Another torque converter failure
#1
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Another torque converter failure
I'm having to have the torque converter replaced in my 2015 (only 7400 miles on it.) Initially I thought the engine was misfiring or something but I believe the techs got to the right cause. The symptom was at certain RPMs it would feel like the engine was missing either a gear tooth or cylinder wasn't making spark or something. It was a slight feeling of slipping rather than accelerating when at 1500 RPMs at 35MPH all the way up to 70MPH.
The dealership is taking care of it and its under warranty, so no issue there. Glad to have it fail now while it is in warranty.
For those who had this done, is there anything I should be aware of afterwards? Any break-in period? Anything I should test or try out to ensure it was replaced correctly?
Thanks
Scott
The dealership is taking care of it and its under warranty, so no issue there. Glad to have it fail now while it is in warranty.
For those who had this done, is there anything I should be aware of afterwards? Any break-in period? Anything I should test or try out to ensure it was replaced correctly?
Thanks
Scott
#2
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St. Jude Donor '15
That sucks. I hope they get it fixed right for you!
#3
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St. Jude Donor '15-'16,'18
I'm having to have the torque converter replaced in my 2015 (only 7400 miles on it.) Initially I thought the engine was misfiring or something but I believe the techs got to the right cause. The symptom was at certain RPMs it would feel like the engine was missing either a gear tooth or cylinder wasn't making spark or something. It was a slight feeling of slipping rather than accelerating when at 1500 RPMs at 35MPH all the way up to 70MPH.
The dealership is taking care of it and its under warranty, so no issue there. Glad to have it fail now while it is in warranty.
For those who had this done, is there anything I should be aware of afterwards? Any break-in period? Anything I should test or try out to ensure it was replaced correctly?
Thanks
Scott
The dealership is taking care of it and its under warranty, so no issue there. Glad to have it fail now while it is in warranty.
For those who had this done, is there anything I should be aware of afterwards? Any break-in period? Anything I should test or try out to ensure it was replaced correctly?
Thanks
Scott
Good luck with your repair. Let us know how it goes. Has your dealer completed any of these repairs on other C7s?
#4
Drifting
Make that two.
In my case, the torque converter was locking up all the time, even when stopped. Apparently when doing tests GM asked them to do, "something else broke" (really, stressing the drive train over and over again broke something??). They are still working on it.
FYI: my car has 19000 miles on it.
In my case, the torque converter was locking up all the time, even when stopped. Apparently when doing tests GM asked them to do, "something else broke" (really, stressing the drive train over and over again broke something??). They are still working on it.
FYI: my car has 19000 miles on it.
#5
Darn, I was hoping that failures were occurring with fewer miles. I am approaching 6K miles and thought I was home free. I guess not. Did you drive your car aggressively? I was very gentle for the first 2K miles and found the tranny not performing well so I increased my aggressiveness and the tranny is shifting much better. I'm hoping that I won't have this issue later on but I guess that may not be the case.
Good luck with your repair. Let us know how it goes. Has your dealer completed any of these repairs on other C7s?
Good luck with your repair. Let us know how it goes. Has your dealer completed any of these repairs on other C7s?
#10
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All I can say is good luck guys and hope your repair is done correctly and runs like it is supposed too.
#11
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Too bad you are having that problem - hope the dealer gets it fixed right the first time.
#12
Burning Brakes
I completely fixed all my A8 issues today!!
Lost my *** trading in after only owning the A8 for 9 months, but ill enjoy the M7 much more.
2015 2LT A8 traded in for a 2016 1LT M7. I went 1lt to help offset the negative equity.
Swapped my z06 replica wheels and showstopper led side markers over to the new car. Picked up a new z06 poverty splitter ans grille today. Headers and new spoiler will come in tomorrow.
Lost my *** trading in after only owning the A8 for 9 months, but ill enjoy the M7 much more.
2015 2LT A8 traded in for a 2016 1LT M7. I went 1lt to help offset the negative equity.
Swapped my z06 replica wheels and showstopper led side markers over to the new car. Picked up a new z06 poverty splitter ans grille today. Headers and new spoiler will come in tomorrow.
#13
If you don't mind me asking what month was your car built? I haven't read about too many 2016's with these issues. I intentionally bought a car with a late 2016 model year build to try to avoid these issues (mine was built April 2016). So far so good after 1k miles but your post is a bit scary. Best of luck.
#14
Heel & Toe
I am experiencing the same issues at 9500 miles on a 2015 M7 Stingray. Anyone else notice this on a M7? I have seen various threads regarding the A8 but not sure about the M7? Appreciate any information...
#15
Burning Brakes
My car was built 9/15. And as you can see by my other thread I started the check engine light came on this morning and the car is stuck in 4th gear. Flat bed is en route. Ugh
#16
#18
Safety Car
I have an A8 2015 built in Oct 14. My T/C problems started at 9K miles and it took me several dealers before I found one who had replaced torque converters and knew the symptoms of bad torque converter. All of the T/C failures are due to a bad o-ring. Before it is over, I am predicting there will be a lot of T/C replacements due to the bad o-rings. You just can't stop production because you have a bad part. I am glad mine was replaced while in warranty. I plan on keeping mine for more than 5 years and your powertrain warranty will not cover your transmission or engine after 5 years or 100K miles. My car was kept for a week while the transmission was removed and the T/C replaced with the New Revised T/C. I am sure the cost of replacing the T/C would be in the thousands if you did not have a warranty. If your A8 needs to be replaced, it would be 6K plus labor at 130.00 an hour, without a warranty.
#20
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