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Still looking for the hose part numbers. I found an old thread, but it appears this is not the right one. I see the others on the schematic, but looks like GM changed and you cannot search parts anymore unless you know the part number.
Still looking for the hose part numbers. I found an old thread, but it appears this is not the right one. I see the others on the schematic, but looks like GM changed and you cannot search parts anymore unless you know the part number.
I've looked at that too, but it looks nothing like the pigtail one going from crank to intake. The one you've attached looks more like the long one going into the air cleaner
When I went in for an oil change last year, the Corvette specialist said, "good to see you installed a catch can" and then brought over a coked up valve from a DI engine and said that, "you don't want to end up with this problem".
I also installed one on my GMC 2015 Sierra with the 6.2. This is a different dealer, and they have never said anything about the catch can at the free oil changes. I have 18k miles on it and am surprised at what I empty from it on a regular basis.
The coked up valve wasn't from a lack of a catch can. It was unburned fuel on a DI engine.
The coked up valve wasn't from a lack of a catch can. It was unburned fuel on a DI engine.
Since 2007 GM has put a couple million DI engines on the road and valve coking isn't a big deal on those engines. It seems to be a problem for VW, Audi and BMW. GM and some others aren't having issues with valve coking. It may happen on a few but not on a regular basis. Ask about V6 DI engine timing chain failures and you will get an earful though.
All it takes is one little wrench and the OEM hose. I carry both in the little storage bin in the hatch area. Takes less than ten mins to convert back to stock even stranded by the side of the road.
See, simply.
Having a hard time trying to see what hoses folks are looking for. I just took mine off my 2014 when I sold it as it's going on my Grand Sport on order.
Took 5 minutes. As you said just use ta wrench for the bolt holding the can to the ground location, the can comes off with the hoses. Then take the ~6/8" hose that you took off when it was installed the can and snap it onto the hose fittings where the can hoses came off!
Frankly if you dump "stuff" from the can every few thousand miles there is nothing that can cause an issue. I'll defend my install with GM if needed.
Here's the reason Im asking about a new tube or "hose" Jerry. I may or may not have taken the quick corrects off the factory pigtail looking tube to install on the hoses of the catch can. Hence I need a new tube as I don't want to take the quick connections off the catch can to swap back to the factory tube if needed.
Ask about V6 DI engine timing chain failures and you will get an earful though.
Bill
My 2008 Cadillac CTS had the first generation 3.6DI and it required Mobil 1 and had what to me were extremely long oil change intervals (approaching 20K by the OLM with typical driving). From the start I changed my oil and filter at 50% and then again at close to 0% and then reset the OLM for the next cycle. A couple of years into ownership a lot of timing chains were failing due to the tensioners and GM sent out a recall with new OLM calibration that greatly reduced the interval between changes. I traded mine in on my current 2014 ATS (also with the 3.6 DI) at 68K and at that point it was still on its original chain and tensioners and was providing the same MPG and performance feel as it did when new so I expect it was suffering neither from timing chain or coking issues.
I guess I am trying to outguess GM again with my 2016 Z06 with the 8L90 transmission by not allowing it to go into AFM mode which I believe is the reason for the multiple torque converter failures as the torque converter mechanical clutch is modulated to help absorb the additional vibrations resulting from V4 operation.
I hope you have very deep pockets. If you don't your defense will fail.
Logic Prevails!
Here are three reversals I have had and in two cases had the support of the Service Manager supporting me versus GM Warranty Policy! In fact I have never paid for service with more aggressive mods, like headers etc for a failure!
1) Had a clutch plate crack in my 1st new car after ~6 months. The cast iron plate was cracked in two and the clutch disk looked new as did the flywheel. BUT GM did NOT warranty clutches and the Chevy Service Manager said they would not be reimbursed. However he left the car disassembled at my request and had the district GM person who visits periodically see the situation. When he came and looked at parts agreed with me it was a defective casting! All parts and labor were covered!
2) The second was interesting and with my 260Z. It was ~ 2months after the warranty period and the dealer said he couldn't get my failed differential covered. A ring gear bolt had come loose, worked it's way out and the head sheared on the case and shot out of the rear cover, leaked all the oil.
I had purchased the Service Manual and there was an interesting statement that said "IF EXAMINING THE DIFFERENTIAL GEARS CHECK TO SEE IF THE LOCKING TABS ON THE RING GEAR BOLTS ARE PROPERLY BENT UP!"
There was no maintenance specified that required removing the differential as it was nestled into the rear frame so there was no access to the cover unless it was dropped! Obviously they must have had discovered a problem. I paid ~$900 in ~'76 bucks and asked to have the differential back. Examined the bolt that had sheared. Managed a welding materials R&D lab at the time and made some macrographs showing a very ductile failure indicating the bolt locking tabs must have not been installed properly Also made pics of the gears showing they looked new.
Wrote a report with pics and since Datsun US had rejected my claim I had a Japanese Lab Division head who was on staff write a cover page in Japanese to the President of Nissan in Japan. Told them they were lucky when it happened that it did not jam the ring and pinion or it could have caused a dangerous accident! WAS REIMBURSED IN FULL!
3) Most proud of the air conditioner condenser I had repaired free on my 2008, C6 Vette. There was a hole that caused all of the refrigerant to escape. Service Manager said GM won't cover as it was probably caused by a rock! I had been traveling 45 mph coming into town and no way did a rock cause the hole, IMO. Paid ~$800 and had it repaired and asked for the condenser back. Looked at crack with the best I had a home, a 10X magnifier. The hole was obviously caused from internal pressure with pieces bent outward. Then I noticed the condenser was bent! Took some pics (below) Went to the dealer and talked with the technician who did the work and he assured me and the Service Manager it never dropped during his removal and he had put the old one in the box the new one came in.
Wrote a short report and speculated the condenser was bent when it hit a shape object, perhaps before it was shipped to GM! That caused a defect that finally leaked! WAS REIMBURSED FOR THE FULL AMOUNT OF PARTS AND LABOR. The Service Manager was happy and smiled!
YEP I'LL TAKE MY CHANCES WITH THE CATCH CAN, CAGS ELIMINATOR AND LOW RESTRICTION AIR FILTER!
C6 Vette Condenser Obviously Bent
Did not have capability of making a 10+X Macrograph but my eye loop cearly showed from the crack shape it had failed from internal pressure in a thinned out area caused when it was dropped prior to installation at Bowling Green!
Logic Prevails!
Here are three reversals I have had and in two cases had the support of the Service Manager supporting me versus GM Warranty Policy! In fact I have never paid for service with more aggressive mods, like headers etc for a failure!
1) Had a clutch plate crack in my 1st new car after ~6 months. The cast iron plate was cracked in two and the clutch disk looked new as did the flywheel. BUT GM did NOT warranty clutches and the Chevy Service Manager said they would not be reimbursed. However he left the car disassembled at my request and had the district GM person who visits periodically see the situation. When he came and looked at parts agreed with me it was a defective casting! All parts and labor were covered!
2) The second was interesting and with my 260Z. It was ~ 2months after the warranty period and the dealer said he couldn't get my failed differential covered. A ring gear bolt had come loose, worked it's way out and the head sheared on the case and shot out of the rear cover, leaked all the oil.
I had purchased the Service Manual and there was an interesting statement that said "IF EXAMINING THE DIFFERENTIAL GEARS CHECK TO SEE IF THE LOCKING TABS ON THE RING GEAR BOLTS ARE PROPERLY BENT UP!"
There was no maintenance specified that required removing the differential as it was nestled into the rear frame so there was no access to the cover unless it was dropped! Obviously they must have had discovered a problem. I paid ~$900 in ~'76 bucks and asked to have the differential back. Examined the bolt that had sheared. Managed a welding materials R&D lab at the time and made some macrographs showing a very ductile failure indicating the bolt locking tabs must have not been installed properly Also made pics of the gears showing they looked new.
Wrote a report with pics and since Datsun US had rejected my claim I had a Japanese Lab Division head who was on staff write a cover page in Japanese to the President of Nissan in Japan. Told them they were lucky when it happened that it did not jam the ring and pinion or it could have caused a dangerous accident! WAS REIMBURSED IN FULL!
3) Most proud of the air conditioner condenser I had repaired free on my 2008, C6 Vette. There was a hole that caused all of the refrigerant to escape. Service Manager said GM won't cover as it was probably caused by a rock! I had been traveling 45 mph coming into town and no way did a rock case it IMO. Paid ~$800 and had it repaired and asked for the condenser back. Looked at crack with the best I had a home, a 10X magnifier. The hole was obviously caused from internal pressure with pieces bent outward. Then I noticed the condenser was bent! Took some pics (below) Went to the dealer and talked with the technician who did the work and he assured me and the Service Manager it never dropped during his removal and he had put the old one in the box the new one came in.
Wrote a short report and speculated the condenser was bent when it hit a shape object, perhaps before it was shipped to GM! That caused a defect that finally leaked! WAS REIMBURSED FOR THE FULL AMOUNT OF PARTS AND LABOR. The Service Manager was happy and smiled!
YEP I'LL TAKE MY CHANCES WITH THE CATCH CAN, CAGS ELIMINATOR AND LOW RESTRICTION AIR FILTER!
[
Did not have capability of making a 10+X Macrograph but my eye loop cearly showed from the crack shape it had failed from internal pressure in a thinned out area caused when it was dropped prior to installation at Bowling Green!
You do realize none of this is relevant? Do you have an example of a mod you did (that GM specifically warned against doing) that caused a failure? To be relevant, this failure must have been rejected as a warranty item and you fought and won.
^^^
First of all, Tadge in his comment on the Forum said a catch can might cause a warranty issue. Yep if you install it improperly like use a two exit can and don't put the required check valve in properly that would cause an issue. Also if you don't dump the "stuff" that accumulates every few thousand miles the can could fill up and cause a failure. That is why it should NOT be installed by anyone who doesn't even check the oil level etc periodically!
Here are his exact words in a Tadge Answers: "Catch-can" systems that do not have a drain back path for separated oil run the risk of poor oil pressure performance over time as oil is removed from the lube system." Yep if folks do to not dump the catch can every few thousand miles AND check their oil level (many folks with dry sumps apparently don't do it properly and GM probably knows many don't check it at all) then sure you'll get low oil pressure. There is NO WAY my Elite can that I dump collected stuff every couple of thousand miles, that I keep the stainless ribbon material that condenses oil vapors clean by rinsing with alcohol and in a dry sump I keep the oil level half way between Min and Max on the dip stick; is going to suffer poor oil pressure performance! Yep, guess perhaps the average car owner could! In addition if they don't change their own oil and dispose of it in an approved recycling center as I do, where will they dump that collected oil and stuff? I put mine in the 12 quart container with screw on cap and dump it when I do my ~9 quarts of replaced oil. Would others dump it down the drain? GM sure could not support that,(nor would I!)
There is no flow restriction of the crackcase gases caused by the one outlet Elite "can" I added. It operates just like the OEM PCV hose but it condenses and collects some of the oil vapor and crackcase blowby that would otherwise bake on the back of the intake valves. I'd be happy to defend that with GM.
If your not comfortable or capable of providing that argument don't add one. In fact I don't advocate anyone add one especially if they don't fully understand what the "coking" issue in DI engines is all about. I think about the clean engine internals in that Olds engine I assembled when I was 16 and the ZZ502 8.2 Liter engine I assembled for my street rod when I retired! The thought of "coked on oil residue" on my intake valves is like some folks think about finger prints on their door or hatch!To Each Their Own!
^^^
First of all, Tadge in his comment on the Forum said a catch can might cause a warranty issue. Yep if you install it improperly like use a two exit can and don't put the required check valve in properly that would cause an issue. Also if you don't dump the "stuff" that accumulates every few thousand miles the can could fill up and cause a failure. That is why it should NOT be installed by anyone who doesn't even check the oil level etc periodically!
Here are his exact words in a Tadge Answers: "Catch-can" systems that do not have a drain back path for separated oil run the risk of poor oil pressure performance over time as oil is removed from the lube system." Yep if folks do to not dump the catch can every few thousand miles AND check their oil level (many folks with dry sumps apparently don't do it properly and GM probably knows many don't check it at all) then sure you'll get low oil pressure. There is NO WAY my Elite can that I dump collected stuff every couple of thousand miles, that I keep the stainless ribbon material that condenses oil vapors clean by rinsing with alcohol and in a dry sump I keep the oil level half way between Min and Max on the dip stick; is going to suffer poor oil pressure performance! Yep, guess perhaps the average car owner could! In addition if they don't change their own oil and dispose of it in an approved recycling center as I do, where will they dump that collected oil and stuff? I put mine in the 12 quart container with screw on cap and dump it when I do my ~9 quarts of replaced oil. Would others dump it down the drain? GM sure could not support that,(nor would I!)
There is no flow restriction of the crackcase gases caused by the one outlet Elite "can" I added. It operates just like the OEM PCV hose but it condenses and collects some of the oil vapor and crackcase blowby that would otherwise bake on the back of the intake valves. I'd be happy to defend that with GM.
If your not comfortable or capable of providing that argument don't add one. In fact I don't advocate anyone add one especially if they don't fully understand what the "coking" issue in DI engines is all about. I think about the clean engine internals in that Olds engine I assembled when I was 16 and the ZZ502 8.2 Liter engine I assembled for my street rod when I retired! The thought of "coked on oil residue" on my intake valves is like some folks think about finger prints on their door or hatch!To Each Their Own!
I hear you. The thing is that they are not going to check to see if the can is "properly" installed in the event of a failure. If they can blame it on something, they will.
After 5 years of reading pro and anti catch can arguments on every forum I've been on, I think it just comes down to two groups of people.
The first group says, the engineers know best, if it needed this system, it would have been on the car from the factory.
The second group says, engineers are doing the best they can to comply with federal and state laws AND they are fully aware that most car buyers are lazy and careless. They cant be trusted to get a regular oil change, let alone to empty a catch can every thousand miles. So they do the best they can given the circumstances. So adding this extra step of a catch can and emptying it regularly will prevent even the factory "tolerable" amounts of oil from going into the intake. Just that simple.
^^^^^ I'd just add one more, the dumping of the collected "stuff" must be done in a safe ecologically approved way. Not an easy way to assure that is done with a few ounces of collected catch can oil so the car manufactures would have to take the responsibility of having customers return every few thousand miles for service if they added such a device.
The only manufacturer design I have heard about that appears to be a solution for DI engines is Toyota. They have some DI engines where they added port injection that operates periodically and cleans off the PCV residue like it did for all the treasure before DI. One poster said, port injection is actually better at controlling combustion at idle.
Since 2007 GM has put a couple million DI engines on the road and valve coking isn't a big deal on those engines. It seems to be a problem for VW, Audi and BMW. GM and some others aren't having issues with valve coking. It may happen on a few but not on a regular basis.
Bill
This synchs with my understanding. For whatever reasons, this doesn't seem to be an issue with GM as it has been elsewhere.
^^^
Ah yes, like in "My Cousin Vinny" where Joe Pesci won his legal argument by asking if the laws of physics were different in the fellows kitchen where his water boiled and cooked none instant grits in 5 minutes!
Tough crowd here. People love to beat the same old dead horse.
I did a bit of googling and found some GM part web sites that actually still let you look up parts. My car is a Z51, so this information may or may not apply for Z06 or for base without dry sump. so YRMV.
Part number 12631869 is the long hose that I had to cut to install my RX catch can. It goes to the pass side oil thingy.
And the other shorter tube is 12670909
I asked Parts Monkey what these cost - hopefully they will chime in.
^^^
Ah yes, like in "My Cousin Vinny" where Joe Pesci won his legal argument by asking if the laws of physics were different in the fellows kitchen where his water boiled and cooked none instant grits in 5 minutes!
Funny, but a bad analogy. It wouldn't be a matter of physics, but more associated with the design and operation of the stove.
My induction cooktop doesn't change the laws of physics, but it boils water faster than a gas or old-school electric cooktop.
All I know is that I heard this all the time when I owned an '07 Audi RS4, and needed a "walnut shell valve cleaning" myself at under 20K miles. I'm just never hearing about it on C7s other than people like you speculating, it's going to be a big problem.
Tough crowd here. People love to beat the same old dead horse.
I did a bit of googling and found some GM part web sites that actually still let you look up parts. My car is a Z51, so this information may or may not apply for Z06 or for base without dry sump. so YRMV.
Part number 12631869 is the long hose that I had to cut to install my RX catch can. It goes to the pass side oil thingy.
And the other shorter tube is 12670909
I asked Parts Monkey what these cost - hopefully they will chime in.
Rick from Parts Monkey replied very quickly and confirmed these are the right parts for the Z51 at least. He was cheapest as they give free shipping over $75 and it was just that. Best price I could find since all the other add on outrageous shipping charges and my local Stealership charge full retail for all parts.
03-23-2017, 01:07 PM
Having a hard time trying to see what hoses folks are looking for. I just took mine off my 2014 when I sold it as it's going on my Grand Sport on order. 
