How do you break in your brakes? (Pics included)
04-25-2015, 05:29 AM
#2
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Hey all,
I have lots of questions about brakes.
I need new brakes. When I replace them, how should one break them in for your first track day?
I have included pics of my brakes after a few track days. They look pretty tore up. I'm regretting not getting the carbon ceramic now.
Is is possible to upgrade from regular brakes (like mine) to the carbon ceramic? My car is a lease, so I will be turning it in in 3 years.
How long do carbon ceramic brake pads last, and how much do they cost?
If I can't upgrade to carbon ceramic, do you suggest I upgrade to different rotors/pads?
I look forward to your responses
I have lots of questions about brakes.
I need new brakes. When I replace them, how should one break them in for your first track day?
I have included pics of my brakes after a few track days. They look pretty tore up. I'm regretting not getting the carbon ceramic now.
Is is possible to upgrade from regular brakes (like mine) to the carbon ceramic? My car is a lease, so I will be turning it in in 3 years.
How long do carbon ceramic brake pads last, and how much do they cost?
If I can't upgrade to carbon ceramic, do you suggest I upgrade to different rotors/pads?
I look forward to your responses
04-25-2015, 07:55 AM
#3
Team Owner
Are you talking Ceramic pads?
First is how brakes work. The braking force does not come from friction between the rotor and the brake pad, or at least if you think of it that way it will help in understanding how it works.
It comes from friction between the brake pad material on the pad, and the brake pad material that has been transferred to the rotor.
Ceramic pads are not an aggressive pad material so they will never clean off the other pad material from the stock brakes.
A true track pad is more aggressive and will clean off the stock pad material and transfer its material to the rotor. So you need to get a good even application of brake pad material onto the rotor first.
I bed in brakes I follow a procedure similar to this:
http://www.zeckhausen.com/bedding_in_brakes.htm
But that will only work when going from a more aggressive pad from a less aggressive. If you goto a less aggressive pad eventually you will end up with judder and some other issues because the new material will sit on top of the old material or you will unevenly wear the pads themselves.
That all being said I'd never track a car with ceramic pads, only thing they are good for is keeping your wheels clean, not stopping.
First is how brakes work. The braking force does not come from friction between the rotor and the brake pad, or at least if you think of it that way it will help in understanding how it works.
It comes from friction between the brake pad material on the pad, and the brake pad material that has been transferred to the rotor.
Ceramic pads are not an aggressive pad material so they will never clean off the other pad material from the stock brakes.
A true track pad is more aggressive and will clean off the stock pad material and transfer its material to the rotor. So you need to get a good even application of brake pad material onto the rotor first.
I bed in brakes I follow a procedure similar to this:
http://www.zeckhausen.com/bedding_in_brakes.htm
But that will only work when going from a more aggressive pad from a less aggressive. If you goto a less aggressive pad eventually you will end up with judder and some other issues because the new material will sit on top of the old material or you will unevenly wear the pads themselves.
That all being said I'd never track a car with ceramic pads, only thing they are good for is keeping your wheels clean, not stopping.
Last edited by NoOne; 04-25-2015 at 07:58 AM.
04-25-2015, 08:36 AM
#4
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St. Jude Donor '11,'13
Hey all,
I have lots of questions about brakes.
I need new brakes. When I replace them, how should one break them in for your first track day?
I have included pics of my brakes after a few track days. They look pretty tore up. I'm regretting not getting the carbon ceramic now.
Is is possible to upgrade from regular brakes (like mine) to the carbon ceramic? My car is a lease, so I will be turning it in in 3 years.
How long do carbon ceramic brake pads last, and how much do they cost?
If I can't upgrade to carbon ceramic, do you suggest I upgrade to different rotors/pads?
I look forward to your responses
I have lots of questions about brakes.
I need new brakes. When I replace them, how should one break them in for your first track day?
I have included pics of my brakes after a few track days. They look pretty tore up. I'm regretting not getting the carbon ceramic now.
Is is possible to upgrade from regular brakes (like mine) to the carbon ceramic? My car is a lease, so I will be turning it in in 3 years.
How long do carbon ceramic brake pads last, and how much do they cost?
If I can't upgrade to carbon ceramic, do you suggest I upgrade to different rotors/pads?
I look forward to your responses
These pads come Pre bed (broken in)
Carbotech™ XP12™
Another highly successful XP™ series compound with an excellent initial bite, torque and fade resistance over and above the XP10™ compound. XP12™ has temperature range of 250°F to 1850°F+ (121°C to 1010°C+). The XP12™ has that excellent Carbotech™ release and modulation that has made all other Carbotech™ compounds so successful. The XP12™ is more rotor aggressive than XP10™, but compared to the competition the XP12™ is still very rotor friendly. XP12™ is NOT recommended for use as a daily driven street pad due to possible elevated levels of dust and noise.
Carbotech™ XP10™
When Carbotech™ unleashed the XP10™ to the general public it immediately gathered multiple regional, divisional, and national championships. The XP10™ has a very strong initial bite with a coefficient of friction and rotor friendliness unmatched in the industry. Fade resistance is in excess of 1475°F (801°C). XP10™ still maintains the highly praised release, excellent modulation and rotor friendliness that have made all Carbotech™ compounds so successful. Carbotech™ XP10™ is not recommended as a daily-driven street pad due to possible elevated levels of dust and noise.
__________________
Adam Adelstein
Amp’D Autosport.com
Internet's largest retailer of Carbotech Performance Brake Pads.
PH:216-780-8825.
Email: sales@ampdautosport.com
Web Site & Direct ordering http://ampdautosport.com/
All major CC and Pay Pal accepted.
Check out Promo code:z28
Adam Adelstein
Amp’D Autosport.com
Internet's largest retailer of Carbotech Performance Brake Pads.
PH:216-780-8825.
Email: sales@ampdautosport.com
Web Site & Direct ordering http://ampdautosport.com/
All major CC and Pay Pal accepted.
Check out Promo code:z28
Last edited by Adam@Amp'dAutosport.com; 04-25-2015 at 08:40 AM.
04-25-2015, 11:44 AM
#5
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Carbon ceramics are much less prone to brake fade under aggressive circumstances as long as you have properly burnished them. As for BBK's, Stoptech has a good kit out. I am going off what I have read though as I don't personally have a BBK on my car.
04-25-2015, 01:54 PM
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Are you talking Ceramic pads?
First is how brakes work. The braking force does not come from friction between the rotor and the brake pad, or at least if you think of it that way it will help in understanding how it works.
It comes from friction between the brake pad material on the pad, and the brake pad material that has been transferred to the rotor.
Ceramic pads are not an aggressive pad material so they will never clean off the other pad material from the stock brakes.
A true track pad is more aggressive and will clean off the stock pad material and transfer its material to the rotor. So you need to get a good even application of brake pad material onto the rotor first.
I bed in brakes I follow a procedure similar to this:
http://www.zeckhausen.com/bedding_in_brakes.htm
But that will only work when going from a more aggressive pad from a less aggressive. If you goto a less aggressive pad eventually you will end up with judder and some other issues because the new material will sit on top of the old material or you will unevenly wear the pads themselves.
That all being said I'd never track a car with ceramic pads, only thing they are good for is keeping your wheels clean, not stopping.
First is how brakes work. The braking force does not come from friction between the rotor and the brake pad, or at least if you think of it that way it will help in understanding how it works.
It comes from friction between the brake pad material on the pad, and the brake pad material that has been transferred to the rotor.
Ceramic pads are not an aggressive pad material so they will never clean off the other pad material from the stock brakes.
A true track pad is more aggressive and will clean off the stock pad material and transfer its material to the rotor. So you need to get a good even application of brake pad material onto the rotor first.
I bed in brakes I follow a procedure similar to this:
http://www.zeckhausen.com/bedding_in_brakes.htm
But that will only work when going from a more aggressive pad from a less aggressive. If you goto a less aggressive pad eventually you will end up with judder and some other issues because the new material will sit on top of the old material or you will unevenly wear the pads themselves.
That all being said I'd never track a car with ceramic pads, only thing they are good for is keeping your wheels clean, not stopping.
04-25-2015, 03:25 PM
#7
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St. Jude Donor '11,'13
I've had 5 track days. I run Michelin pilot sport cup 2's. That's the best tire that I'm aware of.
So is i the pad that causes fade? Or is it the rotor? Or both?
I emailed Carbotech to see if I can order the pads you suggested. I didn't see any 2015 Corvette z06 brakes on their website.
So is i the pad that causes fade? Or is it the rotor? Or both?
I emailed Carbotech to see if I can order the pads you suggested. I didn't see any 2015 Corvette z06 brakes on their website.
It's the pad rotor has nothing to do with fade.. Also, what brake fluid are you using? I highly recommend going with the SRF.
You can order direct from me. I work very closely with Carbotech. Please call me at 216-780-8825 to order. price is below.
XP12 pre bed $371.50 XP10 pre bed $215.70
CASTROL SRF
‘Typical’ New Dry Boiling Point = 310°C (590°F)
‘Wet’ E.R. (Equilibrium Reflux) Boiling Point = 270°C (518°F)
The ultimate racing brake fluid
Castrol SRF Brake Fluid's unique silicon ester technology absorbs less water than conventional glycol ether fluids and prevents the fluid's high temperature performance from deteriorating. Its wet boiling point of 270°C is vastly superior to the minimum requirement of 155°C demanded by the current US DOT 4 specification. Its ability to withstand temperatures in excess of 300°C and superior resistance to the effects of absorbed water have established Castrol SRF Brake Fluid as the world's premier fluid for the hydraulic brakes used in all forms of motorsport and racing.
04-25-2015, 04:07 PM
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It's the pad rotor has nothing to do with fade.. Also, what brake fluid are you using? I highly recommend going with the SRF.
You can order direct from me. I work very closely with Carbotech. Please call me at 216-780-8825 to order. price is below.
XP12 pre bed $371.50 XP10 pre bed $215.70
CASTROL SRF
‘Typical’ New Dry Boiling Point = 310°C (590°F)
‘Wet’ E.R. (Equilibrium Reflux) Boiling Point = 270°C (518°F)
The ultimate racing brake fluid
Castrol SRF Brake Fluid's unique silicon ester technology absorbs less water than conventional glycol ether fluids and prevents the fluid's high temperature performance from deteriorating. Its wet boiling point of 270°C is vastly superior to the minimum requirement of 155°C demanded by the current US DOT 4 specification. Its ability to withstand temperatures in excess of 300°C and superior resistance to the effects of absorbed water have established Castrol SRF Brake Fluid as the world's premier fluid for the hydraulic brakes used in all forms of motorsport and racing.
You can order direct from me. I work very closely with Carbotech. Please call me at 216-780-8825 to order. price is below.
XP12 pre bed $371.50 XP10 pre bed $215.70
CASTROL SRF
‘Typical’ New Dry Boiling Point = 310°C (590°F)
‘Wet’ E.R. (Equilibrium Reflux) Boiling Point = 270°C (518°F)
The ultimate racing brake fluid
Castrol SRF Brake Fluid's unique silicon ester technology absorbs less water than conventional glycol ether fluids and prevents the fluid's high temperature performance from deteriorating. Its wet boiling point of 270°C is vastly superior to the minimum requirement of 155°C demanded by the current US DOT 4 specification. Its ability to withstand temperatures in excess of 300°C and superior resistance to the effects of absorbed water have established Castrol SRF Brake Fluid as the world's premier fluid for the hydraulic brakes used in all forms of motorsport and racing.
XP10 pre bed $215.70 - Same question. Does this cover two tires or one?
04-25-2015, 09:25 PM
#9
Team Owner
Ceramic pads are people who like clean wheels.
I don't have enough experience with carbon ceramic brakes to make a comment. Technically yes they should be superior but a lot of people who race professionally say if your paying for the stuff yourself you'll go through a whole lotta regular brakes before you come to the cost of a true carbon ceramic setup if it did not come on the car.