Lingenfelter C7 thermostat install.
01-21-2015, 09:57 AM
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Lingenfelter C7 thermostat install.
pic links dead but stored here:
https://get.google.com/albumarchive/...ZR44JXIvUB1CtS
Despite only replacing the bulb assembly vs. an entire thermostat, $30 was not bad at all and the install was easy taking about 30 minutes. I went with 160*living in VA.
-Drain about 1 gallon of coolant, the drain is bottom drivers side of radiator. Mine was stuck good, I used a small crescent wrench on it to pop loose.
-Remove the 3 10mm screws from thermostat housing, pull straight back
-Push down on the spring retainer and rotate either direction carefully until the tabs clear the plastic clips (not super easy, be careful)
-This is what you get off the car
-Comparing stock, left to 160, right
-Place new bulb assembly in thermostat housing
-Reinstall spring retainer
-Re-install the 3 10mm screws. I hand tightened with 1/4" ratchet but tq spec is probably around 100in-lbs for these m6 screws. There is a nice seal in there, and the housing is plastic with metal inserts, best advice is to not try to kill it.
-Don't forget to make sure you closed the radiator drain before transferring the coolant back to the overflow. On a slow pour you may be able to get it all in before restart, but easy to finish the job once it burps the air out while running.
The 160 stat seems to be operating well! You will need to adjust your fan temperatures to help control the temp when sitting still. At stock settings you should see the fans cycle less frequently and go high speed far less. I see that the temp stabilizes right around 160 at speed so the stat is well calibrated.
if you do not change your thermostat setting in the tune you may still get the code because the car is still looking for 194* minimum operating.. look in the tune for this.
i had no trouble with this changed to 175
https://get.google.com/albumarchive/...ZR44JXIvUB1CtS
Despite only replacing the bulb assembly vs. an entire thermostat, $30 was not bad at all and the install was easy taking about 30 minutes. I went with 160*living in VA.
-Drain about 1 gallon of coolant, the drain is bottom drivers side of radiator. Mine was stuck good, I used a small crescent wrench on it to pop loose.
-Remove the 3 10mm screws from thermostat housing, pull straight back
-Push down on the spring retainer and rotate either direction carefully until the tabs clear the plastic clips (not super easy, be careful)
-This is what you get off the car
-Comparing stock, left to 160, right
-Place new bulb assembly in thermostat housing
-Reinstall spring retainer
-Re-install the 3 10mm screws. I hand tightened with 1/4" ratchet but tq spec is probably around 100in-lbs for these m6 screws. There is a nice seal in there, and the housing is plastic with metal inserts, best advice is to not try to kill it.
-Don't forget to make sure you closed the radiator drain before transferring the coolant back to the overflow. On a slow pour you may be able to get it all in before restart, but easy to finish the job once it burps the air out while running.
The 160 stat seems to be operating well! You will need to adjust your fan temperatures to help control the temp when sitting still. At stock settings you should see the fans cycle less frequently and go high speed far less. I see that the temp stabilizes right around 160 at speed so the stat is well calibrated.
if you do not change your thermostat setting in the tune you may still get the code because the car is still looking for 194* minimum operating.. look in the tune for this.
i had no trouble with this changed to 175
Last edited by MIGHTYM0USE; 11-09-2017 at 09:21 AM.
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duckman714 (02-08-2016)
01-21-2015, 10:24 AM
#2
Le Mans Master
Thanks for the write-up, pictures, and review. This is something I'll have to keep in mind.
01-24-2015, 04:42 PM
#5
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every 10 degrees is 1%
220 - 180 = 40 = 4% * 460 = 478 - 460 = 18 HP
all else equal, of course.
also, that is a general rule that applies to intake air temps, which may not translate linearly to combustion temps, but I bet it's pretty close.
I'd say it is safe to call it 10-15 HP and 8-10 at the wheels
220 - 180 = 40 = 4% * 460 = 478 - 460 = 18 HP
all else equal, of course.
also, that is a general rule that applies to intake air temps, which may not translate linearly to combustion temps, but I bet it's pretty close.
I'd say it is safe to call it 10-15 HP and 8-10 at the wheels
01-24-2015, 04:49 PM
#7
Le Mans Master
every 10 degrees is 1%
220 - 180 = 40 = 4% * 460 = 478 - 460 = 18 HP
all else equal, of course.
also, that is a general rule that applies to intake air temps, which may not translate linearly to combustion temps, but I bet it's pretty close.
I'd say it is safe to call it 10-15 HP and 8-10 at the wheels
220 - 180 = 40 = 4% * 460 = 478 - 460 = 18 HP
all else equal, of course.
also, that is a general rule that applies to intake air temps, which may not translate linearly to combustion temps, but I bet it's pretty close.
I'd say it is safe to call it 10-15 HP and 8-10 at the wheels
01-24-2015, 04:57 PM
#8
Melting Slicks
The 160 stat seems to be operating well! You will need to adjust your fan temperatures to help control the temp when sitting still. At stock settings you should see the fans cycle less frequently and go high speed far less. I see that the temp stabilizes right around 160 at speed so the stat is well calibrated.
01-24-2015, 05:32 PM
#9
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01-24-2015, 11:29 PM
#10
Safety Car
01-25-2015, 09:27 AM
#13
I'm curious to see what effect if any this thermostat would have during HPDE use. I would expect that you might gain a little lead time, but that the car will still end up well over 220.
Can anyone comment?
Ken
Can anyone comment?
Ken
01-26-2015, 08:10 AM
#15
I am putting this in and a DeWitts Radiator, with my head and cam package. Expect to see some nice temp reductions at the track.
01-26-2015, 08:42 AM
#16
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
the fans work independent of the thermostat. however much like how the fans when the car is stock work in harmony with the thermostat, you can maximize the effort by having the fan speed temps massaged in the tune. a diablo kit may be able to do that, i don't know.
a supercharger was put on my car before i bought it and the tune/fan speeds changed even though the thermostat was stock.
now i see that the car can cool below current fan trigger speed by driving the car down the road. and when sitting still it creeps up a little higher than i would like before the first speed comes on.
in the interest of maintaining a small operational window, i could move the fan speeds down further though i personally don't want the fan on all the time either.
a supercharger was put on my car before i bought it and the tune/fan speeds changed even though the thermostat was stock.
now i see that the car can cool below current fan trigger speed by driving the car down the road. and when sitting still it creeps up a little higher than i would like before the first speed comes on.
in the interest of maintaining a small operational window, i could move the fan speeds down further though i personally don't want the fan on all the time either.
01-31-2015, 04:21 PM
#18
Thanks for posting. I put my 170 in today and it works great. Cruises at about 176 got up to 185 in traffic. Usrd to run 206-210 all the time. My fans didnt even come on.
01-31-2015, 07:39 PM
#19
anyone knows the coolant temperature when closed loop o2 will begin? thank you
01-31-2015, 07:49 PM
#20
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