FYREANT

Hmm.. Guess the HP aye? I'll bid $1.00 Bob!

vinnie12345

544

NoOne

Well you get the prize.


544rwhp and 515ft lbs of torque.


I have not seen the graph and that was with the 8lb restrictor plate.


This is a standard Dynojet, no brake or resistance beyond the weight.


I think it is a bit low but until I drive it I'll reserve judgment. Phil tuned it and I know from speaking to him in the past usability is better than outright power numbers. He tends to go for OEM style power delivery and drivability which is what I would prefer.


From what I see on other bone stock dyno's I've seen its off about 20hp and 15ft lbs of torque. Still have not seen the graph and want to see the area under the curve.


No I did not dyno it before hand.


Weather yesterday was stellar so I bet the correction factor is near zero. I should be picking it up around 1pm today and we shall see.

T/A KID

Was this with the standard ECS pulleys?

C7&7

544 is nothing to sneeze at, at all. That's about 140-150 rwhp gain with one mod. Congrats man!

C7&7

Yup, and with the 8psi restrictor plate that he mentions above.

C7&7

Curious if you saw 8psi peak on the dyno? Was he monitoring boost?

10mm_

If you didn't dyno it beforehand on the same dyno in similar air, then your number really doesn't mean that much. You could strap that thing to another dyno and make 600, it's really all about the gains when it comes to dyno numbers.


Post some track vids or street pulls or something!!

3 Z06ZR1

Then if the number is too high then the tune can be too hot and cause trouble. Solid numbers

DOUG @ ECS

Congrats! Great weekend to get it back and enjoy it!

NoOne

So here is my honest review/comments on the kit/install. I'm fairly picky and come from an OEM background so in any car I have ever done going for OEM drive ability and feel is a big deal to me.

The good:

• I forgot the dyno sheets in my wife's car but its like a PD blower. I see over 500ftlbs as soon as the dyno registers and its a flat line to almost 6K. I'll get the dyno sheet but correct was 0, weather was perfect.
• Car drives like stock, completely.
• I assume this is due to added manifold pressure but come off the gas at RPM in high boost and immediately on the brakes the pedal has almost zero travel and they hit hard. Personally to me this is a huge plus. I haven't driven it enough to see if it will replicate but the added brake pressure and pedal feel at high rpm/boost when hitting the brakes hard would be great on the track.
• I was really concerned about traction, but its great. 2nd gear is as fast as 1st and I have no traction problems at all out of first. I just shift as soon as the tires start to slip in 1st, around 4000rpm. Just the stock tires with 12K miles on them. It will hold 65 percent of the time in 2nd gear at WOT, the other times you get a little slip but its not bad enough to lift.
• If this is the quiet BOV I'd hate to hear the loud one. I have to check and make sure they sent me the right one. It is LOUD.

The "Bad"

• The cooling fans run at 100 percent, all the time. It was barely 70 degree's today, no AC. They started running at 100 percent less than 2 miles from the shop. After driving 9 miles on the freeway at 80mph I get off the ramp and they are blasting. I do not find that an acceptable situation. They are extremely loud. You never notice with the AC on because the windows are up but it sounds like something is wrong and I bet the duty cycle on those fans are not meant for 100 percent run time.

The Maybe

• I smell oil...I thought this was fixed but there is a decent oil odor, however I'll wait a few days and see if it clears up since it could be from the install itself. It does not smell completely like burning motor oil and the SC was delivered without oil so they filled it on the car, hopefully they just spilled it. Sounds strange but smells like burning 2 stroke oil instead of heavier motor oil.

If the fans were not at 100 percent it would be perfect. I understand there is a lack of interest in talking about negative aspects of anything in a sale but I would have gotten a 160 degree stat, a Dewitts, or a catch can ahead of time if I was told that was necessary.


Doug suggested a 160 degree thermostat after I spoke to him about the fans...not being informed of this ahead of time does irk me because the addition of a $50 part makes a huge difference in the impression of the money spent and the product delivered.



Not sure if it needs anything more than the thermostat but I'd do a rad if it needed it.



What is most annoying to me about it is I live 3 miles from LPE and had I gotten the car earlier in the day might have been able to pick one up and pop it in. It is barely 70 today so its not like I'm driving in 100 degree weather and the fans are blasting.


As far as the oil issue this shop has not installed a ton of ECS kits on C7's and I believe some of the routing has changed so I want to first confirm its done right by the shop to see if the oil is being blown into the intake, or if it will just go away assuming they may have had a spill when they were filling it.


Overall the car is great. The kit install is clean but it seems to be more to do with the design. Not saying the shop did not do a good job but its setup in a way that anyone could do a clean install.


Power is great, OEM drive ability with not a single negative thing I can find.


I also did the Carvaggio D wheel and the Cowboy sound deadening kit which were both huge improvements. I hear nothing from the back end at all except the exhaust.


The wheel makes the car and now with the higher quality leather in the wheel the inexpensiveness of the rest of the interior materials really shows, so seats and interior panels will be next.

Gold Z

I had the same oil smell in mine. A friend of mine who has an ECS kit on his C7 A6 also has that oil smell.

C7-Beast

If your fans are running 100% of the time in 70 degree weather, someting is not right. My car with the same SC without restrictor plate (and Meth and headers)and stock T-stat does not have the fans running full all the time. I've been driving in 80-90 degree outside temps.

NoOne

I agree.

I'm also wondering about the venting sound when driving it. Coasting in any gear(M7) it is constantly venting, and its pretty loud. Not sure if that's normal or not.

I would assume there is a muffler/breather/recirc setup. The shop lost a few part they had to find again so maybe the breather on the BOV was not installed.

Its dark out so tomorrow I'll take a look at it and see what I can find. I thought ECS did not do a scoop either but they formed a scoop for mine in front.

Really if the fans were quiet the car would be perfect. I stayed away from NA because I did not want to change the characteristics of the engine and its feel, their kit does exactly what I wanted. Keeps it the same feel but more of it.

If anything the car is pretty docile to drive. I'm really surprised as how well it handles the torque, even in first gear.

I am trying to get a hold of a ODBII Scanner that will show live data. I bought one at AutoZone that connects to the phone but it won't work on the C7.

Not sure if there is a reading for fan speed or not but I'd get one of them is not running. When I say they are running full time, I don't mean like when the AC is on, its much louder.

NoOne

I just started the read through the directions to find out where the BOV is and first directions are to drain the RAD...wonder if they never burped it right?

C7-Beast

If you have the Tial Q BOV it is loud when you get to 2k rpm while not under load. That is totally normal. You can get the Qr which is much quieter. I like mine loud so I really like the Tial Q.

Pulling the restrictor and adding Meth and LT's does not change the docile nature of the car when you drive normally. You only notice when you're high up in the boost range. It allows you to run more boost while still providing enough octane to stop detonation. There is also the added benift of providing some cleaning of the valves since the Meth sprays in the intake tract.

It's not cheap when you go with a good Meth injection system liky Alky's but I'm hitting almost 10 psi and expect a bit higher boost when the temps drop.

544 is still a nice improvement. Like you, I did not get a before dyno but these cars are almost always about 400 RWHP stock with an M7.

NoOne

I'm good with the power level, prefer usable especially considering how well it holds on the stock tires.

I did check my order and it is a QR, anyway to tell my looking at them?

RoadRebel

I can and will adjust the fans any way YOU think you want them. They are currently set for 90% at a coolant temp of 210f instead of the factory 225f. If you understood the impact of elevated coolant temps on the power of the current generation of DI engines then you would understand why they are setup in this manner. But, Again if you really find this objectionable to your driving pleasure then by all means, I will gladly meet you and adjust accordingly.

Phil

c6switchblade

Nice numbers! You don't want to push it too hard without methanol/e85/racegas. The oil smell is from the re routed pcv system. Nothing to worry about. it is worth the trade off for those squeaky clean intake valves and manifold. 160 tstat is one of the best mods for the buck. My fans barely come on anymore and the car has been running around 185 in the summer in traffic and 165 on the highway when crusing.

NoOne

Phil,

I want the car to be done right.

My point is that if it being set the way that it is set now is the right way for safety/power thats fine, but I doubt many would find that to be an acceptable situations to have the fans run constant.

Doesn't mean they should be turned down. I want the car to not have the fans run the way they are, so if they cannot be turned down then what do I need to do to lower the temp?

If the fans need to run the way they do when the temp reaches 210, and that temp is going to be the range the car is constantly in with stock cooling that to me is something that should have been mentioned up front especially since I asked quite a few questions, including supporting mods, and was told they were not necessary.

I know the last thing a company wants to do is say you have to buy more parts to make things work right, especially in a competitive environment but I would have bought a 160 T-stat ahead of time, a radiator, etc...

I want the car to run properly and not sound like a hoover. If your saying they need to come on at 210 to keep the temps down then what else can I do to make sure it does not hit 210 all the time because it is always over 210 apparently.

T-stat?
Radiator?
Coolant type?

I still think its odd though that the car will run at 210 degree's without the air on and not driving it hard. Driving 8-9 miles on the freeway at a steady state without the AC on I would expect it to be below that but when I got off the freeway they were running full speed still.

Do you see in other cars you've done where the fans are always on when not being driven hard, sitting idling for a long period of time, or driving with the AC on? Things that traditionally cause the temp to rise? It was pretty decent out today and in mild temps is I'm always over 210 without the AC on what will happen when its 90 out?