Bugstyvy

This is for an 89 Mustang BTW
Wondering about reliability, etc (know lemon?)

Patman

I had an SN92 Paxton on my old 87 Mustang GT and it was extremely reliable. I had it installed by J&P Performance back in 1994 and raced it for 3 years, making over 250 quarter mile runs. I never had any problems with the blower at all, or my 5.0 engine either, although I went through seven T5 trannies!

The key to making a Paxton last a long time is to change it's oil frequently. It uses Type F tranny fluid, and I would make sure to change it before and after every trip to the dragstrip, and about every 1000km of street driving. It only used a few ounces of fluid, and some of it would burn off after driving it hard, so that's why you gotta keep an eye on that fluid to make sure the blower lives a long life.

Putting the Paxton on that Mustang was the best mod I've ever done on any car. It only cost me $2500 for a brand new Paxton, and that included installation and taxes! (J&P were running a special that year at Performance World) It only took them three hours to install it, and it would've been quicker but they kept having to stop to answer the phone in the shop! My best ET in that car was a 12.16 at 112mph on slicks (1.59 60ft) I removed some weight from the car (it was 2965lbs on a 1/8th tank) but the engine was still 100% bone stock. I had 3.55 gears, Mac shorty headers, hollowed out stock cats with the stock H Pipe, 2.5" Mac catback with Dynomax mufflers. I was running 8psi of boost, and had my base timing advanced slightly to 12 degrees (in order to do this without detonation, I was running a 50/50 mix of 110 octane race fuel with Sunoco 94) It was also rare because I decided to still run the stock speed density setup, instead of converting to mass air like most people back then did. I actually think my car ran a bit quicker without having to worry about a mass air meter, and the driveability was perfect. That car was a lot of fun, I ended up selling it for only $10,000 in order to buy the 98 Firebird Formula I factory ordered in early 98.

Here's a shot of it from London Motorsports Park:



Here's a shot under the hood (I didn't care much about keeping it clean under the hood, just wanted it to go fast)

Bugstyvy

so $800 is a good deal with the MAF for the stock injectors?
used with 10K on it?

Konstantin

great deal ! if the kit is complete, if its just a head unit then its not.

paxton and vortech are really the same, they come from the same place. if you've got aftermarket heads and other upgrades, stock injectors wont work, so that MAF is useless, but if the engine is stock they you can use it.

- Kons

0Arun@ChampionMotors

I wouldn't bother with it. It's fine but it's really, really old school tech. Vortech has just released the Si-trim which replaces the S-trim but is good for about 775 horse. If you search around on the Mustang boards you can usually find used kits for around $1500.

Bugstyvy

I was gonna put it on a stock mustang.....hehe I doubt I'll get to 775(without a 400 shot),

I just wanna have some fun.....$800 seemed like a good price for everything needed for an install. $1500 isnt in the budget!!

There was also a Novi2000 for $1600

Konstantin

stock block wont handle more than 500-550 rwhp reliably regardless, and new SI kit wont be selling for 1500 anytime soon. so i still say old school or not, 800 bucks for a kit in good working order is a good deal !

- Kons

0Arun@ChampionMotors

Problem is those ball drive blowers don't last long if there not maintained. Getting replacement parts are also very hard to find if blower needs a rebuild-the seals are notorious for leaking oil all over the impellar.

The Novi would be the better deal.

FWIW-my last Stang was a 89 Notch, with a S-trim it ran 10.7@127 with just the blower and a stick and Nitto's. The factory Ford shorts can handle alot of power. Back in 93 I ran 10.3@133 in my 91 before the block split in half.

Konstantin

stock 5.0 with an S trim wont make enough power to run 10.7@127 unless you had aftermarket heads/cam/intake, ( how much did it weight ? ). factory ford shorts wont take more than 550-600 rwhp, not sure how much is " a lot " but they split in half at that level. to run 10.3@133 you must have at least 500-550rwhp in a stick car with full weight.( on slicks, with 3.73 ), which is the right HP to split the block, some last longer some dont.

- Kons

ps. i worked for Joe at DaSilva racing, i've seen enough cracked blocks

0Arun@ChampionMotors

Well just because you might not have done it that doesn't mean it's not possible. My friend Super Mario actually ran 9.90's back in 96 with his GT with stock heads, cam, intake was a Cobra-this is with a Vortech Aftercooler. This is waaayyy before the day of dyno's, once the coolant overflow started to burp it was time to change a head gasket-pretty simple. There are so many 5.0's that can run 10's with just a blower and some headers it's not funny-if you haven't seen it then you must of missed the 5.0 parade. With the tuning equipment available today it would be even easier, we were using EGT's to guage A/F and were pulling plugs at the end of the quarter-pretty old school.

BTW-it only takes 450 rwhp to run 127, just look at the C6 Z06-it can do it on radials. The Stang needs a tire because of it's short wheelbase and live axle-along with it's 3.35 first gear.

PS-Paul Silva is the one that you should be taking notes from

Konstantin

i must of missed the parade , how much boost do you need to take 180rwhp stock 5.0 engine to 450rwhp mark ( or ~500rwhp - more realistic ) ? a lot more than stock bottom end will handle.

c6z06 and 89 mustang are two very different cars and comparing trap speeds of two is pointless, it takes less power to do 127mph in a vette than a stang for many reasons.

even Paul Silva will call BS on many stock 5.0s running 10s with just blower and headers. sorry. i had a 5.0 myself and spent time with both Paul and Joe working on my car and others' cars, its not as easy as some people think even if jesus was driving it.

0Arun@ChampionMotors

I've had 3 Stangs, one ran 8's, 9's, 10's and 11's-that was the first, the next ran 10's right of the bat with what I learned from the first, the 3 third ran 10's with less parts then all of them-this starting waaaayyy back in 91.
It's too bad the cars are all long gone with Lil Johnny actually buying my last one.
I'm sorry you feel that it cannot be done but facts are it has been done and done over and over. As soon as someone says it cannot be done, it get's done-that's when you learn to take off the blinders.

Sorry for taking this thread off topic Bugstyvy. What may seem like a good deal now might not seem that way down the road. The SN92 is basically 60's technology. It's one of those pay now or pay later deals.
Man I've been looking for a nice trunker for the last 5 years, I'm envious of you! It would a awesome to have that to abuse then my poor Z, and a hell of a lot cheaper too!

Konstantin

ok, we both agree that you need at least 450 rwhp, now, 10-12lb of boost will give you around 300 rwhp on a stock 5.0 with exhaust, where do you get another 150 hp ? and how does bottom end handle more than say 15-20lb of boost if its all stock ? just does not add up ...

with aftermarket bottom end, no problem. with heads/cam but stock bottom end, no problem. but with stock everything + boost i dont see it.

sorry , i understand its off-topic, but its a friendly debate here. mustangs suck anyways ( j/k )

- Kons

0Arun@ChampionMotors

It's all the tune, same way some C5's can run 140+ on the stock short and some don't.

Bugstyvy

I was just gonna attach the $800 SN92 to a stock P.O.S Mustang that I got for $250 and try and blow it up.....
Doesnt take much for a stock 5L to do 10's.

With this set up I got for $1000 bucks I should be in the low 10's

Konstantin

tell us how you make out

Bugstyvy

If it got dropped out of a plane it wouldnt do a low 10 in the quarter