C7 Corvette Camber Kit by AMT Motorsport now available
#1
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C7 Corvette Camber Kit by AMT Motorsport now available
Now Available - C7 Corvette Camber Kit by AMT Motorsport
AMT Motorsport is proud to announce the arrival of the first and only camber kit available for the C7 Corvette. This kit allows adjustment of the lower control arms without having to switch out plates or even remove bolts from the control arms. To switch camber you simply loosen the bolts, rotate the plates one way or the other, re adjust toe and you're back on your way. The kit does include shims for the upper control arms if should you choose or prefer to set your camber and caster by way of shims.
The plates themselves are made from 6061-T6 aluminum. They are red or black anodized to protect against ugly oxidation, to look sexy, and to make the markings on the plates more legible. The markings indicate the amount of camber by way of a "volume" gauge for legibility under the car. "P" or "D" notes whether that plate goes on the passenger or driver side of the car and "Front" or "Back" indicates which way the plates should be facing when installed on the control arms. The 10 sided design of the plate allows for 6 adjustment positions within the cradle of the car. Position 1 pushes the control arms a small amount further than the stock eccentrics so you can expect a little more available negative camber with the AMT kit
The plates are attached to the control arms with all grade 10.9 hardware and yellow chromate coated for corrosion resistance . Bolts, washers, and lockwashers are included for strong and secure installation. The kit comes with 32 1/32'' thick zinc plated shims and 32 1/16'' thick shims to adjust upper control arms as needed. 1/32'' shim removes camber by about .15-.2 degrees, 1/16'' shims are good for .3-.4 degrees.
Because the C7 Corvette has fully adjustable front and rear control arms, it's possible to dial in (or screw up) caster in the rear of the car. To ensure that you're able to get your rear caster settings as perfect as possible, the AMT C7 Camber Kit comes with the Upper Stud Kit for the rear of the car. These studs replace the bolts on your upper control arms to make for easier adjustment by use of shims. A second stud kit can be purchased for the front of the car with your order for a reduced price of $45
Pros of the AMT Motorsport Camber Kit
-10 sided shape allows for easy adjustment of lower control arms
-Allows greater negative camber than factory eccentrics
-Decagon shape locks into the cradle meaning the eccentrics can't slip and try to kill you like the factory units (see video below)
-Car will not go out of alignment from track use. Even if your stock eccentrics don't slip completely, they tend to move. This can change your alignment and destroy your tires and lap times.
-A must for racecars on sticky tires. I think your nuts if you're going fast on Hoosiers with factory eccentrics.
Cons
-Your alignment will cost more and your alignment guy might hate you. They're used to man handling the stock eccentrics with a quick twist of the wrench. These take time to get into place.
-Probably overkill for a street car on street tires. If you do 1 or 2 track days a year without sticky rubber, the stock eccentrics are fine. These would probably not be worth the hassle.
-You will need to cut the forward most factory bolt in the rear of the car with a Sawzall. This factory bolt cannot be removed as it interferes with the gas tank (Thanks GM!). However, we will very soon have a "keyed" camber plate available that will fit over the factory bolt allowing you to keep the bolt in place and still lock in your alignment settings. This piece will be available in about 2 weeks. If anyone buys the kit before these plates are available, and starts to install the kit and realize they'd rather not cut the bolt, AMT will ship you these new plates free of charge
Here's a video of what can happen when your stock eccentrics completely let go on track:
Pricing for the whole kit is $465 plus shipping. However members of this forum can save 10% by using coupon code C7Forum at check out.
Follow THIS LINK to order from our website.
If anyone has any questions at all please let me know and I'll answer all that I can. Thanks for looking!
Last edited by Mark@AMT Motorsport; 03-10-2018 at 11:47 AM.
#3
Drifting
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Received our first kit from Mark. I will post our installation experience. This should be a must buy for guys that want to do it yourself. Even with our alignment equipment available we rather have a secure safe system for our customers like this, thanks
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Mark@AMT Motorsport (03-21-2017)
#5
Melting Slicks
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My AMT kit should deliver Tuesday. Looking forward to getting a "final" alignment on the car. Finally found someone local who appears competent at doing rear caster. Now the debate is whether to set the car up on the 18" Forgelines or factory wheels as there is about a .5" diameter difference. Should hopefully only have a minimal impact either way.
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Mark@AMT Motorsport (03-21-2017)
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Mark@AMT Motorsport (03-21-2017)
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Melting Slicks
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Broke my only blade cutting the bolt on the rear bolt so I wasn't able to finish last night but the rest of the install went well! I actually ran into an issue with the passenger front bolt where it would not clear the front spring regardless of how I turned it (Driver's side was tight but was able to get it removed). Wasn't worth damaging the spring so I left it and will cut it out tonight along with the two rears.
Went ahead and installed the upper control arm bolts on all 4 corners at the same time.
I'll install my new Tractive shocks tonight and go get it aligned Friday morning.
Went ahead and installed the upper control arm bolts on all 4 corners at the same time.
I'll install my new Tractive shocks tonight and go get it aligned Friday morning.
Last edited by fleming23; 03-23-2017 at 10:33 AM.
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Mark@AMT Motorsport (03-23-2017)
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Eric you were able to rotate the front passenger bolt above the spring but you weren't on the driver side? Weird. Wonder if you could have played around with jacking the wheel in some fashion to manipulate the spring in some way to get the bolt out. Didn't have this problem on the first car install. Also weird that it happened on one side and not the other.
Last edited by Mark@AMT Motorsport; 03-23-2017 at 11:05 AM.
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Eric you were able to rotate the front passenger bolt above the spring but you weren't on the driver side? Weird. Wonder if you could have played around with jacking the wheel in some fashion to manipulate the spring in some way to get the bolt out. Didn't have this problem on the first car install. Also weird that it happened on one side and not the other.
#10
Drifting
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Thanks for the info guys. We hope to start ours today ahead of a show this weekend. If we get it done I will put a mirror under the rear to show them off!
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Mark@AMT Motorsport (03-23-2017)
#11
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I've got a Z07. My front stock eccentric bolts were a tight fit to get them out over the spring, but after turning the bolt so the flatter side of the cam was on the bottom it slid out over the spring without any trouble - it was tight, but came out okay.
I'm still confused on the "Front" and "Back" orientation of the plates!?!?
Can you straighten me out, Mark?
The last email I got from you indicated that (if I understand correctly) the plate that says "Front" on it goes on the bolt on the rear side of the LCA bushing - i.e., as you look at the plate from the rear you'll see "Front", indicating that you are looking towards the front of the car. Is that correct???
Bob
I'm still confused on the "Front" and "Back" orientation of the plates!?!?
Can you straighten me out, Mark?
The last email I got from you indicated that (if I understand correctly) the plate that says "Front" on it goes on the bolt on the rear side of the LCA bushing - i.e., as you look at the plate from the rear you'll see "Front", indicating that you are looking towards the front of the car. Is that correct???
Bob
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Mark@AMT Motorsport (03-23-2017)
#12
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Bob,
Your last sentence I think over complicates it. "Front" means the plate faces the front of the car and "back" means it faces the back of the car - nothing more nothing less. I'm sending you out a new kit today to replace your prototype kit. Will include the manual as well which is more C7 specific than the one you had. Thanks for chiming on the front spring issue.
Your last sentence I think over complicates it. "Front" means the plate faces the front of the car and "back" means it faces the back of the car - nothing more nothing less. I'm sending you out a new kit today to replace your prototype kit. Will include the manual as well which is more C7 specific than the one you had. Thanks for chiming on the front spring issue.
#14
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I received my kit last week but will not be installing for a few weeks until the weather warms up as I have no heat in my garage. I have a question regarding the shims for the upper wishbones. From the pictures above and I just went and took a quick look at my car, the chassis appears to be recessed where the dog bones are bolted on and it does not look like it would be possible to use the shims. I love the idea that the dog bones would not need to be pulled off the stud for each adjustment but I do not see how that is possible. Am I missing something or should we just be using different sized washers instead of the the shims? Thanks.
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BEZ06 (03-23-2017)
#16
Race Director
You can see that there are no "recessed" areas where the washers/shims go - in fact the washers/shims sit in top of those raised areas.
Below is a picture of left front UCA, and you can see that there are no recessed areas under the front wheel dogbones either:
And below you can see the front UCA dogbones with the stud kit installed and shims between the frame and dogbone:
Bottom line - the stud kit allows use of shims with no problem at all!!
.
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Mark@AMT Motorsport (03-23-2017)
#18
Drifting
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Looking at these photos, for those that will be using the shims often. It may help to bend the upper tab of the shim some for ease of removing and installing. I am hoping to simply add shims for the street and remove for the track then a quick toe set. This after much time spent finding the correct wanted specs.
#20
Melting Slicks
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Went back to my front eccentric bolt today and was able to get it out with an extension and some gentle hammering.
I did have to go to Home Depot and buy a Dewalt 20v sawzall to make the bolt cutting go faster. My little body saw wasn't going to get it, I would have been there all night!
Time to get it aligned in the morning!
I did have to go to Home Depot and buy a Dewalt 20v sawzall to make the bolt cutting go faster. My little body saw wasn't going to get it, I would have been there all night!
Time to get it aligned in the morning!