C7 rear tub replacement
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
C7 rear tub replacement
Has anyone done a rear tub replacement on a C7? I assume it's mainly bonding agent holding it in there, but wanted to see if anyone who had done it before had any advice. Thanks in advance!
#2
Team Owner
Haven't seen anyone discuss it in C7 yet but here's one from C6 a few years ago. AFAIK C7 is the same bonding system as the C6, or at least similar.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-required.html
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-required.html
#3
Instructor
Yes it is a bonding agent mainly holding it with a couple screws here and there. It's a PITA to remove and will most likely be an all day job for you. That being said... It's not just the tub you're going to have to replace. The upper part of the whole rear hatch will have to be replaced as well. It's all fiberglass so you can't just take the upper part off and put it on the new tub because that is also bonded to the lower tub and will never be removed. There's also this thing that sticks out in the lower tub closer to the seats of the trunk that will have to be cut around in order for the tub to be lifted up and removed.
#4
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
I'm planning on an all month job. Luckily, I also need to replace the upper fiberglass so that won't be a problem. Thanks guys. I bet I will understand the thing up front when I get to it. What did you use for the bonding agent? The same 3M stuff from that previous thread?
#5
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
If someone should stumble upon this later, please note that page 3-97 through 3-101 of the 2015 Corvette service manual contains a detailed procedure for replacing the rear tub.
Thanks for the help you guys, I'll let you know how it goes.
Thanks for the help you guys, I'll let you know how it goes.
#6
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Also, Airstingray, I defer to your experience and assume you are correct, but the service manual seems to think you can separate the two panels by using a heat gun to melt the adhesive between the top and bottom. Mine is ruined, so I will not be trying.
They say you have to heat it to 400 degrees and you will hear a noticeable pop when it releases. They recommend using the heat gun over all the frame rails (where the adhesive is) is in order to release the lower panel from the frame.
They say you have to heat it to 400 degrees and you will hear a noticeable pop when it releases. They recommend using the heat gun over all the frame rails (where the adhesive is) is in order to release the lower panel from the frame.
Last edited by Luke42_02; 06-01-2016 at 02:14 AM.
#7
Le Mans Master
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St. Jude Donor '15
Sounds ambitious, good luck!
#8
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
#9
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St. Jude Donor '15
Good luck and lots of patience and you will be rewarded. I had one in the body shop for 30 days getting repaired, new tubs, body work, paint, etc. Watched some of the repairs and talked with the body man...wow. Lots of work.
Got to see him use the heat gun on some of the tub and you could hear the bonding agent when it let go, was kind of neat.
Got to see him use the heat gun on some of the tub and you could hear the bonding agent when it let go, was kind of neat.