Ready for third set of rotors!!! I can't be the only one
02-15-2014, 07:39 PM
#21
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
[QUOTE=
I assume the C7 is your first Corvette, my comments were based around my experience with the C5 and its tendency to blow up rotors.
I have actually owned Corvettes for 47 years. Bought a 1963 coupe in !966 and still own it today. Yes I know this does not apply.
My last Corvette was a 2006 Z06 with 111,000 miles and over 100 track days. I ran several different rotors over the 7 years I owned the car, including stock ones.
I mentioned earlier that I'm not hard on brakes. I would easily get 15 track days on stock C6 Z06 rotors
I assume the C7 is your first Corvette, my comments were based around my experience with the C5 and its tendency to blow up rotors.
I have actually owned Corvettes for 47 years. Bought a 1963 coupe in !966 and still own it today. Yes I know this does not apply.
My last Corvette was a 2006 Z06 with 111,000 miles and over 100 track days. I ran several different rotors over the 7 years I owned the car, including stock ones.
I mentioned earlier that I'm not hard on brakes. I would easily get 15 track days on stock C6 Z06 rotors
02-15-2014, 07:40 PM
#22
I wonder how much of a difference these will make? I would imagine most of the brake aftermarket will be selling hat rotor combo's. Baer, Stoptech, AP, PF etc.
02-15-2014, 08:12 PM
#23
I guess this is getting added to the tab... I'm thinking this is going to be a mighty expensive track weekend...but I still can't wait to go...
02-15-2014, 08:21 PM
#24
Scraping the splitter.
02-15-2014, 08:24 PM
#25
02-15-2014, 08:33 PM
#26
Drifting
Sorry to hear you are still having brake issues.
Are you able to find the rotors in the aftermarket or are these OE replacements? Either way the price is not too bad!
Just for comparison;
When i was racing my C5Z I could get roughly 4 races out of a set of Napa rotors and Hawk 70 pads (with cooling) depending on the track...
Are you able to find the rotors in the aftermarket or are these OE replacements? Either way the price is not too bad!
Just for comparison;
When i was racing my C5Z I could get roughly 4 races out of a set of Napa rotors and Hawk 70 pads (with cooling) depending on the track...
02-15-2014, 08:46 PM
#27
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
02-15-2014, 10:20 PM
#28
Team Owner
That is a helluva lot of time to get out of them. I know stock C6 rotors you would never come close to that, more to do with the crappy caliper than the rotor.
That being said the Z06 was geared toward being a track car and more work was done on that end.
The C7 brakes may look good on paper compared to the C6 Z06 but that is usually a few stops, not heavy track time.
02-16-2014, 03:17 AM
#29
Drifting
In reading I didn't see anyone ask if you are properly bedding both the rotors and the pads with each change? If not, that could cause most of your wear.
Another issue maybe how you are running the car -- in what mode. I am not familiar with the programming on the C7s but if the nannies are on with the C6 this canals lead to a lot of wear.
Whatever you have going on is not normal especially with XP10 pads. You also need to bring your brakes up to temperature before jumping on them really hard.
--Dan
Another issue maybe how you are running the car -- in what mode. I am not familiar with the programming on the C7s but if the nannies are on with the C6 this canals lead to a lot of wear.
Whatever you have going on is not normal especially with XP10 pads. You also need to bring your brakes up to temperature before jumping on them really hard.
--Dan
02-16-2014, 07:04 PM
#30
Advanced
Three things I did with my previous Z which made a huge difference.
1. Turn off traction control. Craction control works by braking the appropriate tire which means that you're on the throttle while the car is doing the opposet fighting you.
2. Really use your cool-down lap well. Minimize the use of brakes, try to only downshift.
3. Make sure that when you part the car, you roll in slow and come to a complete stop using only the ebrake and not your pedal. Then push the car 12 inches at a time at least two times 3 min apart. Remember that your pads a very hot and they will cause uneven heat to the rotors. By moving the car, cooling to the rotors will be a little more uniform, this is critical.
Race rotors and pads are great but many times overkill. It really depends on you car setup, like suspension and the kind of tires you're using. Remember, it's all about the balance. You don't need 1000hp on run flat street tires and equally the same overkill on braking.
Good luck.
Mike
1. Turn off traction control. Craction control works by braking the appropriate tire which means that you're on the throttle while the car is doing the opposet fighting you.
2. Really use your cool-down lap well. Minimize the use of brakes, try to only downshift.
3. Make sure that when you part the car, you roll in slow and come to a complete stop using only the ebrake and not your pedal. Then push the car 12 inches at a time at least two times 3 min apart. Remember that your pads a very hot and they will cause uneven heat to the rotors. By moving the car, cooling to the rotors will be a little more uniform, this is critical.
Race rotors and pads are great but many times overkill. It really depends on you car setup, like suspension and the kind of tires you're using. Remember, it's all about the balance. You don't need 1000hp on run flat street tires and equally the same overkill on braking.
Good luck.
Mike
Last edited by Sarasota_Mike; 02-16-2014 at 07:06 PM.
02-21-2014, 09:42 PM
#31
_Sloth Whisperer_
Member Since: Jul 2008
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Three things I did with my previous Z which made a huge difference.
1. Turn off traction control. Craction control works by braking the appropriate tire which means that you're on the throttle while the car is doing the opposet fighting you.
2. Really use your cool-down lap well. Minimize the use of brakes, try to only downshift.
3. Make sure that when you part the car, you roll in slow and come to a complete stop using only the ebrake and not your pedal. Then push the car 12 inches at a time at least two times 3 min apart. Remember that your pads a very hot and they will cause uneven heat to the rotors. By moving the car, cooling to the rotors will be a little more uniform, this is critical.
Race rotors and pads are great but many times overkill. It really depends on you car setup, like suspension and the kind of tires you're using. Remember, it's all about the balance. You don't need 1000hp on run flat street tires and equally the same overkill on braking.
Good luck.
Mike
1. Turn off traction control. Craction control works by braking the appropriate tire which means that you're on the throttle while the car is doing the opposet fighting you.
2. Really use your cool-down lap well. Minimize the use of brakes, try to only downshift.
3. Make sure that when you part the car, you roll in slow and come to a complete stop using only the ebrake and not your pedal. Then push the car 12 inches at a time at least two times 3 min apart. Remember that your pads a very hot and they will cause uneven heat to the rotors. By moving the car, cooling to the rotors will be a little more uniform, this is critical.
Race rotors and pads are great but many times overkill. It really depends on you car setup, like suspension and the kind of tires you're using. Remember, it's all about the balance. You don't need 1000hp on run flat street tires and equally the same overkill on braking.
Good luck.
Mike
2. If it's a "cool down" lap, you're not going fast enough to cook pads.
3. I'm not sure how that regimen became your standard, but nobody does that. It actually kind of sounds made up. No offense.
Race rotors and pads are never, ever overkill. If you are track racing a production street car with OEM brakes that are anything less than carbon ceramic, then you are leaving a ton of lap time reduction on the table, and putting yourself, your car, your fellow racers, and your track's infrastructure in danger.
02-22-2014, 05:59 AM
#33
Three things I did with my previous Z which made a huge difference.
1. Turn off traction control. Craction control works by braking the appropriate tire which means that you're on the throttle while the car is doing the opposet fighting you.
2. Really use your cool-down lap well. Minimize the use of brakes, try to only downshift.
3. Make sure that when you part the car, you roll in slow and come to a complete stop using only the ebrake and not your pedal. Then push the car 12 inches at a time at least two times 3 min apart. Remember that your pads a very hot and they will cause uneven heat to the rotors. By moving the car, cooling to the rotors will be a little more uniform, this is critical.
Race rotors and pads are great but many times overkill. It really depends on you car setup, like suspension and the kind of tires you're using. Remember, it's all about the balance. You don't need 1000hp on run flat street tires and equally the same overkill on braking.
Good luck.
Mike
1. Turn off traction control. Craction control works by braking the appropriate tire which means that you're on the throttle while the car is doing the opposet fighting you.
2. Really use your cool-down lap well. Minimize the use of brakes, try to only downshift.
3. Make sure that when you part the car, you roll in slow and come to a complete stop using only the ebrake and not your pedal. Then push the car 12 inches at a time at least two times 3 min apart. Remember that your pads a very hot and they will cause uneven heat to the rotors. By moving the car, cooling to the rotors will be a little more uniform, this is critical.
Race rotors and pads are great but many times overkill. It really depends on you car setup, like suspension and the kind of tires you're using. Remember, it's all about the balance. You don't need 1000hp on run flat street tires and equally the same overkill on braking.
Good luck.
Mike
02-22-2014, 07:23 AM
#34
02-22-2014, 07:23 AM
#35
02-22-2014, 08:39 AM
#36
You might want to contact the team that supports the fleet at Spring Mountain. They claim to replace brakes every 2 weeks. What isn't mentioned is how many sessions that equates to and whether they are using 100% factory replacements.
They may have some suggestions.
They may have some suggestions.
02-22-2014, 09:24 AM
#37
I actually already called them, they said they are running stock brake pads and just changing the fluid. They said brakes haven't been an issue on the car for them, but that they are not doing advanced schools and are not using slicks.
They also recommended switching out to 15w50 racing oil for track duty.
They also recommended switching out to 15w50 racing oil for track duty.
02-22-2014, 11:01 AM
#38
there is a good illustration about how ineffective Z51's cooling is - vanes are straight and air gap is limited+blocked.
since Z51 calipers looks good - maybe instead of BBK the RacingBrake 2 piece rotors can be a good solution:
http://www.racingbrake.com/Two-piece...ont-p/2365.htm
i have their stuff on my other car and they're definitely good stuff.
since Z51 calipers looks good - maybe instead of BBK the RacingBrake 2 piece rotors can be a good solution:
http://www.racingbrake.com/Two-piece...ont-p/2365.htm
i have their stuff on my other car and they're definitely good stuff.
02-22-2014, 11:32 PM
#39
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They should be back to nearly normal operating temperature at that point. If you came off a 150mph oval and dropped anchor into the pits in a panic brake, then sure. Otherwise, I can't recall seeing this in any SCCA paddock or pits I've rolled into, rode into, wrenched in, or spectated at.
02-23-2014, 01:24 AM
#40
"IF" and "SHOULD" are nice.
we're talking from practice what is ACTUALLY happens on the ground.
you think all guys doing crazy stuff?
you don't have to believe it...
if your rotors don't do it - good for you. your system is probably heavy duty enough for your car/tyres/usage you put into them...
we're talking from practice what is ACTUALLY happens on the ground.
you think all guys doing crazy stuff?
you don't have to believe it...
if your rotors don't do it - good for you. your system is probably heavy duty enough for your car/tyres/usage you put into them...