My first polish - still see stratches
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
My first polish - still see stratches
Well, I tried my hand at the Porter Cable 7424 XP Dual Action Orbital Polisher and Wolfgang 3.0 swirl remover and orange pad on my truck lid. While I noticed a remarkable improvement on the shine many of the small scratches are still there. All the swirl marks seem to be gone but striaght lines stratches still exists. I did this proceedure twice following the instructions from AutoGeek.net videos. These scratches probably occured with all the wiping I've done in 3 years preparing for car shows, its a 2009 black C6.
Should I continue with the Orange pad or switch to a more abrasive pad or go a different route. Any advise would be welcomed.
Should I continue with the Orange pad or switch to a more abrasive pad or go a different route. Any advise would be welcomed.
#2
Le Mans Master
You now did to use a polish with a white polishing pad, then use a finishing polish with a black pad, seal/wax with a red pad. Blackfire products work well on black paint. If you can feel the scratches with your finger nail you may have to wet sand. Good luck........
Last edited by Sunset-C6; 06-07-2012 at 11:54 AM.
#3
When you state you did this procedure twice - define the procedure. Also, you should follow up with a white pad after using an orange pad to refine the finish.
If you can feel the scratches with your finger nail, then be careful in your correction approach as you do not want to remove too much clear. Your goal should be visible reduction of the scratch and not total elimination.
I would try Meguiars line particularly M105 and M205. M105 is aggressive so definitely do a test spot first. Start with the white pad and M105.
When I did my black C6, I ended up using M105 with an orange pad on the hood and rear deck. The rest of the vehicle I used M105 with a white pad.
I then followed up with M205 and a white pad.
Also, what size and type of pads are you using? How many pads do you have? Are you cleaning the pads after each panel?
In general, you'll find it easier and more effective to use 5.5" pads with the PC. When a pad gets loaded with product, it will not be as effective in removing defects so cleaning and switching pads often will help in obtaining better results.
I used 3 orange pads and 4 white pads when I did my C6, and I cleaned the pad after each panel. When I did the hood, I cleaned the pads at the half way point.
I prefer to apply the LSP by hand so the majority of my pads are LC 5.5" 7/8" thick flat orange and white pads.
The white pads are very versatile and can be used with a variety of products like polishes, glazes, etc.
If you can feel the scratches with your finger nail, then be careful in your correction approach as you do not want to remove too much clear. Your goal should be visible reduction of the scratch and not total elimination.
I would try Meguiars line particularly M105 and M205. M105 is aggressive so definitely do a test spot first. Start with the white pad and M105.
When I did my black C6, I ended up using M105 with an orange pad on the hood and rear deck. The rest of the vehicle I used M105 with a white pad.
I then followed up with M205 and a white pad.
Also, what size and type of pads are you using? How many pads do you have? Are you cleaning the pads after each panel?
In general, you'll find it easier and more effective to use 5.5" pads with the PC. When a pad gets loaded with product, it will not be as effective in removing defects so cleaning and switching pads often will help in obtaining better results.
I used 3 orange pads and 4 white pads when I did my C6, and I cleaned the pad after each panel. When I did the hood, I cleaned the pads at the half way point.
I prefer to apply the LSP by hand so the majority of my pads are LC 5.5" 7/8" thick flat orange and white pads.
The white pads are very versatile and can be used with a variety of products like polishes, glazes, etc.
Last edited by wysiwyg; 06-07-2012 at 01:27 PM.
#4
Racer
Thread Starter
When you state you did this procedure twice - define the procedure. Also, you should follow up with a white pad after using an orange pad to refine the finish.
If you can feel the scratches with your finger nail, then be careful in your correction approach as you do not want to remove too much clear. Your goal should be visible reduction of the scratch and not total elimination.
I would try Meguiars line particularly M105 and M205. M105 is aggressive so definitely do a test spot first. Start with the white pad and M105.
When I did my black C6, I ended up using M105 with an orange pad on the hood and rear deck. The rest of the vehicle I used M105 with a white pad.
I then followed up with M205 and a white pad.
Also, what size and type of pads are you using? How many pads do you have? Are you cleaning the pads after each panel?
In general, you'll find it easier and more effective to use 5.5" pads with the PC. When a pad gets loaded with product, it will not be as effective in removing defects so cleaning and switching pads often will help in obtaining better results.
I used 3 orange pads and 4 white pads when I did my C6, and I cleaned the pad after each panel. When I did the hood, I cleaned the pads at the half way point.
I prefer to apply the LSP by hand so the majority of my pads are LC 5.5" 7/8" thick flat orange and white pads.
The white pads are very versatile and can be used with a variety of products like polishes, glazes, etc.
If you can feel the scratches with your finger nail, then be careful in your correction approach as you do not want to remove too much clear. Your goal should be visible reduction of the scratch and not total elimination.
I would try Meguiars line particularly M105 and M205. M105 is aggressive so definitely do a test spot first. Start with the white pad and M105.
When I did my black C6, I ended up using M105 with an orange pad on the hood and rear deck. The rest of the vehicle I used M105 with a white pad.
I then followed up with M205 and a white pad.
Also, what size and type of pads are you using? How many pads do you have? Are you cleaning the pads after each panel?
In general, you'll find it easier and more effective to use 5.5" pads with the PC. When a pad gets loaded with product, it will not be as effective in removing defects so cleaning and switching pads often will help in obtaining better results.
I used 3 orange pads and 4 white pads when I did my C6, and I cleaned the pad after each panel. When I did the hood, I cleaned the pads at the half way point.
I prefer to apply the LSP by hand so the majority of my pads are LC 5.5" 7/8" thick flat orange and white pads.
The white pads are very versatile and can be used with a variety of products like polishes, glazes, etc.
Brand new pads were used on half the trunk lid.
#5
I'd try the M105 and M205. I've had very good success and results using the combo. I know Meguiars is selling their professional (which includes M105/205) line in select Walmarts.
See http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums...-Walmart/page2 for locations
#6
Racer
Thread Starter
thanks for all the advice. I will try 105/205. I found the great article on the product.
http://www.detailedimage.com/Ask-a-P...ars-m105-m205/
http://www.detailedimage.com/Ask-a-P...ars-m105-m205/
#7
I have been impressed at what can be corrected by hand with M105.
There are times when I need to touch up an area which has been scratched and instead of breaking out the polisher, etc, I use M105 by hand. It really is amazing the amount of correction achieved by hand using M105.
Good luck!
There are times when I need to touch up an area which has been scratched and instead of breaking out the polisher, etc, I use M105 by hand. It really is amazing the amount of correction achieved by hand using M105.
Good luck!
#8
Former Vendor
In most cases you don't need to purchase additional polishes the Wolfgang polishes are made in conjunction with Menzerna and offer similar cutting but diminish (they break down as used). I would also never use a more abrasive pad than orange with PC-XP as it will take far longer to remove all the marring created.
Deeper scratches felt by finger nail will not be removed with these polishes. Sometimes some wet-sanding is needed and best done by a professional for deeper scratching also. In most cases an orange pad with some pressure on high speed (do not stop rotation) should remove heavier marring and scratches and may leave lighter marring. Followup with the FG and white pad on high with same pressure. Remember to work these polishes till they flash as they break down while working them. (it sounds like from above you are likely not using them long enough or perhaps not using some pressure).
Deeper scratches felt by finger nail will not be removed with these polishes. Sometimes some wet-sanding is needed and best done by a professional for deeper scratching also. In most cases an orange pad with some pressure on high speed (do not stop rotation) should remove heavier marring and scratches and may leave lighter marring. Followup with the FG and white pad on high with same pressure. Remember to work these polishes till they flash as they break down while working them. (it sounds like from above you are likely not using them long enough or perhaps not using some pressure).
#9
Former Vendor
No need to purchase more products, with this method that you just described, you will run into the same problem.
Since I have had my share of rock hard Vette paint, I can tell you that foam pads are not going to level that paint.
Look into MF pads at least. My choice would be wool pads to eliminate scratches and swirls.
But what ever combo you use, if the defects are not removed after the compounding stage,
you don't move onto the next stage, you repeat the first one until you remove the imperfections. Again, on Vette paint foam is not the way to go to remove paint.
Any pictures of your car in the sun we could see?
PS: if you can feel the scratch, leave it alone, do not sand it. Those are too deep.
Since I have had my share of rock hard Vette paint, I can tell you that foam pads are not going to level that paint.
Look into MF pads at least. My choice would be wool pads to eliminate scratches and swirls.
But what ever combo you use, if the defects are not removed after the compounding stage,
using 5 slow passes up and down then left to right
Any pictures of your car in the sun we could see?
PS: if you can feel the scratch, leave it alone, do not sand it. Those are too deep.
#11
Former Vendor
If you don't listen to me, listen to Rich98, although you can use your Porter Cable with a wool pad - no need a rotary, especially if you never used it.
#12
Racer
Thread Starter
Last night I tried the Meguairs 105 with more pressure on the PC and was amazed. All the swirls and scratches are gone. Tonight I plan to use 205 to smooth it out.
I will try the wool pad this weekend on the rest of the car.
thanks for your comments.
I will try the wool pad this weekend on the rest of the car.
thanks for your comments.