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Old 02-19-2015, 01:49 PM
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How-To: Bleed Brake System / Change Brake Fluid (Manual & Pressure) + Specs

Old 06-10-2015, 05:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Jedi-Jurist
Thanks for that summary! Two questions: according to this video, you don't use the brake pedal at all when using the pressure bleeder. Anyone know what method is correct? Does also using the pedal just make it go faster? Also, the PSI looks really high compared to what I've seen (between 9 and 15 psi).

https://youtu.be/04DZuyzAQDQ
You don't need to use the brake pedal. That's why you got the pressure bleeder! I use 20psi and it is enough to push it through quite quickly.
Old 06-11-2015, 02:07 PM
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My question concerns something mentioned in that video but not addressed anywhere else that I can find - the two bleed valves per wheel. Do they both need to be bled? And if so, does it matter which is done first at each wheel?


Last edited by Jet Vet; 06-11-2015 at 02:22 PM.
Old 06-11-2015, 03:51 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Jet Vet
My question concerns something mentioned in that video but not addressed anywhere else that I can find - the two bleed valves per wheel. Do they both need to be bled? And if so, does it matter which is done first at each wheel?

ECS Tuning: How To Bleed Your Brakes - YouTube
Yes, they both must be bled. See my post here for confirmation of which to do first:

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...post1589570315
Old 06-11-2015, 07:34 PM
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Originally Posted by CeeSeven
You don't need to use the brake pedal. That's why you got the pressure bleeder! I use 20psi and it is enough to push it through quite quickly.
That's what I thought. The original post I quoted from had both pressure and pedal in it (see the bold I had added).
Old 06-29-2015, 03:32 PM
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Few questions, what do I need to do prior to removing the calipers from the car for powdercoating?? For some reason I thought one needed to bleed the fluid from the system first to be able to remove the calipers? Is this wrong? Will I simply need to disconnect the brake lines at the calipers with fluid in the system? How will I preve t it from running out? Will it not leak? Does the lines need to be capped off??

Then, if I want to do a full flush to have new fluid, will I simply bleed th system until new clean fluid comes out from each caliper/ bleeder?? How much fluid will I need? What's a good brand to use??
Old 07-09-2015, 04:59 PM
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What scan tools will let you do an ABS automated bleed?
Old 07-09-2015, 06:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Jedi-Jurist
What scan tools will let you do an ABS automated bleed?
GM MDI or J2534 + GDS2 platform or quick-subscription.

The Innova 3160 may work, but remember that the C7 began the Global Platform Initiative which phased out the Tech2 and those basic commands. Therefore, other tools based on this may not function properly for the C7.

Might be worth a shot, though. Otherwise, cheapest 'official' way is a Mongoose GM Pro ($500) and a quick-subscription to GDS2 ($50).
Old 10-07-2015, 10:38 AM
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So, what I'm getting from this is, if your a do-it-at-home type with minimal equipment (i.e. no ABS Scan tool) let the professionals do the first change due to the ABS flush?

Great write-up and helpful responses!!!
Old 10-07-2015, 11:30 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Theta
GM MDI or J2534 + GDS2 platform or quick-subscription.

The Innova 3160 may work, but remember that the C7 began the Global Platform Initiative which phased out the Tech2 and those basic commands. Therefore, other tools based on this may not function properly for the C7.

Might be worth a shot, though. Otherwise, cheapest 'official' way is a Mongoose GM Pro ($500) and a quick-subscription to GDS2 ($50).
AutoEnginuity is also a nice setup that's affordable for most.

https://www.autoenginuity.com/
Old 10-07-2015, 02:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Emmdmd
So, what I'm getting from this is, if your a do-it-at-home type with minimal equipment (i.e. no ABS Scan tool) let the professionals do the first change due to the ABS flush?

Great write-up and helpful responses!!!
I have replaced the brake fluid on multiple cars by either using a pressure/vacuum method, or currently my wife's right foot, and have never cycled the ABS during the flush. Never had an issue.

Bish
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Old 07-12-2016, 12:37 PM
  #31  
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Default How-To Tuesday

Good stuff, perfect for How-To Tuesday... https://www.corvetteforum.com/articl...nge-the-fluid/
Old 07-13-2016, 09:39 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by NVaughn
Good stuff, perfect for How-To Tuesday... https://www.corvetteforum.com/articl...nge-the-fluid/
I read through this article last night, and it says it is for the C6 and C7. When it gives the order of calipers to bleed it states to do right-rear, left-front, left-rear, right-front.

This thread, in post #2, gives the order as right-rear, left-rear, right-front, left-front. This is what I am used to seeing, furthest from master cylinder to closest.

When I clicked on one of the links at the end of the article, it sends you to a C6 thread, where they discuss that in 2001 the corvette changed from a traditional front/rear dual circuit, to a dual diagonal circuit with the RR and LF on the same circuit and LR and RF on the same circuit.

Is the C7 no longer dual diagonal circuit as this article suggests, or front/rear dual circuit as post #2 suggests?

I have never bled brakes, but have been researching in preparation for track events. This article was the first I ever heard of a dual diagonal circuit, so now I am confused!

Thanks.
Old 04-14-2017, 09:44 AM
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Originally Posted by 08G8V8
I read through this article last night, and it says it is for the C6 and C7. When it gives the order of calipers to bleed it states to do right-rear, left-front, left-rear, right-front.

This thread, in post #2, gives the order as right-rear, left-rear, right-front, left-front. This is what I am used to seeing, furthest from master cylinder to closest.

When I clicked on one of the links at the end of the article, it sends you to a C6 thread, where they discuss that in 2001 the corvette changed from a traditional front/rear dual circuit, to a dual diagonal circuit with the RR and LF on the same circuit and LR and RF on the same circuit.

Is the C7 no longer dual diagonal circuit as this article suggests, or front/rear dual circuit as post #2 suggests?

I have never bled brakes, but have been researching in preparation for track events. This article was the first I ever heard of a dual diagonal circuit, so now I am confused!

Thanks.

Bump.....anybody have an answer to this? Thanks
Old 04-19-2017, 08:37 AM
  #34  
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Default Power Bled brakes and now the pedal goes to the floor

Originally Posted by Theta
Pressure Bleeding:







I"m getting ready for some track days so I used a power bleeder and put new castrol srf fluid in C7 Z51. This is the second brake fluid exchange I've done on this car. After a full bleed on all four wheels and topping off the system, my brake pedal goes to the floor. I can't get the pedal height to come up. The fluid level is correct in the master cylinder and there are no leaks.

Any ideas? Does this mean that I need to have the ABS unit bled using a scan tool? Should I try bleeding the brakes a 2nd time?

Last edited by tiborrules; 04-19-2017 at 08:41 AM. Reason: listed wrong brake fluid name
Old 04-23-2017, 05:28 PM
  #35  
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Old 04-30-2017, 10:10 AM
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Couple tidbits.. [full disclosure - I used to bleed brakes A LOT on my c5 z06, but havent on my c7 yet]

With the motive bleeder (Which is well worth the money if you're planning on doing brakes a lot-get one of their catch bottles too), you do not touch the brake pedal at all. First empty the reservoir out of old fluid with a large syringe/turkey baster. Add fresh stuff up near the top and put the motive cap on, and fill the motive bottle with fresh fluid. Give the reservoir a few taps to make sure you don't suck in air because you've emptied all the old stuff out and you may have a lingering air bubble at the reservoir outlet tube.

When bleeding, get a soft rubber mallet and as the fluid is coming out, tap the lines, and caliper in different areas. You will be surprised how many bubbles and dark colored bits get dislodged.

The other thing I used to do was after a good bleed, I would drive the car and do a couple ABS-inducing stops. This will help get the newer stuff into the ABS system.

BTW, is modern brake fluid still that paint-corrosive? I think I read somewhere its not as bad as it used to be. I've bled with the wheels on before, threw an old towel around there for protection, but I never drip from the nipple anyway, the Motive catch bottle works great.

Last edited by Subw00er; 04-30-2017 at 10:13 AM.
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Old 05-01-2017, 12:08 AM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by tiborrules
I"m getting ready for some track days so I used a power bleeder and put new castrol srf fluid in C7 Z51. This is the second brake fluid exchange I've done on this car. After a full bleed on all four wheels and topping off the system, my brake pedal goes to the floor. I can't get the pedal height to come up. The fluid level is correct in the master cylinder and there are no leaks.

Any ideas? Does this mean that I need to have the ABS unit bled using a scan tool? Should I try bleeding the brakes a 2nd time?
I would definitely try bleeding again first to see what happens, but if no air shows up you more than likely induced air into the ABS unit somehow and will need to have the master cylinder and ABS units bled.

JV

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To How-To: Bleed Brake System / Change Brake Fluid (Manual & Pressure) + Specs

Old 05-01-2017, 12:17 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by Subw00er
Couple tidbits.. [full disclosure - I used to bleed brakes A LOT on my c5 z06, but havent on my c7 yet]

With the motive bleeder (Which is well worth the money if you're planning on doing brakes a lot-get one of their catch bottles too), you do not touch the brake pedal at all. First empty the reservoir out of old fluid with a large syringe/turkey baster. Add fresh stuff up near the top and put the motive cap on, and fill the motive bottle with fresh fluid. Give the reservoir a few taps to make sure you don't suck in air because you've emptied all the old stuff out and you may have a lingering air bubble at the reservoir outlet tube.

When bleeding, get a soft rubber mallet and as the fluid is coming out, tap the lines, and caliper in different areas. You will be surprised how many bubbles and dark colored bits get dislodged.

The other thing I used to do was after a good bleed, I would drive the car and do a couple ABS-inducing stops. This will help get the newer stuff into the ABS system.

BTW, is modern brake fluid still that paint-corrosive? I think I read somewhere its not as bad as it used to be. I've bled with the wheels on before, threw an old towel around there for protection, but I never drip from the nipple anyway, the Motive catch bottle works great.
I track my '15 Z51 regularly and have bled and flushed the system many times. I agree wholeheartedly on the Motive bleeder, its a lifesaver when doing a complete flush. If I'm only doing a periodic bleed, however, I sometimes just do it the old fashioned way with a friend operating the pedal because the Motive set-up requires at least a full pint of fluid to prime the system, leading to waste when removing it.

I hadn't heard the tip about tapping the caliper with a mallet, but it sounds very logical and I'll definitely give it a try.

I have gotten at least a little brake fluid on my calipers several times while doing overhauls and other in-depth maintenance, and I haven't seen any paint corrosion yet on my red calipers, so you may be right about advances in that regard.

JV

Last edited by Jet Vet; 05-01-2017 at 12:19 AM.
Old 05-01-2017, 09:20 AM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by Subw00er
Couple tidbits.. [full disclosure - I used to bleed brakes A LOT on my c5 z06, but havent on my c7 yet]

With the motive bleeder (Which is well worth the money if you're planning on doing brakes a lot-get one of their catch bottles too), you do not touch the brake pedal at all. First empty the reservoir out of old fluid with a large syringe/turkey baster. Add fresh stuff up near the top and put the motive cap on, and fill the motive bottle with fresh fluid. Give the reservoir a few taps to make sure you don't suck in air because you've emptied all the old stuff out and you may have a lingering air bubble at the reservoir outlet tube.

When bleeding, get a soft rubber mallet and as the fluid is coming out, tap the lines, and caliper in different areas. You will be surprised how many bubbles and dark colored bits get dislodged.

The other thing I used to do was after a good bleed, I would drive the car and do a couple ABS-inducing stops. This will help get the newer stuff into the ABS system.

BTW, is modern brake fluid still that paint-corrosive? I think I read somewhere its not as bad as it used to be. I've bled with the wheels on before, threw an old towel around there for protection, but I never drip from the nipple anyway, the Motive catch bottle works great.
Thanks! I bled the brakes again and was surprised that there was air in the system. After the bleed I have good pedal height again. Next time I will try your hammer method.
Old 05-10-2017, 09:51 PM
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Does anyone have the part number for the C7 Z51 brake bleeder valves?

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