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How-To: Bleed Brake System / Change Brake Fluid (Manual & Pressure) + Specs
#21
Thanks for that summary! Two questions: according to this video, you don't use the brake pedal at all when using the pressure bleeder. Anyone know what method is correct? Does also using the pedal just make it go faster? Also, the PSI looks really high compared to what I've seen (between 9 and 15 psi).
https://youtu.be/04DZuyzAQDQ
https://youtu.be/04DZuyzAQDQ
#22
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St. Jude Donor '15-'16
My question concerns something mentioned in that video but not addressed anywhere else that I can find - the two bleed valves per wheel. Do they both need to be bled? And if so, does it matter which is done first at each wheel?
Last edited by Jet Vet; 06-11-2015 at 02:22 PM.
#23
I'm Batman..
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Tech Contributor
My question concerns something mentioned in that video but not addressed anywhere else that I can find - the two bleed valves per wheel. Do they both need to be bled? And if so, does it matter which is done first at each wheel?
ECS Tuning: How To Bleed Your Brakes - YouTube
ECS Tuning: How To Bleed Your Brakes - YouTube
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...post1589570315
#24
#25
Burning Brakes
Few questions, what do I need to do prior to removing the calipers from the car for powdercoating?? For some reason I thought one needed to bleed the fluid from the system first to be able to remove the calipers? Is this wrong? Will I simply need to disconnect the brake lines at the calipers with fluid in the system? How will I preve t it from running out? Will it not leak? Does the lines need to be capped off??
Then, if I want to do a full flush to have new fluid, will I simply bleed th system until new clean fluid comes out from each caliper/ bleeder?? How much fluid will I need? What's a good brand to use??
Then, if I want to do a full flush to have new fluid, will I simply bleed th system until new clean fluid comes out from each caliper/ bleeder?? How much fluid will I need? What's a good brand to use??
#26
What scan tools will let you do an ABS automated bleed?
#27
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St. Jude Donor '14-'15
GM MDI or J2534 + GDS2 platform or quick-subscription.
The Innova 3160 may work, but remember that the C7 began the Global Platform Initiative which phased out the Tech2 and those basic commands. Therefore, other tools based on this may not function properly for the C7.
Might be worth a shot, though. Otherwise, cheapest 'official' way is a Mongoose GM Pro ($500) and a quick-subscription to GDS2 ($50).
The Innova 3160 may work, but remember that the C7 began the Global Platform Initiative which phased out the Tech2 and those basic commands. Therefore, other tools based on this may not function properly for the C7.
Might be worth a shot, though. Otherwise, cheapest 'official' way is a Mongoose GM Pro ($500) and a quick-subscription to GDS2 ($50).
#28
Instructor
So, what I'm getting from this is, if your a do-it-at-home type with minimal equipment (i.e. no ABS Scan tool) let the professionals do the first change due to the ABS flush?
Great write-up and helpful responses!!!
Great write-up and helpful responses!!!
#29
Racer
GM MDI or J2534 + GDS2 platform or quick-subscription.
The Innova 3160 may work, but remember that the C7 began the Global Platform Initiative which phased out the Tech2 and those basic commands. Therefore, other tools based on this may not function properly for the C7.
Might be worth a shot, though. Otherwise, cheapest 'official' way is a Mongoose GM Pro ($500) and a quick-subscription to GDS2 ($50).
The Innova 3160 may work, but remember that the C7 began the Global Platform Initiative which phased out the Tech2 and those basic commands. Therefore, other tools based on this may not function properly for the C7.
Might be worth a shot, though. Otherwise, cheapest 'official' way is a Mongoose GM Pro ($500) and a quick-subscription to GDS2 ($50).
https://www.autoenginuity.com/
#30
Melting Slicks
Bish
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Emmdmd (10-07-2015)
#31
How-To Tuesday
Good stuff, perfect for How-To Tuesday... https://www.corvetteforum.com/articl...nge-the-fluid/
#32
Racer
Good stuff, perfect for How-To Tuesday... https://www.corvetteforum.com/articl...nge-the-fluid/
This thread, in post #2, gives the order as right-rear, left-rear, right-front, left-front. This is what I am used to seeing, furthest from master cylinder to closest.
When I clicked on one of the links at the end of the article, it sends you to a C6 thread, where they discuss that in 2001 the corvette changed from a traditional front/rear dual circuit, to a dual diagonal circuit with the RR and LF on the same circuit and LR and RF on the same circuit.
Is the C7 no longer dual diagonal circuit as this article suggests, or front/rear dual circuit as post #2 suggests?
I have never bled brakes, but have been researching in preparation for track events. This article was the first I ever heard of a dual diagonal circuit, so now I am confused!
Thanks.
#33
Racer
I read through this article last night, and it says it is for the C6 and C7. When it gives the order of calipers to bleed it states to do right-rear, left-front, left-rear, right-front.
This thread, in post #2, gives the order as right-rear, left-rear, right-front, left-front. This is what I am used to seeing, furthest from master cylinder to closest.
When I clicked on one of the links at the end of the article, it sends you to a C6 thread, where they discuss that in 2001 the corvette changed from a traditional front/rear dual circuit, to a dual diagonal circuit with the RR and LF on the same circuit and LR and RF on the same circuit.
Is the C7 no longer dual diagonal circuit as this article suggests, or front/rear dual circuit as post #2 suggests?
I have never bled brakes, but have been researching in preparation for track events. This article was the first I ever heard of a dual diagonal circuit, so now I am confused!
Thanks.
This thread, in post #2, gives the order as right-rear, left-rear, right-front, left-front. This is what I am used to seeing, furthest from master cylinder to closest.
When I clicked on one of the links at the end of the article, it sends you to a C6 thread, where they discuss that in 2001 the corvette changed from a traditional front/rear dual circuit, to a dual diagonal circuit with the RR and LF on the same circuit and LR and RF on the same circuit.
Is the C7 no longer dual diagonal circuit as this article suggests, or front/rear dual circuit as post #2 suggests?
I have never bled brakes, but have been researching in preparation for track events. This article was the first I ever heard of a dual diagonal circuit, so now I am confused!
Thanks.
Bump.....anybody have an answer to this? Thanks
#34
Racer
Power Bled brakes and now the pedal goes to the floor
I"m getting ready for some track days so I used a power bleeder and put new castrol srf fluid in C7 Z51. This is the second brake fluid exchange I've done on this car. After a full bleed on all four wheels and topping off the system, my brake pedal goes to the floor. I can't get the pedal height to come up. The fluid level is correct in the master cylinder and there are no leaks.
Any ideas? Does this mean that I need to have the ABS unit bled using a scan tool? Should I try bleeding the brakes a 2nd time?
Any ideas? Does this mean that I need to have the ABS unit bled using a scan tool? Should I try bleeding the brakes a 2nd time?
Last edited by tiborrules; 04-19-2017 at 08:41 AM. Reason: listed wrong brake fluid name
#36
Couple tidbits.. [full disclosure - I used to bleed brakes A LOT on my c5 z06, but havent on my c7 yet]
With the motive bleeder (Which is well worth the money if you're planning on doing brakes a lot-get one of their catch bottles too), you do not touch the brake pedal at all. First empty the reservoir out of old fluid with a large syringe/turkey baster. Add fresh stuff up near the top and put the motive cap on, and fill the motive bottle with fresh fluid. Give the reservoir a few taps to make sure you don't suck in air because you've emptied all the old stuff out and you may have a lingering air bubble at the reservoir outlet tube.
When bleeding, get a soft rubber mallet and as the fluid is coming out, tap the lines, and caliper in different areas. You will be surprised how many bubbles and dark colored bits get dislodged.
The other thing I used to do was after a good bleed, I would drive the car and do a couple ABS-inducing stops. This will help get the newer stuff into the ABS system.
BTW, is modern brake fluid still that paint-corrosive? I think I read somewhere its not as bad as it used to be. I've bled with the wheels on before, threw an old towel around there for protection, but I never drip from the nipple anyway, the Motive catch bottle works great.
With the motive bleeder (Which is well worth the money if you're planning on doing brakes a lot-get one of their catch bottles too), you do not touch the brake pedal at all. First empty the reservoir out of old fluid with a large syringe/turkey baster. Add fresh stuff up near the top and put the motive cap on, and fill the motive bottle with fresh fluid. Give the reservoir a few taps to make sure you don't suck in air because you've emptied all the old stuff out and you may have a lingering air bubble at the reservoir outlet tube.
When bleeding, get a soft rubber mallet and as the fluid is coming out, tap the lines, and caliper in different areas. You will be surprised how many bubbles and dark colored bits get dislodged.
The other thing I used to do was after a good bleed, I would drive the car and do a couple ABS-inducing stops. This will help get the newer stuff into the ABS system.
BTW, is modern brake fluid still that paint-corrosive? I think I read somewhere its not as bad as it used to be. I've bled with the wheels on before, threw an old towel around there for protection, but I never drip from the nipple anyway, the Motive catch bottle works great.
Last edited by Subw00er; 04-30-2017 at 10:13 AM.
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Jet Vet (05-01-2017)
#37
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St. Jude Donor '15-'16
I"m getting ready for some track days so I used a power bleeder and put new castrol srf fluid in C7 Z51. This is the second brake fluid exchange I've done on this car. After a full bleed on all four wheels and topping off the system, my brake pedal goes to the floor. I can't get the pedal height to come up. The fluid level is correct in the master cylinder and there are no leaks.
Any ideas? Does this mean that I need to have the ABS unit bled using a scan tool? Should I try bleeding the brakes a 2nd time?
Any ideas? Does this mean that I need to have the ABS unit bled using a scan tool? Should I try bleeding the brakes a 2nd time?
JV
#38
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St. Jude Donor '15-'16
Couple tidbits.. [full disclosure - I used to bleed brakes A LOT on my c5 z06, but havent on my c7 yet]
With the motive bleeder (Which is well worth the money if you're planning on doing brakes a lot-get one of their catch bottles too), you do not touch the brake pedal at all. First empty the reservoir out of old fluid with a large syringe/turkey baster. Add fresh stuff up near the top and put the motive cap on, and fill the motive bottle with fresh fluid. Give the reservoir a few taps to make sure you don't suck in air because you've emptied all the old stuff out and you may have a lingering air bubble at the reservoir outlet tube.
When bleeding, get a soft rubber mallet and as the fluid is coming out, tap the lines, and caliper in different areas. You will be surprised how many bubbles and dark colored bits get dislodged.
The other thing I used to do was after a good bleed, I would drive the car and do a couple ABS-inducing stops. This will help get the newer stuff into the ABS system.
BTW, is modern brake fluid still that paint-corrosive? I think I read somewhere its not as bad as it used to be. I've bled with the wheels on before, threw an old towel around there for protection, but I never drip from the nipple anyway, the Motive catch bottle works great.
With the motive bleeder (Which is well worth the money if you're planning on doing brakes a lot-get one of their catch bottles too), you do not touch the brake pedal at all. First empty the reservoir out of old fluid with a large syringe/turkey baster. Add fresh stuff up near the top and put the motive cap on, and fill the motive bottle with fresh fluid. Give the reservoir a few taps to make sure you don't suck in air because you've emptied all the old stuff out and you may have a lingering air bubble at the reservoir outlet tube.
When bleeding, get a soft rubber mallet and as the fluid is coming out, tap the lines, and caliper in different areas. You will be surprised how many bubbles and dark colored bits get dislodged.
The other thing I used to do was after a good bleed, I would drive the car and do a couple ABS-inducing stops. This will help get the newer stuff into the ABS system.
BTW, is modern brake fluid still that paint-corrosive? I think I read somewhere its not as bad as it used to be. I've bled with the wheels on before, threw an old towel around there for protection, but I never drip from the nipple anyway, the Motive catch bottle works great.
I hadn't heard the tip about tapping the caliper with a mallet, but it sounds very logical and I'll definitely give it a try.
I have gotten at least a little brake fluid on my calipers several times while doing overhauls and other in-depth maintenance, and I haven't seen any paint corrosion yet on my red calipers, so you may be right about advances in that regard.
JV
Last edited by Jet Vet; 05-01-2017 at 12:19 AM.
#39
Racer
Couple tidbits.. [full disclosure - I used to bleed brakes A LOT on my c5 z06, but havent on my c7 yet]
With the motive bleeder (Which is well worth the money if you're planning on doing brakes a lot-get one of their catch bottles too), you do not touch the brake pedal at all. First empty the reservoir out of old fluid with a large syringe/turkey baster. Add fresh stuff up near the top and put the motive cap on, and fill the motive bottle with fresh fluid. Give the reservoir a few taps to make sure you don't suck in air because you've emptied all the old stuff out and you may have a lingering air bubble at the reservoir outlet tube.
When bleeding, get a soft rubber mallet and as the fluid is coming out, tap the lines, and caliper in different areas. You will be surprised how many bubbles and dark colored bits get dislodged.
The other thing I used to do was after a good bleed, I would drive the car and do a couple ABS-inducing stops. This will help get the newer stuff into the ABS system.
BTW, is modern brake fluid still that paint-corrosive? I think I read somewhere its not as bad as it used to be. I've bled with the wheels on before, threw an old towel around there for protection, but I never drip from the nipple anyway, the Motive catch bottle works great.
With the motive bleeder (Which is well worth the money if you're planning on doing brakes a lot-get one of their catch bottles too), you do not touch the brake pedal at all. First empty the reservoir out of old fluid with a large syringe/turkey baster. Add fresh stuff up near the top and put the motive cap on, and fill the motive bottle with fresh fluid. Give the reservoir a few taps to make sure you don't suck in air because you've emptied all the old stuff out and you may have a lingering air bubble at the reservoir outlet tube.
When bleeding, get a soft rubber mallet and as the fluid is coming out, tap the lines, and caliper in different areas. You will be surprised how many bubbles and dark colored bits get dislodged.
The other thing I used to do was after a good bleed, I would drive the car and do a couple ABS-inducing stops. This will help get the newer stuff into the ABS system.
BTW, is modern brake fluid still that paint-corrosive? I think I read somewhere its not as bad as it used to be. I've bled with the wheels on before, threw an old towel around there for protection, but I never drip from the nipple anyway, the Motive catch bottle works great.