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How-To: Install Short Shifter / Replace Stock Shifter
#181
No extra heat, noise or vibration with mine. I did work both rings of the MGW boot through the modified stock rubber panel. Some have not used the very top stock rubber panel with the MGW shifter, but I was able to stretch it over the gold part of the MGW for a nice tight seal. And the extra layer of rubber doesn't seem to effect the shift action at all.
HTH,
Bruce
HTH,
Bruce
#182
Burning Brakes
No extra heat, noise or vibration with mine. I did work both rings of the MGW boot through the modified stock rubber panel. Some have not used the very top stock rubber panel with the MGW shifter, but I was able to stretch it over the gold part of the MGW for a nice tight seal. And the extra layer of rubber doesn't seem to effect the shift action at all.
HTH,
Bruce
HTH,
Bruce
#183
OK - newbie here. Just picked up my new wheels on Saturday, my first Corvette. Dumb question, what does this do to warranty? Like other posts, I like this stock shifter, but sounds like this is a nice upgrade.
#184
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Location: in the country North Carolina
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Unless you have a transmission problem they won't know it. That is if you use the stock ****. I'd keep the old shifter and if you have transmission issues I'd probably re-install it. I waited until mine had enough miles on it that I knew I didn't have any shifting, jumping out of gear, etc issues before I installed mine. It's a big improvement in my opinion.
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foursail (12-07-2015)
#185
Le Mans Master
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...7-shifter.html
#186
Pro
Just spent far too many hours installing my new flat sided shifter from MGW and thought I would add a couple of notes that might help in the future. I'm a very challenged mechanic although I do have a fairly good supply of tools and I tend to have a lack of patience with my self doing things I really ought to let the professionals do. SO,
~ the shift rod bushings come already lubed - no need to look for Super Lube as seen in the vids
~ there is a video on how to modify the shift boot (on a Camero) to attach to the flat sided shifter - it shows you removing the leather boot from the console. There is no need to do this. Push the boot thru the console so you have access to the chrome ring from the inside. Remove the rubber O ring and a couple of staples and the ring comes off - no glue holding it in place. Push the new ring thru from the other side putting the gloss side up and attach the zip tie and then push the boot back thru the console - done
~ take a picture of the wire loom in the tunnel before detaching all the connectors. I didn't do this and had to remove the base plastic channel with the 6 nuts 3 times before I got it right
~ have band aids and antiseptic handy - I bled like a stuck pig doing this project
Hardest things for me:
~ removing the wire connectors! What a pain - my fingers are lacerated
~ installing the boot cover over (under?) the new shifter
End results look great, looking forward to the temps going into the 50s this week so I can test it out. Praying I did it right and can get it into all gears!
Thanks for all the hints and directions posted here .... hope mine help anyone planing on doing this who might lack confidence like me - it CAN be done!
~ the shift rod bushings come already lubed - no need to look for Super Lube as seen in the vids
~ there is a video on how to modify the shift boot (on a Camero) to attach to the flat sided shifter - it shows you removing the leather boot from the console. There is no need to do this. Push the boot thru the console so you have access to the chrome ring from the inside. Remove the rubber O ring and a couple of staples and the ring comes off - no glue holding it in place. Push the new ring thru from the other side putting the gloss side up and attach the zip tie and then push the boot back thru the console - done
~ take a picture of the wire loom in the tunnel before detaching all the connectors. I didn't do this and had to remove the base plastic channel with the 6 nuts 3 times before I got it right
~ have band aids and antiseptic handy - I bled like a stuck pig doing this project
Hardest things for me:
~ removing the wire connectors! What a pain - my fingers are lacerated
~ installing the boot cover over (under?) the new shifter
End results look great, looking forward to the temps going into the 50s this week so I can test it out. Praying I did it right and can get it into all gears!
Thanks for all the hints and directions posted here .... hope mine help anyone planing on doing this who might lack confidence like me - it CAN be done!
#187
Safety Car
Just spent far too many hours installing my new flat sided shifter from MGW and thought I would add a couple of notes that might help in the future. I'm a very challenged mechanic although I do have a fairly good supply of tools and I tend to have a lack of patience with my self doing things I really ought to let the professionals do. SO,
~ the shift rod bushings come already lubed - no need to look for Super Lube as seen in the vids
~ there is a video on how to modify the shift boot (on a Camero) to attach to the flat sided shifter - it shows you removing the leather boot from the console. There is no need to do this. Push the boot thru the console so you have access to the chrome ring from the inside. Remove the rubber O ring and a couple of staples and the ring comes off - no glue holding it in place. Push the new ring thru from the other side putting the gloss side up and attach the zip tie and then push the boot back thru the console - done
~ take a picture of the wire loom in the tunnel before detaching all the connectors. I didn't do this and had to remove the base plastic channel with the 6 nuts 3 times before I got it right
~ have band aids and antiseptic handy - I bled like a stuck pig doing this project
Hardest things for me:
~ removing the wire connectors! What a pain - my fingers are lacerated
~ installing the boot cover over (under?) the new shifter
End results look great, looking forward to the temps going into the 50s this week so I can test it out. Praying I did it right and can get it into all gears!
Thanks for all the hints and directions posted here .... hope mine help anyone planing on doing this who might lack confidence like me - it CAN be done!
~ the shift rod bushings come already lubed - no need to look for Super Lube as seen in the vids
~ there is a video on how to modify the shift boot (on a Camero) to attach to the flat sided shifter - it shows you removing the leather boot from the console. There is no need to do this. Push the boot thru the console so you have access to the chrome ring from the inside. Remove the rubber O ring and a couple of staples and the ring comes off - no glue holding it in place. Push the new ring thru from the other side putting the gloss side up and attach the zip tie and then push the boot back thru the console - done
~ take a picture of the wire loom in the tunnel before detaching all the connectors. I didn't do this and had to remove the base plastic channel with the 6 nuts 3 times before I got it right
~ have band aids and antiseptic handy - I bled like a stuck pig doing this project
Hardest things for me:
~ removing the wire connectors! What a pain - my fingers are lacerated
~ installing the boot cover over (under?) the new shifter
End results look great, looking forward to the temps going into the 50s this week so I can test it out. Praying I did it right and can get it into all gears!
Thanks for all the hints and directions posted here .... hope mine help anyone planing on doing this who might lack confidence like me - it CAN be done!
Glad I did.
#188
Safety Car
Member Since: Sep 2014
Location: in the country North Carolina
Posts: 4,248
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Just spent far too many hours installing my new flat sided shifter from MGW and thought I would add a couple of notes that might help in the future. I'm a very challenged mechanic although I do have a fairly good supply of tools and I tend to have a lack of patience with my self doing things I really ought to let the professionals do. SO,
~ the shift rod bushings come already lubed - no need to look for Super Lube as seen in the vids
~ there is a video on how to modify the shift boot (on a Camero) to attach to the flat sided shifter - it shows you removing the leather boot from the console. There is no need to do this. Push the boot thru the console so you have access to the chrome ring from the inside. Remove the rubber O ring and a couple of staples and the ring comes off - no glue holding it in place. Push the new ring thru from the other side putting the gloss side up and attach the zip tie and then push the boot back thru the console - done
~ take a picture of the wire loom in the tunnel before detaching all the connectors. I didn't do this and had to remove the base plastic channel with the 6 nuts 3 times before I got it right
~ have band aids and antiseptic handy - I bled like a stuck pig doing this project
Hardest things for me:
~ removing the wire connectors! What a pain - my fingers are lacerated
~ installing the boot cover over (under?) the new shifter
End results look great, looking forward to the temps going into the 50s this week so I can test it out. Praying I did it right and can get it into all gears!
Thanks for all the hints and directions posted here .... hope mine help anyone planing on doing this who might lack confidence like me - it CAN be done!
~ the shift rod bushings come already lubed - no need to look for Super Lube as seen in the vids
~ there is a video on how to modify the shift boot (on a Camero) to attach to the flat sided shifter - it shows you removing the leather boot from the console. There is no need to do this. Push the boot thru the console so you have access to the chrome ring from the inside. Remove the rubber O ring and a couple of staples and the ring comes off - no glue holding it in place. Push the new ring thru from the other side putting the gloss side up and attach the zip tie and then push the boot back thru the console - done
~ take a picture of the wire loom in the tunnel before detaching all the connectors. I didn't do this and had to remove the base plastic channel with the 6 nuts 3 times before I got it right
~ have band aids and antiseptic handy - I bled like a stuck pig doing this project
Hardest things for me:
~ removing the wire connectors! What a pain - my fingers are lacerated
~ installing the boot cover over (under?) the new shifter
End results look great, looking forward to the temps going into the 50s this week so I can test it out. Praying I did it right and can get it into all gears!
Thanks for all the hints and directions posted here .... hope mine help anyone planing on doing this who might lack confidence like me - it CAN be done!
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RipcordZ51 (02-01-2016)
#189
Pro
Thanks for the words of encouragement! Got up to 50 degrees this afternoon so took a test drive. All gears work and I love the new click, click, click up and down the gears - great performance upgrade. Now - I am a little bit worried - my engine warning light is displaying - could this be co-incidental? I parked it in late October (15) in my garage after filling it with clean gas and the recommended dose of Stabil. Has not been started since then until today. It's on the Corvette battery charger thru the charging port in the trunk. Only went for a quick 4 mile run as our roads still have sand and salt. Wondering if the light will go off after I run it 50+ miles come Spring? Thoughts? Everything else works fine so I hope I didn't screw something up! Thanks.
#190
Safety Car
Member Since: Sep 2014
Location: in the country North Carolina
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There is a scan tool, OBDLink MX Bluetooth Scan Tool, that works great with android phones that will tell you what the code is. The tool is on sale for 79.99 now and it's a great tool for checking for codes and then resetting the ecm. I doubt it's anything you did but if it were me I'd get the tool and check. The only thing I can think of that might have happened is a wire didn't get reconnected or wasn't reconnect correctly. I'd get the tool even if I pulled the console and found a disconnected wire. It will give you a good idea where to look for problems. The code may go away on it's own but I'd still want to know what it was. My car had a couple of codes pop up but I don't remember what they were now but with the tool I realized that it was nothing to worry about.
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RipcordZ51 (02-01-2016)
#191
Pro
Just to follow-up - I bought the scan tool which shows a trouble code of P159F. This is defined as "fuel economy mode switch low voltage". Unless anyone has other ideas, I guess I messed up in there and have to take it apart again and check the switches. Thoughts?
#192
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Member Since: Sep 2014
Location: in the country North Carolina
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I'd clear the code with the tool first and see if it comes back. I don't have a diagram so I'm not sure where the wiring goes that would affect that. Does everything work, like ptm, driving modes etc? Good luck
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RipcordZ51 (02-03-2016)
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RipcordZ51 (02-03-2016)
#195
Pro
I'm getting very good at pulling the console off - that's for sure! Did not find any wires un-connected and although the plug to the driving style **** was clicked in, I was able to push it in further. Restarted the car and no codes. Not sure since I cleared the code before if it's fixed or not but driving modes all work so I'm calling it "fixed"!
#196
Safety Car
I did the MGW about a year ago. Very happy with this mod. I used the alignment tool but now my car will sometimes rev match for now reason. I put the clutch in to stop and the engine will rev. This is the 3rd MGW I have installed and am sure I installed per the video. Seems like a hall effect issue.
Does anyone have an idea of what might be causing it?
Does anyone have an idea of what might be causing it?
#197
Safety Car
Member Since: Sep 2014
Location: in the country North Carolina
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I did the MGW about a year ago. Very happy with this mod. I used the alignment tool but now my car will sometimes rev match for now reason. I put the clutch in to stop and the engine will rev. This is the 3rd MGW I have installed and am sure I installed per the video. Seems like a hall effect issue.
Does anyone have an idea of what might be causing it?
Does anyone have an idea of what might be causing it?
#198
Burning Brakes
Member Since: Jan 2015
Location: Garnet Valley PA-Pennsylvania
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I agree. I don't think it has anything to do with the shifter. I also have the MGW. If it were me I would not remove it as the issue is most likely noting to do with the shifter.
I would think rev match needs to know clutching and shift position to know what to do. Shift position has to be detected at the trans, either inside or on a module mounted externally. The trans is mounted to the rear axle. The shift rod that you connect the shifter to has no sensors up there at the shifter. The MGW shifter does the same thing that the stock shifter does , only has more precise detents.
I have read that rev match also looks at clutch position so there may be an issue there.
I would think it's a simple adjustment or part replacement.
I would think rev match needs to know clutching and shift position to know what to do. Shift position has to be detected at the trans, either inside or on a module mounted externally. The trans is mounted to the rear axle. The shift rod that you connect the shifter to has no sensors up there at the shifter. The MGW shifter does the same thing that the stock shifter does , only has more precise detents.
I have read that rev match also looks at clutch position so there may be an issue there.
I would think it's a simple adjustment or part replacement.
Last edited by hootowlc7; 02-07-2016 at 10:19 AM.
#199
Le Mans Master
I got the same code when doing my shifter work. It's because the drive mode selector **** was unplugged and either the ignition was on or the ECU was checking for some reason. This happened 1 of the 2 times I was in there so it seems to be hit or miss. I cleared the code with my Diablo handheld and all has been well since!
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RipcordZ51 (02-11-2016)