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Just created a nightmare! Lash cap fell into motor!

Old 08-25-2015, 11:55 PM
  #41  
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I have been reading up on how to magnetize things. Some of the tricks are really cool! That's the ultimate solution for the lash cap.

Man... I feel for ya Ant... Looking more and more like no easy fix for your loss...

And... NO... we don't expect a "How to" on this issue. ( I think I might owe you a beer for that comment...)
Old 08-26-2015, 01:44 AM
  #42  
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Its probably at the bottom of your oil pan in a valley or on the windage tray under the crank. Aint nothing you can do other than pull the pan or just drive it. It will more than likely just stay in the bottom of the oil pan and not damage anything.
Old 08-26-2015, 03:15 AM
  #43  
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You always seem to have even worse luck than me, Ant.
Old 08-26-2015, 07:08 AM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by EcoBrick Bob
I have been reading up on how to magnetize things. Some of the tricks are really cool! That's the ultimate solution for the lash cap.

Man... I feel for ya Ant... Looking more and more like no easy fix for your loss...

And... NO... we don't expect a "How to" on this issue. ( I think I might owe you a beer for that comment...)
Haha this guy.. Lol. Yea A how to on this one may take quite a long time depending on how deep I take this.

Originally Posted by stangkilrproductions
Its probably at the bottom of your oil pan in a valley or on the windage tray under the crank. Aint nothing you can do other than pull the pan or just drive it. It will more than likely just stay in the bottom of the oil pan and not damage anything.
Those were my thoughts exactly. The only concern I have is that the windage tray is mostly solid and doesn't have any holes really for something to fall down through it. It also sits so close to the crank that I don't think you would have the clearance of a pencil between the two. Still debating if I want to take the risk and just put it back together and fire it up.

Originally Posted by Theta
You always seem to have even worse luck than me, Ant.
Don't I know it!
Old 08-26-2015, 07:58 AM
  #45  
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I wouldn't worry about it personally. That's not the "right" answer.. But the chances of it causing any damage are slim to none. I wouldn't be surprised if it comes out in your next oil change. Its too big to get sucked past the pickup screen so it wont cause a oiling issue and even if the crank or rods were to smack it in the windage tray odd are it wont hurt anything.


Write it off or take it apart... Flip a coin.
Old 08-26-2015, 09:27 AM
  #46  
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I wouldn't worry about it either to be honest.
Old 08-26-2015, 10:05 PM
  #47  
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If you're like I think you are, you ARE going to worry about it.

Just a thought, but perhaps the pan (if the missing part is down there) doesn't have to come all the way off.

If the engine is raised enough to lower the pan enough that you can fishtape (or some other means of a flexible device) a magnet inserted in between the lip of the pan and the bottom flange of the block, perhaps that might alleviate the need to mess with the cradle.

Bascially, if the pan was lowered 1-2" from the block, could that provide enough room to work some tool in there? Don't know about the C7, but it worked for me on previous issues.

Basically, what you need is more room to insert a retrievable magnet (even a borescope) into the oil pan.

I hope it is not wedged under the baffle, but if you can at least inspect the pan & baffle, perhaps that might put your mind at ease?
Old 08-26-2015, 10:27 PM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by DMGroh
If you're like I think you are, you ARE going to worry about it.

Just a thought, but perhaps the pan (if the missing part is down there) doesn't have to come all the way off.

If the engine is raised enough to lower the pan enough that you can fishtape (or some other means of a flexible device) a magnet inserted in between the lip of the pan and the bottom flange of the block, perhaps that might alleviate the need to mess with the cradle.

Bascially, if the pan was lowered 1-2" from the block, could that provide enough room to work some tool in there? Don't know about the C7, but it worked for me on previous issues.

Basically, what you need is more room to insert a retrievable magnet (even a borescope) into the oil pan.

I hope it is not wedged under the baffle, but if you can at least inspect the pan & baffle, perhaps that might put your mind at ease?
It's like you are in my head with me reviewing my thought process lol. Only flaw with doing that is the pan is sealed with RTV sealant in a very specific pattern with it being thicker and thinner in some sections. Once I break the seal I have to redo the sealant and if I don't drop the pan enough to redo the sealant then that's an issue.
Old 08-26-2015, 10:36 PM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by FYREANT
It's like you are in my head with me reviewing my thought process lol. Only flaw with doing that is the pan is sealed with RTV sealant in a very specific pattern with it being thicker and thinner in some sections. Once I break the seal I have to redo the sealant and if I don't drop the pan enough to redo the sealant then that's an issue.
Look up a product called right stuff.

No way will your oil pan leak.
Old 08-26-2015, 10:43 PM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by 10mm_
Look up a product called right stuff.

No way will your oil pan leak.
It's not that simple. The path the RTV sealant takes on the pan is specific and important. It's not as simple as sloshing it on the lip all the way around. It's set along a specific path the not interfere with the oil pump, etc. plus it's very hard to clean the old RTV off if I can't really get in there..
Old 08-27-2015, 02:31 PM
  #51  
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Hope this helps
Old 08-27-2015, 02:41 PM
  #52  
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Something else you might try before breaking the pan seal. If you drain the oil (like overnight drain so it's all out of the pan), try tapping on the bottom or side of the pan with a hard rubber mallet to see if your missing part answers back with a "ting".

The part should make a different sound against the baffle as opposed to the thicker pan bottom - you may be able to deduce the location a bit better. If you do locate it in the pan, tilting the car toward the back (front high) or sideways toward the drain plug, together with the tapping vibration may move the part to where you want it.

If I could confirm it's below the baffle in the pan, I would leave it there. But, until it's in a safe place where it cannot cause any harm, it's not going to let you rest.
Old 08-27-2015, 05:03 PM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by DMGroh
Something else you might try before breaking the pan seal. If you drain the oil (like overnight drain so it's all out of the pan), try tapping on the bottom or side of the pan with a hard rubber mallet to see if your missing part answers back with a "ting".

The part should make a different sound against the baffle as opposed to the thicker pan bottom - you may be able to deduce the location a bit better. If you do locate it in the pan, tilting the car toward the back (front high) or sideways toward the drain plug, together with the tapping vibration may move the part to where you want it.

If I could confirm it's below the baffle in the pan, I would leave it there. But, until it's in a safe place where it cannot cause any harm, it's not going to let you rest.
Those pics do help thank you. Do you happen to have one showing the inside of the pan under the baffle? A lot of the suggestions you have are great, and I've actually already done most of that. When I drained the oil looking for it, I jacked up the car and tilted towards the driver side and was underneath the car hitting the oil pan at the same time the oil was draining to try to loosen it up and get it out with the flow. I didn't use a rubber hammer though that's a good idea. I think I'm going to try that this evening.
Old 08-27-2015, 06:38 PM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by FYREANT
Those pics do help thank you. Do you happen to have one showing the inside of the pan under the baffle? A lot of the suggestions you have are great, and I've actually already done most of that. When I drained the oil looking for it, I jacked up the car and tilted towards the driver side and was underneath the car hitting the oil pan at the same time the oil was draining to try to loosen it up and get it out with the flow. I didn't use a rubber hammer though that's a good idea. I think I'm going to try that this evening.
Put it back to stock and drive it around, if it makes a funny noise take it to the dealer?
Old 08-27-2015, 07:56 PM
  #55  
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Sorry, don't have any other pics. I would guess the bottom of the pan is smooth, but only a guess.
Old 08-27-2015, 08:54 PM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by DMGroh
Sorry, don't have any other pics. I would guess the bottom of the pan is smooth, but only a guess.
Actually it's not smooth from what I can tell. Here is a picture from the service manual. Though it's not a real picture so it's hard to tell what it actually looks like in there..


Old 08-27-2015, 09:19 PM
  #57  
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Fyreant,

Every time I see a new post to you from this thread I am expecting it will be the one that starts with the word Success! I hope that this is the biggest mechanical nightmare you go through with this or any other vehicle.

Before you go through the steps to take off the pan I would get a good flexible magnetic pickup tool and go in through both the oil drain plug and any other easily accessible port (like the oil level sensor switch) to see if you catch it. Another option, to use with reasonable caution, is a flexible hose attached to your air compressor blow gun that can be snaked around in the pan area to try to dislodge it from wherever it may be stuck giving you a better chance for either the magnetic tool or gravity to assist you in removal.

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Old 08-27-2015, 09:40 PM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by DMGroh







Hope this helps
There is the lash cap in the top picture!
Old 08-27-2015, 11:40 PM
  #59  
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There is a lot going on under that baffle than I ever imagined! Hope I never have to see mine up close and personal! Lots of places for that part to hide.

I think at this point, I would retrace the path that the part could have taken on it's way to the pan - places were it could do some damage sooner or later. After I exhausted that route, I would have to trust that it made it to the pan where (hopefully) it becomes inert.

Try the compressed air & flex magnetic - at this point what choice do you have?

Annoying for sure, but after looking at the service manual, the only way to really check that pan is to fully remove it....ugh! Not a decision to be taken lightly.
Old 08-28-2015, 12:17 AM
  #60  
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Originally Posted by NSC5
Fyreant,

Every time I see a new post to you from this thread I am expecting it will be the one that starts with the word Success! I hope that this is the biggest mechanical nightmare you go through with this or any other vehicle.

Before you go through the steps to take off the pan I would get a good flexible magnetic pickup tool and go in through both the oil drain plug and any other easily accessible port (like the oil level sensor switch) to see if you catch it. Another option, to use with reasonable caution, is a flexible hose attached to your air compressor blow gun that can be snaked around in the pan area to try to dislodge it from wherever it may be stuck giving you a better chance for either the magnetic tool or gravity to assist you in removal.
Don't I wish I was reporting success in these posts brother! The problem is I just can't fit anything big enough into the drain hole. The actual hole the oil comes out of is very small. I wash shocked at how small it was. Honda's have a bigger drain hole than the C7's do. I could BARELY get my smallest telescoping magnet in that hole and when I did, I couldn't really move it at all in there.

Originally Posted by DMGroh
There is a lot going on under that baffle than I ever imagined! Hope I never have to see mine up close and personal! Lots of places for that part to hide.

I think at this point, I would retrace the path that the part could have taken on it's way to the pan - places were it could do some damage sooner or later. After I exhausted that route, I would have to trust that it made it to the pan where (hopefully) it becomes inert.

Try the compressed air & flex magnetic - at this point what choice do you have?

Annoying for sure, but after looking at the service manual, the only way to really check that pan is to fully remove it....ugh! Not a decision to be taken lightly.
Tracing the path it should have taken was one of the first things I did and is why I decided to dig in and remove the valley cover. It went off in the direction I show below in the arrow, and I am pretty darn certain based on the sounds that it made that it went down the circled galley in the bottom of the valley. This leads to the top of the can on down to the lower end assembly. Even if it did go into the small hole right by the circled area, that drains right down into the assembly the same as the valley galley's.



That would make it come through this path on the bottom end:



and if that is true, it should have landed on the baffle right about here:



I tried your rubber hammer trick, but, I couldn't get any type of a distinguishable sound out of it unfortunately. The biggest problem is that there clearances of this motor are so tight from the cam on down there just isn't enough room to do anything unfortunately. I started looking at pulling the oil sensor which is on the passenger side of the pan. This actually seems to have a decent size hole that it fills and it is held on by an E-clip. The only problem with this is that of course the sensor is installed from the inside out and the clip holds it from falling into the pan. Why? simply because it was the other way around I would be able to pull it and get into the pan with a magnet and move it around and the engineers had to make this even harder on me!

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