Theta

Here's the new chart with the FE6/FE7 Z06 info.

Attachment 48367182

RS4EVA

Awesome, thanks!

You don't happen to have acces to the specs for Trim height for Z06 too?

Theta

That I've not run across, but I will look again for you today. If I find anything, I'll post it here.

SocalCyberZ51

can someone explain which way to rotate the alignment plate to achieve more negative camber? Do each notch represent a certain amount of degrees? Also, how do you rotate it (any special tools involved)?

I've done alignments on other cars, but am unfamiliar with the corvette setup. Thanks.

VERBOTEN

Can you comment on the need to remove washers in order reach the track specs. My dealer was able to get the camber on the rear but then could not get back to the toe spec. They gave me the car with .8 toe out in the rear. I brought the car home and removed one washer from under each of the mounting points on each side. Then took it back to the dealer, they were then able to get it to spec but wanted to charge me for two alignments.

My argument is that this is a GM spec and shouldn't have been an issue.

Thanks.

Bill Dearborn

It isn't an issue with it being a GM spec or not. The dealer mechanic should have known enough to remove the washers. It has been that way on Corvettes since the 97s came out. The first time I took my 97 into a dealer for a track alignment the mechanic showed me where he removed the washers to get the range of adjustments required. He even bagged the washers for me so they would be available to reinstall when I went back to a street alignment. Mine was the first C5 alignment he had done and it was no big deal. I take it there are other GM products that have a similar setup so it isn't something strange to them.

They are just trying to charge you for the mechanic's lack of knowledge.

Bill

SocalCyberZ51

Just FYI for those who do their own alignments. Each notch on the cam appears to be approximately 1degree. Actually pretty easy to adjust. Used an iron bar at the loosened joint to get more negative camber and held it there while retightening. Took an afternoon using my fastrax and the car still goes straight!
(Took one set of the washers off of the upper a-arms before adjusting as well.)

Bill Dearborn

There are some rules on how many and which washers can be removed that were published in a Feb. 2016 bulletin. See the attached PDF file.
It varies depending on whether you have a Stingray, Z51 or Z06.

Bill

Magister Ludi

NTMD8R

Can anyone explain why they say to remove ONLY 1 washer (not 2) ?????

I have removed 2 washers from all my A-Arms.
What problems can this cause (if any) ?

I did this to be able to get -2.0 camber in the rear.

How important is rear caster ?
I have not checked for this at all.

X25

I think that max 1 washer advice is there merely since you are supposed to hit the targets with one washer, and taking more off might make it impossible to hit the targets (keep in mind the bulletin is not for us, but rather for the dealer; dealers are not supposed to go off-spec even for track).

I can't imagine any reason why 2 washers vs. 1 would make any difference.

Regarding rear caster, it turned out to be quite important. I'd highly recommend that you get it done. My adapter for rear caster adjustment will hopefully be shipped next week.

Bill Dearborn

The only reason that I can think of is my Z06 came with 2 washers/spacers on the front corners and only one spacer on the rear corners. There may be some frame wear issue with having the dog bones pressing directly against the frame Vs riding on at least one spacer. I don't know how many spacers are behind the Z51 rear ucas but it may be two. When the suspension is moving up and down there may be some movement of the dog bones relative to the frame and a spacer between the two would minimize rubbing.

Bill

X25

Makes sense. I'd personally not hesitate removing more washers if I need to, as long as I have at least one left in there.

NTMD8R

So today I took it in to my local Dealer.
I had arranged (last Monday) for this, explaining things to him.

He said my rear caster was about 2.x deg neg on one side, and about 1.9 deg neg on the other.

He also said my toe in was very excessive.

So we changed things... we now have...

Front Caster 7.4, 8.0, Camber -2.5 each side, toe .05 deg (out) both sides
Rear Caster 0 both sides, Camber -2.0 both sides, toe zero both sides.

Based on what I have been reading it is entirely possible this might have been my
problem all along (rear caster).

But I was throwing all sorts of things at it in desperation.

This Saturday we have another event... let's see how things go.

thebishman

How were you able to get so much front (-) camber? Did you remove one washer from the UCA? The rear?

TIA,
Bish

NTMD8R

I have removed ALL washers from the A-Arms.

With the wide rear tires, this is the only way I could get -2.0 deg camber.

RS4EVA

Is the front camber a misprint? It's -0.6 left and -0.9 right.

X25

Looks like GM is compensating (rather harshly) for the driver weight. It happens in all configurations; can't be a misprint.

HorsePower Junkie

Terrific F&R Alignment write up that I can now take to the dealers who say, "My tech says he doesn't need any of this." Sure gets old hearing that crap which says, "We do a half *** alignment."

Thank you Theta, thanks to all of you who contributed. You are truly appreciated.


.

Cman01

R there alignment specs for the C7 ZR1? Would they be the same as Z06 specs or different for the ZR1?