Side skirts - style or function?
#42
Le Mans Master
IMHO it's 90% looks and 10% function. That said, I'm putting on a set of stainless steel and carbon fiber side skirts.
http://www.chevymall.com/C7-Stingray...uctinfo/AN667/
http://www.chevymall.com/C7-Stingray...uctinfo/AN667/
How 'bout a few pics, after installation.
Nice!
What is your source?
Did you drill?
#43
E-Ray, 3LZ, ZER, LIFT
Member Since: Sep 2007
Location: NE South Carolina
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FWIW, many who plan to install side skirts have some concerns about drilling. I have had my side skirts on for 3 years, they are sold as a rock and fit very tight. They were installed with OEM bolts at the ends and rivets in the center. Have had folks comment that after using tape they installed rivets to get a very tight fit and for the security. The following is how easy it is to do:
There is a gap between the bottom of the rocker panels and the frame so the use of "Scrivets" some have used would not have worded for me. Second the rocker panels are made of SMC and drill like butter! I used aluminum rivets that once installed don't stick out of the back side of the rocker panel. They also require a smaller hole than Scrivets.
If concerned about hitting the aluminum frame etc, when drilling just slip a piece of thin metal behind the panel. Most side skirts use OEM bolts on both ends that place the side skirt exactly in position. The OEM bolts in the center are too far in to effectively support the skirt. So your drilling holes between the bolts after the side skirts are in place, no guessing or alignment needed.
I used small stainless steel fender washers under the rivet head to spread the load. An inexpensive manual rivet gun works fine for aluminum rivets.
The hardest part is physiological -drilling that first hole! If for whatever reason you wish to remove the side skirts you could just drill them out or grind the aluminum rivet head and the stainless fender washer would protect the side skirt. Only an "ant" would see the small holes! In fact the ~3/16 inch drilled holes could be filled and touch-up paint would make them no more visible than the marks that unprotected panel bottoms would get from debris hitting them!
LG Motorsports CF Side Skirts are Contoured Vertically and Fit is Tight
Sketch and Pic of Installed Rivet with Washer. You're Drilling Into a SMC Plastic Composite Panel NOT the Aluminum Frame. The Stainless Steel Washers I Used Help Spread the Load.
There is a gap between the bottom of the rocker panels and the frame so the use of "Scrivets" some have used would not have worded for me. Second the rocker panels are made of SMC and drill like butter! I used aluminum rivets that once installed don't stick out of the back side of the rocker panel. They also require a smaller hole than Scrivets.
If concerned about hitting the aluminum frame etc, when drilling just slip a piece of thin metal behind the panel. Most side skirts use OEM bolts on both ends that place the side skirt exactly in position. The OEM bolts in the center are too far in to effectively support the skirt. So your drilling holes between the bolts after the side skirts are in place, no guessing or alignment needed.
I used small stainless steel fender washers under the rivet head to spread the load. An inexpensive manual rivet gun works fine for aluminum rivets.
The hardest part is physiological -drilling that first hole! If for whatever reason you wish to remove the side skirts you could just drill them out or grind the aluminum rivet head and the stainless fender washer would protect the side skirt. Only an "ant" would see the small holes! In fact the ~3/16 inch drilled holes could be filled and touch-up paint would make them no more visible than the marks that unprotected panel bottoms would get from debris hitting them!
LG Motorsports CF Side Skirts are Contoured Vertically and Fit is Tight
Sketch and Pic of Installed Rivet with Washer. You're Drilling Into a SMC Plastic Composite Panel NOT the Aluminum Frame. The Stainless Steel Washers I Used Help Spread the Load.
Last edited by JerryU; 12-10-2016 at 08:25 AM.
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sabasigh (12-11-2016)
#44
Le Mans Master
For what it's worth, I have had my side skirts on for 3 years, they are sold as a rock. They were installed with OEM bolts at the ends and rivets in the center. Have had folks comment that after using tape they installed rivets to get a very tight fit and for the security. The following is how easy it is to do:
There is a gap between the bottom of the rocker panels and the frame so the use of "Scrivits" some have used would not have worded for me. Second the rocker panels are made of SMC and drill like butter! I used aluminum rivets that once installed don't stick out of the back side of the rocker panel.
If concerned about hitting the aluminum frame etc, when drilling just slip a piece of thin metal behind the panel. Most side skirts use OEM bolts on both ends that place the side skirt exactly in position. The OEM bolts in the center are too far in to effectively support the skirt. So your drilling holes between the bolts after the side skirts are in place, no guessing.
I used small stainless steel fender washers under the rivet head to spread the load. An inexpensive manual rivet gun works fine for aluminum rivets.
The hardest part is physiological -drilling that first hole! If for whatever reason you wish to remove the side skirts you could just drill them out or grind the aluminum rivet head and the stainless fender washer would protect the side skirt. Only an "ant: would see the small holes! In fact the ~3/16 inch drilled holes could be filled and touch-up paint would make them no more visible than the marks that unprotected panel bottoms would get from debris hitting them!
LG Motorsports CF Side Skirts are Contoured Vertically and Fit is Tight
There is a gap between the bottom of the rocker panels and the frame so the use of "Scrivits" some have used would not have worded for me. Second the rocker panels are made of SMC and drill like butter! I used aluminum rivets that once installed don't stick out of the back side of the rocker panel.
If concerned about hitting the aluminum frame etc, when drilling just slip a piece of thin metal behind the panel. Most side skirts use OEM bolts on both ends that place the side skirt exactly in position. The OEM bolts in the center are too far in to effectively support the skirt. So your drilling holes between the bolts after the side skirts are in place, no guessing.
I used small stainless steel fender washers under the rivet head to spread the load. An inexpensive manual rivet gun works fine for aluminum rivets.
The hardest part is physiological -drilling that first hole! If for whatever reason you wish to remove the side skirts you could just drill them out or grind the aluminum rivet head and the stainless fender washer would protect the side skirt. Only an "ant: would see the small holes! In fact the ~3/16 inch drilled holes could be filled and touch-up paint would make them no more visible than the marks that unprotected panel bottoms would get from debris hitting them!
LG Motorsports CF Side Skirts are Contoured Vertically and Fit is Tight
Thanks!!
Last edited by Chuck72; 12-10-2016 at 08:13 AM.
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JerryU (12-10-2016)
#45
Advanced
I, not like most, need the down force. Checked my average speed today on the dash and it was a blistering 27 MPH!
#46
Racer
Haven't heard of "driving shoes", although do remember "driving gloves". What are they?
#47
Race Director
even with them (on a Z06 for example) you will need a LOW AND WIDE splash guard installed. I did this upon purchase and left the side skirts off the car. I am still not sold on the look with my car being shark gray and having the 10 blade spoke wheels in silver (along with the shark gray vents) my PARTICULAR car looks better without them or should i say it adds nothing as they don't contrast enough to enhance the look. my car has an athletic look to it without the skirts. just my opinion and i have the cash aside for the skirts and splitter just can't do it (yet)..
#48
Instructor
I am tempted to pick these up due to their lower profile shape. But do they provide enough protection? Seems like there is no coverage towards the rear. Visually I'd rather have no skirts..but if these stage 1 help protect from chips, then I'm in. Or are the more aggressive skirts (zo6/acs zero, stage 2) the only ones that protect the paint?
#49
Drifting
I am tempted to pick these up due to their lower profile shape. But do they provide enough protection? Seems like there is no coverage towards the rear. Visually I'd rather have no skirts..but if these stage 1 help protect from chips, then I'm in. Or are the more aggressive skirts (zo6/acs zero, stage 2) the only ones that protect the paint?
These, paired with GM splash guards, and Xpel along my rockers has kept my car chip-free, and don't detract from the lines of the car. Mine are painted carbon flash, and fit up perfectly using existing hardware at the ends, and pre-applied heavy duty 3M molding tape in the center. No drilling was required and they're as rock solid as the day they were installed. The other nice thing is you can remove them if you ever trade or sell your car and leave no evidence of them ever being there. He's a forum sponsor here too.
Last edited by joeybsyc; 12-11-2016 at 11:16 AM.
#50
Instructor
I'd recommend looking at G3 Carbon's "Street Skirts". They are even lower profile than the RPI skirts, and DO indeed prevent chips to your paint. That's what I went with on my black car, as I too would have preferred no skirts at all, but wanted some protection from rock chips. Like you, I shopped around and looked at lots of pics before deciding what to go with, and have no regrets with mdecision. I knew I didn't want the wide Z06 copies, and liked that these blend in well with the smooth lines of the Stingray while still offering protection.
These, paired with GM splash guards, and Xpel along my rockers has kept my car chip-free, and don't detract from the lines of the car. Mine are painted carbon flash, and fit up perfectly using existing hardware at the ends, and pre-applied heavy duty 3M molding tape in the center. No drilling was required and they're as rock solid as the day they were installed. The other nice thing is you can remove them if you ever trade or sell your car and leave no evidence of them ever being there. He's a forum sponsor here too.
These, paired with GM splash guards, and Xpel along my rockers has kept my car chip-free, and don't detract from the lines of the car. Mine are painted carbon flash, and fit up perfectly using existing hardware at the ends, and pre-applied heavy duty 3M molding tape in the center. No drilling was required and they're as rock solid as the day they were installed. The other nice thing is you can remove them if you ever trade or sell your car and leave no evidence of them ever being there. He's a forum sponsor here too.
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joeybsyc (12-11-2016)
#51
Drifting
No problem! Glad to help.
#52
Burning Brakes
RPI and they fit perfect. Yes I did drill but I don't have plans on taking them off and even if I did you would need a hoist to see the holes.
#53
Race Director
Member Since: Jun 2005
Location: Phila Suburbs 2023 C8 & 2013 650ix
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The "Joey's" skirts look good but I think you'll have to admit that mine follow the contours of the body more closely.
Last edited by Walt White Coupe; 12-11-2016 at 12:53 PM.
#55
Instructor
I put them on the week I bought the car a year ago and now with 8300 miles I don't have one mark in front of the rear wheels. And when I installed them I removed the "stock" film in front of the rear wheels.
The "Joey's" skirts look good but I think you'll have to admit that mine follow the contours of the body more closely.
The "Joey's" skirts look good but I think you'll have to admit that mine follow the contours of the body more closely.
#56
Race Director
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Location: Phila Suburbs 2023 C8 & 2013 650ix
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http://www.rpidesigns.com/shop/item.aspx?itemid=3204
#57
Instructor
Not sure where you are looking but you don't have to buy a "Front Splitter" with them. $629.95 Skirts only.
http://www.rpidesigns.com/shop/item.aspx?itemid=3204
http://www.rpidesigns.com/shop/item.aspx?itemid=3204
#58
Drifting
Sorry, I meant the G3 Carbon ones. http://www.g3carbon.com/product-page...c-afec4be8562a
I'm sure he'll get you fixed up with whatever you need, and give you a great deal.