A little disappointed in first 1/4 mile trip
#21
Drifting
Interesting, so the talk now is tour mode for weight transfer or sport/track for faster gear shifts? All the other advise seems to line up except for those two.
#23
Drifting
I think the new DCS controller should help with better weight transfer and hooking up in Race Mode while getting the benefits of faster throttle response, quicker shifts and higher shift rpms.
#25
Race Director
This week they are coming out a new tune for the shocks that they say will help with launch:
This week, we were proud to release support for the all-new launch control feature in the DSC Sport tuning software! It's an absolute game changer for straight line suspension tuning that allows you to control the damping force of each individual shock when launching the vehicle. The table overrides the G-force table on launch and allows you to soften the rear shocks to match tire frequency to the pavement and allow the car to squat for maximum grip off the line! We will be following up with more information on this feature when we update our all-new Software User Manual that also made its debut on the DSC Sport website this week.
http://www.dscsport.com
Also, the Wi-Fi feature should be opened up. I think the Software Manual will have the security info required to activate it in order to download the new tune to your controller without need for the USB cable.
.
#27
Race Director
I dunno I don't have that "manual paddle ****"!! I have a manual lever in my M7.
Butt....I've instructed in a number of A6 and A8 Vettes at track day events, but I haven't seen an auto transmission at work on a drag strip.
However....I think when you go WOT on a twisty track or a drag strip, if you're in Drive the shifts are going to take place at/near redline of 6500 RPM.
You can't "hold gears longer" when in Manual and using the paddles - the rev limiter will cut power at/just above redline.
.
Butt....I've instructed in a number of A6 and A8 Vettes at track day events, but I haven't seen an auto transmission at work on a drag strip.
However....I think when you go WOT on a twisty track or a drag strip, if you're in Drive the shifts are going to take place at/near redline of 6500 RPM.
You can't "hold gears longer" when in Manual and using the paddles - the rev limiter will cut power at/just above redline.
.
#28
Andy,
I'm thinking hard about getting the CAI, but I'm a little worried about dealing with warranty issues with any change. Is the Halltech easy to remove for dealer service and put back to stock?
I have an extended warranty because I plan to do some track days with the car, and if they will warranty it for six years, I'Il let them. I don't want to do anything that would question the warranty, mostly due to the trans. I just replaced the converter in my 6.2 GMC A8 with 11k miles, and one of my friends is having to replace his converter in a new CTS-V
I'll look for trying to put a day together in Feb for going to RPR. We may want to do a bracket race day instead of Fri night due to the crowds.
Where did you get your drag race wheels and tires?
I'm thinking hard about getting the CAI, but I'm a little worried about dealing with warranty issues with any change. Is the Halltech easy to remove for dealer service and put back to stock?
I have an extended warranty because I plan to do some track days with the car, and if they will warranty it for six years, I'Il let them. I don't want to do anything that would question the warranty, mostly due to the trans. I just replaced the converter in my 6.2 GMC A8 with 11k miles, and one of my friends is having to replace his converter in a new CTS-V
I'll look for trying to put a day together in Feb for going to RPR. We may want to do a bracket race day instead of Fri night due to the crowds.
Where did you get your drag race wheels and tires?
#29
Racer
Andy,
I'm thinking hard about getting the CAI, but I'm a little worried about dealing with warranty issues with any change. Is the Halltech easy to remove for dealer service and put back to stock?
I have an extended warranty because I plan to do some track days with the car, and if they will warranty it for six years, I'Il let them. I don't want to do anything that would question the warranty, mostly due to the trans. I just replaced the converter in my 6.2 GMC A8 with 11k miles, and one of my friends is having to replace his converter in a new CTS-V
I'll look for trying to put a day together in Feb for going to RPR. We may want to do a bracket race day instead of Fri night due to the crowds.
Where did you get your drag race wheels and tires?
I'm thinking hard about getting the CAI, but I'm a little worried about dealing with warranty issues with any change. Is the Halltech easy to remove for dealer service and put back to stock?
I have an extended warranty because I plan to do some track days with the car, and if they will warranty it for six years, I'Il let them. I don't want to do anything that would question the warranty, mostly due to the trans. I just replaced the converter in my 6.2 GMC A8 with 11k miles, and one of my friends is having to replace his converter in a new CTS-V
I'll look for trying to put a day together in Feb for going to RPR. We may want to do a bracket race day instead of Fri night due to the crowds.
Where did you get your drag race wheels and tires?
#30
Racer
I dunno I don't have that "manual paddle ****"!! I have a manual lever in my M7.
Butt....I've instructed in a number of A6 and A8 Vettes at track day events, but I haven't seen an auto transmission at work on a drag strip.
However....I think when you go WOT on a twisty track or a drag strip, if you're in Drive the shifts are going to take place at/near redline of 6500 RPM.
You can't "hold gears longer" when in Manual and using the paddles - the rev limiter will cut power at/just above redline.
.
Butt....I've instructed in a number of A6 and A8 Vettes at track day events, but I haven't seen an auto transmission at work on a drag strip.
However....I think when you go WOT on a twisty track or a drag strip, if you're in Drive the shifts are going to take place at/near redline of 6500 RPM.
You can't "hold gears longer" when in Manual and using the paddles - the rev limiter will cut power at/just above redline.
.
#31
Race Director
My best 60's have been in Tour mode and coming up against the converter a little. Track temp and air make a huge difference in these cars. I wish we would start a list of 90 degree and higher air temp runs. That would proove to the unbelievers how much of a difference it really makes. And, yes icing the top of the blower helps a bunch as well, but don't be surprised if they fuss at you about dropping water on the track. To really get it cold takes a lot of ice and water, especially if you drive your car there. But don't be too dissapointed in your previous performance it wasn't that bad and you will get better at it and more miles on the car will help as well. And get you some drag radials, they will help you, especially if your track doesn't prep very well. I can hook better on the street than at my local track. They just don't spend the money on the test/grudge nights so it's always interesting. Repro wheels are available now and not too exspensive. I run them on repro 19X12's with Nitto NT05R's in 345-30-19. MT and maybe even Hoosier will 60' a little better, but don't run those on the street. I keep my Nitto's on all the time except when I use my Optima event tires/wheels. They even work well when cold and are safer in the rain. I DD mine.
Last edited by Thomasmoto; 01-16-2017 at 05:03 PM.
#32
Pro
Andy,
I'm thinking hard about getting the CAI, but I'm a little worried about dealing with warranty issues with any change. Is the Halltech easy to remove for dealer service and put back to stock?
I have an extended warranty because I plan to do some track days with the car, and if they will warranty it for six years, I'Il let them. I don't want to do anything that would question the warranty, mostly due to the trans. I just replaced the converter in my 6.2 GMC A8 with 11k miles, and one of my friends is having to replace his converter in a new CTS-V
I'll look for trying to put a day together in Feb for going to RPR. We may want to do a bracket race day instead of Fri night due to the crowds.
Where did you get your drag race wheels and tires?
I'm thinking hard about getting the CAI, but I'm a little worried about dealing with warranty issues with any change. Is the Halltech easy to remove for dealer service and put back to stock?
I have an extended warranty because I plan to do some track days with the car, and if they will warranty it for six years, I'Il let them. I don't want to do anything that would question the warranty, mostly due to the trans. I just replaced the converter in my 6.2 GMC A8 with 11k miles, and one of my friends is having to replace his converter in a new CTS-V
I'll look for trying to put a day together in Feb for going to RPR. We may want to do a bracket race day instead of Fri night due to the crowds.
Where did you get your drag race wheels and tires?
If if you read the manual, "racing" the car voids the warranty... so I wouldn't mention the track days to them.. lol.
Andy
Pm me about wheels and tires, non vendor answer.
Last edited by ACS55; 01-16-2017 at 08:19 PM. Reason: Spelling
#33
Race Director
However, I don't think you understand how the A8 works in D. When you're in D and got WOT, the car WILL NOT hit the rev limiter!! It will shift at the shift point, which is just slightly below/at the redline.
You CANNOT hit the rev limiter in D!!
If you're in M and go WOT, when the RPMs get to the rev limiter (6600 RPM), the car is going to sit there bouncing off the rev limiter until you lift off the accelerator pedal or upshift.
I think when you're WOT in D the shift will take place so close to redline that there's nothing left but maybe 100 RPM to the rev limiter.
You can tune the rev limiter to a higher RPM, but you'll void your warranty, and probably blow the engine - unless you really build it.
Bottom line - I don't think there's any benefit going into M and driving it to the rev limiter to get an extra 100 RPM before paddle shifting to the next higher gear.
When in D there is a very slight cut in power (I believe it cuts fuel for an instant - Edit: according to HB it's actually ignition that is cut) to facilitate the shift. However, if you're in M and sitting there bumping off the rev limiter you're going to lose more power in the time it takes to react and paddle shift than if you shift it at 6400.
Just MHO!!
.
Last edited by BEZ06; 01-16-2017 at 08:49 PM.
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Darkvet (01-16-2017)
#34
Race Director
Member Since: Jul 2007
Location: Texas Hill Country
Posts: 10,763
Received 2,379 Likes
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1,238 Posts
it cuts spark to shift.
#36
Race Director
Member Since: Jul 2007
Location: Texas Hill Country
Posts: 10,763
Received 2,379 Likes
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1,238 Posts
The following users liked this post:
BEZ06 (01-17-2017)
#37
Safety Car
I guess what I'm really wondering is how other folks have had stock cars run 130 MPH in very similar conditions? Do these cars vary that much in power or does icing the intake and a long cool down make 3-5 MPH difference? Also is there a performance difference in Tour vs Track mode? The shifting does seem to be different.
#38
Drifting
Originally Posted by JustOne
I got my first oil change done at 500 miles, and decided to head to Royal Purple Raceway on Friday night with 674 miles on the odometer. The air wasn't the best at 68 degrees and 99% humidity. The humidity was so bad that eventually, fog had rolled in and it was hard to see the scoreboards.
Overall, the car was fairly consistent, except for when I tried to use launch control, which killed 60ft, or I did it
wrong. With the exception of the launch control run, I did a good burnout and then left from an idle with both runs having nearly identical results. Both of these runs were done in Tour mode. MPSS @ 30 psi warm, 27 cold. My car is an A8.
60ft 1.718
1/8 7.166
1/8. 100.91
1/4 11.074
1/4. 125.20
My final run was an 11.077, but at 125.85, but with a 1.72 60ft.
I did notice that on the pass where I tried launch control with the car in Track mode, that it shifted much more aggressively, and even though it ran a 1.96 60ft it ran the same 125 trap speed.
I was disappointed in not getting a 10 second time slip and what seemed to be a slower MPH, as I was expecting 102 in the 1/8th and a trap at the lights of 127-130 MPH. The DA even with the high humidity was 714ft, so not terrible. Would running it in Track mode have made any difference?
Overall, the car was fairly consistent, except for when I tried to use launch control, which killed 60ft, or I did it
wrong. With the exception of the launch control run, I did a good burnout and then left from an idle with both runs having nearly identical results. Both of these runs were done in Tour mode. MPSS @ 30 psi warm, 27 cold. My car is an A8.
60ft 1.718
1/8 7.166
1/8. 100.91
1/4 11.074
1/4. 125.20
My final run was an 11.077, but at 125.85, but with a 1.72 60ft.
I did notice that on the pass where I tried launch control with the car in Track mode, that it shifted much more aggressively, and even though it ran a 1.96 60ft it ran the same 125 trap speed.
I was disappointed in not getting a 10 second time slip and what seemed to be a slower MPH, as I was expecting 102 in the 1/8th and a trap at the lights of 127-130 MPH. The DA even with the high humidity was 714ft, so not terrible. Would running it in Track mode have made any difference?
#40
Safety Car
Okay.......I have a bone stock A6 base and ran 11.88@11€ DA 1100 at Bradenton Motorsports Florida. That particular car in comparison should be able to run at 11.90s. Our elevation is at 59ft. 11.00's was eventually fast for that particular day the way it appears. Just remember. .......you have more left at least two tenths.
Last edited by Fore58; 01-17-2017 at 03:34 PM.