Jet 180 degree thermostat
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Jet 180 degree thermostat
Just some feedback on the Jet 180 thermostat. I don't want to spend $329 on the LMR one and see that Lingenfelters is not back out yet to fix the rubber gasket so anyone use the Jet thermo and have any issues?
#2
Racer
So far it's been the best solution available for me, but it does require changes to the fan tables to turn on at lower temps. Otherwise you're going to have a wild variance in temperatures depending if you're in slow traffic or cruising. More specifically while you're in traffic you won't benefit from just a thermostat alone, your temps. will slowly climb the same as they are now. However using something like diablo's InTune, you can go in to the fan tables make changes & leave EVERYTHING else alone. No need to increase power, timing, or anything, just the fan tables. This allows you to change 95% of what any other product on the market could do (I.E. HPTuners, EfiLive, etc.) with regards to the fan control. Lastly is a larger radiator, is highly recommended, required, if your outside temps. are 100+, the radiator will increase the coolant capacity, efficiency, & results in a increase in the amount of heat transfer for a given period of time.
Currently, I have a DeWitt radiator with a Jet Performance 180° in the stock housing using ~70/30% deionized water to DexCool & water wetter (dunno if the water water works or not) it's a 100° right now & the highest my temps. get are 201° coolant & 205° oil. I have modified my fan's duty cycle to 20%@192° 30%@197 40%@200° etc. adding 10% for every increment setting until I reach 90% (Diablo's InTune labels this as 89.9%, I'm unsure why) at 90% your fan is at it's highest speed.
The LMR thermostat is a little different in operation as the spring & the piston are a lot strong, the thermostat acts very quickly & meters the amount of coolant passing thru to the engine, which means a more stable operating temp. This is the desired operation, you do not want your engine to oscillate constantly in temperature, it will increase engine wear.
Lastly, I personally do not like operating these engines on the street with a 160° thermostat, it's just too cold & far from it's original operating temp. The original temp. is listed at 221° & the difference in comfort at 200° is night & day. The car is enjoyable while running the A/C during the lunch time rush. In constrast the difference from 221° to 180° does feel great, almost no heat! However, you can't adjust the fan tables that low so you'll end up with a wild variance in operating temps. similar to what I mentioned above. Also as the engine cools to 170°-180° It tightens up & the redline on your tachometer begins to drop to ~4750 rpms. If you don't plan on keeping your car, I guess it wouldn't matter but, I'm shooting for longevity & moderation.
I'm sorry this is so long-winded, I'm just trying to give you as accurate info as possible. The thermostat is only one part of a 3-4 part solution to beat the heat & by itself is only going to lead to disappointment, you have to include changes to the ECM fan tables, change coolant & run 60/40% or 70/30% at the minimum, & plan on a radiator to complete this upgrade.
Hope this helps...
Wormwood
Currently, I have a DeWitt radiator with a Jet Performance 180° in the stock housing using ~70/30% deionized water to DexCool & water wetter (dunno if the water water works or not) it's a 100° right now & the highest my temps. get are 201° coolant & 205° oil. I have modified my fan's duty cycle to 20%@192° 30%@197 40%@200° etc. adding 10% for every increment setting until I reach 90% (Diablo's InTune labels this as 89.9%, I'm unsure why) at 90% your fan is at it's highest speed.
The LMR thermostat is a little different in operation as the spring & the piston are a lot strong, the thermostat acts very quickly & meters the amount of coolant passing thru to the engine, which means a more stable operating temp. This is the desired operation, you do not want your engine to oscillate constantly in temperature, it will increase engine wear.
Lastly, I personally do not like operating these engines on the street with a 160° thermostat, it's just too cold & far from it's original operating temp. The original temp. is listed at 221° & the difference in comfort at 200° is night & day. The car is enjoyable while running the A/C during the lunch time rush. In constrast the difference from 221° to 180° does feel great, almost no heat! However, you can't adjust the fan tables that low so you'll end up with a wild variance in operating temps. similar to what I mentioned above. Also as the engine cools to 170°-180° It tightens up & the redline on your tachometer begins to drop to ~4750 rpms. If you don't plan on keeping your car, I guess it wouldn't matter but, I'm shooting for longevity & moderation.
I'm sorry this is so long-winded, I'm just trying to give you as accurate info as possible. The thermostat is only one part of a 3-4 part solution to beat the heat & by itself is only going to lead to disappointment, you have to include changes to the ECM fan tables, change coolant & run 60/40% or 70/30% at the minimum, & plan on a radiator to complete this upgrade.
Hope this helps...
Wormwood
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GundamX7X (12-16-2018)
#3
Supporting Vendor
I know our unit is a little more $ because of the Billet housing but it is $ well spent.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...t-housing.html
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...t-housing.html
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Too many PMs, please call or email instead, thanks!
Current C7 World Record Holder 7.55 @ 184 MPH
Quickest and Fastest GEN5 LT Powered Vehicle
LMR1200HP Supercharged C7 8.84 @ 160
LMR1200HP Twin Turbo C7 9.35@155mph-2014
2 TIME OUTLAW DRAG RADIAL LSX CHAMPION 2008/2010
9.47 ZR1 Corvette-2009
LATE MODEL RACECRAFT
713-466-9900
LateModelRacecraft.com
Too many PMs, please call or email instead, thanks!
#4
I'm Batman..
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Tech Contributor
I know our unit is a little more $ because of the Billet housing but it is $ well spent.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...t-housing.html
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...t-housing.html
#5
Team Owner
Why not design and offer a Tstat that is drop in without the replacement of the housing? It seems most people are looking to keep the stock look at just do the Tstat itself. Not to mention you would appeal to a larger group of buyers since that would be much less expensive.
Plus machining a piece of metal is way easier than making a T-stat which is a manufacturing and assembly process versus just machining that pretty much any shop with a CNC can perform for them.
#6
Instructor
Thread Starter
So far it's been the best solution available for me, but it does require changes to the fan tables to turn on at lower temps. Otherwise you're going to have a wild variance in temperatures depending if you're in slow traffic or cruising. More specifically while you're in traffic you won't benefit from just a thermostat alone, your temps. will slowly climb the same as they are now. However using something like diablo's InTune, you can go in to the fan tables make changes & leave EVERYTHING else alone. No need to increase power, timing, or anything, just the fan tables. This allows you to change 95% of what any other product on the market could do (I.E. HPTuners, EfiLive, etc.) with regards to the fan control. Lastly is a larger radiator, is highly recommended, required, if your outside temps. are 100+, the radiator will increase the coolant capacity, efficiency, & results in a increase in the amount of heat transfer for a given period of
Currently, I have a DeWitt radiator with a Jet Performance 180° in the stock housing using ~70/30% deionized water to DexCool & water wetter (dunno if the water water works or not) it's a 100° right now & the highest my temps. get are 201° coolant & 205° oil. I have modified my fan's duty cycle to 20%@192° 30%@197 40%@200° etc. adding 10% for every increment setting until I reach 90% (Diablo's InTune labels this as 89.9%, I'm unsure why) at 90% your fan is at it's highest speed.
The LMR thermostat is a little different in operation as the spring & the piston are a lot strong, the thermostat acts very quickly & meters the amount of coolant passing thru to the engine, which means a more stable operating temp. This is the desired operation, you do not want your engine to oscillate constantly in temperature, it will increase engine wear.
Lastly, I personally do not like operating these engines on the street with a 160° thermostat, it's just too cold & far from it's original operating temp. The original temp. is listed at 221° & the difference in comfort at 200° is night & day. The car is enjoyable while running the A/C during the lunch time rush. In constrast the difference from 221° to 180° does feel great, almost no heat! However, you can't adjust the fan tables that low so you'll end up with a wild variance in operating temps. similar to what I mentioned above. Also as the engine cools to 170°-180° It tightens up & the redline on your tachometer begins to drop to ~4750 rpms. If you don't plan on keeping your car, I guess it wouldn't matter but, I'm shooting for longevity & moderation.
I'm sorry this is so long-winded, I'm just trying to give you as accurate info as possible. The thermostat is only one part of a 3-4 part solution to beat the heat & by itself is only going to lead to disappointment, you have to include changes to the ECM fan tables, change coolant & run 60/40% or 70/30% at the minimum, & plan on a radiator to complete this upgrade.
Hope this helps...
Wormwood
Currently, I have a DeWitt radiator with a Jet Performance 180° in the stock housing using ~70/30% deionized water to DexCool & water wetter (dunno if the water water works or not) it's a 100° right now & the highest my temps. get are 201° coolant & 205° oil. I have modified my fan's duty cycle to 20%@192° 30%@197 40%@200° etc. adding 10% for every increment setting until I reach 90% (Diablo's InTune labels this as 89.9%, I'm unsure why) at 90% your fan is at it's highest speed.
The LMR thermostat is a little different in operation as the spring & the piston are a lot strong, the thermostat acts very quickly & meters the amount of coolant passing thru to the engine, which means a more stable operating temp. This is the desired operation, you do not want your engine to oscillate constantly in temperature, it will increase engine wear.
Lastly, I personally do not like operating these engines on the street with a 160° thermostat, it's just too cold & far from it's original operating temp. The original temp. is listed at 221° & the difference in comfort at 200° is night & day. The car is enjoyable while running the A/C during the lunch time rush. In constrast the difference from 221° to 180° does feel great, almost no heat! However, you can't adjust the fan tables that low so you'll end up with a wild variance in operating temps. similar to what I mentioned above. Also as the engine cools to 170°-180° It tightens up & the redline on your tachometer begins to drop to ~4750 rpms. If you don't plan on keeping your car, I guess it wouldn't matter but, I'm shooting for longevity & moderation.
I'm sorry this is so long-winded, I'm just trying to give you as accurate info as possible. The thermostat is only one part of a 3-4 part solution to beat the heat & by itself is only going to lead to disappointment, you have to include changes to the ECM fan tables, change coolant & run 60/40% or 70/30% at the minimum, & plan on a radiator to complete this upgrade.
Hope this helps...
Wormwood
#7
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I have the LMR unit and adjusted fan tables with no wild swings.
#9
I emailed tech support and had them change the settings on my tune and email to me.
#10
Instructor
Thread Starter
#11
#12
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you don't have to change the thermostat to change the fan settings. you can do any combination of anything you want.
#13
Melting Slicks
let me help you guys with something.
jet 180 stat from jet page
lingenfelter instructions (with stat rotated to match jet) whaaaa!
stock vs. lingenfelter (note the seal difference)
i have not had trouble out of my lingenfelter stat, but they pulled them for some reason.. however i would not assume that the jet is any different considering the seal is identical and i dare say from the same OEM.
jet 180 stat from jet page
lingenfelter instructions (with stat rotated to match jet) whaaaa!
stock vs. lingenfelter (note the seal difference)
i have not had trouble out of my lingenfelter stat, but they pulled them for some reason.. however i would not assume that the jet is any different considering the seal is identical and i dare say from the same OEM.
#14
Thanx, I did find the screen. I have the ability to adjust my fan settings with my tuner but I'll still need a T-stat? Is the Jet product a viable option?
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#16
I was actually surprised, compared to my C5, how hot the coolant gets. Only about 70 the other night on the highway and the temps averaged out to about 210. I guess these things like to run on the hot side.
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Bill
#18
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All a thermostat does is regulate minimum temperature. Stock C5 and C6 thermostats are set at 86 deg C/ 186 deg F. I was under the assumption the C7 thermostats were the same setting. Don't see how dropping 6 degrees helps anything much at all. It definitely will not reduce temps that are in the 210 region. The stock thermo will be wide open long before the temp reaches 210 so if it can't keep the temperature below 210 a lower floor or even eliminating the thermostat altogether won't get it any lower.
Bill
Bill
Does it rise when I hammer on it for a few minutes in 100 degree weather? Yes, it gets to about 195-200 and comes back down and cruises at 175 again.
A thermostat STARTS to open at the rated temp, they don't snap open. If a thermostat starts to open at 194 (stock C7) vs starts to open at 160, the 160 is fully open (175ish) before the stock 194 even starts to open. The amount of volume flowed at a given temp is much greater with a lower temp stat up until the stock thermostat is fully open, which would be around 210....a temperature my 160 thermostat car never reaches in the first place.
I would agree that if you push your car hard enough, like on a road course, where you generate a lot of heat for 20-30 minutes, a thermostat isn't going to keep your temps lower than a stock thermostat will as the upper temps will be very hot (especially on the C7 as has been shown). At this point a radiator, oil cooler, etc will be needed.
What percentage of C7s have been on the road course? Single digit % for sure....a thermostat will do great for the highway pull car or the occasional romp car.
#19
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Except that it does work.....My cruising temps went from 215 to 175 with a 160 thermostat.
Does it rise when I hammer on it for a few minutes in 100 degree weather? Yes, it gets to about 195-200 and comes back down and cruises at 175 again.
A thermostat STARTS to open at the rated temp, they don't snap open. If a thermostat starts to open at 194 (stock C7) vs starts to open at 160, the 160 is fully open (175ish) before the stock 194 even starts to open. The amount of volume flowed at a given temp is much greater with a lower temp stat up until the stock thermostat is fully open, which would be around 210....a temperature my 160 thermostat car never reaches in the first place.
I would agree that if you push your car hard enough, like on a road course, where you generate a lot of heat for 20-30 minutes, a thermostat isn't going to keep your temps lower than a stock thermostat will as the upper temps will be very hot (especially on the C7 as has been shown). At this point a radiator, oil cooler, etc will be needed.
What percentage of C7s have been on the road course? Single digit % for sure....a thermostat will do great for the highway pull car or the occasional romp car.
Does it rise when I hammer on it for a few minutes in 100 degree weather? Yes, it gets to about 195-200 and comes back down and cruises at 175 again.
A thermostat STARTS to open at the rated temp, they don't snap open. If a thermostat starts to open at 194 (stock C7) vs starts to open at 160, the 160 is fully open (175ish) before the stock 194 even starts to open. The amount of volume flowed at a given temp is much greater with a lower temp stat up until the stock thermostat is fully open, which would be around 210....a temperature my 160 thermostat car never reaches in the first place.
I would agree that if you push your car hard enough, like on a road course, where you generate a lot of heat for 20-30 minutes, a thermostat isn't going to keep your temps lower than a stock thermostat will as the upper temps will be very hot (especially on the C7 as has been shown). At this point a radiator, oil cooler, etc will be needed.
What percentage of C7s have been on the road course? Single digit % for sure....a thermostat will do great for the highway pull car or the occasional romp car.
Since you swapped your thermostats, why not post a picture of the stock thermostat that shows the temperature setting. That would help settle the doubt about what the actual setting is.
Bill
Last edited by Bill Dearborn; 07-27-2015 at 03:14 AM.
#20
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my stock thermostat is long gone but maybe someone else can. the ECM needs to know the temp of the thermostat which is programmed at 194. there's several people here with thermostats laying around, maybe they can assist.