large forum dealer without qualifying for any discounts. Better hurry as 2015 orders will be ending shortly and you will need to find a dealer with allocations-and that's the forum dealers.
I'm in no rush, since this is the last month to order, might actually be smarter to order a 2016.

Anyhow. So your saying that a dealer here will offer a price of max 50,396 (maybe more off). For a 1LT with an automatic trans.


Why does it seem like for that price it would almost be profitable to buy one, then sell it after a year?
Old 04-14-2015, 08:25 AM
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Ernest_T
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Originally Posted by Corgidog1
Take MSRP and subtract 10-11% and that is the price you should get from a large forum dealer without qualifying for any discounts. Better hurry as 2015 orders will be ending shortly and you will need to find a dealer with allocations-and that's the forum dealers.
All the discounts GM are the same -- Military, Credit Union, College, Supplier. They are all around 9%. The employee discount is a little more. I'm not in favor of sending everyone to a forum dealer--if everyone did that there wouldn't be any local Corvette sales and probably no local Corvette trained techs. Talk to your local guys first and if they can't order for you or give you a good price, then by all means try out a forum dealer.

Last edited by Ernest_T; 04-14-2015 at 08:29 AM.
Old 04-14-2015, 08:27 AM
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1SG_Ret
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Originally Posted by sanantguy
Longtime lurker, first time poster here.

Looking to make my first new corvette purchase and wondering the best (most cost effective way, to go about it).

I'm eligible for more than a few different discounts, one of which is the GM college discount.

The 1LT I priced only option is an auto trans.

The price that goes for that is $52,763.

This seems like a very good price.

My question is, is this the best it gets? or would another dealer do better?
A couple of ways to approach this. If a dealer is willing to do a discount (supplier/mil/CU, etc.), it's a painless and straight forward transaction. I went that route 6 months ago when when most dealers in my area wanted full sticker.

There is still some wiggle room in pricing beyond those discounts, but you'll have to do some serious negotiations to get a lower price (at least in my area of the country).

Car buying has always been one thing I hate to do. Very adversarial and a general PITA IMO. I really like the GM deal as I got a fair deal for a car I really wanted. The GM pricing left a bit more meat on the bone for the dealer, but to avoid all the hassle and back and forth, it was worth it for me.

I was able to strike my deal with a dealership 12 miles from home and now have a relationship with the sale and service staff since the car was bought there.

While I could have gone out of state and had the car delivered, I would then be paying a courtesy delivery charge (assuming my local dealership would provide that service) and then pay whatever fee he would charge. There is no set fee, so one dealership may charge you $400 and another may charge you $1000. You won't know until you inquire.

It really depends on you, if squeezing the last nickel out of the deal is your thing, and you're willing to do the leg work and coordination necessary then you should go for it. If on the other hand you want a fair, trouble-free, amicable deal, you can go the GM discount route and relax.

I'm about to start negotiating with a local Mini dealer for my wife's car, and dread it. Their true car pricing is one dollar over sticker price. So I know this will be a uphill battle.
Old 04-14-2015, 08:29 AM
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I thought 2015 new order sales had ended already.
Old 04-14-2015, 08:32 AM
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Originally Posted by 1SG_Ret
A couple of ways to approach this. If a dealer is willing to do a discount (supplier/mil/CU, etc.), it's a painless and straight forward transaction. I went that route 6 months ago when when most dealers in my area wanted full sticker.

There is still some wiggle room in pricing beyond those discounts, but you'll have to do some serious negotiations to get a lower price (at least in my area of the country).

Car buying has always been one thing I hate to do. Very adversarial and a general PITA IMO. I really like the GM deal as I got a fair deal for a car I really wanted. The GM pricing left a bit more meat on the bone for the dealer, but to avoid all the hassle and back and forth, it was worth it for me.

I was able to strike my deal with a dealership 12 miles from home and now have a relationship with the sale and service staff since the car was bought there.

While I could have gone out of state and had the car delivered, I would then be paying a courtesy delivery charge (assuming my local dealership would provide that service) and then pay whatever fee he would charge. There is no set fee, so one dealership may charge you $400 and another may charge you $1000. You won't know until you inquire.

It really depends on you, if squeezing the last nickel out of the deal is your thing, and you're willing to do the leg work and coordination necessary then you should go for it. If on the other hand you want a fair, trouble-free, amicable deal, you can go the GM discount route and relax.

I'm about to start negotiating with a local Mini dealer for my wife's car, and dread it. Their true car pricing is one dollar over sticker price. So I know this will be a uphill battle.
I ordered and bought local too. I'm an advocate of spending my money where I live. The dealer was reluctant to give me the military discount at first, but he came around after I told him I was going to buy one somewhere and it could be from him or someone else. Make a little or make nothing. I'd reminded him I'd bought other cars from him and will be buy more in the future. No threats, just common sense.
Old 04-14-2015, 08:33 AM
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Originally Posted by Ernest_T
I ordered and bought local too. I'm an advocate of spending my money where I live. The dealer was reluctant to give me the military discount at first, but he came around after I told him I was going to buy one somewhere and it could be from him or someone else. Make a little or make nothing. I'd reminded him I'd bought other cars from him and will be buy more in the future. No threats, just common sense.
Outstanding. can anyone answer my question by chance?
Old 04-14-2015, 08:38 AM
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I think March 26, 2015 was the last day to order a 2015. Might have to see what's available on the dealer lots. Most dealers don't order stripped down C-7.
Old 04-14-2015, 08:39 AM
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If a dealer wants my money, well that is what I want. I've been in contact with several local dealers already and come to a decent price already.

If the dealer wants to, hahahahaha. I don't walk into a dealer looking to see what they want, it's the other way around.

If it's only 2016 ordering now, so be it. Even better.

Last edited by sanantguy; 04-14-2015 at 08:52 AM.
Old 04-14-2015, 08:59 AM
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Originally Posted by sanantguy
If a dealer wants my money, well that is what I want. I've been in contact with several local dealers already and come to a decent price already.

If the dealer wants to, hahahahaha. I don't walk into a dealer looking to see what they want, it's the other way around.

If it's only 2016 ordering now, so be it. Even better.
Keep in mind the warranty for 2016 cars is down from 100,000 miles to 60,000.
Old 04-14-2015, 08:59 AM
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Originally Posted by theanswriz42
Keep in mind the warranty for 2016 cars is down from 100,000 miles to 60,000.
I'm cool with that too. My vette won't make it to 60k in my possession.
Old 04-14-2015, 09:01 AM
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Originally Posted by sanantguy
I'm cool with that too. My vette won't make it to 60k in my possession.
Sweet. I've been going through cars every couple years lately too but who knows what will happen to the vette
Old 04-14-2015, 09:04 AM
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Originally Posted by theanswriz42
Sweet. I've been going through cars every couple years lately too but who knows what will happen to the vette


Out of sheer curiosity. If you pick a base vette at $50,396 (which is 10% off msrp)

It seems like it would be near impossible to not make a profit if you just kept the car a year then sold it. Even with tax, tags title factored in.

What do ya'll think?

(i'm not doing this, just a hypothetical)
Old 04-14-2015, 09:09 AM
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Originally Posted by 1SG_Ret
A couple of ways to approach this. If a dealer is willing to do a discount (supplier/mil/CU, etc.), it's a painless and straight forward transaction. I went that route 6 months ago when when most dealers in my area wanted full sticker.

There is still some wiggle room in pricing beyond those discounts, but you'll have to do some serious negotiations to get a lower price (at least in my area of the country).

Car buying has always been one thing I hate to do. Very adversarial and a general PITA IMO. I really like the GM deal as I got a fair deal for a car I really wanted. The GM pricing left a bit more meat on the bone for the dealer, but to avoid all the hassle and back and forth, it was worth it for me.

I was able to strike my deal with a dealership 12 miles from home and now have a relationship with the sale and service staff since the car was bought there.

While I could have gone out of state and had the car delivered, I would then be paying a courtesy delivery charge (assuming my local dealership would provide that service) and then pay whatever fee he would charge. There is no set fee, so one dealership may charge you $400 and another may charge you $1000. You won't know until you inquire.

It really depends on you, if squeezing the last nickel out of the deal is your thing, and you're willing to do the leg work and coordination necessary then you should go for it. If on the other hand you want a fair, trouble-free, amicable deal, you can go the GM discount route and relax.

I'm about to start negotiating with a local Mini dealer for my wife's car, and dread it. Their true car pricing is one dollar over sticker price. So I know this will be a uphill battle.
I recently negotiated a deal for my sister on a MINI coupe in San Jose CA. As I recall she got abot $2.7k off the sticker on a $35k car. Used Edmunds to calculate invoice and negotiated up from there.
Old 04-14-2015, 09:12 AM
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Originally Posted by sanantguy
Out of sheer curiosity. If you pick a base vette at $50,396 (which is 10% off msrp)

It seems like it would be near impossible to not make a profit if you just kept the car a year then sold it. Even with tax, tags title factored in.

What do ya'll think?

(i'm not doing this, just a hypothetical)
What is your definition of "make a profit"? If you include tax, title and insurance for 1 year, you're probably going to be pretty close to the MSRP. Are you thinking you can purchase it for 10% below MSRP and sell it a year later at or above the MSRP?

Also, I agree with previously stated opinion that it was easier to just take the supplier pricing than try to negotiate below that. It was an easy, no haggle, stress free purchase. I believe it is mainly the larger forum dealers that will even consider going below supplier pricing at this time. In another couple years, it should be much easier to do better.

Last edited by dwbaalmann; 04-14-2015 at 09:21 AM.
Old 04-14-2015, 09:13 AM
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Originally Posted by dwbaalmann
What is your definition of "make a profit"? If you include tax, title and insurance for 1 year, you're probably going to be pretty close to the MSRP. Are you thinking you can purchase it for 10% below MSRP and sell it a year later at or above the MSRP?
To clarify.

If you purchase a new vette 10% off msrp what are the chances that you can sell it one year later, say with 10k miles. At msrp.

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Old 04-14-2015, 09:38 AM
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Originally Posted by sanantguy
To clarify.

If you purchase a new vette 10% off msrp what are the chances that you can sell it one year later, say with 10k miles. At msrp.
You can't possibly believe that you could sell a 1 yr old vette with 10K miles at MSRP to an individual with all their faculties intact or do you?
Old 04-14-2015, 09:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Corgidog1
You can't possibly believe that you could sell a 1 yr old vette with 10K miles to an individual with all their faculties intact or do you?


Umm. Yeah, I do. Take a look at cars.com
Old 04-14-2015, 09:41 AM
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Originally Posted by sanantguy
Umm. Yeah, I do. Take a look at cars.com
When you find that guy please let me know, as I have a bridge for sale.


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