JustOne

I got my first oil change done at 500 miles, and decided to head to Royal Purple Raceway on Friday night with 674 miles on the odometer. The air wasn't the best at 68 degrees and 99% humidity. The humidity was so bad that eventually, fog had rolled in and it was hard to see the scoreboards.
Overall, the car was fairly consistent, except for when I tried to use launch control, which killed 60ft, or I did it
wrong. With the exception of the launch control run, I did a good burnout and then left from an idle with both runs having nearly identical results. Both of these runs were done in Tour mode. MPSS @ 30 psi warm, 27 cold. My car is an A8.

60ft 1.718
1/8 7.166
1/8. 100.91
1/4 11.074
1/4. 125.20

My final run was an 11.077, but at 125.85, but with a 1.72 60ft.
I did notice that on the pass where I tried launch control with the car in Track mode, that it shifted much more aggressively, and even though it ran a 1.96 60ft it ran the same 125 trap speed.
I was disappointed in not getting a 10 second time slip and what seemed to be a slower MPH, as I was expecting 102 in the 1/8th and a trap at the lights of 127-130 MPH. The DA even with the high humidity was 714ft, so not terrible. Would running it in Track mode have made any difference?

washgsxr

I went on Tuesday night with about the same results, Ran mine in Sport Mode and Track Mode with a 11:19 beening the best time Humidity was about the same I think you need great conditions to go in the 10'S without tuning.

T/A KID

Looks like a solid average time to me....

JustOne

I guess what I'm really wondering is how other folks have had stock cars run 130 MPH in very similar conditions? Do these cars vary that much in power or does icing the intake and a long cool down make 3-5 MPH difference? Also is there a performance difference in Tour vs Track mode? The shifting does seem to be different.

Higgs Boson

i thought drag racing was just push the gas and don't turn the wheel and everyone runs 10s so easy a caveman could do it like taking candy from a baby?

UBNZO6D

Ditto

23/C8Z

^^^^^^^... no, it's not.. i watched a guy with a 14 A6 run 13.0's at 114 or so all day he couldn't understand how.. his 60's were not bad, around 1.9's idk what he was doing said he wasnt shifting himself but he was a solid second off et and few mph to say the least compared to the many other C7's there.. i SO WANTED to drive it for him lol..

I've watched and beaten so many cars at the track which made ZERO sense over the years.. always driver error (stock cars)..

you'll maybe get it figured out.. maybe pulling some timing due to traction after the 60'?

yuck.. spoiled here with Atco and Englishtown.. that mph is not up to par.

washgsxr

I wish it was that easy, and air make all the difference in the world, Ran at Atco and MIR and you guys are at least 2 to 3 teens faster.

ajrothm

Your missing 10 sec pass was in your 60'.
My first pass at RPR, was a 10.95@125 with a 1.68' 60', this was on a +432' night.... the same night WashGSXR was there back in Nov.

After cooling the car down considerably, pushing it through the lanes and running it in Track mode with the TC off, I eventually got a 10.84@127 on a 1.66 60' the same night. I backed that up with another 10.84@126.8.

The key is getting the car cooled off, push that heavy bastard through the lanes with the hood up all the way to the tower. Run it in Sport or Track, TC off, launch at a deal idle. Make sure to have around 1/4 tank of fuel or less... (I was 3/8 tank on the 10.84 pass).

I weighed 3740lbs that night and had the tires at 25 psi.

I too was hoping for a 130 mph trap but I wasn't even close... Even on my follow up trip with the CAI and -1300 DA I only ran 129.

JustOne

I didn't say drag racing was easy or non technical, nor was this my first time down a track. I started out drag racing 23 years ago running a RED, had door cars, etc. I ran several classes before turning to racing twisties.
I read several threads on here and it seemed that these cars do fairly well by flashing the converter; so that's what I did. I don't consider a 1.71 on MPSS to be a bad baseline. Are others getting better response by leaving at 1500?
My question for those that know is, what could I do better, and do the driving modes make a difference? Are there things I can do, besides run in better air to try and get the 3-5 MPH difference? I'm new to these cars, so I'm just asking.

JustOne

ajrothm - Thank you! That's exactly the advice I was looking for. If your C3 is the one I'm thinking of, it's a beautiful car. I believe I've seen it at the Pearland Lowes several times.

ajrothm

Thanks... Yeah I go to the Pearland show fairly often in the summers.

As for the modes, I have never tried Touring mode, but I can tell you that Track mode shifts considerably harder and a little higher rpm then Sport mode. Also the throttle response comes in a little sooner. I would think in Touring mode the throttle response would be even slower.

I scanned my car at the track, launching at a dead idle, foot the floor, it takes right a 2 full seconds before the throttle body actually hits 100% TP. Thats why we have the lag out of the hole we have for about 1 car length. Maybe in Tour mode its even more reserved before the power comes in.

I would get into the burn out box at around 130-140* water temp. By the time I did the burn out and staged I was 200*. As soon as I was WOT I was already at 212*, and it held that down the track. IATs are insane with these things. Even with the water temp down to 130*, I still couldnt put my hand on the blower lid after parking the car for an hour with the hood up on a 50* night.

Lastly, on my second trip to RPR with my CAI, I had a good bit of knock retard all the way down the track, as high as 5* at some points, so this is telling me they need more octane.

So try this next time you go out:
1) Sport/Track, TC off
2) Push it thru the lanes & cool the engine off to 120* before the burnout
3) Ice down the blower lid(I'm going to try this myself)
4) Add some Torco octane booster or get a few gallons of unleaded race gas.
5) Keep the fuel at 1/4 or less.

February usually brings killer air here so... Get it ready.






Here is my log from my last trip to RPR with the CAI..
You can see the delay in TP% at the start and how long it takes to hit 100%. You can also see the 4-5% of timing retard going down the track. I'm thinking thats where my missing 2-3 mph may be. I'm running straight race gas next time I go.

washgsxr

I'm waiting on Feb, and I'm going to add some race gas to mine, ajrothm thanks for all the information. Need to plan a day, to all go to the track.

ajrothm

Yeah I'm not going back until I get some drag radials so I can try leaving hard on the converter and hopefully reduce some lag out of the hole. I'm gonna get a set of 18" wheels so I can run the short/light 335 Hoosiers.

I'd like to go some 10.40s on drag radials and race gas in good air on the stock tune.

ACS55

Here is how I have had my best results:

(this is a copied PM to another member also asking for advice)

Quote:
drag racing advice:
1. Drag radials, prefer Hoosier 315/18's or MT ET2's on 10.5" rear wheels. Lighter is better, shoot for 26" O.D.
Front runner skinnies will help too.
2. These cars need more octane than 93, they will pull timing and slow the car down with 93 octane. Mix 50/50 93 octane with 115 unl race gas... OR 10g 93 octane with 32 oz of torco accelerator (or boostane) octane booster... do NOT bother with ANY other octane boosters.
2. Drag race in TOUR mode. Softer suspension allows better weight transfer and traction, and faster times.
3. Turn OFF traction control, for your burnout, and also for your 1/4 mile runs/passes. You do this by pushing the selector button once, then the TC off light will illuminate on the dash.
Burnout is done in manual mode(pull shifter all the way back toward rear of car) hold foot on brake and run rpm's to 5500 for 3-4 secs, shift to 2'd for 3-4 more, done. After burnout, place car back into drive.
4. launch from an idle, do not do a brake stand. Stomp the gas to the floor and hold on, do not shift manually. (Assuming you have an auto) if you have a stock manual, you're not going to see a 10 sec qtr. mile.
5. These cars hate heat. (Programming starts pulling timing at 194 degrees).
Give your car a full hour of cool down time between runs, turned off with your hood open. Make sure your engine coolant temp is at 155-175 before starting your burnout.
6. Do NOT disable stabilitrac.
7. Do not use launch mode, it will slow down your times.


Let let me know if you have any other questions and good luck!!

I have run a best of 10.47 in negative 350DA air. And also a best of 134.7 mph, with all stock except drag wheels, tires and a CAI.

Andy

ACS55

Pic showing weight transfer in track mode.
By the way, when you guys go to RPR, let me know and I will trailer my car down there... it's only about 3 hours away. Small sacrifice for a new personal best, and some time to learn and visit with fellow C7Z owners!

I was a new Vette owner just 3 months ago, and it was through the generosity of others that I have learned what I have thus far.... that kind of generosity as well as knowledge is what keeps me coming back here to CF. Kudos fellow CF community, and thank you!

One last thing, I have tried track mode... the car shifts firmer, but my times have slowed using it. Here is a pic showing the weight transfer in tour mode.

(6 drag strip trips in the last 3 months now :-) and LOVING IT!!!)

Andy

washgsxr

ACS55, Thanks for all the information what track is that your running at and will be in touch and let you know how it works out. And sure come on down always good to meet and fellow C7Z owner.

ACS55

I run mainly at Little River Academy aka Temple Dragway. Also run at San Antonio as well.

I look forward to it, PM me is you need anything!

Andy

8850

Assuming stock tune, our cars need a fan switch or the use of manual fan control via a tuner to turn the fan on in the staging lanes. Should be able to keep coolant below 200* and IAT2 much lower with the fan running on a cool night. I ran my best times with my 08 C6 with no more than 180* coolant. I had a 160* tstat to get that cool.

Based on your advice I have two 315-30-18 Hoosiers coming. Will be interesting to see if they eliminate the swerving created with the Mickey's.

I've found that Torco helps. Maybe a mixture would be good to help combat kr with those high temps. In the past when I used it, just enough % to keep kr less than 1*.

23/C8Z

andy, all great advice most of it assume being the norm for trying for the hero runs that bring those times. The mph being a result of the CAI, ice, time down, weight reduction/rotating mass and octane.

I used to pull as much as was loose out of my cars looking for that last .1.


two examples of stock (wife's) cars I've ran with success, having gone quicker than anyone else on a board somewhere over time.

1. I ran a bone stock less than 1,000 mi new TBSS to a bunch of 13.5s at 102 plus and even one 13.49. I did that by pulling the loose stuff, spare tire jack etc. Running less than 1/4 tank even stock air filter on stock wheels and tries. When I did Bolton a big (3200 stall) through the cats no exhaust modifications I got that truck to 12.54 at 108. Guys were doing 10 things and still couldn't run it.

2. did same wit a new 05 grand prix with V8 (when gm started trying again to make their cars fun besides the vette which I wasn't in a position to own with kids being so young). Ran that to a 13.6 at 102. Fwd nonetheless. Learned a technique that I used from then on for stock tires. Credit to a long time Fwd drag racer.

point is this.

little tricks like knowing how to not shorten the track by 2 feet when staging. You should only have the final stage light BARELY lighting solid. It should want to "NOT BE ON" I watch some of these guys who complaints. Or say I'm lying about something done to one of my cars and it's the First thing I teach.

second is air pressure in front tires. Jack it up to max.

third don't drive around the track. STAY IN THE DAMN GROOVE it'll pull a tenth and a mph easy by driving it all over the place.

Fourth stay in the gas ALL THE WAY THROUGH.
another one where guys back off cause they THINK THE ran through the traps.

Like Roth did by logging and watching throttle position, make sure you're ALL THE WAY IN THE WHOLE RUN. Move the seat up you're not out for a cruise. You should be eating the wheel with leverge so your natural position is foot to floor.

save the john force burn out too. Try less first it don't hook? your track prep sucks let some air out and go again. If your 60 isn't where you want on the board as you're going get out of it. Why waste the energy. You'll see it on the board.

also like Roth said, that technique, just wack the gas. No preload is best. Timing of brake pedal drop key also. Why trans brakes work so well. KNOW WHAT YOUR CAR LIKES.

I had more fun trying to knock a tenth or two off a bone stock car than bolting on a bunch of stuff and going much faster. It hones your driving technique.

I won't run mine at the strip. I don't need to. Guys like Roth and Andy make my life easy. I know what mine can do (usually better in atco air) if I so choose. Same as my 08. I can feel it. Car was an 11.40 or so at 120ish car. Long tube and a tune. When you run enough and against people that have run. Your tend to figure it out.

sorry for long post. Just have to go back to basics on technique and common sense. Power to weight ratio. Add up a bunch of hundredths and you're knocking a tenth or more off and picking up a mph here and there. Running less fluids, removing bolts here and there, switching to lighter battery, no washer fluid there's 8 lbs. So many little things to make the hero run lol

why same car different driver on any track or course is two different animals.