Pull Down Latch Retrofit
#21
E-Ray, 3LZ, ZER, LIFT
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I only have the 2014 Service Manual and frankly following the wiring diagrams is not that easy (even though I wired my Street Rod from scratch!) Theta in the Forum Tech Section has an electronic manual that has a lot more detail and probably will have a 2016. Perhaps a post in that section or a PM will get the help. Will be interested to see what you find
Last edited by JerryU; 07-06-2015 at 12:55 PM.
#22
E-Ray, 3LZ, ZER, LIFT
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I am very happy to keep my door open and have been for the 21 months I've had my C7. I think the Ginger video's are very well done, but as she mentioned in the one you quote their C5 never got to a point of closing without pushing even thought folks said it should. My C7 in 21 months has not reached a point of latching even IF I pull down on the GM handhold very hard!
However in that video is a pic of pushing where in 2013 folks were told at Museum Delivery not to because the paint can crack! Even more concerning to me was a large dealer reported at about the same time that 20% of the C7's he sold had paint cracking!
First all C7's are different in regard to how they latch- some close as designed with no pushing to latch however some do not! Only GM knows why and has not said but put a motorized pull down on the 2016! Will paint crack the 1st time you push in the center - no. But the first time I tried to press to latch I saw the hatch frame bend-so I stopped. In fact if I push where GM says is OK (see pic) I still watch it flex so I don't push, I keep a door (or windows) open before closing the hatch.
My '08 C6 had a motorized pull down and frankly can't recall how my '93 or '88 Vette hatch closed. In fact, think the '93 had no hatch frame in the latch area it was attached to the glass. It appears to me the C7 has a very thin rear hatch frame, in fact a recent poster said his hatch frame cracked from pushing to latch!
Fatigue strength is an interesting material property. Since materials are my background I'll mention differences between metals (of which I'm most familiar) and composites:
Fatigue is an interesting failure mode. It measures how a small defect will “grow” every time a material is stressed, like a bridge when cars go over it or a C7 hatch frame! For carbon steel, if the load is less than ½ the materials ultimate strength you can have essentially an infinite number of loading cycles (that is the way you design a bridge, crankshaft etc.) However for aluminum that is not the case, the crack will continue to slowly grow. Wonder why only AA Fuel Dragsters use aluminum connecting rods and change them after a few races! Ever see an aluminum crank even through some 7000 series alloys are as strong as steel?
Composite materials characteristic response to fatigue is different from that of metals. Where metals exhibit one failure mode, cracking, composites can exhibit one or a combination of failure modes, including fiber breakage, delamination, matrix cracking, interface debonding, and void growth. Much of the fatigue data for composites relates to cycles to fracture (as it is with metals,) whereas composites generally exhibit changes in elastic and strength properties, which could result in structural failure at a fraction of the fracture life.
Enough Materials 101 for this post!
If you are going to push to latch suggest you do so where it is recommend with two hands at the peaks on the outside of the window (green circles)-NOT on the bottom hatch frame member.
Last edited by JerryU; 07-06-2015 at 01:58 PM.
#23
Race Director
At first I could not close my hatch without pressing it down. Now, after 12000 miles, a little flick of the wrist on the little inside handle closes it every time, no slamming at all. Maybe it just needs some break in time...
#25
E-Ray, 3LZ, ZER, LIFT
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Some cars worked from day one, no need to press anywhere to latch! Some of us (have had mine for 21 months) won't latch no matter how hard you pull down with the GM hand hold etc! I also watched my hatch frame bend when pushing to latch and don't want my paint to crack so keep a door open when closing! Then it closes an latches with one finger pushing down from the side! GM didn't revert back to a motorized pull down for the 2016 model for nothing!
To reinforce the point that I am plenty strong enough- to solve a shoulder issue I started lifting weights again 30 years ago! (I had years before.) I do that 7 days a week followed with a tread mill-I'm hooked and the equipment is in my Man Cave/Office! I have a rotating three day routine and on arm and chest day do 6 sets of tricep push downs with 70 pounds (3 sets with a rope.) Also do six sets of 10 bicep curls and not quite curling my own weight, which I had in the past-but close! On back day I do 3 sets of 10 neutral grip pull-ups! In good shape for a 72 year "old man" better than when I was 40!
My Man Cave/Office with dumbbells for warm up, weight machine with equivalent of 750 pound leg press, chin bar I fabricated and my 4th treadmill in ~30 years!
Last edited by JerryU; 07-07-2015 at 10:52 AM.
#26
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
I only have the 2014 Service Manual and frankly following the wiring diagrams is not that easy (even though I wired my Street Rod from scratch!) Theta in the Forum Tech Section has an electronic manual that has a lot more detail and probably will have a 2016. Perhaps a post in that section or a PM will get the help. Will be interested to see what you find
#27
E-Ray, 3LZ, ZER, LIFT
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Theta some time ago said he had the electronic subscription. The dealers do as well but they would have to search for the specific one(s) that would be needed - not easy as the systems are all interrelated.
#29
Drifting
Useful piece of information Thank You I just purchased a "used" 2015 with under 1100 miles on it. Traded in a 2013 GS with hatch assist and was surprised the 15 did not have one.
#30
Melting Slicks
If your '13 GS had heated seats you'll probably be surprised that those on the '15 don't work as well. (I know, another topic, but couldn't resist mentioning it to the new owner)
#31
The method shown in the video does NOT work on my '15Z coupe, as the thing is just too air tight. A draw down latch will be nice on the '16s if for no other reason than it will prevent finger/palm prints!
Last edited by 15Z06; 07-13-2015 at 05:34 PM.
#32
Race Director
#33
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~ 165. Was a bit lighter when I was curling my own weight but once you get hooked, like I am, hard to stop. I started back again when I had a shoulder problem that doctors were only giving me pills and shots. A fellow assured me if I followed his weight exercise routine it would get better without surgery! Took a year with slowly increasing weight but have not been bothered in ~30 years! I am not trying to build muscle but when you have a routine it pays to continue. All the equipment is in my office/man cave so hard to have excuses like I don't have time to go to the gym etc. When I am out of town I try to use whatever facilities they have and it's fun to hear the young folks say quietly, look at that "old man" when I'm doing pull-ups! Really not hard just specific mussels so you start with 1 and progress to 10.
#34
Race Director
72, doing 6 sets of 10 bicep curls @ close to 165...somethin' doesn't quite add up...can ya actually curl 150, 10 times? You must be one powerhouse.
#35
E-Ray, 3LZ, ZER, LIFT
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Going to the doctor for an annual physical tomorrow. I've pulled enough muscles over the years and last year had a partial Achilles tear doing calf raises and the doctor who I have known for over 25 years, will holler loud if I pull a muscle! Plus that requires laying off for about a month or more for that body part!
#36
Race Director
Arnold @ 67 would have trouble with 150...just sayin'
#37
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