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I have the BendPak HD9 4 post lift and very happy with it. I opted for the 220V model as it lifts the car much quicker than the 110V. I don't have it bolted down and have no issues with it. For my use, it works perfectly.
Yes, the Vette will be replacing the the black Mustang.
I bought an Eagle 7000 4-post lift 10 years ago and it only cost me $1,699 delivered. It has been a great lift. I did not want to do a 2 post because I would need to dig up the floor because the current cement floor is not thick enough to drill anchors. Plus I need to be able to move the lift on the supplied casters to get at the two cars stored on the right side of my garage. I did have to install an 8-foot door track and add a panel to my 16 foot wide door so that it would be higher in the opened position.
Over the years I have had many cars in my garage including a $1.1 million dollar 1988 959S Porsche. Right now I use it for my 2015 C7, my 2008 C6 and my 2012 CTS-4. I sometimes store a friend's McLaren MP4-12C or Ferrari F430, or Audi RS7, or Audi S8, or one of several other nice cars.
I can drive in and out without having to position the lifts arms like on a 2-post lift. It is great for detailing cars or doing oil changes. Here are some photos:
Great collection of cars! The 959 has been one of my favorites of all time.
Originally Posted by FredC7
I bought an Eagle 7000 4-post lift 10 years ago and it only cost me $1,699 delivered. It has been a great lift. I did not want to do a 2 post because I would need to dig up the floor because the current cement floor is not thick enough to drill anchors. Plus I need to be able to move the lift on the supplied casters to get at the two cars stored on the right side of my garage. I did have to install an 8-foot door track and add a panel to my 16 foot wide door so that it would be higher in the opened position.
Over the years I have had many cars in my garage including a $1.1 million dollar 1988 959S Porsche. Right now I use it for my 2015 C7, my 2008 C6 and my 2012 CTS-4. I sometimes store a friend's McLaren MP4-12C or Ferrari F430, or Audi RS7, or Audi S8, or one of several other nice cars.
I can drive in and out without having to position the lifts arms like on a 2-post lift. It is great for detailing cars or doing oil changes. Here are some photos:
A little off topic but I am looking for recommendations for a stand alone 4 post lift for my new C7. I have a 3 car garage with approximately 10' ceilings. I would have to install new garage door rails and opener to change the way the door opens.
I am looking for suggestions, based upon experience, for brand, cost, installation, etc... Ideally looking for a stand alone which would not have to be anchored into the floor, and a 110v unit (220v if necessary).
Thanks in advance...
I went with Direct lift -they had me call a dealer/ distributor and deal directly with them. It is rated for 8,000lbs, 110 volt, can be left unbolted to the floor and includes lift wheels to move, (4) drip pans, and a movable HD metal cross piece that you can use a bottle jack in.
it was $2,500.00 delivered and installed -bought about 1 1/2 years ago.
Great collection of cars! The 959 has been one of my favorites of all time.
Yeah it was the super car of the 80's. This is the 959S that was on the season premiere of Chasing Classic Cars this year. Wayne Carini contacted my friend and talked him into putting it up for auction at Amelia Island. It sold for $1.1 million. It looked like a new car.
I have a 4-post lift, and for hobbyist, its a good solution... its self-supporting, so you don't need structural mods to your garage... easy to install, and gives you additional parking.
You can also do maintenance. I used it to rebuild the entire rear suspension on my 71 C3. Its a bit cumbersome compared with a two post, but I'm not a production shop... better than lying on the garage floor.
I have had a directlift for about 5 yrs. Their parent company is Dover Elevators if I'm not mistaken. They were a little more than the Eagle lifts and a little less than the Bendpac. You will need a engine hoist to put it together. It weighs about two thousand pounds. With the casters it is easily moved if you need to. I also bought one of the sliding jacks with it which is a must have option in my opinion. If I had to do it over I would buy one of the ext models that are a little longer and wider. If you put a truck or SUV on a standard lift it is tight.
FredC7 what did you put under the lift pedestals ( plywood ) ?? were you trying to level the lift ?? most garage floors are built with a 1/8 inch drop per foot, also 220 may be a little faster BUT I don't like 220 bites more than 110, PLUS I like the lift moving slower so that you are in total control of the lifting process, I feel that fast lifting could put you in a mess, especially if a cable changes underneath...and or the locks don't set uniformly, also putting 220 throughout the garage is expensive and I just use an extension cord when I move my lift to another section of the garage...just my $.02
FredC7 what did you put under the lift pedestals ( plywood ) ?? were you trying to level the lift ?? most garage floors are built with a 1/8 inch drop per foot, also 220 may be a little faster BUT I don't like 220 bites more than 110, PLUS I like the lift moving slower so that you are in total control of the lifting process, I feel that fast lifting could put you in a mess, especially if a cable changes underneath...and or the locks don't set uniformly, also putting 220 throughout the garage is expensive and I just use an extension cord when I move my lift to another section of the garage...just my $.02
Pastohio, yes those are small solid wood cabinet doors that I covered with rubber roofing material. They are there to raise that end up due to the slope in the floor of my very old garage. I also use 110 volt and am very cautious when raising or lowering to make sure it comes down evenly. Once the locking nut for the rod controlling the brake latches came loose and one end stayed locked. Luckily I saw that it was hung up and raised it back up.
I went with Direct lift -they had me call a dealer/ distributor and deal directly with them. It is rated for 8,000lbs, 110 volt, can be left unbolted to the floor and includes lift wheels to move, (4) drip pans, and a movable HD metal cross piece that you can use a bottle jack in.
it was $2,500.00 delivered and installed -bought about 1 1/2 years ago.
I have the same (Direct Lift ProPark 8). It is a great piece of equipment. The posts are short enough to fit under my low garage door when opened. Very satisfied. 220 Volts reduces lift time from 60 seconds to 45 seconds. Wasn't worth it for me. I bought the optional jack and solid center decking to hold my three wheeler's center wheel. The ramps are very heavy and cumbersome, so I will try to make lighter ones eventually.
I have the same (Direct Lift ProPark 8). It is a great piece of equipment. The posts are short enough to fit under my low garage door when opened. Very satisfied. 220 Volts reduces lift time from 60 seconds to 45 seconds. Wasn't worth it for me. I bought the optional jack and solid center decking to hold my three wheeler's center wheel. The ramps are very heavy and cumbersome, so I will try to make lighter ones eventually.
The ramps are probably the only PIA -they are very heavy steel and would have been better in aluminum.
I missed the jack option and use bottle jacks in the sliding cross piece -how much was the jack?
I Also have an Eagle Lift (see Post #22 but mine is red) that I purchased 22 years ago for $2100 shipped to NM.
It is rated at 7000 #s and has a jack tray, drip pans, casters and 36" Ramps.
I would now opt for the Aluminum ramps as the steel ramps are heavy and I would pass on the drip pans and casters as I have never moved the lift.
It is not bolted to the floor, is 110v, and has been trouble free since I purchased it.
Pat
Last edited by Pat Salerno; 08-03-2015 at 10:13 AM.
Reason: Sp
The ramps are probably the only PIA -they are very heavy steel and would have been better in aluminum.
I missed the jack option and use bottle jacks in the sliding cross piece -how much was the jack?
The Direct Lift ProPark 8 (8,000 lb) was $2,195 in Feb 2015, and the 3,500 lb jack was $550. The jack is robust and useful, but very heavy and somewhat difficult to slide forward and back. Solid center decking pieces were $75 each piece (I bought four). Deliver and professional installation was $600 and worth every penny. Assembly did not look fun. The unit comes with casters and is very easy to move around the garage once assembled.
The ramps are probably the only PIA -they are very heavy steel and would have been better in aluminum.
Agreed, the ramps with these lifts are a total pain, plus they are too short. The front of my car would scrape on the ramps, so I have to extend it with a piece of wood.
I ended up getting Race Ramps, so much better and very easy to handle. They are extended and designed for lowered cars. The ramps weigh about 10lbs each and I hang them up on my wall when not in use.
Which Race Ramps are you using? I have been looking at the hooked nose ramps that are 48" long by 20" wide. I can't even begin to get my C7 on the lift with the standard BendPak ramps.
Originally Posted by YZFMax
Agreed, the ramps with these lifts are a total pain, plus they are too short. The front of my car would scrape on the ramps, so I have to extend it with a piece of wood.
I ended up getting Race Ramps, so much better and very easy to handle. They are extended and designed for lowered cars. The ramps weigh about 10lbs each and I hang them up on my wall when not in use.
I have the RR-RACK-HN14-5. The only problem is that you cannot use the hooks on the BendPak due to the design. The hooks are very deep and interfere with the metal rod that protects the tube for the air locks. If you are using another brand, it might work.
Which Race Ramps are you using? I have been looking at the hooked nose ramps that are 48" long by 20" wide. I can't even begin to get my C7 on the lift with the standard BendPak ramps.
I have the RR-RACK-HN14-5. The only problem is that you cannot use the hooks on the BendPak due to the design. The hooks are very deep and interfere with the metal rod that protects the tube for the air locks. If you are using another brand, it might work.
YZFMax - my lift is an HD-9 as well, did you modify the hook to address the interference issue? Any reason you didn't go with the wider 20" ramps?
My C7 has a carbon splitter and has been lowered to the max on the stock bolts. Do you think these ramps will allow me to get the car on the lift given my minimal clearance?
07-28-2015, 09:12 AM
