C7 Shifter issues - Here's the alignment procedure
#1
Intermediate
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C7 Shifter issues - Here's the alignment procedure
If you are experiencing issues with your 7 sped manual shifter, GM knows how to address it..(See attachment)
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#2
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Thanks dbisc. I'm having an issue where mine won't shift into 3rd under hard acceleration. Going to try this before taking it to the dealership.
On step 9.4, anybody know how to "inspect for proper alignment in the neutral position"? What am I looking for or aligning with?
On step 9.4, anybody know how to "inspect for proper alignment in the neutral position"? What am I looking for or aligning with?
#4
Melting Slicks
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MGW short shifter will fix all of your problems and then some...the stock shifter is the same kind of low quality shifter put in the C6 and C5...if you go to all the trouble to take everything apart as in the bulletin might as well change it
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bluekey28 (10-21-2021)
#5
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While I am already planning to go to the MGW, I'd like to have the issue resolved in stock form before I start throwing parts at it. Getting to the shifter wasn't a big deal at all in my C5, and the procedure looks virtually identical here, so I don't mind verifying the stock shifter is properly aligned
#6
Melting Slicks
I've worked on a number of shifters on the C5, C6, and C7s. The MGW shifter in my opinion is the best solution available. The stock shifter and box are EXACTLY the same as the C6.
There are a few things you can do to 'tune up" the factory shifter
1. Replace the rubber bushings.
They are not available from GM. You have to buy the whole box. There are two types available aftermarket. Urethane from ZIP and rubber from TFS. The TFS bushings are larger than stock so once installed, they deflect less but still provide vibration dampening. The urethane are firmer so they will allow more vibration to come thru. The TFS bushings can be purchased from a number of forum vendors including West Coast Corvette, RPI, eBay, and others. I like the rubber bushings from TFS because you get 4 for $20.
2. Alignment.
This is very simple. Put the car in neutral and loosen the 2 #40 torx bolts. Insert the alignment pin in the hole on the front of the shifter to lock the shifter shaft in neutral. You may have to move the box around to get the pin to drop in the hole in the shaft. Once the pin is down and the shifter is locked in neutral, tighten the #40 torx bolts.
3. Lower box mount
Nobody talks about this but I am convinced that any looseness here causes the shifter box to move around, to be vague and the dreaded "rattling" people complain about on the C6. The box must fit tightly in the slot on the torque tube.
To get to this, you have to removed the shifter box. There is a black plastic sleeve on the "foot" on the bottom of the box with a small amount of RTV. This fits in a slot on the torque tube. If its not tight, vibration from the torque tube will cause the shifter box to bounce around and the box to move during shifting....vagueness on gear shifts.
This can be tightened up by removing the black plastic sleeve, adding more RTV between the box and the sleeve, then reinstall the box. Let it cure before starting the engine. This should tighten the box to the slot in the torque tube. Be very careful when removing the shifter box as the black plastic sleeve can fall down below the torque tube. You will have to fish it out. Not fun.
4. Grease.
If you remove the shifter from the box, you will see the end of the shifter fits in a hole in the shifter shaft. There is a black plastic cup that fitted on the end of shifter shaft. Add grease here as a lubricant and help improve the connection.
When you reassemble, always add Loctite blue to the bolts. The vibration will make them back out if you don't. I can't stress this enough. The 4 bolts holding the shifter down to the box are interference fit and when you remove and re-install, they won't have the same holding power as when they were installed originally. The Loctite Blue will keep them from backing out.
Finally, do not over tighten the 4 bolts holding the shifter to the box. The box is soft aluminum and threads will strip. If you strip one, drill it out and tap to the next largest size bolt.
There are a few things you can do to 'tune up" the factory shifter
1. Replace the rubber bushings.
They are not available from GM. You have to buy the whole box. There are two types available aftermarket. Urethane from ZIP and rubber from TFS. The TFS bushings are larger than stock so once installed, they deflect less but still provide vibration dampening. The urethane are firmer so they will allow more vibration to come thru. The TFS bushings can be purchased from a number of forum vendors including West Coast Corvette, RPI, eBay, and others. I like the rubber bushings from TFS because you get 4 for $20.
2. Alignment.
This is very simple. Put the car in neutral and loosen the 2 #40 torx bolts. Insert the alignment pin in the hole on the front of the shifter to lock the shifter shaft in neutral. You may have to move the box around to get the pin to drop in the hole in the shaft. Once the pin is down and the shifter is locked in neutral, tighten the #40 torx bolts.
3. Lower box mount
Nobody talks about this but I am convinced that any looseness here causes the shifter box to move around, to be vague and the dreaded "rattling" people complain about on the C6. The box must fit tightly in the slot on the torque tube.
To get to this, you have to removed the shifter box. There is a black plastic sleeve on the "foot" on the bottom of the box with a small amount of RTV. This fits in a slot on the torque tube. If its not tight, vibration from the torque tube will cause the shifter box to bounce around and the box to move during shifting....vagueness on gear shifts.
This can be tightened up by removing the black plastic sleeve, adding more RTV between the box and the sleeve, then reinstall the box. Let it cure before starting the engine. This should tighten the box to the slot in the torque tube. Be very careful when removing the shifter box as the black plastic sleeve can fall down below the torque tube. You will have to fish it out. Not fun.
4. Grease.
If you remove the shifter from the box, you will see the end of the shifter fits in a hole in the shifter shaft. There is a black plastic cup that fitted on the end of shifter shaft. Add grease here as a lubricant and help improve the connection.
When you reassemble, always add Loctite blue to the bolts. The vibration will make them back out if you don't. I can't stress this enough. The 4 bolts holding the shifter down to the box are interference fit and when you remove and re-install, they won't have the same holding power as when they were installed originally. The Loctite Blue will keep them from backing out.
Finally, do not over tighten the 4 bolts holding the shifter to the box. The box is soft aluminum and threads will strip. If you strip one, drill it out and tap to the next largest size bolt.
The following 4 users liked this post by RussM05:
#7
Team Owner
This very well could be a tranny problem.
Who ever thinks the MGW will fix the popping out of gear is trying
to sell shifters.
Who ever thinks the MGW will fix the popping out of gear is trying
to sell shifters.
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sam-garcia (01-16-2024)
#9
Le Mans Master
Bump for great info in this thread! Back out to the garage I go...
Last edited by Kracka; 12-27-2015 at 06:32 PM.
#10
Safety Car
FWIW, GM seems to think its shifter related. Did you read the PDF? Also since I have installed my shifter (MGW) my car has not popped out of gear since. It use to do it from time to time. So far, so good.
Last edited by CDH76; 12-28-2015 at 11:36 AM.
#11
Team Owner
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Co-winner 2020 C4 of the Year - Modified
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St. Jude Donor '09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16-'17-'18-'19-'20
Now I know it's not me, mine with 530 miles is having a 2nd gear issue. It doesn't go in smoothly like all others.
#12
Le Mans Master
There is no need for a mass recall. They've released the TSB (attachment above) to dealerships so they know exactly how to cure the problem if a customer experiences it. They'll be able to get you taken care of, or you can perform it yourself since it's fairly simple. I would personally rather have the adjustments documented though so I would have just let them do it had I been experiencing any issues when new/stock.
#13
Team Owner
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Co-winner 2020 C4 of the Year - Modified
2018 Corvette of Year Finalist
2017 C4 of Year
2016 C7 of Year Finalist
St. Jude Donor '09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16-'17-'18-'19-'20
There is no need for a mass recall. They've released the TSB (attachment above) to dealerships so they know exactly how to cure the problem if a customer experiences it. They'll be able to get you taken care of, or you can perform it yourself since it's fairly simple. I would personally rather have the adjustments documented though so I would have just let them do it had I been experiencing any issues when new/stock.
I do know how to do that, but I rather have the dealer do it. If it had no warranty, I'll get in there right away.
#14
Burning Brakes
i have exactly the same problem! is it from the shifter or the tranny? i already faced this problem before then it started to not go in the 2nd at all, under 2500rpm , but i got the dealer change the whole gear box under warranty, and know after 2k miles it came back, is there any solution ?
#15
Le Mans Master
i have exactly the same problem! is it from the shifter or the tranny? i already faced this problem before then it started to not go in the 2nd at all, under 2500rpm , but i got the dealer change the whole gear box under warranty, and know after 2k miles it came back, is there any solution ?
Last edited by Kracka; 01-04-2016 at 03:51 PM.
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PaulMEdwards (12-22-2020)
#16
Safety Car
I have had an MGW since March of last year. Its 100% better shifter than stock but mine will now rev match for no reason. I had my shop check my install and they found no issue. It does not do it all the time but it will rev when I let the clutch out and the trans is in neutral and I'm stopping. Very odd.
#17
i have exactly the same problem! is it from the shifter or the tranny? i already faced this problem before then it started to not go in the 2nd at all, under 2500rpm , but i got the dealer change the whole gear box under warranty, and know after 2k miles it came back, is there any solution ?
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PaulMEdwards (12-22-2020)
#18
Burning Brakes
Are you sure you're not just experiencing the 2nd gear skip shift? That's exactly what that sounds like to me. These cars are programmed to skip from 1st gear to 4th (locks out 2nd gear) when shifting at lower RPMs. It is a fuel economy feature. Look on the dash or in the heads up display when you try to shift at that lower RPM...it should display a quick message saying "shift into 4th for fuel economy" (or something like that). If you are just experiencing the skip shift feature, there are 2 ways of getting around it. One is to just run 1st gear out a little more before shifting into 2nd, and the other is to get the skip shift eliminator....they cost about $20 and install in seconds (after jacking the car up).
#19
Team Owner
The MGW does come with an alignment tool. To get it set correctly.
Last edited by 3 Z06ZR1; 01-05-2016 at 10:22 PM.
#20