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C7 Z51 track day expenses

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Old 11-28-2016, 07:09 PM
  #21  
X25
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Originally Posted by Jay_Davis
I don't know how you get 12 - 14 track days out of those tires. Mine are done in 5 and if I try for 6 they end up corded before the end of the day.
It is very hard to compare others' experiences, since the tracks, drivers, temps, car setup (alignment, suspension) play a big role and their experience can easily diverge. The best comparison is always letting one specific driver compare his/her own experiences with different tires, brake pads, alignment, etc.

One easy example: PSS tires wear like iron - until they overheat. When they do, like most other tires, they are on a leased life. I never got good results with PSS tires at the track, but some others would swear by them.

Last edited by X25; 11-28-2016 at 07:10 PM.
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Old 11-29-2016, 07:57 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by X25
It is very hard to compare others' experiences, since the tracks, drivers, temps, car setup (alignment, suspension) play a big role and their experience can easily diverge. The best comparison is always letting one specific driver compare his/her own experiences with different tires, brake pads, alignment, etc.

One easy example: PSS tires wear like iron - until they overheat. When they do, like most other tires, they are on a leased life. I never got good results with PSS tires at the track, but some others would swear by them.
I agree that a number of things can affected how long they last, but 3x is a very big difference.
Old 11-29-2016, 08:00 PM
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I agree. I think for most, it overheats, and the 'premature' wear begins : )
Old 11-30-2016, 09:12 AM
  #24  
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Tracking the Vette is certainly not cheap, I change all driveline fluids every year as well as brake fluid. I just run 15w50 all the time and let the car warm up before I drive it, I live in Texas though.

I use 18/19 TSW Interlagos wheels with Toyo R888's and they have lasted two years now, I keep on my stock wheels for the street.

The Wilwood brakes are a very reasonable cost brake set up, replacement rotors are $235, and pads are $200. I take my race pads out after events.

But the car is a blast on the track, it simply hauls and is incredibly balanced car.
Old 11-30-2016, 09:24 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by leadville1
Tracking the Vette is certainly not cheap, I change all driveline fluids every year as well as brake fluid. I just run 15w50 all the time and let the car warm up before I drive it, I live in Texas though.

I use 18/19 TSW Interlagos wheels with Toyo R888's and they have lasted two years now, I keep on my stock wheels for the street.

The Wilwood brakes are a very reasonable cost brake set up, replacement rotors are $235, and pads are $200. I take my race pads out after events.

But the car is a blast on the track, it simply hauls and is incredibly balanced car.
Have you calculated your average daily track day costs? If so would you mind sharing. I know its ugly and most don't want to think about it. They are high enough that I believe it will be less expensive for me to track a Miata that I don't even own yet vs Corvettes that I already own. Madness!
Old 11-30-2016, 10:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Internetguru
Have you calculated your average daily track day costs? If so would you mind sharing. I know its ugly and most don't want to think about it. They are high enough that I believe it will be less expensive for me to track a Miata that I don't even own yet vs Corvettes that I already own. Madness!

To me it is irrelevant, because I bought the Corvette to track it. I just tried to keep it simple with a NA car and inexpensive consumables, i.e. Wilwood, R888's, Mobil 1.
Old 12-01-2016, 10:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Bill Dearborn
... The only way to make it cost effective is to DIY and buy the oil from Walmart in the 5 qt containers. 1 qt containers come close to doubling the cost. Two 5 quart containers fill the sump to just above the full dot and are .3 of a quart short of the half quart over that GM recommends for track driving.

Bill
My reason for having the dealer do all of the oil changes is to eliminate warranty claims issues in the event I have some type of Power Train failure on my 5 year 100,000 mile GM warranty. Not sure how it works with GM but Subaru denied us a warranty replacement on a BRZ that we seized the engine on because we were using AMSOIL and they claimed they have not approved it for use in their vehicle and changing the oil ourselves they did not believe we had oil in the vehicle. I brought them the receipts for a barrel of AMSOIL and all of the removed oil from oil changes and we battled it out. In the end I only got 50% covered by Subaru.

Because of this I am inclined to using the dealer for any oil related servicing. They will let me bring my own fluids and just charge me tech time when they do not have the fluids I want. I had to bring the Mobil 1 15w-50 as my dealer does not stock it. Bought it at Wal-mart and made my oil change cost a total of $75 total instead of the usual $100 they charge me for Mobil 1 5w-30.
Old 12-01-2016, 10:50 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by leadville1
To me it is irrelevant, because I bought the Corvette to track it. I just tried to keep it simple with a NA car and inexpensive consumables, i.e. Wilwood, R888's, Mobil 1.
You are more baller than me... Granted I am going to have to multiply my costs at track x3 or x4 depending on how many sons and if wife wants in.
Old 12-03-2016, 09:47 PM
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Just curious... What are you doing for alignment, running street alignment on the track to save a few bucks? How has that been going?
Old 12-03-2016, 10:29 PM
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I have lifetime alignment from Firestone, but I still leave it untouched throughout the year.

Unless you have very aggressive toe, the tire wear is usually not too bad. As a compromise, you can leave the front toe at 0, and use it on both street and track. The rear is supposed to have a tiny bit of toe in for stability, so I would not touch that.

From my build thread:
  • Front
    • -2.5 - -2.6 camber
    • 0.05 front toe out per corner
    • 7 degrees caster
  • Rear
    • -2.1 - -2.2 camber
    • 0.05 toe in per corner
    • 0 degrees caster

Last edited by X25; 12-03-2016 at 10:31 PM.
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Old 12-03-2016, 10:32 PM
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Originally Posted by X25
I have lifetime alignment from Firestone, but I still leave it untouched throughout the year:

From my build thread:

Lol you tricked them too!!! Makes two of us.
Old 12-03-2016, 10:35 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by chets ls3
Lol you tricked them too!!! Makes two of us.
I don't know who tricks who, since I have had 7 cars with them with lifetime alignment in years, and I don't own 5 of them anymore!

I always leave $20+ tip with their technician, and he is always very happy to see me, making sure I hit the numbers : )
Old 12-04-2016, 12:12 AM
  #33  
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Gotcha. The manager mounts all my tires, so he approves my alignment. I do a lot of business there too. In fact my wife has a set of tires waiting there now. Her car might make the track next week!
Old 12-04-2016, 11:33 AM
  #34  
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I think track alignment is one key to better tire wear. My high volume Chevrolet dealer tried twice to get my C7 Z51 to the recommended track alignment but failed. The track mechanics at MSR Houston - track car experts - dialed it in perfectly. They showed me that all the washers in the suspension were still in place after the dealer's alignment attempts. The dealer had no chance of getting the track specs without removing washers. As I don't drive the car much on the street I keep the alignment year round. My track season is from October to December and March to May here in Texas.
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Old 12-04-2016, 12:29 PM
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Originally Posted by slickstick
Just curious... What are you doing for alignment, running street alignment on the track to save a few bucks? How has that been going?
I left mine factory stock. If I keep taking the C7 to the track I am going to run X25's suggested alignment... There is a Firestone by my house and I am going to purchase Lifetime alignment on our 3 Corvettes as well. I am happy I posted and got so many knowledgeable expert responses... I have learned a lot here that would have taken me a long time to learn on my own.

Originally Posted by X25
I have lifetime alignment from Firestone, but I still leave it untouched throughout the year.

Unless you have very aggressive toe, the tire wear is usually not too bad. As a compromise, you can leave the front toe at 0, and use it on both street and track. The rear is supposed to have a tiny bit of toe in for stability, so I would not touch that.

From my build thread:
Old 12-04-2016, 06:30 PM
  #36  
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I'm more terrified that brake fluid didn't make your list. Also, change your own oil and just use pump gas (93). It's fine.

Motorsports aren't cheap. I pay $6k/yr just for my membership and garage (which is dirt cheap for track membership and a 20ft deep garage). What makes it really expensive is horsepower. Horsepower means more expensive parts that you'll go through faster and more fuel. End of the year, I probably spend about $15-20k including getting out there, food, gas, wear and tear, broken parts, and, in 2014, medical bills (I was riding the bike in the avatar though). Tracking a near 500hp car is expensive- duh. The Corvette actually makes it cheap, believe it or not. The c7 is just not a good track car, period. It's a capable street car, not a track car. It's heavy, it's powerful and its got cooling issues.

Just get a spec miata for $8k. Change the tires and brakes once a season. It's more fun that way. I think I fill the tank once every 2 or 3 track days

Or just do what I do and don't think about it. It's cheaper that way

Last edited by village idiot; 12-04-2016 at 06:33 PM.
Old 12-12-2016, 07:23 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by Jay_Davis
I don't know how you get 12 - 14 track days out of those tires. Mine are done in 5 and if I try for 6 they end up corded before the end of the day.
it really depends on track & alignment and driver and willingness to run the same tires.

If I showed you guys some of the front tires I've tossed you would probably want them so you could run a track day on them.

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Old 12-13-2016, 08:40 PM
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Originally Posted by lobsterroboto
it really depends on track & alignment and driver and willingness to run the same tires.

If I showed you guys some of the front tires I've tossed you would probably want them so you could run a track day on them.
When I'm done with mine, no one wants them.
Old 12-13-2016, 08:58 PM
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hey guys new to the C7 ... picked up my Grandsport Saturday...
Great tips,
I did 58 track days this year with my C6 GS(sold) and Zo6 and ofcourse the Miata for short tracks or rocky ones like the Dominion Raceway. 13 different groups and a few states ,VIR summit point NCM Kentucky and Dominion this year..


what I'm looking for is a cheap rotor to put on before i even hit the track. i have carbotech and Hawk pads for the C6 and like Hawk better for my driving stile,

and i also need an education on this warranty requirements thing thanks guys !!!
Old 12-14-2016, 04:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Smart Line
hey guys new to the C7 ... picked up my Grandsport Saturday...
Great tips,
I did 58 track days this year with my C6 GS(sold) and Zo6 and ofcourse the Miata for short tracks or rocky ones like the Dominion Raceway. 13 different groups and a few states ,VIR summit point NCM Kentucky and Dominion this year..


what I'm looking for is a cheap rotor to put on before i even hit the track. i have carbotech and Hawk pads for the C6 and like Hawk better for my driving stile,

and i also need an education on this warranty requirements thing thanks guys !!!
I don't think there is a cheap rotor available, but I think DBA's T3 5000 rotor ring replacement would outlast all other options. This ring is 23.4 lbs (about 1 lbs heavier than OEM ring I think), and it is properly directional, with huge channels for cooling. The OEM rotors are not directional, which severely hurts the cooling, and as you know, more heat means shorter rotor life, even if it never fades. DBA's rings install onto the OEM hats, so you don't need to brake bank for the initial investment, either.

Last edited by X25; 12-14-2016 at 04:09 AM.


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