Another tow hook question
08-22-2016, 10:52 AM
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Another tow hook question
I have read through a number of threads on this subject and pretty sure I know the answer but just wanted to validate. I have a 2015 Z51 built on 09/14. The front grille has the removable piece to access the tow hook area but I do not see a threaded female point. What I do see is what looks like a cap (metal round piece with rubber gasket) inserted into what I think would be the threaded location for the hook. Same for the rear location. I'm assuming this means I don't have the ability to use tow hooks.
08-22-2016, 11:53 AM
#2
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Jul 2015
Location: Northern California
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St. Jude Donor '15
I thought all 2015's had it. Did you pop the piece off and check?
08-22-2016, 12:58 PM
#3
Drifting
Tow hook receivers were a running change on 2015 Z51s. They started to appear on cars produced during December of 2014.
OP, you will need to purchase the receiver kits offered by forum vendors and potentially other suppliers.
OP, you will need to purchase the receiver kits offered by forum vendors and potentially other suppliers.
Last edited by Boiler_81; 08-22-2016 at 08:27 PM.
08-22-2016, 03:01 PM
#4
Instructor
Thread Starter
Not sure I can reach the front plug without removing front fiscal and the rear would require removing the lower black painted portion. Have already done both exercises installing Zo6 grille and new spoiler on rear. Not sure I'm ready for that task again. The tow hook option was an after thought, which I should have worked before hand. But thanks for the info guys.
08-22-2016, 07:58 PM
#6
Instructor
Thread Starter
If you don't mind could you tell which vender you purchased from and also does the receiver go exactly where the oem threaded female would have been.
08-23-2016, 11:09 AM
#9
Racer
08-24-2016, 09:48 AM
#12
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STINGRAY70A (08-25-2016)
08-24-2016, 10:22 AM
#13
Drifting
I was doing some research on this too, because mine is also an 'early' 2014 w/o the receivers. I ran across this advisory about towing. It seems tow hooks are only meant for pulling disabled cars off tracks/courses, but flat-bed towing requires a centered tow point. Sorry, I don't have the original source link. http://www.stingrayforums.com/forum/...tructions.html
I ended up ordering one of these in a custom length:http://www.ebay.com/itm/291177211318?euid=0359ddd5aec5400f94cc43782404a63b&bu=43157022510&cp=1&sojTags=bu=bu
1) The C7 can’t be towed using dolly wheels with either the C7 front or rear wheels touching the ground. This is because the electronic suspension components (e.g., magnetic selective ride control, electronic limited slip differential) are locked unless the engine is on.
2) Use ramps (e.g., 2x6 staggered lumber) to prevent the C7 front spoiler from hitting the truck bed on approach. Several drivers commented that they built special ramps to help load exotic cars with low ground clearance.
3) The consensus it to use T-hooks inserted into the frame slots (i.e., jack point spots) behind the front wheels. Recommendation is not to place a strap around the control arms or any other aluminum casting.
4) One driver states, “Our company policy is no eyelets. Two separate connecting points on all tows. In this way if one fails you have back up.”
5) The bridle connecting the T-hooks should be 40 inches or longer to clear the oil pan. It is suggested that the bridle be made from straps and not metal chain to avoid damaging aluminum underbody parts or the composite spring. Double check that the bridle does not touch the oil pan as drivers commented that a good bump may crack the oil pan.
6) Place a 4x4 between the tow cable and C7 underbody near the front splitter/ air dam to keep the cable from scraping against any part of the C7.
7) Use around the wheel tie down straps and do not wrap straps around aluminum suspension components (e.g., engine cradle, transmission cradle). Also, don’t pass straps through wheel spokes for tie down. Although this may seem as a convenient and safe method, it can damage the clear coat on the wheels.
8) Do not load the car from the rear. The car is not aerodynamic in this direction and there are cases where the T-top has blown off.
2) Use ramps (e.g., 2x6 staggered lumber) to prevent the C7 front spoiler from hitting the truck bed on approach. Several drivers commented that they built special ramps to help load exotic cars with low ground clearance.
3) The consensus it to use T-hooks inserted into the frame slots (i.e., jack point spots) behind the front wheels. Recommendation is not to place a strap around the control arms or any other aluminum casting.
4) One driver states, “Our company policy is no eyelets. Two separate connecting points on all tows. In this way if one fails you have back up.”
5) The bridle connecting the T-hooks should be 40 inches or longer to clear the oil pan. It is suggested that the bridle be made from straps and not metal chain to avoid damaging aluminum underbody parts or the composite spring. Double check that the bridle does not touch the oil pan as drivers commented that a good bump may crack the oil pan.
6) Place a 4x4 between the tow cable and C7 underbody near the front splitter/ air dam to keep the cable from scraping against any part of the C7.
7) Use around the wheel tie down straps and do not wrap straps around aluminum suspension components (e.g., engine cradle, transmission cradle). Also, don’t pass straps through wheel spokes for tie down. Although this may seem as a convenient and safe method, it can damage the clear coat on the wheels.
8) Do not load the car from the rear. The car is not aerodynamic in this direction and there are cases where the T-top has blown off.
08-24-2016, 01:03 PM
#14
What was your custom length? Have you tried it on the car?
I was doing some research on this too, because mine is also an 'early' 2014 w/o the receivers. I ran across this advisory about towing. It seems tow hooks are only meant for pulling disabled cars off tracks/courses, but flat-bed towing requires a centered tow point. Sorry, I don't have the original source link. http://www.stingrayforums.com/forum/...tructions.html
I ended up ordering one of these in a custom length:http://www.ebay.com/itm/291177211318...&sojTags=bu=bu
I ended up ordering one of these in a custom length:http://www.ebay.com/itm/291177211318...&sojTags=bu=bu
08-25-2016, 10:23 AM
#15
Drifting
I haven't received it yet. I just ordered it TU morning. I requested 80" on a side (160" from hook to hook with the D-ring floating between the two). That should clear the bumper by about 6-10" and allow for a 4x4 wooden spacer under the cross member or anywhere else needed.
08-25-2016, 11:46 AM
#16
Burning Brakes
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-for-sale.html
Last edited by Magister Ludi; 08-25-2016 at 11:47 AM.
10-10-2016, 09:53 PM
#17
I haven't received it yet. I just ordered it TU morning. I requested 80" on a side (160" from hook to hook with the D-ring floating between the two). That should clear the bumper by about 6-10" and allow for a 4x4 wooden spacer under the cross member or anywhere else needed.
Following up about your v-strap towing rig. Are you satisfied with how it works? Was the 160-inch length about right? Do you need to carry a 4X4 with you to make it work?