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Set me straight on aftermarket wheel options

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Old 05-22-2015, 08:50 PM
  #61  
4GS7
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Originally Posted by B Stead
Front, 265/35-18, 18 x 9.5, 56mm to 52mm
Front, 275/30-19, 19 x 9.5, 56mm to 52mm
Rear, 305/30-19, 19 x 11, 79mm to 75mm

That setup doesn't require any suspension changes.


Now take a look at the Volk wheel setup in the posts above. That car is lowered to tuck the tops of the tires. It's a very well known technique. (But don't lower with the lowering bolts because that gives up spring pre-load. Coilovers with stiffer springs are needed for a setup like that.).


As for the personal shot, I am the developer of a tire and wheel fitment application. It uses wheel offset, tire section width from the specs, assumes or requires that the tire is on the spec width wheel, and compares to the previous setup.

Also, I work with autocross setups and that's a lot of experience
.
Until someone makes coilovers that come with MSRC dampers, pass. Also, all this talk about pre-load (which has zero effect on handling AND springs will still preloaded at full droop), how about not cranking your control arms over and placing yourself too high in the camber curve?

$2995.00

Last edited by 4GS7; 05-23-2015 at 12:40 AM.
Old 05-22-2015, 09:34 PM
  #62  
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Originally Posted by B Stead
Front, 265/35-18, 18 x 9.5, 56mm to 52mm
Front, 275/30-19, 19 x 9.5, 56mm to 52mm
Rear, 305/30-19, 19 x 11, 79mm to 75mm

That setup doesn't require any suspension changes.


Now take a look at the Volk wheel setup in the posts above. That car is lowered to tuck the tops of the tires. It's a very well known technique. (But don't lower with the lowering bolts because that gives up spring pre-load. Coilovers with stiffer springs are needed for a setup like that.).


No, it's not lowered to "tuck the top of tires", would you stop saying that...Dude it's called N E G A T I V E C A M B E R, stop referring to it as just tucking the top of the tire. The car is lowered just to be lowered, it's not lowered to fit the wheels dude.

And no, the wheels are NOT "tucked" as you like to ingnorantly refer to it as, this C7 is running within factory camber specs, I guarantee it. Do you know what that means? Probably not, so I'll explain it to you:

These tires are not running any more negative camber ("tucked" so you understand) than any C7 at stock higher ride height. That means, the top of his tires are at the SAME LOCATION (not leaning more inward) as any other C7 that is not lowered.

Do you not understand that you don't have to lower a car just to get the wheels to "tuck"?? It's called dialing in negative camber, and you can do it on a car no matter the ride height. Negative camber and toe out is a byproduct of lowering a car, you don't lower a car to achieve negative camber and toe out...you can do that without lowering the car. Do you not understand this??

Higgs is dead right, it's almost like you are a guy who knows nothing at all about suspensions and wheel fittment through actual use and experience, but you just read a bunch of chit on the Internet and are regurgitating it like diarrhea on this forum.

Originally Posted by B Stead
As for the personal shot, I am the developer of a tire and wheel fitment application. It uses wheel offset, tire section width from the specs, assumes or requires that the tire is on the spec width wheel, and compares to the previous setup.

Also, I work with autocross setups and that's a lot of experience
.
Really? And what fittment application would that be? Funny your application sounds exactly like the one I posted a link to earlier in this thread, and the many on the Internet that are just like it...

Last edited by \Boost Monkey/; 05-22-2015 at 10:04 PM.
Old 05-22-2015, 10:54 PM
  #63  
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Originally Posted by \Boost Monkey/
No, it's not...
You still haven't posted your setups or done anything else even remotely professional.

Just post your setups.

What tire and wheel fitments do you put on the C7 ?
.

Last edited by B Stead; 05-22-2015 at 10:57 PM.
Old 05-23-2015, 12:27 AM
  #64  
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Originally Posted by \Boost Monkey/

Higgs is dead right, it's almost like you are a guy who knows nothing at all about suspensions and wheel fittment through actual use and experience, but you just read a bunch of chit on the Internet and are regurgitating it like diarrhea on this forum.



Really? And what fittment application would that be? Funny your application sounds exactly like the one I posted a link to earlier in this thread, and the many on the Internet that are just like it...
Having looked through his other posts, I can't say I disagree. I get the sense that we're dealing with someone who is either a teenager with some moderate Google-fu or and adult who simply has little no practical experience with cars. My money is on kid who can Google.
Old 05-23-2015, 07:33 AM
  #65  
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Originally Posted by B Stead
You still haven't posted your setups or done anything else even remotely professional.

Just post your setups.

What tire and wheel fitments do you put on the C7 ?
.
I know this is meant for Boost Monkey but I have posted mine several times including pics.

You post yours. Post a picture of your corvette. Then post one with the wheels you installed. Post a picture of yourself holding a torque wrench next to a corvette. Oh, make sure you can prove it's you.....
Old 05-23-2015, 12:45 PM
  #66  
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Originally Posted by B Stead
You still haven't posted your setups or done anything else even remotely professional.

Just post your setups.

What tire and wheel fitments do you put on the C7 ?
.
This thread isn't about me or what I would do, this thread is/was about the OP and the setup that would benefit him based on his criteria. If you go back and read, I clearly offered him multiple suggestions of fitments based on his criteria that would be 100% hassle free and rub free setups.

If you are asking me what setup I will put on my C7 when the time comes, I will more than likely go with a setup that will put me around +10mm outboard from stock setup like the Volk setup shown, and I will dial in a bit of negative camber if I have to if it rubs. I will drop max on stock bolts. I will transfer the stock tire setup over to the new wheels until they are gone, and then prob upsize depending on the offset I decide on. The rears will be a 20x11 et.70-82 depending on what tire widths I plan to run in the future, but whether I go mild stretch (no less than a 285) or correct 305 width. If I decide to keep a stretched narrow tire and never go wider, my setup will be almost exactly like the Volk setup and I'll go with an et70 with a narrow 285. If I decide I want a 305, I'll run an et.79-82 and dial in a bit of camber if I have to depending on tire brand and my cars tolerance. I tend to take a little bit more risk in sizing than some. If I was in the stance crowd, I would be choosing a 275 tire and offsets in the low 60's with some aggressive negative camber. The OP, for instance, wanted a safe setup with only concern of a wide tire being used for traction. Everybody is different.

There are a lot of criteria that vary per person and what their goals are. Your original recommendations show your inexperience in application when you try to lock down recommendations to everybody on the forum (and recommendations that are proven to rub to boot) to a finite wheel size, tire size, and offset. It doesn't work that way. There is ALWAYS a range of wheel sizes, tire sizes, and offsets for every application depending on goals of the user.

When somebody tells me their goals, budget, etc I make recommendations based on individual applications, not broad recommendations to everybody that I plaster all over the forum like you do. You say I am unprofessional...yet what you are doing is extremely unprofessional and misleading to those who don't know better.

Last edited by \Boost Monkey/; 05-23-2015 at 12:49 PM.
Old 05-23-2015, 12:54 PM
  #67  
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Boost monkey and higgs have been very helpful as usual. Good dudes



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