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Jake, you have more nerve than I do by pivoting the car on jack stands. When you raise one side, doesn't that make the other side even lower to get a jack under?
Actually raises it higher.
Entire procedure is simple/safe/fast...with proper equipment.
Speaking from experience, you should be VERY cautious raising the car from one side to those heights. If you have an epoxy floor or anything that makes the floor slick (water, oil, sweat, blood, or tears)...the whole car can slide away from the jack. I found this out the hard way as the car fell off the jack and it took out the rear fender and rocker. Fortunately this was many cars ago and I've not made that mistake again.
I don't think the rocker arms are the recommended jack stand positions.
More how not to since those are not recommended points for your jack stands I would say do at own risk
Right jack wrong way!
Lift under the front cross member since you have the right jack with a wood block on the head.
My jack is not as good as the op's so I pull up on race ramps then raise up the front then the back under the crossmembers with a 6 inch piece of 2 by 4 on the head.
I use the clip on leave on pucks to set the car on the stands. Then go the back jack the rear up under the rear cross member as well with a wood shim
or block set the car on the back pucks. Same amount of time but safer.
To change tires I don't use the stands just lift up the side like the Op has shown but only an inch off the ground after I loosen the lug nuts.
Swap them lower. Jack stands I use for stuff like exhaust
My experience is the age factor, as you age you do less of these type of jobs this way, rather, you buy a lift and drive on and stand up as you do all your jobs...just my $.02...
I just received the 2015 Helm manuals (2016 not out yet). The picture for jack points is different than what others have posted. Here it's ok to jack from the centerline of the cradles rather than each side. So no bridge adapter necessary.
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I have the 3 ton low profile from Harbor Freight. Well made, low enough to get comfortably under the Jack Pucks to lift up to around 20" - but I have never had a reason to take it all the way up.
Picked it up on sale for $89 during one of their parking lot sales.
I live in earthquake territory and to me, sitting on 4 jack stands looks unsafe. I have some large wood blocks that I put under each tire so that it cannot fall as far when the shake comes.
I live in earthquake territory and to me, sitting on 4 jack stands looks unsafe. I have some large wood blocks that I put under each tire so that it cannot fall as far when the shake comes.
Wherever you live, using 4 jack stands is NOT recommended! Nor is jacking a C7 from the center of all but one cross member! Not my opinion GM's and warning on a pair of my jack stands. See pics below.
Also lifting a car with a hydraulic jack requires being sure in moves into the car as you lift to keep the jack saddle under the lifting point. The higher you lift and the smaller the jack the more it needs to move in; it's based on the simple geometry of the moving links! If it doesn't move in the saddle will slip off of the jack pad etc!
The C7 saved 25% of the weight of the aluminum front and rear cradles in a C6 by making them from thin wall hollow castings. Cast aluminum is less ductile and more likely to crack then the solid aluminum cradles on the C6. GM says NOT to lift in the center of the hollow cross member in the rear and all but one of the ones in front (that must be strong enough to allow loading in the center.) That member is the inner most that is tough to reach.
Worked on cars with my Dad from the time I was ~10. After we jacked up a car and put the frame (all cars had frames then) on concrete blocks (our jack stands) I had to hit the car hard with my shoulder before we even removed a wheel to change brake shoes, for example. As pop said, "If it's going to fall it should do it before we remove a wheel or get under it!" He had a friend killed when a jacked-up car fell! I would not hit a car with my shoulder when it was on 4 jack stands!
See pic from the 2014 C7 Service Manual (which is the same as the Owners Manuel pic but clearer) that I colored to assist in defining the GM recommended jacking points. Also put in a pic from the warning label on one pair of my jack stands. Your car, your choice but be safe!
Note, the warning label on two of my jack stands says to use only one end of the car! When changing oil to get the car level I use homemade wood stanchions under the rear tires and jack stands under the proper outer locations on the front cross member.
Pic copied from the C7 2014 Service Manual-Colored for Clarity.
Jake,
You have more nerve than I do by pivoting the car on jack stands.
I would only trust jack stands to hold the car if the whole car is raised and then lowered straight down onto the stands..
Also, when you raise one side, doesn't that make the other side even lower to get a jack under?
Get more then one jack. I have four. Fifty Nine dollars at Harbor Freight with coupon.
Model numbers for the floor jack and jack stands please, I need to look those up and maybe get those!
So to put the C7 on all 4 stands just jack right/left side up, place 2 stands under, then repeat for the other side, very nice thanks for the write up!
Originally Posted by C8Jake
Full slam/stock bolts...ACS Zero7 rockers 1/4 inch rocker clearance with saddle on front puck
$200 for jack & 3.5 Ton stands 14 inch > 21 inch
1. Lift from front puck only & place stands 2. Repeat opposite side
09-03-2015, 11:12 PM
