Supercharging the LT1 and Long Term Reliability
#41
Team Owner
I'm positive that I ended up with 87 even though I thought I was getting premium(and I paid for premium). I took it easy, downshifted to minimize luging the engine when going uphill, etc, and when I was down to 3/4 tank I stopped and topped off with premium. Again, when I got down to 3/4 tank, I stopped and topped off with premium. I did this several more times.
I didn't end up with a tank full of 87 because I was an idiot. Now what damage might I have done to my engine if I had a supercharger with 600whp and I started beating on it as soon I pulled out of the station. This is what GM has to contend with when designing an engine.
#42
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St. Jude Donor '14-'15
While on vacation I was driving through West Virginia on I-79 in my Z06. needed gas so I(and another Corvette) stopped at a major retailer. I filled my car with 91 octane premium(and paid the premium price) as did the C5. As soon as I pulled back on the interstate, I knew something was amiss. We were in the mountains and the car really was down on power and when I checked my instantaneous gas mileage, it had dropped off significantly as to before filling up.
I'm positive that I ended up with 87 even though I thought I was getting premium(and I paid for premium). I took it easy, downshifted to minimize luging the engine when going uphill, etc, and when I was down to 3/4 tank I stopped and topped off with premium. Again, when I got down to 3/4 tank, I stopped and topped off with premium. I did this several more times.
I didn't end up with a tank full of 87 because I was an idiot. Now what damage might I have done to my engine if I had a supercharger with 600whp and I started beating on it as soon I pulled out of the station. This is what GM has to contend with when designing an engine.
I'm positive that I ended up with 87 even though I thought I was getting premium(and I paid for premium). I took it easy, downshifted to minimize luging the engine when going uphill, etc, and when I was down to 3/4 tank I stopped and topped off with premium. Again, when I got down to 3/4 tank, I stopped and topped off with premium. I did this several more times.
I didn't end up with a tank full of 87 because I was an idiot. Now what damage might I have done to my engine if I had a supercharger with 600whp and I started beating on it as soon I pulled out of the station. This is what GM has to contend with when designing an engine.
Bad gas can, indeed, make **** hit the fan.
#43
Team Owner
I normally use only Conoco as it is a Top Tier retailer and they sell 93 octane ethanol free gas locally. If only I could pull up to any station in the US and buy it..........
#44
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St. Jude Donor '14-'15
Man, I wish we had Conoco around here. We barely have Shell. Thankfully, BP/Exxon pretty much went out of business here - still a few Mobil stations around.
QT dominates this market, and their 93 isn't terrible.
QT dominates this market, and their 93 isn't terrible.
#45
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Agree. That thread also doesn't explain that its the ROOTS based blowers that really have issues with fueling due to how the DI pump works. The Centrifugal guys are lucky that the fuel pump works with the same curve as the blowers.
GM has to look at Supercharging from the standpoint of IDIOTS. IE: people will put 87 octane in the car and try and race it on a 110 degree day. It has to ENDURE everything people can throw at it (and live past the warranty period, and beyond)
GM has to look at Supercharging from the standpoint of IDIOTS. IE: people will put 87 octane in the car and try and race it on a 110 degree day. It has to ENDURE everything people can throw at it (and live past the warranty period, and beyond)
Nailed it yet again. Fuel is 99% of the time the cause of engine failure in a boosted application.
I can't stress enough the use of a basic octane additive for pump gas cars. Not to be used for additional power, but as the safety net for poor grade fuel. Tune it without, use and abuse the car with. Especially if it is going to be road raced, then I recommend a good dose of 100 octane when your there. Can't fix that problem for $30-$50 afterwards, but you can prevent it for that.
#46
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St. Jude Donor '14-'15
Nailed it yet again. Fuel is 99% of the time the cause of engine failure.
I can't stress enough the use of a basic octane additive for pump gas cars. Not to be used for additional power, but as the safety net for poor grade fuel. Tune it without, use and abuse the car with. Especially if it is going to be road raced, then I recommend a good dose of 100 octane when your there. Can't fix that problem for $30-$50 afterwards, but you can prevent it for that.
I can't stress enough the use of a basic octane additive for pump gas cars. Not to be used for additional power, but as the safety net for poor grade fuel. Tune it without, use and abuse the car with. Especially if it is going to be road raced, then I recommend a good dose of 100 octane when your there. Can't fix that problem for $30-$50 afterwards, but you can prevent it for that.
I'm guessing Torco?
#47
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Keep in mind that gas starts to break down very quickly, so letting a car sit for a couple of months is the same as getting bad gas. It just gives that extra edge to combat that.
Last edited by DOUG @ ECS; 01-23-2014 at 05:03 PM.
#48
Team Owner
I use pure-gas.org to look for stations when I'm on vacation, in my Z06 or my supercharged Mercedes.
#49
Drifting
Thread Starter
All the gas over here has ethanol in it. How's BP gas? Around here, it's seems very good. I've been putting it in all my cars.
I'm enjoying this reading this discussion. Keep it comin' I'm learning over here
I'm enjoying this reading this discussion. Keep it comin' I'm learning over here
#50
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St. Jude Donor '14-'15
Amsoil makes one, VP just came out with one, Torco is good, any of the major brands work.
Keep in mind that gas starts to break down very quickly, so letting a car sit for a couple of months is the same as getting bad gas. It just gives that extra edge to combat that.
Keep in mind that gas starts to break down very quickly, so letting a car sit for a couple of months is the same as getting bad gas. It just gives that extra edge to combat that.
#51
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I have been told it does not work that well, but I have never personally tested it back to back like I have the three I listed, so I have nothing to back that statement like I do with the three I listed.
#52
Racer
Haha, everyone told me the opposite after shop blew up my LS2 due to poor install; i should've done a small cam. Don't let people fool you, nothing safe about adding a blower or heads or cam. It's all mods, and if you're going to do it, be prepared to pay when **** hits the fan. I don't care what shop it is, people make mistakes and installs are not always perfect. I'm the guy who always keeps his stuff relatively stock, and when I finally decide to pull the trigger on a blower the shop's poor install blew up my car. Live and you learn - it already happened to you with the cam work, the blower might be better but you're still pumping way more power through. Also, a lot of people don't always drive cars hard, they throw a blower on and just go WOT once in a blue moon. Sure, there are others who beat the snot out of them and they last a long time, but it's just a matter of time.
I have actually seen a LOT more messed up H/C installs, then blowers.
People putting in wrong push rods, not TQ'ing down things like rockers correctly, to big of cams smashing valves, etc.
Bolting on a blower, attaching a belt, and loading a tune pretty easy.
Tearing into a motor, making sure everything is right, and re-doing a massive amount of tuning.... pretty big operation.
But yes, anything that is modified can break. However working at a dealership I can tell you all day I worked around LOTS of stock stuff that was very very broken. (this year alone I did 4 motors in 6.2L Escalades that were bone stock)
All comes down to the shop doing it.... no matter what the mod.
#53
Team Owner
I have actually seen a LOT more messed up H/C installs, then blowers.
People putting in wrong push rods, not TQ'ing down things like rockers correctly, to big of cams smashing valves, etc.
Bolting on a blower, attaching a belt, and loading a tune pretty easy.
Tearing into a motor, making sure everything is right, and re-doing a massive amount of tuning.... pretty big operation.
But yes, anything that is modified can break. However working at a dealership I can tell you all day I worked around LOTS of stock stuff that was very very broken. (this year alone I did 4 motors in 6.2L Escalades that were bone stock)
All comes down to the shop doing it.... no matter what the mod.
People putting in wrong push rods, not TQ'ing down things like rockers correctly, to big of cams smashing valves, etc.
Bolting on a blower, attaching a belt, and loading a tune pretty easy.
Tearing into a motor, making sure everything is right, and re-doing a massive amount of tuning.... pretty big operation.
But yes, anything that is modified can break. However working at a dealership I can tell you all day I worked around LOTS of stock stuff that was very very broken. (this year alone I did 4 motors in 6.2L Escalades that were bone stock)
All comes down to the shop doing it.... no matter what the mod.
yet some think you can just throw a blower on an otherwise stock engine, making an additional 200 horsepower, and it won't break.
#54
My current daily driver puts out 215whp (480whp vs 265whp stock) over stock on a completely stock bottom end, stock headers, and it has not had an issue with over 1000 hard pulls on it, counting street and strip.
There will be the odd man out that breaks, but for the vast majority of cars, it's going to be long term reliable if kept in that range of reasonable output, not flirting with danger.
A car is only submitted to extra stress under WOT with a supercharger anyways. You theoretically could tune a car to 3000whp, and never break the motor if you keep your foot out of it. That's a ridiculous exaggeration, but it's true.
#55
Drifting
Thread Starter
Haha, everyone told me the opposite after shop blew up my LS2 due to poor install; i should've done a small cam. Don't let people fool you, nothing safe about adding a blower or heads or cam. It's all mods, and if you're going to do it, be prepared to pay when **** hits the fan. I don't care what shop it is, people make mistakes and installs are not always perfect. I'm the guy who always keeps his stuff relatively stock, and when I finally decide to pull the trigger on a blower the shop's poor install blew up my car. Live and you learn - it already happened to you with the cam work, the blower might be better but you're still pumping way more power through. Also, a lot of people don't always drive cars hard, they throw a blower on and just go WOT once in a blue moon. Sure, there are others who beat the snot out of them and they last a long time, but it's just a matter of time.
I guess the safest way to go is to not modify the car at all and keep stock. It's kind of like abstinence. Safe, but no fun
I have actually seen a LOT more messed up H/C installs, then blowers.
People putting in wrong push rods, not TQ'ing down things like rockers correctly, to big of cams smashing valves, etc.
Bolting on a blower, attaching a belt, and loading a tune pretty easy.
Tearing into a motor, making sure everything is right, and re-doing a massive amount of tuning.... pretty big operation.
But yes, anything that is modified can break. However working at a dealership I can tell you all day I worked around LOTS of stock stuff that was very very broken. (this year alone I did 4 motors in 6.2L Escalades that were bone stock)
All comes down to the shop doing it.... no matter what the mod.
People putting in wrong push rods, not TQ'ing down things like rockers correctly, to big of cams smashing valves, etc.
Bolting on a blower, attaching a belt, and loading a tune pretty easy.
Tearing into a motor, making sure everything is right, and re-doing a massive amount of tuning.... pretty big operation.
But yes, anything that is modified can break. However working at a dealership I can tell you all day I worked around LOTS of stock stuff that was very very broken. (this year alone I did 4 motors in 6.2L Escalades that were bone stock)
All comes down to the shop doing it.... no matter what the mod.
I had my hopes lol
#57
Nailed it yet again. Fuel is 99% of the time the cause of engine failure in a boosted application.
I can't stress enough the use of a basic octane additive for pump gas cars. Not to be used for additional power, but as the safety net for poor grade fuel. Tune it without, use and abuse the car with. Especially if it is going to be road raced, then I recommend a good dose of 100 octane when your there. Can't fix that problem for $30-$50 afterwards, but you can prevent it for that.
I can't stress enough the use of a basic octane additive for pump gas cars. Not to be used for additional power, but as the safety net for poor grade fuel. Tune it without, use and abuse the car with. Especially if it is going to be road raced, then I recommend a good dose of 100 octane when your there. Can't fix that problem for $30-$50 afterwards, but you can prevent it for that.
#59
Drifting
Thread Starter
Maybe that is good advice for aftermarket boosted cars that make more power than they should (not over engineered, but rather under-engineered), but not true for well designed boosted setups. I have been driving the **** out of my turbocharged GT-R on road racing tracks for 5 years now on nothing more than 93 octane and engine runs just as good as new, and I'm talking thousands of track miles at top end lap times. Never, ever needed to put in 100 octane or octane boosters or anything else in the tank other than 93 from whatever local fuelling stop is within a couple of miles of the track.