JerryU

The following is the process and (the why in Bold) and probably why some dealer mechanics helpers operating the oil change bay don't follow the procedure so oil gets into the air intake and drips from the air cleaner!

Per the Owner's Manual, to check the oil level it must be up to temperature (~175 F) then you wait 5 minutes after the car is shut off (to allow the oil to drain from the baffles in the dry sump tank) BUT unlike a wet sump you cannot wait more than 10 minutes ((since the oil drains back from the dry sump tank to the oil pan past the scavenge pump gears so waiting too long gives a false low reading.)

When changing oil you not only have to remove two drain plugs BUT also must check the level and NOT just add the approximate amount of oil shown in the table! That is clearly spelled out in the 2014 Service Manual and is what I have done for ~50 years in wet and dry sumps! It's the level that is important. For most of us that is about 1/2 quart less than what the table shows. In addition many of us keep the level between min and max which is a 1/2 quart less than max. That provides insurance that oil will not burp with all the air that pumps into the dry sump tank from the crankcase. If you want to drain all the oil from the pan you have to also pump a lot of air! It must be "burped" back from the dry sump tank into the air intake. So we wind up adding ~1 quart less than the table!

I mechanics helper may take the easy way out and set their fill pump for the volume estimate in the table! They don't want to underfill, run the car ~10 minutes to heat the oil and sit around waiting 5 minutes and not just take a coffee break and come back to check the level after 20 to 30 minutes, as they can with a wet sump!

If you change your own oil no big deal. If not than you can do what many are doing with their dry sumps. Ask the dealer to install 9 quarts and give you the 10th! Then when you get the car home, check the level and fill to the level desired!

They dealer may resist since it is cheaper for them to pump the dexos approved oil blend they have in their 55 gallon drum! Also be sure to ask for Mobil 1.

JoesC5

I have been changing the oil in my Z06 dry sump for eight years.

I always drive the car for at least 45 minutes to get the engine and oil up to temp, so I'm draining hot oil.

I always drain the oil from both plugs, flex the rear oil line from the oil reservoir about a dozen times waiting a couple of minutes between the flexing, wait around 45 minutes total before I re-install the two drain plugs.

I then lower my car(I have two 4-post lifts in my garage), pour in the required 10.5 quarts(I have a C6 Z06 that requires 10.5 quarts, not a C7 Z06 that requires 9.8 quarts). I replace the fill cap, and start the car, checking for leaks.

I then back my Z06 out of the garage, take it for a short spin to stabilize the oil temp, and then park it in my driveway for 7-10 minutes.

I then check the oil level and I have never had to either add oil or remove oil, as it's always at the top "Full" mark on the dipstick. This has been true for eight years now.

Roadrogue

Ditto.

455230

Why?

ExRedRacer

Because I want to have a car that handles as well as possible. I don't care if I track it or not....there are lots of fun cloverleaf freeway on and off ramps around my area and I'm gonna enjoy them starting in a few days when I finally get back into a Vette.

I don't care if the normal ride is not as cushy as a non--Z51....Plus I like the extra braking power and as I mentioned earlier, I like the look.

MikeLsx

The Z51 has better suspension, better road feel, better looks, better sound exhaust etc...

never seen such a no brainier option before.

JerryU

For whatever reason when the C7 dry sump (Z51's) came out there were many forum posts about oil dripping out of the air cleaners. Perhaps the tank has less extra height above the filled oil level compared to C6 dry sumps. It is sensitive to over filling. In addition if you use the approximate oil capacity in the Owner's Manual it is about 1/2 quart over the max fill line. Some have reported more.

I lift my car with the rear slightly higher than the front so I am draining all possible oil from the pan and dry sump tank. In fact I have pushed up on the short fill and return oil hoses from the front of the pan to dry sump tank that was suggested for C6 dry sump cars to get the last bit of old oil out. Almost no extra oil drains. The oil/air scavenge pump is driven off of the front of the crank in a C7. I put 9 quarts of oil in and run the engine to get the oil hot and check the level (as it says to do in the 2014 Service Manual and frankly what I have always done for ~50 years of changing oil in many cars.)

With 9 quarts it is just above the add mark. I add just enough to bring it half way in the hatched area, which is a half quart from the MAX level. In total I add just under ~9 1/4 quarts. Did that since my 1st oil change that was at ~1500 miles since GM did not send out the bulletin about changing oil at 500 miles for ~1 year after I got my September 2013 built 2014. There were many forum reports of oil dripping from the air cleaner, which I did not have.

GM came out with that bulletin that said change the oil in dry sumps at 500 miles or oil MAY enter the air duct (with the burped air from the dry sump tank) IF the engine is operated at SUSTAINED high speed. They said that was due to oil foaming caused by silicone coming from curing engine seals depleting the oils anti-foam agents in the first oil fill.

However from the time that bulletin was issued, in 2014, until even now there are reports of oil dripping from the air cleaner. IMO, from many posts in appears dealers overfilling has been the major problem from day one compared to folks operating the engine at sustained high speeds before the first oil change!

I added a low restriction air intake system (aFe) about 1 1/2 years ago and carefully looked for oil where the burped air hose vents the dry sump tank into the air duct and looked for any drops on the air cleaner. None! When I drove my car home from the dealer, ~150 miles, I immediately carefully checked the oil level following the Owner's Manual of: 1) having hot oil, 2) waiting 5 minutes for oil to drain down from the dry sump tank baffles 3) but not more than 10 minutes so an excess amount of oil has not drained back to the pan thru the oil/air scavenge pump gears. It was 1/4 inch below max, which is 1/4 quart low. That is were I left it until that first oil change at 1500 miles.

FWIW for C6 dry sump owners who buy a C7. Suggest underfilling when changing oil, checking the level -per the service manual and good practice- and then fill to what ever level you wish.

Rave

Many that don't buy the Z51 package turn around and add some of the Z51 features later (larger Z51 Sway Bars, larger wheels, etc). This is probably one of the most asked questions on these Corvette forums. My suggestion is do a search on this topic, read everyone's opinions. My guess is, if you're asking, you don't need it.

RedC7AZ

There is always a valid debate either way on which to get and tens of thousands have purchased the C7 with no Z51.

The drawbacks of the Z51 have been discussed countless times.

It's a decision procesd many C7 owners have gone through.

Far from a no brainer for many.

Foosh

It's a "no-brainer" to people who value the things the Z51 offers. It's an equal "no-brainer" to those who do not care about those things.

LIStingray

The biggest difference between the Base and Z51 is ride - the Z51, especially without MSRC rides much harder than the Base car.
For some hard ride = better handling, which in the real world of imperfect pavement isn't true at all.
On the street, no one will ever get more out of a Z51 than a base car because the performance difference is so small.
We have a few good roads in a low traffic area (during off hours) that have some moderate speed (50-75 mph at 0.95g) turns. I have been there several times with my C7 Base and my friend in his C7 Z51, and we will follow each other through the turns - I have no problem keeping up with him, but he virtually never is able to do the same; the reason why: I have no problem pushing my C7 to 0.90-1.04g (highest I have seen on the meter) on a regular basis in that area, and he just can't (not that they car isn't capable of it) seem to push it much beyond 0.85g.
I suspect most drivers fall into the category of my friend, who think they are pushing hard, but are nowhere near the limits of any C7.
Personally, I like the ride of the base (mine does have Z51 sway bars) for the street much better than the Z51 or Z06; but having done the Ron Fellows 2-day and 3-day level 1, I can appreciate how a Z51 is the better track weapon.

MikeLsx

Let me first say, i am not one of those people who believe in buying full loaded cars. I feel a lot of cars today have stupid stuff that drives up prices. If i were to buy a Z06 it would have no options.

I value 3 things in a car that fits my price range in no order.
looks - rims, rear spolier.. theres a reason why GM showcased the red Z51.
sound- NPP sounds as good as aftermarket.
performance - car feels more firm


So my overall point is that I value looks, sound, and performance. The Z51 enhances every one of those attributes, i dont understand why someone getting a corvette wouldn't want it. the looks alone from the Z51 were enough for me.

JoesC5

There is a reason GM does not ONLY offer the Stingray with the Z51 as standard equipment.

Some people are not interested in owning a Z51. Good to have choices. If you want to own a Z51, fine, but don't tell others that their choice of a non Z51 is stupid.

Same holds true with other models(GS and Z06) and other options.

joeybsyc

I have a Z51 without MSRC and would hardly describe the ride as harsh, ever.

Truth be told, I was dead set to order a 1LT base model, with no other options besides performance exhaust and black painted base wheels. It wasn't that I didn't want Z51, I just figured a new vette would still be great, even if it was the entry level car. Right before I placed my order I found a barely driven Z51 2LT with several other options I wouldn't have had on my base model. The price was about the same as a new 1LT base, maybe even a little less... so I pulled the trigger. So is Z51 a must? No, but I don't think you'll regret getting it either.

Micster

I wouldn't say Z51 was a must for me. I talked with some friends, read a lot on Vette forums, rented a C7 while in Seattle, and then "built my spec" from Chevrolet's website. After evaluating everything, my spec became: 2LT, Z51, coupe, 7-sp. M. (I digress- finding stick was an absolute bear!)

I honestly cannot say I need the upgrades that comprise Z51. I CAN say though, that I'm having an absolute BLAST in my new car.

AdventurePoser

Yes.

Seriously, we bought this car because of it's looks, not the engineering.

motomanvette

These posts always forget to mention the Electronic Limited Slip, which you can only get with the Z51. Read some "white papers" on it, it's a pretty slick piece. It can actually help in high speed straight-line stability situations. So the Z51 is much more than shocks and sway bars. I like having the best technology available.

K_Dean1

My opinion - absolutely.

vbdenny

I guess if you buy a Corvette for a daily driver car because it's better than a Buick, base is just fine. If you buy a Corvette for a toy then you'll probably want the Z51 if for nothing else the exhaust sound. Either way still better than Almost everything else.

Skid Row Joe

/THREAD