LMR build
02-23-2017, 08:34 PM
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
LMR build
My car is at LMR for an 800HP Package plus a little more. I will update as it proceeds, the M7 appears to only lose roughly 10% crank to rear tire.
Stock Baseline, only mod is Halltech Stinger, its on 93 Shell right now.
Stock Baseline, only mod is Halltech Stinger, its on 93 Shell right now.
02-23-2017, 08:42 PM
#2
Race Director
Member Since: Nov 2000
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2017 C5 of the Year Finalist
St. Jude Donor '08
Very cool, but if you removed the Halltech, and made another pull, you'd probably find the other 5% drive train loss...
Good luck with the build, what do they do to get you to the 800 HP mark?
Good luck with the build, what do they do to get you to the 800 HP mark?
Last edited by jbsblownc5; 02-23-2017 at 08:42 PM.
02-23-2017, 09:06 PM
#3
Drifting
Thread Starter
2" ARH Stainless Headers
No cats
160 T-Stat
Damper 15% pulley
Cam and Kit
DOD delete
Replacing the hollow stem valves and minor port work
LMR heat exchanger ( I may put the heat exchanger tank on later)
E85 conversion
GM secondary radiator
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jbsblownc5 (02-24-2017)
02-24-2017, 09:37 PM
#6
Drifting
Thread Starter
Displacement on demand, 8 of the 16 lifters can basically operate the engine on 4 cylinders in low load conditions. This is controlled by the PCM, With the M7 cars it only activates in Econo mode. Deleting this requires replacing those 8 lifters and programming it out of the PCM. They have a tendency to give problems, and you can also use a more aggressive camshaft when you go back to a conventional valve train.
02-24-2017, 09:41 PM
#7
Le Mans Master
I've never had a problem with DOD, can't feel it, don't mind it.
That said, the lifters are heavy due to the added complexity. If you want to run a more aggressive ramp or lift on the cam without getting into the valve bouncing, replacing the DOD lifters is a good start.
For stock builds, though, I've decided to leave mine alone (it doesn't bug me so I won't bug it!)
That said, the lifters are heavy due to the added complexity. If you want to run a more aggressive ramp or lift on the cam without getting into the valve bouncing, replacing the DOD lifters is a good start.
For stock builds, though, I've decided to leave mine alone (it doesn't bug me so I won't bug it!)
02-24-2017, 10:02 PM
#8
Drifting
Thread Starter
I've never had a problem with DOD, can't feel it, don't mind it.
That said, the lifters are heavy due to the added complexity. If you want to run a more aggressive ramp or lift on the cam without getting into the valve bouncing, replacing the DOD lifters is a good start.
For stock builds, though, I've decided to leave mine alone (it doesn't bug me so I won't bug it!)
That said, the lifters are heavy due to the added complexity. If you want to run a more aggressive ramp or lift on the cam without getting into the valve bouncing, replacing the DOD lifters is a good start.
For stock builds, though, I've decided to leave mine alone (it doesn't bug me so I won't bug it!)
In fact LMR typically does not do away with the DOD in the standard package, but I wanted to go a little more aggressive with the camshaft selection and as you mentioned the complexity of the lifter concerns me and thats really the only reason I wanted to go ahead and delete it.
02-25-2017, 01:44 PM
#11
Le Mans Master
Technically, even a 1969 small block requires you to drop the front of the pan to get the timing cover off, but dropping the whole pan would be a pain.
02-25-2017, 03:11 PM
#12
Burning Brakes
Ya lower timing cover needs the pan removed to get it off. I haven't done it, just seen the painstaking events. That's part of why it's about double the cost to swap a cam in a c7 vs c6
02-25-2017, 03:31 PM
#13
Le Mans Master
Most shops just pull the engine on the C7 to install a cam these days... Thats why the labor cost is so high.
Seems like less chance of having oil pan seal leaks when doing it on an engine stand. Not to mention you have to pull the heads to change the lifters. Less chance of scratching stuff up I'd guess.
Also the covers are not O-RING'd like every other LS motor, they actually use sealant like Permatex....more of a chance of leaks.
The downside is, hoping the techs put everything back together EXACTLY how it came apart without breaking clips, holders, routing **** wrong etc etc.
Seems like less chance of having oil pan seal leaks when doing it on an engine stand. Not to mention you have to pull the heads to change the lifters. Less chance of scratching stuff up I'd guess.
Also the covers are not O-RING'd like every other LS motor, they actually use sealant like Permatex....more of a chance of leaks.
The downside is, hoping the techs put everything back together EXACTLY how it came apart without breaking clips, holders, routing **** wrong etc etc.
Last edited by ajrothm; 02-26-2017 at 07:54 AM.
02-25-2017, 07:15 PM
#15
The Consigliere
Member Since: May 2006
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Looks like a great build, OP.
Will be a fun rig.
Will be a fun rig.
03-04-2017, 07:03 PM
#18
Drifting
Thread Starter
Heads ported and polished on LMR's CNC, hollow stem valves replaced, new springs, retainers, keepers, seals, and head clean up etc. Reassembly is underway.
03-04-2017, 09:20 PM
#19
Le Mans Master
Did you already have a cam? Or not doing a cam? Or did they already swap the cam in and haven't done the DOD deletes before the pics?
Looks like they are making quick work of it. Good luck, hopefully it makes good power. Should make 750rw no problem.
Looks like they are making quick work of it. Good luck, hopefully it makes good power. Should make 750rw no problem.
Last edited by ajrothm; 03-04-2017 at 09:25 PM.
