Battery Dead
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Battery Dead
My Battery on my '14 Z51 appears to be dead as I cannot gain entry using either FOB 1 or FOB 2. I'm aware of the key hole by the license plate and intend to use that tomorrow. I also know my battery is in the trunk area vs. where the dry sump system is under the hood. Would you 1) call GM roadside 2) AAA or 3) just try to jump it myself. I'm not excited about pulling up the carpet in the back to expose the battery, but on my Buyer's Tour in Bowling Green I did get a tutorial on when/if this would happen what I should do.
#2
Le Mans Master
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St. Jude Donor '15-'16,'18
You could try using the 12v port in the trunk and a battery tender to see if you can charge the battery enough to get it started. Then the dealer can check the battery to confirm it is shot.
#3
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St. Jude Donor '12-'13-'14-'15-'16-'17
I'd jump it or replace the battery. It's not that hard.
#4
Considering buying a CTEK MUS 4.3 8 Step SmartCharger and connecting directly to the battery 10mm posts.
The CTEK MUS4.3 sold at Amazon can most likely bring the battery back to life if not completely dead. Then thereafter keep the C7 connected to the CTEK even when parked in the garage.
Hook up direct to C7 10mm battery posts as shown below. It is very easy to get to the battery in the rear hatch. Just gently pull up the rear right corner of the carpet to expose the foam battery cover.
The CTEK MUS4.3 sold at Amazon can most likely bring the battery back to life if not completely dead. Then thereafter keep the C7 connected to the CTEK even when parked in the garage.
Hook up direct to C7 10mm battery posts as shown below. It is very easy to get to the battery in the rear hatch. Just gently pull up the rear right corner of the carpet to expose the foam battery cover.
Last edited by nmvettec7; 01-01-2016 at 11:31 PM.
#5
Pulling up the carpet is no big deal.
Even though it feels scary and tight, once you do it the first time, it's easy to do the next. It tucks back down very nicely, and securely.
Even though it feels scary and tight, once you do it the first time, it's easy to do the next. It tucks back down very nicely, and securely.
#6
E-Ray, 3LZ, ZER, LIFT
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My Battery on my '14 Z51 appears to be dead as I cannot gain entry using either FOB 1 or FOB 2. I'm aware of the key hole by the license plate and intend to use that tomorrow. I also know my battery is in the trunk area vs. where the dry sump system is under the hood. Would you 1) call GM roadside 2) AAA or 3) just try to jump it myself. I'm not excited about pulling up the carpet in the back to expose the battery, but on my Buyer's Tour in Bowling Green I did get a tutorial on when/if this would happen what I should do.
First pop off the bottom clips of the plastic wheel well cover on the passenger side. It can be done with your hands or insert a screw driver about an inch up from the floor and get it far enough out to pull with your hands. Only need to deal with the bottom clips, no need to remove the top connectors, etc. If you don't take this step first there is a chance you'll rip the carpet corner.
Second pull out the carpet slowly and fold the right corner back on itself. That exposes a foam piece covering the battery. Just remove it and there is the battery.
Connect jumpers per the Owner's Manual.
Last edited by JerryU; 01-02-2016 at 06:48 AM.
#7
Le Mans Master
You really do need to keep a battery tender on these cars if they are not going to be driven for awhile. If you don't the battery will go dead.
You can also connect a tender pigtail under the hood. There is a + post on the fuse box that can be used and a ground post on the frame near the alternator.
You can also connect a tender pigtail under the hood. There is a + post on the fuse box that can be used and a ground post on the frame near the alternator.
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JimNeedsC7 (01-02-2016)
#8
Pro
I agree you need trickle charge if leaving it more than a few weeks.
#9
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if the batt is totally dead, a 3 stage smart charger may not bring it back. Sometimes a fresh batt is needed to connect and equalize, and bring it up to 10 volts, then the charger will work.
but more than just replacing the batt, I'd be investigating what made it go flat.
but more than just replacing the batt, I'd be investigating what made it go flat.
#10
You do not have to rely on the dealer or anyone else to check your battery, charging system or starting system on any vehicle you own. Get a Midtronics PBT 300 and check it yourself. Will let you know if you have a bad cell even on a discharged battery. I have had one for years and use it constantly to monitor the health of all my vehicle batteries. Uses the same algorithms that the dealers use to warranty replace batteries. Worth every penny.
Last edited by BladeSilver2015; 01-02-2016 at 08:58 AM.
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L8ter (01-02-2016)
#11
Team Owner
I would try this first. If it fails than call AAA tell them you need a new battery if that is what works best for you.
#12
Safety Car
If your car is still in warranty, it might be best to take it to the dealer and have him replace the battery and check your charging system. If not under warranty, jump start your car and take it to someone to check your battery. If only a dead battery, replace it. If your battery goes dead again and you are driving your car regularly or using a charger, I would take it to the dealer.
#13
Read post #4 above again, and take the advice. You won't have any problems with a battery.
#14
E-Ray, 3LZ, ZER, LIFT
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If your car is still in warranty, it might be best to take it to the dealer and have him replace the battery and check your charging system. If not under warranty, jump start your car and take it to someone to check your battery. If only a dead battery, replace it. If your battery goes dead again and you are driving your car regularly or using a charger, I would take it to the dealer.
I check from time to time and it still reads ~12.4 volts (after 24 hrs so I'm not reading the surface charge) on a calibrated VOM but has started the car fine even after I was on vacation for 2 1/2 weeks! Have not used the GM equivalent charger since I bought it in 2013 to see if a max charge would solve the problem-it didn't! With a fully charged battery, the C7 should be able to sit for ~30 days without needing a charger.
It's now out of warranty and frankly would not want another Delco. Waiting for the first sign to replace it and will buy an AGM battery with higher capacity than the Delco .
Last edited by JerryU; 01-02-2016 at 10:08 AM.
#15
Melting Slicks
You didn't state how long it had been since you had driven it, but if it has been more than a week or so this may be the reason the battery is dead and a trickle charger would have saved you some trouble. I too own the CTEK MUS 4.3 (per recommendations from the forum) and plug it in any time the car will sit more than a couple of days. Note that although you can hard wire the leads such as others have pointed out and nmvettec7 has given some great pictures, it is not required. There is an aux plug on the wheel well just above the battery location designated for this purpose. So if you don't want to go the hard wired method, this is a viable option. It has been working fine for me.
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nmvettec7 (01-02-2016)
#17
Le Mans Master
[QUOTE=7LitreC5;1591234374]You really do need to keep a battery tender on these cars if they are not going to be driven for awhile. If you don't the battery will go dead.
I had a dead battery one time in 2004. I started using a battery tender right then and there
and five Corvettes later no dead battery.
I had a dead battery one time in 2004. I started using a battery tender right then and there
and five Corvettes later no dead battery.
Last edited by robertbruce; 01-02-2016 at 10:27 AM.
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nmvettec7 (01-02-2016)
#18
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I recall replacing the battery in my '88, that was fun, had to slip it out from the side panel! My interior lights stayed on in my '93 and the battery was dead the next day. It was never the same and needed to be replaced. In my '08 read a low voltage and found there was a crack in the case and one cell had low fluid, replaced it with an Optima.
The C7, as you note, does not have those issues. It shuts inself down.
The pic below was taken from the 2014 Service Manual that confirms your statement. However those who do want to not accept it will surly continue!
If fully charged car should start after 30 to 35+ days
Last edited by JerryU; 01-02-2016 at 11:10 AM.
#19
Melting Slicks
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This is excellent advice. I never did this with my C6 and I ended up replacing the battery at least 3 times, and it was much easier to do. I use the CTEK drip charger that came with my C7. You can buy a good one for about 50 bucks, much cheaper than buying 1 new battery.
You really do need to keep a battery tender on these cars if they are not going to be driven for awhile. If you don't the battery will go dead.
You can also connect a tender pigtail under the hood. There is a + post on the fuse box that can be used and a ground post on the frame near the alternator.
You can also connect a tender pigtail under the hood. There is a + post on the fuse box that can be used and a ground post on the frame near the alternator.
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nmvettec7 (01-02-2016)
#20
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St. Jude Donor '12-'13-'14-'15-'16-'17