Headers question?
#1
Headers question?
Im gone install some long tube Texas speed headers and i wanted to now how hard is it to install them? And what parts of the engine do you have to remove to get to them ?
#2
Le Mans Master
#4
Le Mans Master
You have to disconnect the supply and return oil lines under the car, remove the fuse box, some take off the valve covers.
You also have to lift the motor a little bit....
It's not a simple DIY project. It takes a full day.
You also have to lift the motor a little bit....
It's not a simple DIY project. It takes a full day.
#5
#6
Hi Jesus
Thanks for the purchase, you're going to love them.
We have installed a few on dry sumps cars with not much of an issue. Each header is different, and each person does it there own way.
You do need to remove the dry sump lines, to put it up on the passenger side. I also removed the valve covers to make it easier to get the header bolts.
We did not remove the fuse box or lift the engine at all. We didn't see any reason to. The put up in there pretty easy without lifting the engine.
Thanks for the purchase, you're going to love them.
We have installed a few on dry sumps cars with not much of an issue. Each header is different, and each person does it there own way.
You do need to remove the dry sump lines, to put it up on the passenger side. I also removed the valve covers to make it easier to get the header bolts.
We did not remove the fuse box or lift the engine at all. We didn't see any reason to. The put up in there pretty easy without lifting the engine.
#7
Melting Slicks
My buddy and I put headers on our cars. We installed the ARH mid-length which probably are about the same level of difficulty. It really is helpful to have a lift because we were going up and down many times.
Unbolt negative cable from battery. If you are messing around with the starter cables, you MUST take off the negative cable. Never touch the positive if you can help it. Bad things happen if you accidently ground a wrench while taking off the positive cable when the negative is still connected.
On the passengers side, had to remove the fuse box. Don't know how someone could get to the spark plugs, wires, and stock header bolts without doing that.
Took off the serpentine belt and unbolted alternator to get it out of the way to remove the front valve cover bolts.
Removed the valve cover with coils.
Removed the starter. Could not get the header in from the bottom or top with the starter in place. No biggie.
Remove the tunnel plate.
Drain the oil and remove the dry sump lines. Very easy to do. One bolt per line. But if you can plug the lines and sump so oil does not drip out, that would be nice. I ruined a set of shorts because of the oil dripping out.
We did NOT have to lift the motor.
Unbolt negative cable from battery. If you are messing around with the starter cables, you MUST take off the negative cable. Never touch the positive if you can help it. Bad things happen if you accidently ground a wrench while taking off the positive cable when the negative is still connected.
On the passengers side, had to remove the fuse box. Don't know how someone could get to the spark plugs, wires, and stock header bolts without doing that.
Took off the serpentine belt and unbolted alternator to get it out of the way to remove the front valve cover bolts.
Removed the valve cover with coils.
Removed the starter. Could not get the header in from the bottom or top with the starter in place. No biggie.
Remove the tunnel plate.
Drain the oil and remove the dry sump lines. Very easy to do. One bolt per line. But if you can plug the lines and sump so oil does not drip out, that would be nice. I ruined a set of shorts because of the oil dripping out.
We did NOT have to lift the motor.
#8
My buddy and I put headers on our cars. We installed the ARH mid-length which probably are about the same level of difficulty. It really is helpful to have a lift because we were going up and down many times. Unbolt negative cable from battery. If you are messing around with the starter cables, you MUST take off the negative cable. Never touch the positive if you can help it. Bad things happen if you accidently ground a wrench while taking off the positive cable when the negative is still connected. On the passengers side, had to remove the fuse box. Don't know how someone could get to the spark plugs, wires, and stock header bolts without doing that. Took off the serpentine belt and unbolted alternator to get it out of the way to remove the front valve cover bolts. Removed the valve cover with coils. Removed the starter. Could not get the header in from the bottom or top with the starter in place. No biggie. Remove the tunnel plate. Drain the oil and remove the dry sump lines. Very easy to do. One bolt per line. But if you can plug the lines and sump so oil does not drip out, that would be nice. I ruined a set of shorts because of the oil dripping out. We did NOT have to lift the motor.
#10
Intermediate
You will have to be prepared to deal with the interference between the collectors and the center tunnel cover.
I did have access to a lift and a GM Master Tech who has done hundreds on header installs, though this was his first C7. I got the impression the C7 install was easier than the C5s and C6s he was used to working on.
#12
Headers
Hi Jesus
Thanks for the purchase, you're going to love them.
We have installed a few on dry sumps cars with not much of an issue. Each header is different, and each person does it there own way.
You do need to remove the dry sump lines, to put it up on the passenger side. I also removed the valve covers to make it easier to get the header bolts.
We did not remove the fuse box or lift the engine at all. We didn't see any reason to. The put up in there pretty easy without lifting the engine.
Thanks for the purchase, you're going to love them.
We have installed a few on dry sumps cars with not much of an issue. Each header is different, and each person does it there own way.
You do need to remove the dry sump lines, to put it up on the passenger side. I also removed the valve covers to make it easier to get the header bolts.
We did not remove the fuse box or lift the engine at all. We didn't see any reason to. The put up in there pretty easy without lifting the engine.
#13
Burning Brakes
#14
But will throwing a code because of the second O2 sensors be detrimental to anything? Does the ECU operate in open mode or retard performance (timing, etc) when these codes are resident?
#15
Melting Slicks
However, if you live in an county that requires an annual inspection any CEL is an automatic fail.
Last edited by RussM05; 02-26-2015 at 07:40 AM.