How hard is it to get CF look on inside, dip or wrap??
#2
Melting Slicks
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Depends on what you mean by "better".
If money was not any consideration, then a part that is dipped, or genuine carbon fiber would be much preferred to wrapping in vinyl CF.
However, when money is important, a part that would be available to buy as a dipped part for $150, 200, even $500 can be wrapped in $10 worth of vinyl wrap, if you have the skills to make it look good. Some parts are easier to wrap than those with compound curves, etc.
If money was not any consideration, then a part that is dipped, or genuine carbon fiber would be much preferred to wrapping in vinyl CF.
However, when money is important, a part that would be available to buy as a dipped part for $150, 200, even $500 can be wrapped in $10 worth of vinyl wrap, if you have the skills to make it look good. Some parts are easier to wrap than those with compound curves, etc.
#3
some clarification, thinking of buying the stuff you can do yourself per the dipping , and yes always trying to safe a buck.lol I know chevy wants 600$$ just for the dash, im wanting to do all the pieces,hud console wheel dash . I seen it on another members car
I thought it looked very good. Thanks to all.
I thought it looked very good. Thanks to all.
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Strake (01-18-2017)
#4
Melting Slicks
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Depending on the cost of the equipment, and materials to do my own dipping, I'd be interested too. Have you found out what it takes?
#6
Le Mans Master
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St. Jude Donor '15
I was curious about it too at one point. I found this company that makes a beginner kit that's not too expensive:
http://www.mydipkit.com/index.html
It seems like it's got all the essentials to at least try it. I never got around to it because I suffer from squirrel syndrome.
http://www.mydipkit.com/index.html
It seems like it's got all the essentials to at least try it. I never got around to it because I suffer from squirrel syndrome.
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Strake (01-18-2017)
#7
Drifting
I did my dash and center counsel with 3M 1080 carbon fiber wrap and it came out fantastic. I would not, however, recommend this be your first experience working with the wrap. Try something easy like the roof panel. With all the compound angles on the dash and center counsel, it takes patience and skill to do it right. Total cost to do the dash and counsel ran about $20.
#8
Have been watching videos on the dipping doesn't look all that hard on small things
the dash might be a bit harder think im going give it some more looks .Will keep you updated . thanks all again
the dash might be a bit harder think im going give it some more looks .Will keep you updated . thanks all again
#9
I did my dash and center counsel with 3M 1080 carbon fiber wrap and it came out fantastic. I would not, however, recommend this be your first experience working with the wrap. Try something easy like the roof panel. With all the compound angles on the dash and center counsel, it takes patience and skill to do it right. Total cost to do the dash and counsel ran about $20.
#10
Drifting
Crud.........Watch EVERY YouTube video on wrapping. I started with the roof bar - it's a small section without compound angles. From there, I did the roof. It's a larger area and, other than the front, is pretty flat. After getting the hang of that, I did the stinger stripe on the hood - very easy to do. Finally, I did the dash and center counsel. Yes, at first it was a PITA. However, on my second attempt, I knew where the trouble areas were and focused my attention there. Look into a product called "knifeless tape." It makes cutting the vinyl SO nice. What I learned is a heat gun is your friend. The minute wrinkles develope, hit them with the heat gun and they magically disappear. DO NOT, DO NOT heat then stretch the vinyl. It will distort and, very likely, tear. Again, use heat to get wrinkles out early. If you wait till they a larger, you'll never get them out (the wrap can't shrink enough) and you'll have to start over.
I really like working with the 3M 1080 wrap. Using only mild heat, the wrap becomes very playable and forgiving. Also, if laid down gently, it's easy to reposition. Once it's where you want it, use a squeegee to lock it down. One other point: if air bubbles develop, simply tap them lightly, and they disappear. Do no heat the air bubbles - just tap and the're gone!
I really like working with the 3M 1080 wrap. Using only mild heat, the wrap becomes very playable and forgiving. Also, if laid down gently, it's easy to reposition. Once it's where you want it, use a squeegee to lock it down. One other point: if air bubbles develop, simply tap them lightly, and they disappear. Do no heat the air bubbles - just tap and the're gone!
Last edited by Cosmo Kramer; 01-19-2017 at 03:13 AM.
#11
I checked out that knifeless tape, that is pretty damn slick. When you say heat gun, would a hair dryer put out enough heat or would ya need a gun? Vinyl seems pretty cheap on amazon i may have to give this a try.
#12
Drifting
A hair dryer will work, but, because the temperature is easier to regulate, a heat gun works better. Use just enough heat to work the wrinkles out. Try this: Cut a block out 3"x3" and crumple it up (with the backing off) like a snowball. Now, apply just enough heat to flatten out again. You'll be amazed.
Last edited by Cosmo Kramer; 01-19-2017 at 06:43 AM.
#15
I wish I new about this product several years ago I redid the dash on my boat. Back then I bought thin Carbon Fiber laminate it was all flat panel but still hard to work will cutting the edges and holes for gauges and switches major PITA. The worst part about this is I spent hundreds of dollars on the material and within a few you it faded and they told me it's not UV rated for outdoor use. How does the wrap hold up in the sun and heat?
before piture
After
Installed
before piture
After
Installed
#16
That's a great question? How well ,long will the vinyl wrap hold up also if anyone has used the dip how does it hold up?? I was looking to do parts like paddles , volume , etc.
#17
Racer
Crud.........Watch EVERY YouTube video on wrapping. I started with the roof bar - it's a small section without compound angles. From there, I did the roof. It's a larger area and, other than the front, is pretty flat. After getting the hang of that, I did the stinger stripe on the hood - very easy to do. Finally, I did the dash and center counsel. Yes, at first it was a PITA. However, on my second attempt, I knew where the trouble areas were and focused my attention there. Look into a product called "knifeless tape." It makes cutting the vinyl SO nice. What I learned is a heat gun is your friend. The minute wrinkles develope, hit them with the heat gun and they magically disappear. DO NOT, DO NOT heat then stretch the vinyl. It will distort and, very likely, tear. Again, use heat to get wrinkles out early. If you wait till they a larger, you'll never get them out (the wrap can't shrink enough) and you'll have to start over.
I really like working with the 3M 1080 wrap. Using only mild heat, the wrap becomes very playable and forgiving. Also, if laid down gently, it's easy to reposition. Once it's where you want it, use a squeegee to lock it down. One other point: if air bubbles develop, simply tap them lightly, and they disappear. Do no heat the air bubbles - just tap and the're gone!
I really like working with the 3M 1080 wrap. Using only mild heat, the wrap becomes very playable and forgiving. Also, if laid down gently, it's easy to reposition. Once it's where you want it, use a squeegee to lock it down. One other point: if air bubbles develop, simply tap them lightly, and they disappear. Do no heat the air bubbles - just tap and the're gone!
One last tidbit, Once the vinyl is installed you will want to post heat it to about 175° to 185° this will make the vinyl forget its memory, and make it last longer. Vinyl is made out of PVC and its has a memory and wants to go back flat.
#18
Melting Slicks
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Cosmo,
Did you use : 3M 1080 CF201 ANTHRACITE, or was the color: 3M 1080 CF12 BLACK CARBON FIBER ?
Awesome job !!!!!
I bought some very inexpensive material for $5.99 for the bottom steering wheel trim and key fobs and it worked great. IF I decide to do a much more challenging piece like the center console, I want it to match the factory dash, and I think I better go for the "good stuff", 3M material. Just not sure if to go Black, or Anthracite .... can't tell by the pics on Amazon..
thanks,
Richard
Did you use : 3M 1080 CF201 ANTHRACITE, or was the color: 3M 1080 CF12 BLACK CARBON FIBER ?
Awesome job !!!!!
I bought some very inexpensive material for $5.99 for the bottom steering wheel trim and key fobs and it worked great. IF I decide to do a much more challenging piece like the center console, I want it to match the factory dash, and I think I better go for the "good stuff", 3M material. Just not sure if to go Black, or Anthracite .... can't tell by the pics on Amazon..
thanks,
Richard
Crud.........Watch EVERY YouTube video on wrapping. I started with the roof bar - it's a small section without compound angles. From there, I did the roof. It's a larger area and, other than the front, is pretty flat. After getting the hang of that, I did the stinger stripe on the hood - very easy to do. Finally, I did the dash and center counsel. Yes, at first it was a PITA. However, on my second attempt, I knew where the trouble areas were and focused my attention there. Look into a product called "knifeless tape." It makes cutting the vinyl SO nice. What I learned is a heat gun is your friend. The minute wrinkles develope, hit them with the heat gun and they magically disappear. DO NOT, DO NOT heat then stretch the vinyl. It will distort and, very likely, tear. Again, use heat to get wrinkles out early. If you wait till they a larger, you'll never get them out (the wrap can't shrink enough) and you'll have to start over.
I really like working with the 3M 1080 wrap. Using only mild heat, the wrap becomes very playable and forgiving. Also, if laid down gently, it's easy to reposition. Once it's where you want it, use a squeegee to lock it down. One other point: if air bubbles develop, simply tap them lightly, and they disappear. Do no heat the air bubbles - just tap and the're gone!
I really like working with the 3M 1080 wrap. Using only mild heat, the wrap becomes very playable and forgiving. Also, if laid down gently, it's easy to reposition. Once it's where you want it, use a squeegee to lock it down. One other point: if air bubbles develop, simply tap them lightly, and they disappear. Do no heat the air bubbles - just tap and the're gone!
#19
Damn that looks good. Would like to do something myself with the interior but I was thinking maybe carbon flash, just not sure how it would look. Anyone ever went that route on the interior.
Cmud
Cmud
#20
Great advice sir.. I would suggest trying Avery supreme wrapping 900 film though. The Avery is easier to work with then the 3M. We have moved to mostly Avery because of this at my shop. It has all the same advantages as the 3M like air release and repositionable.
One last tidbit, Once the vinyl is installed you will want to post heat it to about 175° to 185° this will make the vinyl forget its memory, and make it last longer. Vinyl is made out of PVC and its has a memory and wants to go back flat.
One last tidbit, Once the vinyl is installed you will want to post heat it to about 175° to 185° this will make the vinyl forget its memory, and make it last longer. Vinyl is made out of PVC and its has a memory and wants to go back flat.
does Avery have a good match to carbon flash metallic? So far from what I've read 3m G212 is pretty close.