superramvette2

How much extra weight if you had to guess? I see the z06 stuff weights in your pics, any chance you have the stock stuff weights as well? I'm gonna try to offset some of the weight with lighter wheels. The rotors, pads, bolts have already arrived even though it said not in stock from amazon.

BTW, thanks a ton for the info in this thread. It's great to have such a good corvette fanbase.

X25

I'm glad to hear it's been useful!

From my build thread:

superramvette2

As stated above, the parts ship a lot faster than they say. My rotors are all here, pads, caliper bolts, and the actual calipers have tracking numbers. So in short, the estimates by Amazon are still very conservative as the items ship in a week or two.

village idiot

Man thats a lot of unsprung and unsprung rotational weight. I'd probably be all over it if Z51 brakes weren't so good to begin with.

Someone should make a kit for C6 guys to use the C7Z06 brakes.

NT4HIM

So if someone were looking at moving from Z07 CCB to the standard Z06 iron brakes for cost savings over the long term, and please bare with my questions, I'm female and have limited knowledge of this stuff, lol:

1. Will I need to purchase both rings and hats to complete the swap or are the Z07 hats the same size as the standard Z06 hats so that I can just switch out the rings and change calipers?

2. Are there going to be calibration issues in the EBCM if I change out the CCB for the iron brake calipers/rotors other than what is typically encountered with changes in tires and brake pads when tracking the car?

X25

(1)
In your case, you can merely replace the whole rotors with narrower-annulus replacement rotors:
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...zo7-ccm-s.html
These are a bit narrower annulus to save you from unnecessary dead weight as much as possible, and they would work with whatever pad you'd like.

(2)
IF you'd still like to convert to C7 Z06 OEM iron brakes, you'd pretty much need to buy everything I've listed (including lines for front). On the upside, you could probably sell your brakes for $5-6K, and the new ones would cost $2K both front and rear.

-----

In your case, especially considering how easy it is to do so, I'd just get those iron replacement rotors I referenced above. It would also be very easy to install; 5-10 minutes per corner once the wheels are out.

Feel free to PM me if you have any questions.

X25

The front is only a little bit heavier, which is OK considering the large increase in capacity, and now I have a solution for the rear!!!!

From my build thread:

Chets LS3

Did you go with front girodisc? I'm going to order fronts only

X25

I did only rears, since fronts seem to be OK in terms of weight, and I already have DBA front rings. Please let us know what the weight is with the fronts.

village idiot

man, prices have gone up considerably!

X25

Please make sure you're looking at Amazon-supplied pricing.

For example, caliper:
https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-172-2.../dp/B010GOFS4C

It says "$464.98 & FREE Shipping". However, look on the right, you'll see it says "$339.19 Sold by: Amazon.com".

This happens when the part is not in stock. It said it would take 1-2 months to ship, but I had the parts in less than 2 weeks. A few other forum members also had the same experience.

superramvette2

I thought the same thing initially about the prices. Did you verify you were looking at Amazon as the supplier? It takes a second to figure out the difference on prime (it did for me at least). Once I did I found the prices slightly higher but not by much.

Parts took a couple weeks max. Had most of them in a week. This was about a month ago.

X25

+1 on the experience. I just updated the first post with large size font for those who don't know about how this works.

AKKutz

X, did you have any issues with bleeding and the ABS actuator? I hear mixed reviews. I have stainless lines I want to install, but hear you have no pedal when done and have to take the car to the dealer for an ABS bleed?

X25

I've had no issues whatsoever. If you let air inside from the reservoir to the lines all the way to the ABS, then yes, you can run into issues. However you can do that screw-up even when bleeding brakes; it has nothing to do with what calipers you use.

In short, make sure you have completely full reservoir when you're changing calipers,and don't leave the lines open overnight, where they might bleed too much, letting air in from the reservoir. Other than that, there's no issue whatsoever.

Chets LS3

What he said!!

AKKutz

So, you guys are changing out components while fluid is flowing? New to me and a bit messy. In the bike world we drain systems completely to change components. Interestingly, with the bosch abs on my Panigales, you don't run into any issues with air in them..... wonder why the car is so different?

village idiot

what are thoughts on upgrading only the front? Will it mess up the bias and such?

Also, thoughts on doing this at all for a car that will likely never see anything more than R-compound tires, if that.

lastly, anyone find the rear in red?

edit:
what is J56 (from the OP: Hoses (for J56))

X25

J56 is the three letter code for these brakes.

The rear calipers actually look identical with piston sizes, etc., besides the offset, and the pads are also identical. Looks like the difference is limited to the heat capacity. We could probably just change fronts and would be OK, since ee don't have 650 HP : )

I don't think you'll need Z06 brakes if you'll not use your car at the track. If you'll go to track, though I'd highly recommend it to have consistent brakes. The stock brakes could be overwhelmed at the track, especially on R compound tires, based on others' experience.

village idiot

Yup, I'll be going on the track! I should have clarified- r compounds on the track.

I'm going to go next weekend and see what happens. If they're overwhelmed, I'll probably upgrade. Thanks for the help.