Car is Dead
#1
Advanced
Thread Starter
Car is Dead
Came out to the garage and the car was totally dead.
Remote was in the car, window down. Had to open
the door with the emergency release, opened the hatch
with the key. Plugged in the battery tender, still no lights
or any electrical action.
I had moved the steering wheel and the seats manually
the night before.
Any thing I should check?
Thanks for any info,
Remote was in the car, window down. Had to open
the door with the emergency release, opened the hatch
with the key. Plugged in the battery tender, still no lights
or any electrical action.
I had moved the steering wheel and the seats manually
the night before.
Any thing I should check?
Thanks for any info,
#2
Pro
Came out to the garage and the car was totally dead.
Remote was in the car, window down. Had to open
the door with the emergency release, opened the hatch
with the key. Plugged in the battery tender, still no lights
or any electrical action.
I had moved the steering wheel and the seats manually
the night before.
Any thing I should check?
Thanks for any info,
Remote was in the car, window down. Had to open
the door with the emergency release, opened the hatch
with the key. Plugged in the battery tender, still no lights
or any electrical action.
I had moved the steering wheel and the seats manually
the night before.
Any thing I should check?
Thanks for any info,
#3
Pro
OP, if you do not drive you C7 at least every other day or are doing a lot of short trips, plug your battery tender in when your car is just sitting in the garage to prevent a dead battery.
#4
Le Mans Master
I had the same thing happen. Finally found out that the PDR system didn't shut down after the car was turned off and ran till it drained the battery. If your car has PDR, check and see if it continued to record long after you shut the car off. I manually turn mine off each time before exiting the car now.
#5
Le Mans Master
I had the same thing happen. Finally found out that the PDR system didn't shut down after the car was turned off and ran till it drained the battery. If your car has PDR, check and see if it continued to record long after you shut the car off. I manually turn mine off each time before exiting the car now.
#7
Safety Car
You are going to need a battery charger battery tenders do not charge batteries if they are below 11.0V.
They are float chargers they only maintain a charge.
If you can borrow one fine if not they are not alot of money, they are well worth having.
I have an older model of this one
The only problem with this one is you have to keep an eye on it because it is a manual charger it means it keeps charging without shutting down the better model will stop charging when the battery is fully charged.
They are float chargers they only maintain a charge.
If you can borrow one fine if not they are not alot of money, they are well worth having.
I have an older model of this one
The only problem with this one is you have to keep an eye on it because it is a manual charger it means it keeps charging without shutting down the better model will stop charging when the battery is fully charged.
#8
Race Director
Member Since: Sep 2013
Location: Ft Lauderdale
Posts: 10,439
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Tech Contributor
You can get a maintainer to work by doing this:
Get another fresh 12v batt that is fully charged- connect pos to pos, neg to neg
Wait 6 hours while they equalize
Now the dead batt will be charged enuf that the maintainer can work....
And keep in mind a dead batt loses some of its life when flattened, some where in the future, that batt will fail....it's never the same....
Get another fresh 12v batt that is fully charged- connect pos to pos, neg to neg
Wait 6 hours while they equalize
Now the dead batt will be charged enuf that the maintainer can work....
And keep in mind a dead batt loses some of its life when flattened, some where in the future, that batt will fail....it's never the same....
Last edited by Glen e; 07-05-2015 at 12:21 PM.
#9
Race Director
Did you check the fuses?
#10
Advanced
Thread Starter
Thanks for all the info.
When I found the car dead the doors, hatch and glove box were locked. The gas fill door was not.
I measured 2.6V across the battery terminals,
attached a maintainer (not the 3000, although I have one)
directly across the battery terminals. I check the voltage after
an hour and it was up to 4.6V.
This morning the tender was showing the green light but
the voltage was back to 2.6V.
I then jumped started the car and removed the sd card for
the PDR. In my desktop it showed the card as being empty.
I can't remember if I had used the PDR the day before.
I did make a call to On Star from the car the night before.
Is it possible that On Star did not disconnect and ran the battery down?
When I found the car dead the doors, hatch and glove box were locked. The gas fill door was not.
I measured 2.6V across the battery terminals,
attached a maintainer (not the 3000, although I have one)
directly across the battery terminals. I check the voltage after
an hour and it was up to 4.6V.
This morning the tender was showing the green light but
the voltage was back to 2.6V.
I then jumped started the car and removed the sd card for
the PDR. In my desktop it showed the card as being empty.
I can't remember if I had used the PDR the day before.
I did make a call to On Star from the car the night before.
Is it possible that On Star did not disconnect and ran the battery down?
#11
Advanced
Thread Starter
#12
Change your Avatar Picture to the C7 and you'll see the battery will never go dead again.
#13
Team Owner
Member Since: Aug 2007
Location: I live my life by 2 rules. 1) Never share everything you know. 2)
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St. Jude Donor '11-'12-'13, '16-'17-'18
#14
Buy a CTEK MUS 4.3 Smartcharger 8 Step Charger for under $58.00.
Connect to the battery directly, wait 2 days and drive the car.
I keep my C7 connected to the CTEK MUS 4.3 Smartcharger 100% of the time when not driving it and NEVER have any electrical issues of any kind.
This is the best $58.00 you will ever spend.
I own 4 CTEK Smartchargers and they have never failed any of my premium sports cars that I own. They always start after sitting a few months without being started.
The CTEK MUS 4.3 will bring a dead battery back to life.
If you doubt this post, buy one, and if it doesn't complete the task, return it to Amazon.com. I am sure you will not be returnng it.
Connect to the battery directly, wait 2 days and drive the car.
I keep my C7 connected to the CTEK MUS 4.3 Smartcharger 100% of the time when not driving it and NEVER have any electrical issues of any kind.
This is the best $58.00 you will ever spend.
I own 4 CTEK Smartchargers and they have never failed any of my premium sports cars that I own. They always start after sitting a few months without being started.
The CTEK MUS 4.3 will bring a dead battery back to life.
If you doubt this post, buy one, and if it doesn't complete the task, return it to Amazon.com. I am sure you will not be returnng it.
#16
Advanced
Thread Starter
#18
Agree with nmvettec7 that the CTEK MUS 4.3 should do the job. If you want to go one better, the CTEK Multi US 7002 is also a good unit. I did have the first CTEK 3300 Corvette unit I bought from the dealer fail (never went into the maintain mode). The replacement unit works fine.
http://smartercharger.com/products/b...multi-us-7002/
If you want the capability to check your own electrical system and not have to rely on some clueless clown at the local auto parts store, I recommend getting a Midtronics PBT 300:
http://smartercharger.com/products/b...multi-us-7002/
If you want the capability to check your own electrical system and not have to rely on some clueless clown at the local auto parts store, I recommend getting a Midtronics PBT 300:
Last edited by BladeSilver2015; 07-06-2015 at 06:14 PM.
#19
Safety Car
In general, a fast charge is more
Harmful to a discharged battery than a slow/trickle charge. In some cases a fast charge won't take.
Voltage on a fully charged battery will read 2.12 to 2.15 volts per cell, or 12.7 volts for a 12 volt battery. At 50% the reading will be 2.03 VPC (Volts Per Cell), and at 0% will be 1.75 VPC or less.
Anything less than 10.5 volts across the two terminals means a shorted cell or dead cell. Sometimes it can be recovered, sometimes not.
Harmful to a discharged battery than a slow/trickle charge. In some cases a fast charge won't take.
Voltage on a fully charged battery will read 2.12 to 2.15 volts per cell, or 12.7 volts for a 12 volt battery. At 50% the reading will be 2.03 VPC (Volts Per Cell), and at 0% will be 1.75 VPC or less.
Anything less than 10.5 volts across the two terminals means a shorted cell or dead cell. Sometimes it can be recovered, sometimes not.
#20
Burning Brakes