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Z06 battery drain with maintainer on and new battery fobs dont work & can't start car

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Old 03-20-2017, 04:31 PM
  #21  
Frodo
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Ok, here's another SWAG. You mentioned the window worked after the new battery was replaced, but not much else worked. There are two main fuse panels, one by the battery, one up front in the engine bay. The engine bay panel is fed by a HUGE fuse, like 300 amps or something like that. Someone on here had that one blow, how I don't have any idea. The result was that systems powered by the rear fuse panel still worked but all engine management, starter, and other front mounted and served systems did not. I'm thinking this fuse must be in the rear near the battery and fuse panel mounted there. It's to protect the cable going to the front panel and also to serve power to the starter motor. Its worth checking, anyway.

BE VERY CAREFUL with this fuse!!! There's enough power fed through it to do a LOT of harm to the human body and car. DISCONNECT the battery before attempting any service to this fuse. This is serious stuff.

Last edited by Frodo; 03-20-2017 at 04:35 PM. Reason: to add warning
Old 03-20-2017, 06:39 PM
  #22  
TEXHAWK0
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Have you tried simply checking voltage at the main cable on the front fuse box? That should tell you immediately if there is a problem with the wiring.
Old 03-21-2017, 06:43 PM
  #23  
KGrant
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As previously mentioned, I appreciate everyone's input and I promised to provide an update as a learning moment in case someone else had this problem. As mentioned by "Frodo" he thought a major fuse must have blown. Keep in mind, when it was determined that the battery maintainer had failed resulting in the need to get cable jump.

In speaking with a local corvette club member, he suggested to change the positive red cable from one post to the second post immediately to the right and see if the car would start. Surprise, everything worked beautifully.

So I happened to have a oil changed schedule today and while there I asked to speak to the corvette technician and explained what happened to get his thoughts. He said more than likely, the 350a fuse was blown when the car received the cable jump which he says is when he see this fuse being blown.

By moving the cable to the secondary cable post, you bypass the blown 350a fuse that sits between the two post. The tech didn't know off hand if the 350a fuse could be replaced by itself or if the entire panel has to be replaced.

In closing, my friend will take vehicle to dealer and again I wanted to make sure I shared this information to help someone in the future. Below is the picture view of the battery in the rear hatch as a point of reference.

Thanks for everyone's troubleshooting suggestions!

Kyle






Originally Posted by Frodo
Ok, here's another SWAG. You mentioned the window worked after the new battery was replaced, but not much else worked. There are two main fuse panels, one by the battery, one up front in the engine bay. The engine bay panel is fed by a HUGE fuse, like 300 amps or something like that. Someone on here had that one blow, how I don't have any idea. The result was that systems powered by the rear fuse panel still worked but all engine management, starter, and other front mounted and served systems did not. I'm thinking this fuse must be in the rear near the battery and fuse panel mounted there. It's to protect the cable going to the front panel and also to serve power to the starter motor. Its worth checking, anyway.

BE VERY CAREFUL with this fuse!!! There's enough power fed through it to do a LOT of harm to the human body and car. DISCONNECT the battery before attempting any service to this fuse. This is serious stuff.

Last edited by KGrant; 03-21-2017 at 07:07 PM.
Old 03-21-2017, 06:54 PM
  #24  
speedlink
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Originally Posted by Zymurgy
If your friend did not plug his battery maintainer into the plug in the rear cargo area, then his maintainer did nothing. Only the plug in the rear cargo area is active at all times. The others shut off after 10 minutes.
My hunch is you nailed it!

Edit; just read the rest of the replies.

Last edited by speedlink; 03-21-2017 at 06:55 PM.
Old 03-22-2017, 12:19 PM
  #25  
TEXHAWK0
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Originally Posted by KGrant
As previously mentioned, I appreciate everyone's input and I promised to provide an update as a learning moment in case someone else had this problem. As mentioned by "Frodo" he thought a major fuse must have blown. Keep in mind, when it was determined that the battery maintainer had failed resulting in the need to get cable jump.

In speaking with a local corvette club member, he suggested to change the positive red cable from one post to the second post immediately to the right and see if the car would start. Surprise, everything worked beautifully.

So I happened to have a oil changed schedule today and while there I asked to speak to the corvette technician and explained what happened to get his thoughts. He said more than likely, the 350a fuse was blown when the car received the cable jump which he says is when he see this fuse being blown.

By moving the cable to the secondary cable post, you bypass the blown 350a fuse that sits between the two post. The tech didn't know off hand if the 350a fuse could be replaced by itself or if the entire panel has to be replaced.

In closing, my friend will take vehicle to dealer and again I wanted to make sure I shared this information to help someone in the future. Below is the picture view of the battery in the rear hatch as a point of reference.

Thanks for everyone's troubleshooting suggestions!

Kyle


This just shows how valuable a simple volt meter can be to quickly diagnose battery problems.
If you had been able to check the voltage at the original cable connection, you would have immediately seen that there was no voltage. You could have also checked across the fuse for an open circuit.



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