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I'm curious of anyone who has changed out the pads if the brakje dust is better? we all know the brake dust keeps teh wheels looking dirty or require a bunch of cleaning... wondering if changing the pads makes that better. Also, mine are squeeking like I drive an old POS, but I have just over 5000 miles on it. Going in for 2nd oil change this week and will ask them to adress the noise.
I see the swap is not difficult, just wondering if worth the hassle.
I'm curious of anyone who has changed out the pads if the brakje dust is better? we all know the brake dust keeps teh wheels looking dirty or require a bunch of cleaning... wondering if changing the pads makes that better. Also, mine are squeeking like I drive an old POS, but I have just over 5000 miles on it. Going in for 2nd oil change this week and will ask them to adress the noise.
I see the swap is not difficult, just wondering if worth the hassle.
Search Carbotech 1521 and if interested I will be happy to help you.
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Adam Adelstein
Amp’D Autosport.com
Internet's largest retailer of Carbotech Performance Brake Pads.
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Just did mine today. 2016 Z06. Powerstop Z26. Pretty straight forward. 13mm socket needed for the front to get the cross bolt out. Pads needed a little wiggling to get out, same to get the new pads back in. Rears were alot easier as no cross bolt and plus the pads just slid out nice and easy. Also gave me a chance to clean the inside of the wheels real well and calipers.
I'm curious of anyone who has changed out the pads if the brakje dust is better? we all know the brake dust keeps teh wheels looking dirty or require a bunch of cleaning... wondering if changing the pads makes that better. Also, mine are squeeking like I drive an old POS, but I have just over 5000 miles on it. Going in for 2nd oil change this week and will ask them to adress the noise.
I see the swap is not difficult, just wondering if worth the hassle.
Absolutely worth it! I lived with brake dust in my Z51 for about a year. Had to clean my black wheels in two trips to town (~100 miles total) or the brake dust was pitting the wheels.
Switched to Carbotech Ceramic 1521's and for the past two years only clean my wheels when I wash the car! I'd estimate 80+% less dust and what is there dos not pit and washed off with soap and water. Should have done it from day one! No noise at all. I feel they stop just as good as OEM when warm and better when cold. I need to enter a 4 lane dived highway near my home and about 100 yards later make a right turn. When brakes are cold they stop great, better than the OEM's.
Plan on getting a GS and will order the Carbotech pads before I get the car! As you note easy to swap.
Ok I received the powerstop pads today and removed he existing pads and of course the new and old are a little different. With this being my first time changing brake pads I need to ask a few questions and do this correctly.
The existing were straight forward being removed but the new pads came with a bag of hardware which had no instructions on use. I assume that I am to reuse the two pins that came out of the from calipers and disregard the pins included with new pads? Secondly, what do I do with the new silver hardware, do I just slide the pads in by themselves and not use any of the new hardware? Do I use the lubricant as well?
Ok, got one front wheel done but the second front wheel is problematic as if the pads are stuck and i don't want to be to forceful and break something. Can someone provide tip on how to release or unstick the pads on the one front side?
Ok I received the powerstop pads today and removed he existing pads and of course the new and old are a little different. With this being my first time changing brake pads I need to ask a few questions and do this correctly.
The existing were straight forward being removed but the new pads came with a bag of hardware which had no instructions on use. I assume that I am to reuse the two pins that came out of the from calipers and disregard the pins included with new pads? Secondly, what do I do with the new silver hardware, do I just slide the pads in by themselves and not use any of the new hardware? Do I use the lubricant as well?
Thanks in advance for your help and guidance
My plan for the GS I have on order is to use the pins and springs that come with the car.
The lub they provide only goes on the side metal edges of each pad. I will use (as I did on my 2014) a thicker Permatex lub on the pad backs. Don't know that it is essential but I have it so putting some on the back is easy enough.
Ok, got one front wheel done but the second front wheel is problematic as if the pads are stuck and i don't want to be to forceful and break something. Can someone provide tip on how to release or unstick the pads on the one front side?
Have no idea what is stuck. You should be able to leverage the pads against the caliper to break the pad to pistion connection if that is what is stuck.
On my early 2014 there was double sided tape on the piston to pad-a real PIA to remove. That is no longer used. However you could do what did for those, which is to use a stiff paint scraper between the pad and the piston-if that is what is stuck. Should take very little force. Hard to think you can break anything as there are very high forces when the brakes are applied.
Let us know what you did and where they were "stuck."
I looked at the front pads that came out easily and here was. I sign of tape so I assume there isn't on the stuck side. So that I'm clear I am lost this picture to see if that is the area you suggest using a scraper to loosen? So when I look at the pads I removed each has circular indentations which I believe are piston marks? If so, it makes it clear the area I need to focus on separating from pads.
Originally Posted by JerryU
Have no idea what is stuck. You should be able to leverage the pads against the caliper to break the pad to pistion connection if that is what is stuck.
On my early 2014 there was double sided tape on the piston to pad-a real PIA to remove. That is no longer used. However you could do what did for those, which is to use a stiff paint scraper between the pad and the piston-if that is what is stuck. Should take very little force. Hard to think you can break anything as there are very high forces when the brakes are applied.
Let us know what you did and where they were "stuck."
I got a metal spatula/scraper and the hammer I was using didn't have a lot of weight and I couldn't find my heavier hammer.....So I had to go for the big gun and pulled out the sledge hammer and it took about 4 swings for each pad and it loosen up and finally got them out.
I have three wheels done and i will complete the other one tomorrow sometime. However, I am seeing that they two remaining brake pads doesn't have any sensors and i recall reading somewhere that it's one sensor per side on the front pads so i must have two sensors on the completed side and will need to remove that wheel and swap out one pad with a sensor and then i will be all set.
The video says per powerstop it recommends that you drive five times to 40mph and break down to 10mph and then drive five times to 35mph and break down to 5mph without let the brakes cool. Anything else I need to do to prime the brakes?
Thanks for all of your help and encouragement to get me through this and its really what i appreciate about the forum and people who are either trained techs, mechanics and/or just have performed task at hand and willing to provide direction and assistance!
As you can see below there was some glue that was giving the problem but no glue on the other wheel interesting enough.
Originally Posted by KGrant
I looked at the front pads that came out easily and here was. I sign of tape so I assume there isn't on the stuck side. So that I'm clear I am lost this picture to see if that is the area you suggest using a scraper to loosen? So when I look at the pads I removed each has circular indentations which I believe are piston marks? If so, it makes it clear the area I need to focus on separating from pads.
^^^^^
Thanks for the feedback! Although perhaps not the very strong two sided tape that was on the front pads only of my early 2014 Z51, looks like some type of thin tape was used! You can see it curled up in one pic! I'll be prepared in case-still have the modified wide paint scraper that I tapered one edge to a knife point.
I will use the heavier Permatex Ceramic Brake lub I bought for the 2014 on the pad backs. Will use the supplied lub on the side edges of the metal brake pad backing.
My plan was to bed the pads per what you describe after the 500 miles break-in where I will try not to use hard braking to let pads and rotors mate. We'll see how they feel.
I test drove today and did the braking from 40mph to 10 and 30mph to 5mph and the breaking was good with a good bite. I intentionally cleaned the wheel drums and spokes to gage dust collection on my 25 minute test driven. There was dust so not sure if it was a dusty road but I won't rate the PowerStop on dust just yet but people were saying they drove 100-200 miles and had almost no dust so I guess that is what I was expecting for a 25 minute 15-20 mile drive. So I'll wait before I deliver review on the reduction of dust accumulation on wheels.
Originally Posted by JerryU
^^^^^
Thanks for the feedback! Although perhaps not the very strong two sided tape that was on the front pads only of my early 2014 Z51, looks like some type of thin tape was used! You can see it curled up in one pic! I'll be prepared in case-still have the modified wide paint scraper that I tapered one edge to a knife point.
I will use the heavier Permatex Ceramic Brake lub I bought for the 2014 on the pad backs. Will use the supplied lub on the side edges of the metal brake pad backing.
My plan was to bed the pads per what you describe after the 500 miles break-in where I will try not to use hard braking to let pads and rotors mate. We'll see how they feel.
I test drove today and did the braking from 40mph to 10 and 30mph to 5mph and the breaking was good with a good bite. I intentionally cleaned the wheel drums and spokes to gage dust collection on my 25 minute test driven. There was dust so not sure if it was a dusty road but I won't rate the PowerStop on dust just yet but people were saying they drove 100-200 miles and had almost no dust so I guess that is what I was expecting for a 25 minute 15-20 mile drive. So I'll wait before I deliver review on the reduction of dust accumulation on wheels.
Thanks for the feedback. Expect when bedding you would get more than with normal braking. You have now baked them at pretty high temps and removed high spots!
Will be interested in your assessment after you put on a few hundred more miles.
I am changing out my Z51 pads to power stops. My old pads are like new and never added brake fluid and noticed it is almost up to the top of the container. Did you guys need to drop the level or is this ok to proceed. I'm concerned that pushing the pistons in will cause it to overflow.
02-19-2015, 02:08 PM
brake dust
