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You have an open in the circuit somewhere. (check the fuse in your add-a-circuit first,) Then go over all your wiring.
Is your add-a-circuit in the correct fuse location? (see attached picture)
It will work if your circuit is complete with the switch closed
Ed
yes, it is. i have checked continuity
in the switch and the wiring, all is good. maybe the 16 s with the options in the system don t work with this. and i misunderstood i think.
i have the npp, with options of stealth and all the others in the infotainment centre, i thought this may keep the afm valves open all the time, and now, i know it doesn t affect them in any way. not sure what i was thinking at the time, with my *** i guess.
Last edited by walleyejack; 02-17-2017 at 10:27 PM.
i have the npp, with options of stealth and all the others in the infotainment centre, i thought this may keep the afm valves open all the time, and now, i know it doesn t affect them in any way. not sure what i was thinking at the time, with my *** i guess.
There was no change after 2015. This system worked on my 2015 Z51, and it works on my 2017 Grand Sport. 2014s used the same fuse location but the fuse was numbered as 43.
If you have your sound settings to stealth mode the valves should stay closed until you flip the switch to open the circuit. Of course this is assuming your engine is running.
When you pull the fuse the valves should remain open at all times.
Edit:
I now see that you are referring to the AFM valves. The fuse for those valves cannot be pulled without throwing a CEL light.
Ed
Last edited by Old Yellow; 02-17-2017 at 10:44 PM.
There was no change after 2015. This system worked on my 2015 Z51, and it works on my 2017 Grand Sport. 2014s used the same fuse location but the fuse was numbered as 42.
If you have your sound settings to stealth mode the valves should stay closed until you flip the switch to open the circuit. Of course this is assuming your engine is running.
When you pull the fuse the valves should remain open at all times.
Ed
i agree with all that.i have it set to stealth and the switch makes no difference, there is something simple i think. i tried another circuit and short wires and stood beside the fuse panel and flipped it back and forth, moved the spade around, the fuse around, to no avail. i m baffled on this one. and i don t get frustrated easily..
you leave it in stealth mode, and use the switch after that i understand, correct ? that is where i have it set on the screen.
i m not worried about the afm valves, they are out of the picture.
Last edited by walleyejack; 02-17-2017 at 10:47 PM.
i have the npp, with options of stealth and all the others in the infotainment centre, i thought this may keep the afm valves open all the time, and now, i know it doesn t affect them in any way. not sure what i was thinking at the time, with my *** i guess.
Now you mention the AFM valves. They are not affected by fuse 42. If you pull the fuse for the AFM valves you will throw a CEL light, and set a code.
i know Ed. am not concerned about the afm valves. that is something else altogether.
You mentioned the AFM valves inn your post #123, that's why I brought it up.
The NPP valves are spring loaded open. If they are open with the engine off, then with the fuse pulled, there is no way they could get an electric signal to close the valves with the engine running.
Now if you're trying to keep them closed all the time then that is another matter. That can only be accomplished with a very sophisticated signal generator.
Ed
Last edited by Old Yellow; 02-17-2017 at 11:08 PM.
Yes i am trying to keep them open all the time without pulling the fuse, but wanting to close them when need be, this is why i am trying to install the switch, unsuccessfully i might add. In my c6 it took me 20 minutes at most
Forgett the afm valves. Will try again this am.
Another thing is when pull the fuse from circuit and put in the other slot it goes into stealth, switch does not matter, put it back in slot Theta says, opens them uo and switch doesn t matter.
Anyway, there is no question about how this one works. Two modes: 1) Switch on, power flowing, valves closed. 2) Switch off, power not flowing, valves open. That's all there is to it. It's the same as if you got out of the car to pull Fuse 41/42 or put it back in - though this is more practical at 60mph!
Just had a question about Theta's original post.
So by doing this mod with no power the valve is opened, but with power the valve is closed, but with power the valve is now controlled by the computer so with power applied to the valve the computer can now open and close it when ever it feels like it?
Just had a question about Theta's original post.
So by doing this mod with no power the valve is opened, but with power the valve is closed, but with power the valve is now controlled by the computer so with power applied to the valve the computer can now open and close it when ever it feels like it?
Correct. This is how mine works on my '15 Z51 and '17 GS.
I can either leave them open all the time, or let the computer control it.
I just wanted to leave a note here for others to clarify. If you use a resistor to dim the LED, put it between the Ground terminal on the switch and a grounded bolt on the car. These grounded bolts are noted in the pictures from Theta with a green ground symbol.
Here are my pictures from adding a resistor to the ground wire. I went a little overkill on the heat shrink but I wanted to eliminate any possibility of an issue.
Great write-up. I pondered this switch vs remote control method. I opted for the remote method (DIY not $89 purchased unit) due to ease of returning to stock fast. ; ). Had it not been me worrying about a dealer giving me **** I would have gone this route.
As we are dealing with voltage, and additional circuit control, I have to put the normal liability clause here.
Neither myself, nor any member of CorvetteForum.com / IB, shall be held liable for any damage or other issue resulting from improper use of these instructions, or from any defect or deficiency in said instructions. No warranty is expressed or implied on the products shown in this thread. It is the responsibility of the reader to take appropriate safety precautions when following any or all parts of these illustrations. No rights are reserved on any materials posted in this thread, and all derivations or additional postings are property of the individual posters/owners.
This has been a long time coming... I had this project all done back last May, but just put it on the back burner. Then the car went to go get built, etc. I'm sorry I've not gotten this out there sooner, but I do hope those of you who have PM'ed me about this are happy with the results!
In yet another attempt to be different (some call it innovative, I call it crazy), I went through several wireless remote relays trying to find something that satisfied my requirements. Sadly, only one out of four was even halfway reliable (but slow to respond), and I wanted something that would work 100% of the time, and immediately. Few of you know how loud these cars can get once they're stroked and straight-through. Even clutched in at 1000rpm makes the ole' butthole pucker passing by a highway patrol car.
Let me emphasize that this is not nearly as hard as it seems - it takes a little work, but what worthwhile mods don't on our C7s? Depending on your skills with wiring, and dis-assembly, this could take you two hours, or two days (let's hope not). Go at your own pace - since you're tapping into the NPP circuit (and essentially moving control of Fuse 41/42 into the cabin), you'll certainly want to make sure you're not rushing it.
Again, though, nothing is overly difficult. I've removed the soldering requirements from the fuse box mod, and gone with an Add-A-Fuse approach now that they are available. I know a few of you will say "But can't we just shove the two wires into the sockets and mash them down with a blown fuse?"... Well, yes, you can, but I'm not going to endorse it.
Soldering has come and gone several times in this DIY... The switch mounting location is interfered with when the entertainment screen moves down. This prohibits the use of disconnects, and requires the switch leads to be trimmed and soldered. While this is a far better connection, if you would prefer to keep this completely solderless, we can look into an additional switch location.
Let me know what you guys think - this may eventually go into the How-To section, but for now, I'm going to keep it as a DIY to see how everyone feels about it. I feel that it's a great, cheap, simple mod to force the NPP valves into doing exactly what we want (without any risk or damage to the system or subsystems [CCM, etc.]), but there's still an enormous amount of confusion and misinformation out there about how NPP actually works. I don't want to get into that here, so let's please keep this focused on the mod, itself. xp800 has done a great job keeping up with all of those questions in his thread, as it seemed like every time I would post, three people would try to contradict what the facts were. I had to finally give up, which usually isn't my style.
Anyway, there is no question about how this one works. Two modes: 1) Switch on, power flowing, valves closed. 2) Switch off, power not flowing, valves open. That's all there is to it. It's the same as if you got out of the car to pull Fuse 41/42 or put it back in - though this is more practical at 60mph!
This does not, will not, and can not affect the AFM valves. That's a problem you either fix another way or live with it.
Additional positives to this mod worth mentioning are that the console panel I've chosen to use is relatively inexpensive (~$50), and the location is near-perfect. The choice of switch can be left up to you - if you want a lighted 12V switch, great. Normal no-frills switch more to your liking? Go for it! Any SPST (no, not SPDT, not DPDT, nothing more than a simple SPST) rated at 12V 20A or higher will work. Routing the wires through the firewall isn't awful - it just takes a bit of effort if you've not done it before. Best part of this is that it is 100% reversible - returning to stock simply requires removing the wires, and replacing the factory fuse/panel.
I will create this thread as I've been doing with my DIYs for a while now by first posting this introduction, and then using the next few posts to give a walkthrough with several pictures, etc. A parts list is provided in the next post, and everything can be purchased and installed in the same day - with additional options listed to order from eBay or Amazon if an AutoZone is out of stock on some items.
Special thanks to xp800 for the original thread, and tograndpawmosesfor the input leading to the final revision, and for the pictures of the new routing option, which is far easier than the original requiring the fender liner removal, etc.
Dude, thank you for such a Great and Complete article on adding this control system
02-17-2017, 10:22 PM
