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Have been noticing slower warmups (about 1500 miles on aftermarket 180 stat). Went on a early am 55 degree ,75 mile ride, temp would not go over 155- 160 degrees. Drove home later in the day in 83 degrees same 75 miles, temp struggled to maintain 180, most of the time 170-175 and red line stayed in the yellow 5500 range.
Decided to put stock stat back in, sure enough the rubber seal was torn and moved back off the lingenfelter stat. After install (topped off antifreeze level), started engine, immediately could hear engine fan on high speed- A/C off. Never heard this before. Let engine warm, watched temp increase but was slowed down by high fan. Car was parked in my garage the whole time not driven on street. Noticed oil temp gage not moving and oil pressure higher than normal. When car was 190 - 195 degrees, I shut it down for 30 seconds and restarted. No high speed fan and oil temp works. Guess it didn't like the 150 miles of lower temps, no CEL and no odd things happened when I started car to make my journey home after sitting for 5 hrs . When this stat was working correct, I was averaging 185 -190 degrees and quick warmups. The car likes that range, do not know how some guys run 160 or 170 stats.
How do you correct the redline issue? I cannot get the 6500 rpm redline till temp is just 175 to 180. I also read on this post another guy had same issue after installing the AFE intake. I had my MAF unplugged for 3 hrs when I was replacing the stock stat. The 150 mile trip was 1st drive after installing the 93 afe tune
How do you correct the redline issue? I cannot get the 6500 rpm redline till temp is just 175 to 180. I also read on this post another guy had same issue after installing the AFE intake. I had my MAF unplugged for 3 hrs when I was replacing the stock stat. The 150 mile trip was 1st drive after installing the 93 afe tune
I haven't ever had this issue. What "Theme" are you using for the gauges? I use the Touring Theme exclusively.....not sure if it has the redline temp light??
Easiest way to clear the limp mode syndrome temporarily is to disconnect the ground on the battery. Also works if you go back to stock T-stat and limp mode persists.
I haven't ever had this issue. What "Theme" are you using for the gauges? I use the Touring Theme exclusively.....not sure if it has the redline temp light??
With the sport theme the outside diameter of the tach you see the yellow red line at 3500 rpm when engine is cold, as the engine warms that redline limit keeps getting closer to 6500 rpm. The yellow outline in the rpm scale finally disappears at 175 to 180 degrees and now the redline is at 6500 rpm. When the car was new, the first 500 miles you never see a 6500 redline, it immediately changes to 6500 as soon as you flip 500 miles. If you have water temp the never goes over 175 degrees going down the hiway, the yellow shadow only goes as far as 5500 rpm. I assume the engineer that designed that is just telling you not to spin motor at 6500 rpm till the water temp is 180 or more.
Easiest way to clear the limp mode syndrome temporarily is to disconnect the ground on the battery. Also works if you go back to stock T-stat and limp mode persists.
I believe the high fan immediately after cold start and no oil temp and higher oil pressure readings only showed up due to the unplugging of the maf wire harness for 3 hrs. due to AFE R&R to replace t-stat to stock. I did not disconnect battery. I didn't drive the car when this happened so never experienced limp home mode , just warmed it to full temp of 195 degrees while parked than shut it off for 30 seconds and restarted. All was normal on the restart.
How do you update the tune? for a thermostat change. I have a diablosport Itune
you might have to get someone with more access (like Diablew) to help you, the handhelds don't have much access compared to something like HPTuners or EFILive.
you might have to get someone with more access (like Diablew) to help you, the handhelds don't have much access compared to something like HPTuners or EFILive.
Thanks Higgs, I just put the original 194 degree stat back in. I ran the 180 for 1400 miles with the afe intake with out any tune. Just did the 93 afe diablo , ran car for 150 miles and took out defective thermostat, back on the 194 degree. Can definitely see the 10- 15 degree difference when cruising. I am going to try the bud swap from the lingenfelter stat to the OE stat
I am beginning to think there is more to the T-stat coding than the fact that it is not opening quickly enough.
I installed a modded 160 deg T-stat ( LF bulb - stock holding ring per Mighty Mouse Mod). It coded after about 20 mi, and just after a 20 minute stop. Had to remove battery ground to get rid of code. DashHawk would delete it but it would immediately come back ( damn stubborn ECM!).
Yesterday I decided to add as much water/anti-freeze as possible in case there was an air pocket or bubble. Even though it seemed full, I was able to add almost a quart. Just drove car 20 mi in both hwy and stop and go traffic ( 60 deg outside today). I also turned on the heater full blast to make sure that wasn't a source of an air pocket. Car coolant temps varied from 162 up to 175, but mostly in mid-160's. NO issues so far.
So if it doesn't code that means our Vettes are temperamental about getting all the air out of the cooling system.
May be WRONG... but if it works, much simpler than going back to stock before I decide to tune.
if you do not change your thermostat setting in the tune you may still get the code because the car is still looking for 194* minimum operating.. look in the tune for this.
i had no trouble with this changed to 175
it is surely all caused by slow or not-reaching desired operating temp. why gm chose to trigger the things they did to get the drivers / dealers attention is something im sure we will never understand.
Hey Mighty mouse, how do I get to that screen of the tune to set the desired temp from 194 to my 180 stat, I have a diablosport Itune
Hey Mighty mouse, how do I get to that screen of the tune to set the desired temp from 194 to my 180 stat, I have a diablosport Itune
that's a screen shot from HPTuners. Diablo is a handheld, it has preset changeable parameters. HPTuners allows you to blow up your engine using one of 1000 different methods if you want to... (if you get my drift)
that's a screen shot from HPTuners. Diablo is a handheld, it has preset changeable parameters. HPTuners allows you to blow up your engine using one of 1000 different methods if you want to... (if you get my drift)
Thank you Higgs, I guess maybe Diablew could help me . I have never got a cel on with the 180 stat for the 1000 miles it was in, so maybe I could just leave it at the 194 setting.
All things considered, performance, ecm friendly, etc. as Lingenfelter suggested the 170 degree thermostat is best for the C7 cooling system on the street, so when they have a new design that's the one I would do.
I have read coolant temp does not pull any timing until it reaches 194 degrees at which time 1 degree of timing is pulled.
PS: DiabloSport hand held has a first step of 192 degrees to turn the fan on so with a 170 stat and setting the fan to come on at 192 degrees between the two it "may" keep you out of any timing retard due to coolant temp and yet not let your engine run as cold as a 160 degree stat would. The 170 stat would likely let most people "cruise" without the fan turning on around 175/180 degrees which is about perfect in my book including performance.
Last edited by C7/Z06 Man; 09-12-2015 at 11:47 PM.
I have the Lingenfelter thermostat but I have had no issues is this problem imminent?
Its going to happen, first thing you will notice is a little longer getting up to what ever temp stat you are using. My case very slow getting to 180 degrees (180 stat) . than trouble getting to 180 at all.
Is the stat being sold by summit the same one as everyone is having issues with from LF? I picked up the 170 Stat from Summit and was going to have it installed along with my ECS kit but now I'm not so sure.
09-10-2015, 08:04 PM
180 lingenfelter stat
