SPLAT! Bug Gut Removal
#1
Drifting
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SPLAT! Bug Gut Removal
I've tried several methods over the years. Some work better than others.
This forum being a wealth of great ideas and advice, I figured I'd check and see if anyone has any tried and true methods to removal of bug splatter with minimal chance of putting scratches in the clear.
Let's hear 'em. Thanks.
This forum being a wealth of great ideas and advice, I figured I'd check and see if anyone has any tried and true methods to removal of bug splatter with minimal chance of putting scratches in the clear.
Let's hear 'em. Thanks.
#2
Instructor
Member Since: Jun 2005
Location: Tampa FL
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First make sure you keep a good coat of wax on the front end. Next I would hit the front and mirrors with some detailer before heading out to make sure the front stays slick.
I also use Rejex on the front. It is a sealant that is very slippery. I find I can easily wipe the bug splatters off with just a MF misted with some detail spray when I do these things.
If you are still having trouble I would soak them. You can just use water or detail spray. Don't rub them as it could scratch. Soak them until they begin to disinegrate. The same holds true for bird droppings.
We have love bugs here in FL. I try to avoid driving the Vette during the hours they are out but I keep a fresh coat of wax and hit it with detailer and I have not had much trouble.
Good luck.
I also use Rejex on the front. It is a sealant that is very slippery. I find I can easily wipe the bug splatters off with just a MF misted with some detail spray when I do these things.
If you are still having trouble I would soak them. You can just use water or detail spray. Don't rub them as it could scratch. Soak them until they begin to disinegrate. The same holds true for bird droppings.
We have love bugs here in FL. I try to avoid driving the Vette during the hours they are out but I keep a fresh coat of wax and hit it with detailer and I have not had much trouble.
Good luck.
#4
Melting Slicks
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[b]Removing Bug Residue[/b]
Bug Residue:
Dried bug remains are both abrasive and acidic (pH 3.0-4.0) and can scratch paint or glass surfaces, many times the acids will "cloud" or "etch" surfaces as they contain highly acidic concentrates, and should be carefully removed as soon as possible They produce what acts like a super-adhesive on impact (especially when heated or when they have remained on the vehicle surface for any amount of time) you almost need a crowbar to separate these substances from the paint, windshield, headlights or front end of your car.
Do not scrub hardened/dried bug residue as it is very abrasive and will scratch the paint surface, once they are softened (re-liquefied) it enables their removal with less likelihood of damage to the paint surface
Using an IPA (isopropyl alcohol) or a non-ammonia based type glass cleaner, (ammonia acts as an acid accelerant) or a gel alcohol hand cleaner (Purell®) place a small amount onto the immediate area, let dwell for about for 2-3 minutes or so and then either remove with a Pinnacle Bug Sponge (autogeek.net) or use detailers clay to encapsulate it, and flush with water to rinse away and wipe dry. Pre-soak heavy bug contamination with
IPA soaked towel(s) and let dwell for 4-5 minutes before removing.
Avoid using a QD spray to flush residue, as they contain carnauba wax, which will seal the acid and not allow it to dissipate. Using an alkaline rinse of baking soda and water (to neutralize the acid) as soon as is practical is highly recommended, if the affected paintwork is not neutralized any remaining acid residue will be reactivated each time it comes into contact with water.
If the affected paintwork is not neutralized any remaining acid residue will be reactivated each time it comes into contact with water. Water contains 2- hydrogen and 1-oxygen atom and will acts as a catalyst and a carrier system for acid. Oxygen is an oxidizer; ozone is an allotropic form of oxygen (an oxidizer is any component that emits oxygen); many chemical compounds react to slight heating and an oxidizing process. Ad water (dew, rain, car washing etc) so now you have an acid + water +oxygen + ozone all of which equates to a highly concentrated acidic solution, which causes a concave indentation (acid etching) to the paint surface.
This should be neutralized by using an appropriate product (Automotive International, A B C Decontamination/Neutralization wash system (http://www.autoint.com). If the paint or glass surface has been etched the surface can be levelled with a suitable polish and then apply a paint protection.
JonM
Dried bug remains are both abrasive and acidic (pH 3.0-4.0) and can scratch paint or glass surfaces, many times the acids will "cloud" or "etch" surfaces as they contain highly acidic concentrates, and should be carefully removed as soon as possible They produce what acts like a super-adhesive on impact (especially when heated or when they have remained on the vehicle surface for any amount of time) you almost need a crowbar to separate these substances from the paint, windshield, headlights or front end of your car.
Do not scrub hardened/dried bug residue as it is very abrasive and will scratch the paint surface, once they are softened (re-liquefied) it enables their removal with less likelihood of damage to the paint surface
Using an IPA (isopropyl alcohol) or a non-ammonia based type glass cleaner, (ammonia acts as an acid accelerant) or a gel alcohol hand cleaner (Purell®) place a small amount onto the immediate area, let dwell for about for 2-3 minutes or so and then either remove with a Pinnacle Bug Sponge (autogeek.net) or use detailers clay to encapsulate it, and flush with water to rinse away and wipe dry. Pre-soak heavy bug contamination with
IPA soaked towel(s) and let dwell for 4-5 minutes before removing.
Avoid using a QD spray to flush residue, as they contain carnauba wax, which will seal the acid and not allow it to dissipate. Using an alkaline rinse of baking soda and water (to neutralize the acid) as soon as is practical is highly recommended, if the affected paintwork is not neutralized any remaining acid residue will be reactivated each time it comes into contact with water.
If the affected paintwork is not neutralized any remaining acid residue will be reactivated each time it comes into contact with water. Water contains 2- hydrogen and 1-oxygen atom and will acts as a catalyst and a carrier system for acid. Oxygen is an oxidizer; ozone is an allotropic form of oxygen (an oxidizer is any component that emits oxygen); many chemical compounds react to slight heating and an oxidizing process. Ad water (dew, rain, car washing etc) so now you have an acid + water +oxygen + ozone all of which equates to a highly concentrated acidic solution, which causes a concave indentation (acid etching) to the paint surface.
This should be neutralized by using an appropriate product (Automotive International, A B C Decontamination/Neutralization wash system (http://www.autoint.com). If the paint or glass surface has been etched the surface can be levelled with a suitable polish and then apply a paint protection.
JonM
#5
Team Owner
I just use Meguire's bug n tar remover wipes
You can carry them in your car and its easily disposable.
I also carry Z-6 in one car with microfiber towel and Sonus QD and microfiber towel in another car. But the towels from Meguire's are less messy and a easy fix.
I also carry Z-6 in one car with microfiber towel and Sonus QD and microfiber towel in another car. But the towels from Meguire's are less messy and a easy fix.
#8
Team Owner
RejeX used here. I carry a windex bottle filled with water with me. Bird crap, bug guts, no problem. Blast them with the water, and they are history.
#11
Now a CTS-V Owner
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CI 5-6-7 & 9 Veteran
St. Jude Donor '05-'06-'07-'08
Originally Posted by DevilDog II
WD40 on a microfiber towel. It also works great for removing tar, grease, etc.
#12
Hydrogen peroxide in a spray bottle. Been using it for years. $1 a bottle at the Dollar Store.
#13
Team Owner
Duragloss 471.
#15
Melting Slicks
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This is similar to what I do minus the hot water. I just soak a couple microfiber towels and lay them on the effected areas for a minute or two. I come back and hit it with some detail spray (Z6 for me but any will work) and a microfiber and they slide right off. I can just hit the are with Z6 and a towel but sometimes there is a little bit left so I rather soak them a little and it all comes right off.
#16
Melting Slicks
I've tried several methods over the years. Some work better than others.
This forum being a wealth of great ideas and advice, I figured I'd check and see if anyone has any tried and true methods to removal of bug splatter with minimal chance of putting scratches in the clear.
Let's hear 'em. Thanks.
This forum being a wealth of great ideas and advice, I figured I'd check and see if anyone has any tried and true methods to removal of bug splatter with minimal chance of putting scratches in the clear.
Let's hear 'em. Thanks.
#18
Former Vendor
Fabric Softener sheets would not be my choice, they feel abrasive and not sure what that "could" do to paint.
Poorboys has released a "Bug Towel" made of MF just for the task. Perhaps a better choice for rubbing .. and best part it still can be used with Bug Squash as wanted.
http://www.autogeek.net/poorboys-mes...icrofiber.html
Poorboys has released a "Bug Towel" made of MF just for the task. Perhaps a better choice for rubbing .. and best part it still can be used with Bug Squash as wanted.
http://www.autogeek.net/poorboys-mes...icrofiber.html
#19
Former Vendor
As you know the key is getting them off asap.
I always spray them down with Waterless Wash and let them soak a bit before I do my two bucket wash, and when washing I always do the front bumper cover last so I am not rubbing the bug guts into the rest of my paint.
http://adamspolishes.com/shop/exteri...-car-wash.html
I always spray them down with Waterless Wash and let them soak a bit before I do my two bucket wash, and when washing I always do the front bumper cover last so I am not rubbing the bug guts into the rest of my paint.
http://adamspolishes.com/shop/exteri...-car-wash.html
#20
Le Mans Master
I had a friend that had a lot of bugs on his C6 so he used the scrub soap pad for dishes - was excited how easy the bugs came off - when he dried the car the front was all scratched up - he then had to put a front bra on the car full time to hide the scratches. LOL we never let him live that down.