walhan_qtr

I have everything you have except 3/5/ and 12. but I just pretend there is no issues with it LOL

garwood94

I find that at times I cannot change the radio station using the touchscreen. I have made sure the center cluster was on something else beside radio as well and the touchscreen still did not work. Seems like other times the touchscreen does work - I'm confused... Is there something I am doing that deactivates the touchscreen? Anyone have any insight on this issue?

Another issue is I have hit the rev limiter 8 or 10 times now and I have not held the throttle at WOT or anything like that - Just 3/4 pedal or so and it pops on the limiter going to 2nd and 3rd. It would seem to me the A6 shift point should prevent this from occurring. Is this common or do I need some re-programming? My car is fairly early at ~1000 if that matters...

I love the car though, and this is my 15th vette.

MitchAlsup

as much as I would like to agree with you, the fact is that the Corvette is designed for minimal problems over 10 years, and the factory does not give a hoot about what happens after 10 years.

I am still in complete agreement with you, but the fact is that the market demands loading up the car with electronics==WEIGHT--about the only thing I need is A/C, I don't even need the windows to roll down or the top to come off.

corvettecarl

This is very sad news. I have been following the C7 since it was first spied a few years back. I had previously purchased a new 2005 (Z51) and had many electrical gremlins like you folks are experiencing. I begged GM to buy it back so I could buy a new one but those pleas fell on deaf ears. I had hoped they would do a better job on the C7 but it looks like you guys/and gals got ripped off too. I was so disappointed with the 2005 I sold it at a significant loss. I have been driving Bimmers since (335 & 550) and couldn't be happier, and the dealer treats me like a human being. I have spotted a couple C7s on the road and was really getting the fever for a ragtop. I just want to thanks you guys/gals for saving me a ton of grief and regret. I reckon I will start looking again at the third model year or so.

JoesC5

Of course the do. Every single one of them. My 15 year old Mercedes(and we ALL know how crappy they are) has been in the shop once, for a battery recall when it was new and Mercedes replaced the battery. My 6 year old C6 Z06 has been in the shop once, for new axles nuts at 380 miles. Now has 28,000 miles. I did replace the heads with aftermarket heads 800 miles ago, but the original ones had not given me any trouble.
Just another two pieces of crap....correct?????

My 64 had it's 50th birthday last October. It's still running most of it's original parts like the power windows, power brakes(I did have to replace the power brake booster a couple of years ago because, after 48 years, the diaphragm finally tore) power steering(still all original). But, that damn clock that no one needs quit working around ten years ago. I ought to crush the damn car. It's nothing but problems with all those unnecessary items. The engine and automatic transmission are original, but I freshened them up around 14-15 years ago.

But, when I have to decide which car(my 56 Vette or 64 Vette or the Z06) I want to drive on a 3,400 mile trip(especially across Kansas at 105 degrees ambient), it's the new(er) Z06 with all the unneeded (LOL) bells and whistles.

leadville1

I just ordered my first Corvette, and specifically didn't buy any of the high option trims for all the electrical doo dads. I figure every system they add, adds complexity, weight and cost. One reason I am selling my M5 is it is just too complex of technology and not reliable long term.

Less is more.

Irish7777

brought my 2014 stingray- Z 51 to dealership today with 2400 miles on it. rattling sound under the hood- vibration too- started a couple days ago. Sound & vibration is getting louder & more frequent. Was told via the mechanic that he has had 2 other Z 51- stingrays in with 2-3000 miles same issues. 1 was due to torque issues and the other one was a belt issue. This is my 14 th vette and by far the most amazing one I have owned.

FlyinLow

I don't believe you will be able to turn off the horn sounding when you exit the car with the key fob and the car is running. Its to remind you that you have removed the fob. Every car I have owned with push button start is set that way and you can't turn it off (probably a DOT regulation I'm guessing). You can turn the horn off when you lock the car, but that's about it.

dkchadwick

[QUOTE=Rmd1114;1585601802]I picked up my car from Kerbeck 1 month ago. The next day, I tried to start it and it was dead. Had it jump started. Took it into Gearhart and they said everything was fine. Haven't had a problem with the battery since. I also told them of an issue with the mirrors (reverse tilt function.). They couldn't reproduce it. Since then the following issues have occurred with the car, and they were reproducible. Of course, The service dept couldn't reproduce them, except to say that I need 2 new seat switches. I have typically dealt with Porsche and BMW with my autos always with satisfaction. I'm aggravated that these issues cannot be reproduced until I pull the
Car off of the lot. Here are the current problems:


New author:
My Stingray is a 2014 with less than 1000 miles (over 200 put on by the dealership), and I'm having these same issues. Any help from others would be appreciated.

1) When car is started, it does not always start in the default “Touring” mode.

I've had the car start in one mode and shift to a different one. It usually starts in touring, but sometimes starts in Sport or (it's favorite) Track.

2) When the drive mode selector is turned to the right (from “touring” towards “track&rdquo, the modes sometimes turn the other way (towards “weather&rdquo

I have a video of this where it swings from weather to track and will not stop in between for anything, can go back and forth to either direction (over 2 minutes of video footage). It did this while I was driving on its own on a wet road, I did not touch the ****. Needless to say a Corvette in Track mode on a slick road is not exactly safe. Dealership is saying they can't replicate it so they won't fix

8) The seat preset setting buttons do not work. If button “1” or “2” is pressed, the seats move a very little bit, Other times, they seem to require two or three pushes.

Also having this issue, but it's so minor compared to the shift in modes while driving that I hadn't really thought about it.

Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated

Thanks

whalepirot

Sorry to hear of the woes.

Amen to that, as with our 745Li. Now we/re looking at $6k for valve issues, at only 90k miles! My 735iL has over 271k au natural'. Minimal sophistication is major, for reliability!

German engineering my butt! And, frankly, I haven't found Acura or BMW any more helpful than Chevy dealers, except BMWNA pressed us to buy back the first 745 w/o prompting.

The new 7er looks great on a flatbed! (Only possible with tricks, with low battery, 'cause the parking brake sets automatically and won't release w/o juice.

hrt vlv

Should I have mine built with Lucas Electronics?

Boricua7578

My 2014 Stingray with 4900 miles, since I test drove it has been drifting to the right. I understand the concept of crowning or runoff but on a flat road it is still pulling to the right. The dealer said the alignment was fine but again it still pulls. I just read another person who bought a 2014 Stingray with 5000 miles had the same issue. After the alignment being fine I was thinking it has to be a radial pull. Does anyone else have this problem?

RKCRLR

With regards to the mirror tilt issue, see my post in this thread:
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...lfunction.html

Larry/car

People who complain about the electronics, You can always purchase a 1954 MG - then you have nothing but the basics including side curtains. Thinking the dead battery has contaminated the default settings and now various problems come and go. (Computers do not like reduced voltages) I would disconnect the battery and let the car sit for about an hour before reconnecting the battery. Everything should power down and factory defaults should be the norm. Now reset all the functions to your liking.

CP

There's a setting to unlock only the driver door or both doors.

BlackRocket

Beautiful car RMD...with a great color combo!!!! No electrical issues on mine!

Johnp94

Yes, about the door unlock. Read the owners manual. You can have either one door unlock or both doors unlock with one push of unlock on the fob. You can take of this is settings.

mdiiulio