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Header Install Directions (Z51)

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Old 12-18-2014, 01:35 PM
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TDH
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Default Header Install Directions (Z51)

Has anyone done a step by step header install for a base or Z51 car?

I realize the coil covers need to be removed, the tunnel brace, x-pipe removed at the collectors, the fuse box on the passenger side, the spark plugs and wires pulled, the bolts removed at the head, the z51 oil lines and the oil drained, the starter needs removed, but was wondering if there are other things I should know in advance.

I see some people removing the valve covers. I heard someone say the passenger side was easier to go in from the top (mid-length). I am installing mid-length too.

Also, is there a valve cover gasket or is it silicone if I do need to remove it. Any other parts I might need since I'm going to be doing it on a holiday week.
Old 12-18-2014, 01:53 PM
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Kracka
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This should help: https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...r-install.html
Old 12-18-2014, 02:34 PM
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TDH
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Originally Posted by Kracka
Thanks. I searched and missed it.
Old 12-18-2014, 06:14 PM
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corvette8189
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Just did this.
driver side easy.
pass side major pita
i removed the valve cover on pass side to get more room to work with, its really tight

Both headers went in from the bottom, no way you could do it from the top especially the pass side
Old 12-19-2014, 09:43 AM
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Originally Posted by corvette8189
Just did this.
driver side easy.
pass side major pita
i removed the valve cover on pass side to get more room to work with, its really tight

Both headers went in from the bottom, no way you could do it from the top especially the pass side
I thought the same thing about installing the passenger side from the top, but there is someone in Steve Doten's thread here in this section claiming that was the only way he could get his in.

I have never done a late model Camaro or Vette that it would be easier from the top, but this is a new car for me so I definitely like to hear the wisdom of those who have completed the same job.

Thanks for the input.
Old 12-21-2014, 01:31 AM
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"BoneStock"
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I did passenger side from the bottom. Didn't even have to remove the oil line, just the starter. I don't see how you could drop it in from the top.
Old 12-21-2014, 02:59 AM
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I've not seen any way to do LTs without removing those lines (and I've done a dozen or more header swaps), but that's very interesting about the TSPs!
Old 12-21-2014, 08:15 AM
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GoldenOne
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Originally Posted by Theta
I've not seen any way to do LTs without removing those lines (and I've done a dozen or more header swaps), but that's very interesting about the TSPs!
My midlength just went in. I had to disconnect oil lines but starter stayed . Took a bit of wrestling but both in from beneath.
Old 12-21-2014, 10:01 AM
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Jason 98 TA
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I always remove the valve covers on the pass side so it's easier.

One thing I can tell you is just because the tsp headers are the longest primaries doesn't make them harder to install. Honestly they're probably the easiest install. No starter removal, no lifting motor up, and some guys claim they didn't remove oil lines. I always did because I was use to trying several different brands and styles in testing. I guess I was in a groove and just repeating steps without considering if there were easier ways!
Old 12-21-2014, 12:38 PM
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RussM05
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For the ARH mid length, had to remove valve cover on passengers side and starter. Tried to put in from the bottom but couldn't find a way.

Drivers side no problem from the bottom.
Old 12-21-2014, 05:36 PM
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"BoneStock"
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The Texas speed headers WILL go in without removing the oil lines. Takes a little wrestling and you have to remove the starter. I would much rather remove the starter than an oil line.
Old 12-21-2014, 05:51 PM
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RussM05
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Originally Posted by "BoneStock"
The Texas speed headers WILL go in without removing the oil lines. Takes a little wrestling and you have to remove the starter. I would much rather remove the starter than an oil line.
Removing the oil lines from the sump is no big deal. Drain the oil then unbolt the oil line retainer from the sump. Very simple. The oil lines plug straight in and are sealed to the sump with an "O" ring. A bolt on retainer keeps them in place. So don't let that influence what header to buy.
Old 12-21-2014, 08:40 PM
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Originally Posted by RussM05
Removing the oil lines from the sump is no big deal. Drain the oil then unbolt the oil line retainer from the sump. Very simple. The oil lines plug straight in and are sealed to the sump with an "O" ring. A bolt on retainer keeps them in place. So don't let that influence what header to buy.
It didn't for me. Price was enough. But I personally think it's a pita getting or cleaning a container to put the oil in so it can be re-used. Easy to just unbolt the starter.
Old 01-30-2018, 06:17 PM
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looks like cake compared to doing my f body LSX LT headers
Old 10-15-2018, 05:47 PM
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RobBeacon
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I'm tackling this job right now. The passenger side has a ton of electrical in the way. I pulled the relay box then removed the five individual relay plugs from the tray then unbolted the tray and removed the coil pack cover. once all that once removed the passenger side was pretty easy. There is a round thing on the driver side and I have no idea what it's for. its mounted with soft rubber mounts. I want to remove it for clearance but don't want to mess with it without knowing its purpose. I think there is less physical space on the driver side. At least on the passenger side you can MAKE space. If anyone knows what the round thing is on the driver side chime in!

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