NoOne

I think Higgs said on here that 2015's run a lot cooler than 2014's and may have a different T-stat.

Also he thought that the Z06 had a 160 T-stat.

Does the Z06 part fit a 2014? I assume I can get one much quicker at a dealer than from LPE who no longer lists them, and maybe thats the reason why they no longer list them because a dealer part will fit.

Anyone know if the 2015 part changed, is it a lower temp like the Z06?

Higgs Boson

I don't think I said the Z06 had a 160, I'll check the tune file when I get home this evening, I would be surprised if it didn't say 194 like everything else.

I have noticed 2015 owners stating their normal coolant temps are around 200 vs 215 for many 2014 owners (outliers removed).

The only real solution right now is the quality piece made by LMR. I wouldn't bother with anything else.

motomanvette

That's Late Model Racecraft, correct? They have a one piece solution?
Thanx Higgs.

NoOne

Someone said it....thought it was you but if its not any different on the Z06 then that's not an option either way.

I'll have to dig back through my searching yesterday and see if I can find the thread.

Called LMR but got disconnected on my end...LPE does not carry them anymore and they are redesigning them, 2 month wait time.

Not super excited about a $300 thermostat but doesn't look like much else is available right now.

NoOne

Ordered the LMR unit.

They are not in stock so have to wait 2-3 weeks.

Makes me wonder though at $300 for a T-stat versus $750 for a radiator would the $450 extra be better spent on the rad in the long run?

10mm_

My 2015 runs right at 188-192 (fluctuates) even in ambient temps up to 100 degrees F.


I would for sure do a radiator over a t-stat if I wanted my car to run cooler, actually increasing the cooling capacity will help a lot more than simply opening the t-stat sooner.

Higgs Boson

300 is a lot for the thermostat and what it does for sure. however, people spend more than that on stuff that looks stupid under the hood so you are getting a billet housing that looks pretty cool as well.

Wormwood

Wait, I thought Tag said the reason for the operating temps. on the 2014 was specifically for emissions? If so, I'd doubt they decided to lower the operating temps. unless the changed something in the emissions. Maybe they're slipping this under the radar....

I agree with Boson, the 2014's are running with a 100°C thermostat & I think the 2015 maybe have a 90°C thermostat. Oddly enough I can't seem to home-in a part # for either year model, looking online.

Wormwood

Higgs Boson

yes sir!

Wormwood

The DeWitt radiator increases the efficiency & capacity but neither will lower your temp. It will however slightly delay the rise of your oil temps. though due to the oil path design. The tstat will regulate the operating temps. but you'll still have a wide operating variance depending on your speed & ambients.

The cooling package requires a new radiator, tstat, & most importantly adjustments to the ECM to operate at a temp. that's lower than stock & in relation to the tstat you installed. This, as a package solution, has no drawbacks that I have found.

Anything less than those 3 items, I think would cause problems down the road. What your aiming for is a steady rise to operating temp. & maintaining that operating temp. for the entire drive cycle. The use of only 1 or 2 of the 3 items above will create oscillations in your operating temps. & can be damaging ( I.E. If you have a 160°F tstat you're going to chill the engine on the freeway & heat it up at a traffic light.) This is by definition work-hardening.

Wormwood

RussM05

I still believe lowering the IAT will help because it gets really hot under the hood even with a a lower 'stat. But how to do that is a real tough task. I bought an aftermarket intake system but went back to stock but with a K&N filter. I bought an insulation sleeve to go over both radiator hoses. These run under the air intake, so it should help a little.

sycraft

I run right at 170 with my LMR Thermostat while moving in 100 degree Texas Heat, never above 190 in traffic or sitting... LMR unit is worth the wait and works...

BJ67

Hello RussM05, I may have asked you this once before, what do I need to buy and plug in to monitor IAT's. I have a diablo tuner, can I do it with that?
I also have been experimenting cooling down the intake path. I have had some luck with the AFE unit. I have insulated or blocked off any place where hot air is pulled in front of the actual filter box that bolts up to the inner fender. You first need to seal up where the air filter boxes mounts to the inner fender by making a foam gasket and go from there. I opened up the air intake hole under the right headlight accessed by unbolting the right wheel plastic housing which goes out front under the grill. I also removed the right lower corner grille block off plate , easily to access once the wheel well is moved out of the way.
that done after insulating all the hot water pipes and hoses, My filter housing is cool to touch after any type of driving when I open the hood after parking it in the garage. If the evening air is 65 degrees, the box is that cool also. I am working on a brake duct that hooks in behind the lower right corner of the grill for z51 cars to direct the open grill to that air intake hole mentioned

3 Z06ZR1

300 for a tstat is nuts. Should be able to drill some holes in the stock one.

3 Z06ZR1

You can buy a I think it's ( I looked and it is at the other house called an Action II it resets CEL's but also reads data and you can hit freeze
and it freezes the data. SO you can print it out.
Like IAT's to cat temps to timing. I used to use it often when I had blower kits I would look the Iat's and timing and so forth.

RussM05

I use HP Tuners to log ambient and IAT. Down load to Excel and graph.
Below is a graph of the OEM air intake system. The red line is the IAT. During the 40 minute drive, note it stays close to ambient. Once coolant is up to temp, the IAT stabilizes a few degrees above ambient at over 50 mph. But once vehicle speed falls below 50, IAT goes up. Less air is moving through the air intake system and the heat soak of the filter housing starts. The coolant hoses and run right under the air intake assembly. Less air is moving thru the engine compartment as speed drops. Race cars really try to block heat from the intake system but our C7 really doesn't. I am seeing 40* or more rise at stop lights.

NoOne

Now this is more frustrating.

I went to look up the price and availability of a Dewitts radiator to find out they are less than 25 minutes from me.

I should have checked because you'd be surprised how many performance product manufacturers there are in Michigan.

Wormwood

Can someone confirm that the LT1 engine has a reverse flow coolant system?

Coolant comes in from the radiator to the heads & then down thru the block & back to the radiator?

Wormwood

davekp78

No it doesn't. To prove it to yourself, start up from cold. Keep feeling the hoses. The engine outlet will get hot first.

Higgs Boson

The LT1 from the 90's had a reverse flow cooling system.