DIY: Add NPP Switch - True Manual On/Off Valve Control
#41
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St. Jude Donor '14-'15
The last time I looked into it, we were talking about using a rather large PWM generator on a 12v relay. Kind of stepped out after that, so I'll need to open that back up and look around.
#42
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St. Jude Donor '14-'15
Finally cleaned up the parts section, so that's looking good - alternatives added, and the list looks complete. Back to full emphasis on the wiring guide, then back again to how to wire in the resistor - that's going to be fun without soldering.
#43
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I will take a look into the progress of that. I have to remember back to what we discussed regarding how the valves acted when exposed to voltage directly.
The last time I looked into it, we were talking about using a rather large PWM generator on a 12v relay. Kind of stepped out after that, so I'll need to open that back up and look around.
The last time I looked into it, we were talking about using a rather large PWM generator on a 12v relay. Kind of stepped out after that, so I'll need to open that back up and look around.
#45
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pardon my ignorance, but ive seen this topic develop since the '14 dropped and the 'word' all along was that you couldn't do it like you could the c6 and here i see it is basically identical situation, remove fuse, add switch (and fuse).
what did i miss? sorry for not reading all pages.
now what I need to know is how to add or activate the wiring for a non npp car to run npp mufflers please and thanks
what did i miss? sorry for not reading all pages.
now what I need to know is how to add or activate the wiring for a non npp car to run npp mufflers please and thanks
#46
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St. Jude Donor '14-'15
pardon my ignorance, but ive seen this topic develop since the '14 dropped and the 'word' all along was that you couldn't do it like you could the c6 and here i see it is basically identical situation, remove fuse, add switch (and fuse).
what did i miss? sorry for not reading all pages.
what did i miss? sorry for not reading all pages.
I could do about 20 of these mods in the time it's taken me to do the write-up. Pictures, descriptions, part numbers, etc. are all a pretty big pain to organize into one coherent thread that anyone here can easily follow. Sometimes it's just a matter of sitting down and copying everything from your brain onto paper (or bits in this case) - I'm sure you know this from your catch can instructions, etc.
.
Last edited by Theta; 04-01-2015 at 02:45 PM.
#47
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Have you looked at the installation video of the "Curb Alert"? It shows routing wires from the under hood fuse box back into the cabin without removing any bolts. Look at it from the 8:45 through the 9:30.
Last edited by grandpawmoses; 04-01-2015 at 03:25 PM.
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St. Jude Donor '14-'15
Perhaps I can have this as an option for people who don't want to remove the wheel liner, as it will also require the wheel to come out (and a jack needs to be added to the parts required list in doing that).
I guess it comes down to what people would rather do - spend more time on the wheel well/firewall method, or less time on the 'outside the car' method. Always compromises with any method, unfortunately...
#49
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I've seen that method used on a few different installs now, but I loathe the idea of sending voltage around body panels (even when hidden) instead of using proper routing through the firewall. It's a little harder to get it through the passenger side opening of that area, but not impossible.
Perhaps I can have this as an option for people who don't want to remove the wheel liner, as it will also require the wheel to come out (and a jack needs to be added to the parts required list in doing that).
I guess it comes down to what people would rather do - spend more time on the wheel well/firewall method, or less time on the 'outside the car' method. Always compromises with any method, unfortunately...
Perhaps I can have this as an option for people who don't want to remove the wheel liner, as it will also require the wheel to come out (and a jack needs to be added to the parts required list in doing that).
I guess it comes down to what people would rather do - spend more time on the wheel well/firewall method, or less time on the 'outside the car' method. Always compromises with any method, unfortunately...
One more thing I thought of.....when you plug the "add a circuit" into the fuse box, it could plug in one of two different ways (180 degree rotation). If plugged in the wrong way, the fuse won't be on the +12V lead, that is, the fuse won't be on the battery side of the switch. I guess I said that right. The circuit would function correctly either way but the fuse would be in place after the added switch circuit.
(Maybe I better go sit down).
Last edited by grandpawmoses; 04-01-2015 at 06:30 PM.
#50
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St. Jude Donor '14-'15
One more thing I thought of.....when you plug the "add a circuit" into the fuse box, it could plug in one of two different ways (180 degree rotation). If plugged in the wrong way, the fuse won't be on the +12V lead, that is, the fuse won't be on the battery side of the switch. I guess I said that right. The circuit would function correctly either way but the fuse would be in place after the added switch circuit.
(Maybe I better go sit down).
(Maybe I better go sit down).
#51
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St. Jude Donor '14-'15
Good news also on the NPP conversion front - looks like I'll be able to move forward on that research shortly. I have everything drawn up and the proof of concept completed.
Now, to get everything in front of me with the right equipment...
But first, I need to finish up this install thread!
Now, to get everything in front of me with the right equipment...
But first, I need to finish up this install thread!
#52
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Absolutely valid thought. Before posting those installation pictures, I tested the circuit to find the 'common' +12v, and the left side is hot. This is much better than having the right hot, as that would really have caused some ugly routing issues flipping the assembly upside down!
GPM
#53
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Sorry if this sounds dumb, but how does this mod differ from the sound management options offered in the driving mode menu on the touchscreen?
Thanks,
Charlie
Thanks,
Charlie
#54
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St. Jude Donor '14-'15
Sorry, doing that now - spent yesterday designing a circuit and buying new lab equipment to make the non-NPP to NPP mod (and in the process, a 3-position full-control circuit for the racing guys) a reality.
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Well, I ran in to a problem with the switch location. I had to order the "add-a-circuit" so I decided to go ahead and install the wiring and the switch (I chose the same switch and location you are using). The problem is that when the infotainment screen goes down, it hits the switch. When the infotainment screen down, there's 1/2 inch clearance from it to the little side panel where I mounted the switch. I don't see much room to move the switch down (allowing for the console left side trim overlapping the little side panel). I'm going to take a fresh look at it in the morning & see what I come up with.
#60
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St. Jude Donor '14-'15
Well, I ran in to a problem with the switch location. I had to order the "add-a-circuit" so I decided to go ahead and install the wiring and the switch (I chose the same switch and location you are using). The problem is that when the infotainment screen goes down, it hits the switch. When the infotainment screen down, there's 1/2 inch clearance from it to the little side panel where I mounted the switch. I don't see much room to move the switch down (allowing for the console left side trim overlapping the little side panel). I'm going to take a fresh look at it in the morning & see what I come up with.
That's that kind of thing that makes these take forever - we find out weird stuff like this along the way. The screen shouldn't be that far back, but it looks like it turns in a bit.