Higgs Boson

TSP does not share cam specs

given that the stock motor is 460, it's safe to say you'll get about 40-45 HP from VVT-1.

dovervold

I agree. Everyone running a blower seems to be having traction issues all the way through third gear. So in order to take advantage of that much power you can also plan on some 18 inch rims and drag radials, probably another 2K or better.

I ran a cam and LT's on my C6Z and absolutely loved it. Made great HP, never heat soaked, sounded mean at the stop light, ect... If we could get close to 500 whp with a cam, LT's, CAI, and ported TB, this could be the cat's meow.

Anyone seem dyno sheets for this combo?

567Chev

Here is one from Vengeance Racing that has that combo other than the ported TB: https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...yno-video.html

TSP has some good dyno sheets on their site on the C7 cam pages as well although I think those ones are engine dynos. Good info though.

This is a dyno run (in the video) from LMR with heads/cam (stage III cam), not sure what else was done but it had OEM intake. https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...in-action.html

OBSSSD

Lots of people run blowers on the track around here and run great times - both PD and centri too

Higgs Boson

when you say something is great on the track in reference to a corvette, the assumption is a road course.

when you say lots of people run great times with a blower, the assumption is drag strip.

if you mean a blower is great on a drag strip, then yeah....pretty much anything is great on a drag strip, it is no challenge to hardware except for your 60 ft. no one overheats on the drag strip (and I've run NHRA and IHRA for 20 years).

if you mean a blower is great on a road course, not unless you are talking about a few laps then in for an hour of cooling.

Pitufina

I like the blowers vs n/a discussions. I have a blower, cam and exhaust on my vetteand and if we were going to put it in perspective, a heads and cam car will most certainly lose in every contest.
Now, I decided to go this route because I am not ready to fully crack on the engine. If my engine blows up then I will buy a stroker short block an go back to n/a. The point I'm trying to make here is that if you're not going to build a stroker, staying n/a and trying to beat a FI car most of the times the odds won't be on your favor. That's just my personnal opinion.

robertf97

Very true, but why would you go back to NA stroker vs. Blown stroker if you already have the blower? The "worlds most powerful NA LT1" at 427ci is still not impressive compared to a stroked blower car on mild boost.

Pitufina

Because a N/A stroker would be the ticket for daily and drag. You are not adding weight to the front of the car. Performance is much more repeatable and consistent in my opinion. No worries about throwing belts, heatsoak, many other parts and things to go wrong, etc.

robertf97

For a road course maybe but you are going to get spanked regularly on the street and strip. Going to 427ci from a 376 is going to get you about 14% more power. Take off the blower and you lose 40-50% power at 7-8 boost. Not a good trade to me.

Pitufina

First, I dont race others on the streets and regurlaly being beaten....well that's just speculation. Most people just throw money on the engine and don't maximize what they have before throwing even more money on it when they dont get the results right away. I Am to blame on that one too since I wanted the easy way out. My car with approximately $1.5k in selectively chosen parts including cam, exhaust, tune and tires since I work on my own car, ran 11.32@124. This was with me bogging off the line. 3-4 times at the track and a lot of people would come to me asking as to what I did to the car. I know that I could've ran 10s that way but like I said, I took the easy way out. I've seen plenty of cars at the track with turbos, superchargers, nitrous, you name it and will run slower than me with a just a couple of bolt ons. So yeah a FI engine will be faster ONLY if you make everything else work together, which it just happen to be easier on a N/A car IMO. I can't hook on the street for crap until the top of third gear now with the supercharger. So all that power and if I can't put it down is of no help. The same can be said on a really powerful N/A combo, but you get my point. Another thing is that people love to race dynos and yes mine has never been on one.

robertf97

True, less powerful cars are easier to launch. Quicker means lower ET, faster means higher trap speed. If you were faster than power adder cars with bolt ons you are definitely on to something. I suspect you are just better at launching though.

Pitufina

Exactly. FI car are just so much fun thought! The rush of power is just awesome, and honestly if there's a power adder that I would really love to have is turbo.

For the OP, run what you want if that makes you happy or what your budget permits. Main thing is to make sure every parts is chosen to work together with the rest. So, research, research and research. See what works for the others and what's proven.

leadville1

I used to have a BMW M5 with a high reving motor that pulled all the way to redline, it wasn't a torque monster down low but there is no question that naturally aspirated car pulling up top was by my favorite engine on the track.

The stock M5 was rated at 505 hp (crank) and my M3 with a supercharger is about the same 437 at the wheels. On the track the M5 would absolutely kill the M3 in top end speed on the straights. FI horsepower is not sustainable on the track, unless it is a very efficient turbo system. But as said the sum of the parts has to work together perfectly.

JoesC5

Sounds as if the OP has made up his mind for a cam, heads and headers, but a PD blower( E-Force or Heartbeat) is easier to remove(less $$$$) if you want to return the car back to stock to sell it, and then sell the blower on it's own.

PD fits under the stock hood, had perfect table manners, yet screams when punched in the ribs.

C7Kevin

I think the best approach when evaluating cams for ANY engine, Corvette or otherwise,
is to basically ignore all of the various specs(lift, duration, LSA, etc) and focus on the seat-of-the-pants performance as observed by other owners of similar engine builds to the one you are going to have.

I say this because cam design is extremely technical and is best left to the professionals. Also, it is simply not necessary for a car owner to expend time learning about cam design.

So, my advice would be to find someone(s) who have an engine like you are planning and ask them 1) how they like their cam and 2) if you can take a test drive with them
in the car and you driving.

After you find a cam that nails the ***-dyno test, you won't even care about cam profile specs. You'll just know that you have a cam you like very much and that the specs don't matter. You only have to please yourself. Nobody else.

Higgs Boson

As they say, ignorance is bliss....

567Chev

It's also mandatory - I got more hens teeth then LT1 cam specs.

It would be great to get a test drive in a bunch of different cammed C7s, but I don'know anyone with even one.

So I'm getting more comfortable with the leap of faith method.

Higgs Boson

I don't know what that means but I wasn't referring to initial ignorance, just perpetual.

567Chev

Fair enough. My ignorance on choosing a cam is of the profound variety. But it's all good.

Higgs Boson

Any cam is better than stock cam.