Retrofit for Apple CarPlay vs. NavTool for Nav
11-11-2016, 11:10 AM
#1
Pro
Thread Starter
Retrofit for Apple CarPlay vs. NavTool for Nav
Yes, another post about Apple CarPlay. Sorry, this is a bit long, but here’s my story, for what it’s worth, for those that might be thinking of doing this and might be interested anyway on do I go with a “Apple CarPlay/Android Auto retrofit” or go with “NavTool” for a “no Nav” 2014/2015 C7.
Here we go…. I was part of the “pre-order” NavTool saga that started last year and for the most part, satisfied with it. Keep in mind I only got it for the smart phone mirroring to use the Nav capability displayed on the center screen; I did not get it for adding front/side cameras. It works fine, doing it’s job as advertised, but the annoying part for me was that I still had to take the phone out from the center console every time to make the entries, and the most annoying part was that I also had to fumble around to put my reading glasses on to see the small text on the phone. Not something you want to do when you’re driving.
Fast forward to last month when I was on a business trip to Virginia and I ended up with a 2016 Chevy Cruze rental car. I’ve heard all the stories about how Apple CarPlay/Apple Maps were garbage, it’s not worth it to get it, it’s a waste, people never use it, blah, blah, blah. So here was my opportunity to check it out to get my own personal opinion on all this. So the TomTom stayed in my bag and I plugged in the IPhone and after a quick setup, I was off and running.
Four days later after it worked great (Nav, phone/text access features, and music access), I was hooked on considering doing the retrofit when I got home. The directions part worked great, loved using the touch-screen instead of fumbling with the phone and the best part of all, I didn’t need my glasses to see the screen to make the inputs!!
Got home and checked out one company that sold the retrofit for Apple CarPlay and Android Auto and they had it on sale for $100 off. I didn’t want factory Nav (always outdated and costs to update) and opted for the I05 (as opposed to I06 that included factory Nav) HMI module kit and got it for $895. The kit came with the I05 HMI module, a new radio receiver, and a new double USB setup for the center console.
Now comes the installation. Fortunately I had experience pulling trim panels when I did some interior upgrades to the dash and door panels (some of you may have seen in some of my earlier posts), not to mention hooking up the NavTool wiring that went into the side of that radio receiver.
First the HMI module on the driver side A pillar and the USB port swap out went off without a hitch, but it’s always a trick to remove those wire connectors and can make your fingertips a bit sore until you get the hang of it. Then came the radio receiver swap-out. TAKE YOUR TIME AND BE PATIENT! Wow, this was not easy!! Here’s the run down: Once you get the carpet up on the passenger side and you have clear access; remove the plate protecting these things and the “fun” begins. First I removed the control module from the bracket that holds it by removing the tape on the left side that keeps it from rattling, snapping it out and laying it face down on the floor, NOT REMOVING THE WIRES/CONNECTORS. It will lay just fine on the floor with all the wiring connected and be out of the way for what comes next. Look up slightly to the right and you will see a nut that holds the bracket in place; remove the nut so the bracket can move a little freely. Now back to removing the radio receiver. You can see through the holes in the bracket, the radio receiver behind the bracket. All the connectors are on the left and you will be pulling it out from around the left side. Start by reaching under the receiver and remove that same type of sticky tape that is on the bottom of the radio receiver here, just like what you removed earlier from the left side of the front module. Next push on the radio receiver and you should hear it pop out what holds it in place. Now gently pull on the lower left portion of the bracket outward toward you, giving enough room to work the radio receiver out on the left side. This is the scary part where you need to be careful to try and not snap the bracket. I just could not see where the bolts were at the top to remove it completely and avoid this, hence doing it this way, slowly and carefully. Once you manipulate the receiver out, then you can remove all the connectors much easier once it is out. Obviously, reverse the process for the install. I recommend you write down the XM radio code from the new receiver that is on the sticker in the “XM Satellite Radio” block on the receiver so you can call them to update it if you want to still use XM radio, even if you don’t subscribe, I would let them know (I don’t subscribe, but will do it anyway to not cause problems anytime in the future).
After all that, I started it up and everything worked perfectly!!!! When you place your order, you give them your VIN so they do all the coding for your specific car. Of course you have to re-enter time/date and all your pre-select radio stations, etc., but no problems. Looking at the Apple CarPlay web site, there are a number of Apps that can be used, but still no “Google Maps” or “Waze” like you Android Auto folks will have. So us Apple lovers can only hope that in the future we can get more possibilities. Apple Maps aren’t really all that bad; they get the job done for what I need anyway.
Tom
Here we go…. I was part of the “pre-order” NavTool saga that started last year and for the most part, satisfied with it. Keep in mind I only got it for the smart phone mirroring to use the Nav capability displayed on the center screen; I did not get it for adding front/side cameras. It works fine, doing it’s job as advertised, but the annoying part for me was that I still had to take the phone out from the center console every time to make the entries, and the most annoying part was that I also had to fumble around to put my reading glasses on to see the small text on the phone. Not something you want to do when you’re driving.
Fast forward to last month when I was on a business trip to Virginia and I ended up with a 2016 Chevy Cruze rental car. I’ve heard all the stories about how Apple CarPlay/Apple Maps were garbage, it’s not worth it to get it, it’s a waste, people never use it, blah, blah, blah. So here was my opportunity to check it out to get my own personal opinion on all this. So the TomTom stayed in my bag and I plugged in the IPhone and after a quick setup, I was off and running.
Four days later after it worked great (Nav, phone/text access features, and music access), I was hooked on considering doing the retrofit when I got home. The directions part worked great, loved using the touch-screen instead of fumbling with the phone and the best part of all, I didn’t need my glasses to see the screen to make the inputs!!
Got home and checked out one company that sold the retrofit for Apple CarPlay and Android Auto and they had it on sale for $100 off. I didn’t want factory Nav (always outdated and costs to update) and opted for the I05 (as opposed to I06 that included factory Nav) HMI module kit and got it for $895. The kit came with the I05 HMI module, a new radio receiver, and a new double USB setup for the center console.
Now comes the installation. Fortunately I had experience pulling trim panels when I did some interior upgrades to the dash and door panels (some of you may have seen in some of my earlier posts), not to mention hooking up the NavTool wiring that went into the side of that radio receiver.
First the HMI module on the driver side A pillar and the USB port swap out went off without a hitch, but it’s always a trick to remove those wire connectors and can make your fingertips a bit sore until you get the hang of it. Then came the radio receiver swap-out. TAKE YOUR TIME AND BE PATIENT! Wow, this was not easy!! Here’s the run down: Once you get the carpet up on the passenger side and you have clear access; remove the plate protecting these things and the “fun” begins. First I removed the control module from the bracket that holds it by removing the tape on the left side that keeps it from rattling, snapping it out and laying it face down on the floor, NOT REMOVING THE WIRES/CONNECTORS. It will lay just fine on the floor with all the wiring connected and be out of the way for what comes next. Look up slightly to the right and you will see a nut that holds the bracket in place; remove the nut so the bracket can move a little freely. Now back to removing the radio receiver. You can see through the holes in the bracket, the radio receiver behind the bracket. All the connectors are on the left and you will be pulling it out from around the left side. Start by reaching under the receiver and remove that same type of sticky tape that is on the bottom of the radio receiver here, just like what you removed earlier from the left side of the front module. Next push on the radio receiver and you should hear it pop out what holds it in place. Now gently pull on the lower left portion of the bracket outward toward you, giving enough room to work the radio receiver out on the left side. This is the scary part where you need to be careful to try and not snap the bracket. I just could not see where the bolts were at the top to remove it completely and avoid this, hence doing it this way, slowly and carefully. Once you manipulate the receiver out, then you can remove all the connectors much easier once it is out. Obviously, reverse the process for the install. I recommend you write down the XM radio code from the new receiver that is on the sticker in the “XM Satellite Radio” block on the receiver so you can call them to update it if you want to still use XM radio, even if you don’t subscribe, I would let them know (I don’t subscribe, but will do it anyway to not cause problems anytime in the future).
After all that, I started it up and everything worked perfectly!!!! When you place your order, you give them your VIN so they do all the coding for your specific car. Of course you have to re-enter time/date and all your pre-select radio stations, etc., but no problems. Looking at the Apple CarPlay web site, there are a number of Apps that can be used, but still no “Google Maps” or “Waze” like you Android Auto folks will have. So us Apple lovers can only hope that in the future we can get more possibilities. Apple Maps aren’t really all that bad; they get the job done for what I need anyway.
Tom
Last edited by monicatomokc; 12-06-2018 at 04:26 PM.
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Foosh (11-11-2016)
11-14-2016, 07:32 PM
#2
I've done the opposite , I first had the CarPlay HMI upgrade and then got NavTool. My issues with apple maps is lack of information that Waze is offering such as speed traps and all sorts of red light cameras. Waze will never be available on the CarPlay so that's why HMI upgrade isn't worth it.
11-15-2016, 12:25 PM
#3
Pro
Thread Starter
As I understand it, Waze and Google Maps are available using Android Auto, so an upgrade for those that use that type of phone might still be worth it to them.
The benefit of getting the most current Nav information from using a cell phone and having the ability to access it using the car touch-screen was more important to me than the Nav provider (i.e., Waze or Google Maps). I would still be using the NavTool option had I not tried the other way and got hooked on the convenience.
The benefit of getting the most current Nav information from using a cell phone and having the ability to access it using the car touch-screen was more important to me than the Nav provider (i.e., Waze or Google Maps). I would still be using the NavTool option had I not tried the other way and got hooked on the convenience.
10-11-2017, 08:15 PM
#6
Safety Car
I've done the opposite , I first had the CarPlay HMI upgrade and then got NavTool. My issues with apple maps is lack of information that Waze is offering such as speed traps and all sorts of red light cameras. Waze will never be available on the CarPlay so that's why HMI upgrade isn't worth it.
As for speed traps and red light cameras, Waze only really tells you what somebody reported as a cop. And very often, about 40% of the time, there's no cop there (why, well you see they are in these moving things called cars). Plus most of my driving does not involve stop lights or at least not red light cameras.
Then there's the fact that Waze's route overview just sucks.
