sound deadening
10-21-2014, 04:03 PM
#22
Racer
Most of the noise comes from the vent on the right hand side of the car just above the rear speaker. It leads directly to the inside of the inner rear fender. That is were the air goes out when you shut the trunk lid. If you block it two things will happen, 1 your rear lid will not close well and the second is that heating and cooling will be diminish do to the lack of exit holes. I did a total Duramat process and the sound did go down a little but not as much as I thought. The heat however did go down a lot. The C7's had a similar problem but they changed the rear inner wheel wells with what looks like a fabric covering similar to what Audi, Mercedes uses. Good Luck.
10-22-2014, 06:02 PM
#23
Burning Brakes
Probably the cheapest sound deadener. I installed the Frost King on the centre console for reducing the heat transfer. Not to bash the OP on sound deadening, but aren't all sports cars supposed to be loud. I am thinking of doing the bypass on the Z06 mufflers to get a louder bark at WOT. Like I have always said, If I wanted a quiet ride, I would have bought a Cadillac. Again not to bash the OP. 
10-22-2014, 07:33 PM
#24
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
Probably the cheapest sound deadener. I installed the Frost King on the centre console for reducing the heat transfer. Not to bash the OP on sound deadening, but aren't all sports cars supposed to be loud. I am thinking of doing the bypass on the Z06 mufflers to get a louder bark at WOT. Like I have always said, If I wanted a quiet ride, I would have bought a Cadillac. Again not to bash the OP. 
i like a "little" quiet on the inside tho. the heat doesn t bother me, just a little loud in there.
11-01-2014, 11:47 AM
#25
Block the vent, your trunk will close fine just don't SLAM it shut causing a huge pressure spike. Older cars never had the vents and never had a problem. If someone slams it shut tell them to walk home.
As for the sound deadening, dynamat and the alike only stop RESONATING noise from the metal. This will help a panel stop vibrating at its harmonic frequency due to increasing the mass. It only stops the high frequency transmission coming through which is least of a worry in a car as road noise is typically in the 200hz-400hz zone.
The only way to stop that is to run 20" of insulation...which for obvious reasons won't work in a car... or run a de-coupled sound barrier made of mass loaded vinyl. This stuff is HEAVY...1lb or 2lb per square foot depending which type you get. The way it works is you use it as a floating barrier for sound to try and penetrate on its own. The mass will soak the sound up and you hear nothing. However if you apply it right onto the floors or metal parts of the car, the metal will vibrate the mass and you loose a ton of effective sound reduction.
Best way to do it: 25% coverage of your butyl/asphalt stick down on the metal, then a layer of closed cell foam (doesn't hold moisture like jute will...which will work just has the possibility to hold moisture), then put the MLV overtop. Make sure to seal ALL of the cracks and pieces of the MLV to make a proper barrier. Any holes will just allow sound to come through and there goes all your efforts.
You can't do much about the sound from the glass...but at least this will reduce the exhaust noise a ton.
As for the sound deadening, dynamat and the alike only stop RESONATING noise from the metal. This will help a panel stop vibrating at its harmonic frequency due to increasing the mass. It only stops the high frequency transmission coming through which is least of a worry in a car as road noise is typically in the 200hz-400hz zone.
The only way to stop that is to run 20" of insulation...which for obvious reasons won't work in a car... or run a de-coupled sound barrier made of mass loaded vinyl. This stuff is HEAVY...1lb or 2lb per square foot depending which type you get. The way it works is you use it as a floating barrier for sound to try and penetrate on its own. The mass will soak the sound up and you hear nothing. However if you apply it right onto the floors or metal parts of the car, the metal will vibrate the mass and you loose a ton of effective sound reduction.
Best way to do it: 25% coverage of your butyl/asphalt stick down on the metal, then a layer of closed cell foam (doesn't hold moisture like jute will...which will work just has the possibility to hold moisture), then put the MLV overtop. Make sure to seal ALL of the cracks and pieces of the MLV to make a proper barrier. Any holes will just allow sound to come through and there goes all your efforts.
You can't do much about the sound from the glass...but at least this will reduce the exhaust noise a ton.
11-03-2014, 01:20 PM
#30
Melting Slicks
I did my C5 quite a few years ago.
It was from a forum vendor called MadVet.
I stripped the interior to the bone.
Did the floor, under the console, in the doors, wall behind the seats, and doubled up in the hatch area.
The kit came complete and most pieces cut to fit.
This was a very light product.
I am still very impressed with the interior sound difference this kit made. It did not drown out the beautiful Corsa sound, but really helped to reduce the road noise.
Im not sure if anyone has picked up this product since MadVet dissapeared.
It was from a forum vendor called MadVet.
I stripped the interior to the bone.
Did the floor, under the console, in the doors, wall behind the seats, and doubled up in the hatch area.
The kit came complete and most pieces cut to fit.
This was a very light product.
I am still very impressed with the interior sound difference this kit made. It did not drown out the beautiful Corsa sound, but really helped to reduce the road noise.
Im not sure if anyone has picked up this product since MadVet dissapeared.
11-03-2014, 02:06 PM
#31
Le Mans Master
I bought the C3 convert version of that kit from Madvette as well when he sold it for $80 (4 or 5 yrs ago). I haven't installed it yet but will this spring. The MLV would be placed on top of that aluminum backed closed cell kit, then the carpet. As Quik59 and Apocolipse said it is all about layering to isolate and limit sound and heat intrusion. I think that there is a forum vendor selling the kit now - vettemod or corvettemod maybe.
Last edited by gdh; 11-03-2014 at 02:09 PM.
11-05-2014, 08:47 AM
#36
6th Gear
Member Since: Aug 2013
Location: Winnipeg Manitoba
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heat insulation
I went to a local importer and bought a foil shipping container liner from him. They use them to reflect heat while goods are being transported from overseas. Cut it to fit the floor of my C3 and glued it down. then purchased 1/4" closed cell polyethylene foam from a local shop, glued that on top of the foil, then another layer of foil. Works fantastic! Total cost maybe $60. hope that is a help.
as most ppl are going with something like Dynamat/clone or spray from cos like Second Skin, DEI etc on which has the mass to deaden the sound and for heat add things like al foil backed closed cell foam, spray again with ceramic spheres like Second Skin etc. There are plenty threads on the CF or just search Google/Bing on how to make your own spray on heat paint using regular latex and adding ceramic micro ***** which is a much cheaper route than going with the name brand suppliers and ppl have had excellent results.
I wasn't aware of the sound and heat issues in the C5/6's but owning a C3 we sure get it. I am doing this next spring when I add Vintage Air and install my new carpet, door panels etc.
I'm looking fwd on reading what you guys found worked best.
as most ppl are going with something like Dynamat/clone or spray from cos like Second Skin, DEI etc on which has the mass to deaden the sound and for heat add things like al foil backed closed cell foam, spray again with ceramic spheres like Second Skin etc. There are plenty threads on the CF or just search Google/Bing on how to make your own spray on heat paint using regular latex and adding ceramic micro ***** which is a much cheaper route than going with the name brand suppliers and ppl have had excellent results.I wasn't aware of the sound and heat issues in the C5/6's but owning a C3 we sure get it. I am doing this next spring when I add Vintage Air and install my new carpet, door panels etc.
I'm looking fwd on reading what you guys found worked best.
11-05-2014, 09:18 PM
#38
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
First off to OP, do you really need sound deadning thing? i drove C6 pretty big difference between my C5 Z06 and C6 stock, C6 was waay quieter than mine, plus i did sound deadning on mine because i bought that kit from crazy something vendor here loooong time ago and been collecting dust....one fine day i did in driveway.
I think you going overkill no offence i apologize if i do, if that sound really concerned than just buy the same kit i had from crazycowboy here, 125-150 plus 6-7 hrs of labor wont do any harm, even if you not happy, you aint loosing huge $$$, think about it...twice...lol.
Mine has reduced sound i say roughly 10%.....i am dam happy for the dollar i spent and only few hrs of labor......win situation.
I like little racy sound not too much just a little......if too quiet i aint owning a corvette or i am dam too fn old and move on audi. Or just leave it as is and let it rumble.
I think you going overkill no offence i apologize if i do, if that sound really concerned than just buy the same kit i had from crazycowboy here, 125-150 plus 6-7 hrs of labor wont do any harm, even if you not happy, you aint loosing huge $$$, think about it...twice...lol.
Mine has reduced sound i say roughly 10%.....i am dam happy for the dollar i spent and only few hrs of labor......win situation.
I like little racy sound not too much just a little......if too quiet i aint owning a corvette or i am dam too fn old and move on audi. Or just leave it as is and let it rumble.
couldn t find anyone called crazycowboy. will keep searching.
11-08-2014, 05:28 PM
#39
Le Mans Master
